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DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL 
| AND INTO MEXICO 











SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN, IN 1845 


From a daguerreotype. 


DOWN THE SANTA FE 
TRAIL 
AND INTO MEXICO 


The Lary of 
Susan Shelby Magoffin 
1846-1847 


EDITED BY 
STELLA M. DRUMM 


Librarian, Missouri Historical Society 











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YALE UNIVERSITY PRESS 


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MDCCCCXXVI 








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JANE TAYLOR 


The Gentle Daughter of 
Susan Shelby Magoffin 





CONTENTS 


List of Illustrations 
Introduction 

The Journal 
Appendix 
Bibliography 


Index 


PAGE 





ILLUSTRATIONS 


Susan Shelby Magoffin. From a daguerreotype. 


Frontispiece. 


Independence, Missouri. Courthouse Square. 


1 


Samuel Magoffin. From a medallion painted on ivory. 4 


Buffalo Hunt on Southwestern Prairies. 
Bent’s Fort. 

Ruins of Pécos. 

Arrival of the Caravan at Santa Fé. 


Map Showing Route of Expedition. 


4A, 
58 
98 
102 
120 


INTRODUCTION 


HILE accompanying her husband on a 
| trading expedition into the Southwest and 
Mexico, Susan Shelby Magoffin found 
amusement and companionship in her journal. Their 
somewhat primitive mode of travel, over the plains, 
into the mountains, and across the rivers, was hardly 
conducive to great literary effort or style in composi- 
tion. Nevertheless, there is a peculiar charm in the 
narrative, and it takes on a dramatic cast as one comes 
to realize the drift of it all. In her simple and gentle 
way, the young lady deftly raises the curtain from 
before characters and events of very great importance 
in American history. Her journal has a distinct value 
in respect to the amount of detail contained in the 
descriptions of scenes and events, so often lacking in 
other journals of the same period. Most of them give 
mere outlines. 

The journey undertaken by this Kentucky bride of 
eighteen with her husband, Samuel Magoffin, was, 
nominally at least, a trading expedition of James and 
Samuel Magoffin, brothers and partners. In a trade 
started by James before 1828, the brothers yearly, and 
sometimes twice a year, took large caravans of goods 
into Santa Fé and old Mexico. This expedition, how- 
ever, was different from the others. James was not 
with a wagon train as usual, but had gone on well in 
advance of both caravans, leaving the one he ordinarily 

would have commanded in charge of his brother Wil- 


Xi 


INTRODUCTION 


liam. Samuel with his train preceded William, and 
reached Santa Fé about twelve days ahead. 

The Mexican War had begun. James was really on 
a secret mission for the Government of the United 
States, it being hoped that he would be able to pave 
the way for General Kearny to enter Santa Fé and 
gain possession of New Mexico without bloodshed. 
The letter of the Secretary of War, Mr. Marcy, given 
in the Appendix (p. 263), shows what was expected of 
Magoffin. The comments of Susan in her diary, under 
date of August 18, on the work James was engaged in 
at Santa Fé, and later, December 1, 1846, about his 
capture by the Mexicans, indicate that she, as well as 
her husband, was cognizant of the serious nature of the 
whole expedition. 

The choice of James Wiley Magoffin for this un- 
usual service was due in a large measure to Senator 
Thomas H. Benton of Missouri. The latter had be- 
come acquainted with Mr. Magoffin at Washington in 
the year 1845. He had learned that Magoffin “was a 
man of mind, of generous temper, patriotic and rich; 
that he spoke the Spanish language fluently, knew 
every man in New Mexico, his character and all the 
localities.” It was thought that he could be of immense 
value to the United States on such a mission, and 
President Polk requested him to undertake it. 

Bloodless conquest of New Mexico was what Presi- 
dent Polk fondly wished. James Magoffin accom- 
plished everything that was desired of him. In his own 
clever way he diverted the people from their Mexican 
governor, General Manuel Armijo, imbued the latter 
with an indisposition to fight, and then secured the 


X11 


INTRODUCTION 


alliance of the lieutenant governor, Colonel Diego 
Archuleta, the second in command. As a result, Gen- 
eral Kearny was able to enter Santa Fé with his army 
of about seventeen hundred men and take possession 
of all of New Mexico without the firing of a shot, or 
the spilling of a drop of blood. All this in spite of the 
fact that General Armijo had three thousand troops 
with which to guard the narrow defiles through which 
the American troops had to go in order to enter Santa 
aes 

Armijo seemed to have suddenly discovered that 
his troops were indisposed to support him in resisting 
the Americans, and after receiving the reports of his 
officers that they were not prepared to resist, he took 
about one hundred dragoons along with him and fled 
into the state of Chihuahua. There he was imprisoned, 
some months later, for not resisting the Americans. 
Archuleta could have persuaded Armijo to make a 
defense, but he did not. The former had one thousand 
of the best troops in New Mexico attached to him, and 
he himself would have defended the pass, had it not 
been for the subtlety of Magoffin. The influence 
exerted upon him was quite as effective as that prac- 
ticed upon Armijo. His personal ambitions were 
played upon, not without sincerity. Indeed, at Ma- 
goffin’s request General Kearny decided to appoint 
Archuleta to office, but for some reason these plans 
never were carried out. As a result of this mistake, 
Archuleta afterwards organized a revolt at Taos, 
which was put down only after much bloodshed, by 
General Price and his Missourians. 

It is a notable fact that this journal, together with 


Xl 


INTRODUCTION 


certain documents unearthed in the War Depart- 
ment and published by William E. Connelley of Kan- 
sas, has dispelled the doubt created by some historians 
as to the credit due to Mr. Magoffin for the “Bloodless 
Conquest” of New Mexico. One historian has ex- 
pressed the belief that Benton’s account of this inci- 
dent in his Thirty Years’ View was absurd and the re- 
sult of yarns told by Magoffin, “who was full of fun, 
an Irishman by descent, and a Kentuckian by birth.” 
(Rives, United States and Mezico, vol. 2, p. 215.) 
This trinity of faults, as it would seem, cannot be im- 
puted altogether to General Kearny, Captain Philip 
St. George Cooke, and Governor Henry Connelly of 
New Mexico. These records, since revealed, show that 
they knew the facts and gave full credit to Magoffin.” 
In fact, the letter of Kearny certifying to the service 
rendered by him, captured from a messenger who was 
bearing the same to Chihuahua, almost resulted in the 
execution of Magoffin. Connelly was the messenger; 
Cooke was Magoffin’s escort into Santa Fé on his 
original mission; and Kearny sent Magoffin to Chi- 
huahua to do like service in behalf of General Wool. 
The people of New Mexico were not friendly to 
their governor, General Armijo. In fact, they feared 
him more than they did the Americans. When Ma- 
goffin told them that General Kearny had set out to 
take the country east of the Del Norte as part of 
Texas; that they were really Americans now, and, as 
such, would be protected by the American Govern- 
ment from the Indians; that their religion would not 
be disturbed; they believed him, and developed a feel- 
1 See Cooke’s letter to Magoffin, Appendix, p. 264. 


XIV 


INTRODUCTION 


ing of friendliness to the approaching American 
troops. | 

James Magoffin was not the first agent sent by the 
Government of the United States to aid in the cap- 
ture of New Mexico. On May 14, 1846, the Secretary 
of War sent George T. Howard with a letter to Gen- 
eral Kearny. The latter, complying with the instruc- 
tions therein contained, sent an escort to accompany 
Howard as far as Bent’s Fort. Howard went to the 
neighborhood of Taos and Santa Fé to create an im- 
pression favorable to the United States. Hughes, in 
his Doniphan’s Expedition, says of Howard’s ex- 
perience: “He failed, however, to accomplish fully the 
purpose of his mission. . . . His report produced quite 
a sensation in our camp. It was now expected that 
Colonel Kearny’s entrance into Santa Fé would be 
obstinately disputed” (pp. 50-51). 

As indicated above, after the negotiations at Santa 
Fe James Magoffin went forward, under the direc- 
tions of General Kearny, to render the same service 
at Chihuahua for General Wool. Unfortunately, Gen- 
eral Wool did not go to Chihuahua, and the Mexicans, 
finally becoming suspicious of Magoffin, cast him into 
prison as a spy. I'wo Mexicans of prominence in the 
city of Chihuahua were in New Mexico at the time of 
the approach of the American troops. They knew that 
the positive intention of General Armijo, and par- 
ticularly of Archuleta, was to defend that place. These 
men retired to Chihuahua and reported to the gov- 
ernor there that James Magoffin had been the cause of 
the nonresistance at Santa Fé, and that he had 


XV 


INTRODUCTION 


bought over General Armijo and Colonel Archuleta. 
This, with other information, caused his arrest. 

Magoffin was saved from execution only through his 
popularity with Mexican officers, which was in no de- 
gree lessened by his liberality with money and enter- 
tainments with champagne. Quoting Captain Cooke: 
“His life was really long in danger, but I am happy 
to record that he dissolved all charges, prosecutions 
and enmities in three thousand three hundred and 
ninety-two bottles of Champagne wine, (by close com- 
putation).’’ One of these officers, a judge advocate, 
told Mr. Magoffin of the capture of an American (Dr. 
Connelly) with a letter addressed to him. The officer 
presented the letter to Magoffin, unopened, and ad- 
vised him to destroy it. The letter, as stated before, 
was from General Kearny, setting forth the charac- 
ter and worth of Magoffin’s service to him at Santa 
Fé. After reading it, and exchanging looks with the 
Mexican officer, Magoffin tossed the letter into the 
fire. He was kept in jail, however, for a period of nine 
months—until the end of the war. First confined at 
Chihuahua, he was sent to Durango on the approach 
of Colonel Doniphan’s command. He had lost three 
years of his time as well as much goods and money, 
and had endured great hardships in the pursuit of the 
undertaking. 

The ways of politics and politicians are not always 
intelligible to the wayfaring man. The United States 
Senate appropriated fifty thousand dollars to be paid 
to Magoffin for his expenses and losses incident to the 
secret mission, Unfortunately there was no fund on 
hand to meet this appropriation, and the incoming ad- 


Xvl 


INTRODUCTION 


ministration, being of opposite politics, was disposed 
to quibble about the matter. President Taylor, on 
hearing what Magoffin had done for Kearny, ex- 
pressed the wish that he had had some one to do the 
same for him, and gave orders to the Secretary of War 
to treat the matter as if there had been no change in 
the administration. That gentleman, however, was dis- 
posed to take nothing for granted, and although the 
mission was secret and documentary proof necessarily 
lacking, he was technical to a degree. He urged that 
there was no “contract” with Magoffin. The latter 
treated that suggestion with scorn, and in giving an 
attempted itemization of his expenses and _ losses, 
stated: “The above [statement] is submitted, not 
as an account against the United States, but as data 
to assist in forming an opinion of the amount that 
ought to be paid me for my services, by showing what 
they cost me; as for the services themselves, they can- 
not be valued in money.” One item in his account, with 
no amount given, was expressed as follows: “Nine 
months’ imprisonment at Chihuahua and Durango, 
(can’t be estimated) .” 

Although the Senate had appropriated the larger 
sum, Mr. Crawford, the succeeding Secretary of War, 
proposed to Magoffin that he accept thirty thousand 
dollars. Magoffin, having undertaken the matter un- 
der patriotic impulse, made no complaint, preferring 
to be underpaid rather than to have the character of 
his work lowered by a quarrel over finances. 

The incidents immediately preceding the journey to 
Santa Fé by James Magoffin for the execution of the 
mission from the United States Government are in- 


XVli 


INTRODUCTION 


teresting. On May 25, 1846, James W. Magoffin and 
party with a number of wagons returned to Inde- 
pendence, Missouri, from Chihuahua. He and three 
others took the steamer Nimrod and traveled on the 
Missouri River to St. Louis, arriving May 30, 1846. 
They carried with them forty thousand dollars in 
specie. At Independence Mr. Magoffin had received 
a message from Senator Benton asking him to come 
to Washington for an interview with the President. 
On the seventeenth day of June following, he was in 
Washington and had an extended interview with 
President Polk and Secretary of War Marcy. As a 
result of their deliberations Magoffin received letters 
addressed to General Kearny, and “also to the officer 
who might be in command of an expedition to Chi- 
huahua,” requesting them to avail themselves of his 
services. On the following July 31, he presented his 
letters to General Kearny at a camp near Bent’s Fort, 
and three days later proceeded to Santa Fé with an 
escort of twelve men in command of Captain Philip 
St. George Cooke. 

The Magoffins were of a large and prominent fam- 
ily of Kentucky. Their father was Beriah Magoffin 
of County Down, Ireland, who married their mother, 
Jane McAfee, daughter of Samuel McAfee, in Mer- 
cer County, Kentucky. Beriah Magoffin came to 
America prior to 1799, settling first in Mercer 
County, Pennsylvania, and later removed to Har- 
rodsburg, Kentucky. James Wiley Magoffin, as well 
as Samuel, was born in Harrodsburg, Kentucky, the 
former in 1799, and the latter March 31, 1801. One 
of their brothers, Beriah, became the governor of 


XVill 


INTRODUCTION 


Kentucky. There were other brothers, Ebenezer, John 
(afterwards a prominent physician of St. Louis), 
William, and Joseph. Their sisters were Jane, Han- 
nah, and Sarah. 

In 1880 James married Mary Gertrude Valdez 
of Chihuahua, Mexico, where he was engaged in 
merchandising. She was an accomplished lady, kind- 
hearted, affable, and exceedingly well informed. Ken- 
dall speaks of her kindness to him and fellow pris- 
oners in Mexico after the Texan Santa Fé Expedition 
of 1841. James Magoffin was the first United States 
consul in Chihuahua and Durango, and was famil- 
iarly known there, and in New Mexico, as “Don San- 
tiago,” and “The Don.” In 1844 James and his family 
moved to Independence, Missouri, purchasing a farm 
near by. His wife died the following January, leaving 
two sons, Joseph and Samuel, and four daughters. 
Mr. Magoffin left Missouri after the Mexican War 
and settled in Texas, opposite the Mexican town of 
FE] Paso del Norte. At that time (1848) there was no 
settlement on the American side, and the rich bottoms 
were but partially cultivated. In 1850 there were three 
settlements in that locality, of which the principal one 
was Magoffinsville, now a part of the city of Kl Paso, 
Texas. Magoffinsville consisted of a large square 
around which were unusually substantial adobe 
buildings, including about eight large stores and 
warehouses well filled with merchandise. The town be- 
longed wholly to James Magoffin, and it was prophe- 
sied at that time that his energy and public spirit 
would undoubtedly make it the principal place on the 
frontier. United States Attorney Davis speaks in his 


XIX 


INTRODUCTION 


book, Hl Gringo, of being a guest of Mr. Magoffin at . 
Magoffinsville, which he names as the site of Fort Bliss 
and places it directly opposite the Mexican town of 
HK] Paso. He says he found Mr. Magoffin living quite 
in nabob style in a large Spanish-built house that re- 
minded him somewhat of an old mansion of the feudal 
ages. 

During the war between the states, Colonel Ma- 
goftin, as he was then called, furnished supplies to the 
Confederates at Fort Bliss, and subsequently died at 
San Antonio, Texas, September 28, 1868. His sons, 
Joseph and Samuel, served in the Confederate Army, 
the latter giving his life to that cause. Joseph survived 
and returned to El Paso. 

Samuel Magoffin, spoken of im the journal as “Don 
Manuel,” and often more tenderly as “mi alma,” re- 
ceived most of his education from private tutors. Be- 
ing a child of a frontier state, he had only such fa- 
cilities as were afforded to men who cultivated their 
fields with a loaded rifle slung over their shoulders, al- 
ways in danger of attack from a savage foe. From 
such environment sprang men with iron in their blood, 
and courage that knew no such thing as fear. Samuel, 
in 1830, joined his brother James in the overland 
trade to Mexico, when merchandise was conveyed over 
the Santa Fé Trail in ox teams, and either specie or 
the products of that land, including furs, jacks, mules, 
etc., were brought back to the States. This trade was 
of great importance and filled with hazard; chivalry 
and romance in the natures of those who participated 
were very necessary qualities. The volume of business 
in that trade in 1846 amounted to nearly one million 


xx 


INTRODUCTION 


dollars. ‘The canvas-covered wagons of these mer- 
chant trains, glistening like banks of snow in the dis- 
tance, and winding their tortuous way over the undu- 
lating surface of the prairies, were often the object of 
attack by Indian tribes and Mexican robbers. Few 
trips were made without a tragedy to some member 
of the expedition. 

Samuel continued in this business until the expedi- 
tion mentioned in the journal, which terminated the 
partnership enterprise. In the latter part of 1847 he 
returned to Kentucky, where he purchased a large 
estate near Lexington. In the spring of 1852 he moved 
his family to St. Louis County, Missouri, where he 
built a fine home at Barrett’s Station, not far from the 
present town of Kirkwood. Here he engaged in cul- 
tivating the land and dealing generally in real estate. 
Active business was not necessary then, because of his 
ample property, and he passed his declining years in 
the quiet life of a country gentleman. He died at his 
home April 23, 1888. 

Susan Shelby Magoffin was born July 80, 1827, at 
“Arcadia,” as her father’s place was called. It was lo- 
cated about six miles south of Danville, Kentucky, 
and adjoined “Traveler’s Rest,’ the home of her 
grandfather, Governor Isaac Shelby. She was edu- 
cated by private tutors at her home, and was married 
to Samuel Magoffin, November 25, 1845, at the place 
of her birth. One of her sisters, Anna N., also married 
a Magoffin. Her husband was Beriah, afterwards gov- 
ernor of Kentucky, and brother of Samuel and James. 

Samuel took his bride to Philadelphia and New 
York for their honeymoon, spending the winter in the 


XX1 


INTRODUCTION 


East. In the spring they turned westward to Inde- 
pendence, Missouri, where they awaited the goods 
which he had purchased in the East for the expedition 
to Santa Fé. With her honeymoon she began the first 
part of her journal, dividing her story into two parts; 
the first having to do with her experiences in the Kast, 
and the second part covering the expedition from In- 
dependence, and ending in Mexico, which is here pub- 
lished. The journal of the western trip is complete, ex- 
cepting a few pages near the end, which have been 
lost. 

A gentlewoman, such as the writer of this journal, 

wife of a wealthy man, might well be expected to 
shrink from such a journey. In considering her atti- 
tude in that respect, one may well pause to reflect upon 
the character of the people of that day. She was the 
daughter of Isaac Shelby and Marie Boswell Warren 
(daughter of Captain John Warren and Judith Swan 
Boswell) of Danville, Kentucky; and the grand- 
daughter of Isaac Shelby, the first governor of Ken- 
tucky. Her grandmother, Susannah Hart Shelby, was 
the daughter of the noted pioneer and soldier, Colonel 
Nathaniel Hart. It was said that this lady “raised the 
flax which she wove and spun into her wedding gown, 
with an art so clever that she could draw the widths 
through her wedding ring.” Governor Shelby was a 
soldier in the Colonial army, the Revolutionary War, 
and also in the War of 1812, being an officer in each. 
He was born near Hagerstown, Maryland, December 
11, 1750. 

Mrs. Samuel Magoffin gave birth to a son at Mata- 
moras while she was suffering from yellow fever, and 


Xx 


INTRODUCTION 


the child died soon after birth. At Lexington, Ken- 
tucky, she gave birth to another son, who was called 
James, and who died in childhood. In 1851, a daugh- 
ter, Jane (quite generally known as Janie), was born. 
She married George Taylor of Ohio. Mrs. Taylor 
was but four years old when her mother died, and has 
preserved this journal as a fond remembrance. An- 
other daughter, Susan, now Mrs. André Jalicon, of 
Genoa, Italy, was born in St. Louis County, in the 
year 1855. 

Mrs. Magoffin died October 26, 1855, at the family 
residence at Barrett’s Station, Missouri. Her funeral 
took place in St. Louis at the Pine Street Presby- 
terian Church, to which denomination the Magoffins 
belonged. She was buried in Bellefontaine Cemetery, 
St. Louis. : : 

It is an interesting fact that the adventure of Susan 
* Shelby Magoffin has attracted the attention of writers 
who never saw her journal. One of them says: “Mr. 
Magoffin bore with him a young, rich and lovely bride, 
of the noblest blood of Kentucky, to this mart of his 
commerce. She had it not in her nature to know fear. 
Through all the alarms of the camp, toils of the march, 
and the privations of the army, this lady was found 
cheerful. She was the charm of the social circle of the 
encampment in hours of ease, and in times of danger, 
brave as the bravest. Nor was her courage untried, 
for it happened that the carriage, getting off the line 
of march of the army, with only a small escort which 
had lagged behind, was suddenly ridden up to by a 
squad of guerrillas. Their further proceedings were 
instantly and timely stopped by the sight of a pair 


XX 


INTRODUCTION 


of pistols presented at them by a lovely woman. Such 
was the intrepidity of a lady in the Chihuahua column 
of the ‘Army of the West.’ ” (Cutts, Conquest of Cali- 
fornia and New Mewico, p. 86.) 

Wislizenus, in his Tour of Northern Mewico (p. 
70), mentions an incident which occurred at another 
time when there was a gap in the journal, May 11, 
1847: “While encamped at San Lorenzo, a rumor 
reached us that the Mexicans at San Sebastian had 
cut off the American traders in the rear of the army. A 
party at once started back; the more willingly as an 
interesting and respectable lady, sharing all the hard- 
ships and dangers of such an expedition with her hus- 
band, was concerned in it.” 

Mrs. Magoffin kept her journal in a book eight and 
a half inches wide, ten inches long, and one and a half 
inches thick. The pages are lined and the binding is 
three-quarters calf. The first forty-nine pages, num- 
bered consecutively, were devoted to poetry, mostly of 
love. Some were copied by her from well-known au- 
thors, whose names are given in each case. Some are 
marked “original,” and one is inscribed: “April 7, 
1839. To Anna, by Beriah Magoffin.” On page 10, a 
subject head reads, “A delineation of a lady’s heart by 
a Gentleman.” Under this is a sketch of a heart divided 
by cross lines into little compartments greatly varying 
in size, labeled “frivolity, affection, scandal, jeal- 
ousy,” etc. Below this is a subject head reading, “A 
Reply to the above by a Lady.” Then follows the re- 
ply in verse. 

The numbering of the pages starts anew with the 
beginning of the diary, being marked from 1 to 206. 


XXIV 


INTRODUCTION 


The handwriting is round, well formed, and legible, 
written in ink, with scarcely a blot in the whole volume. 
The pages are likewise clean, bright, and free from 
stain. 

As the adventure of Columbus upon the uncharted 
seas gave to the world a new continent, so the expedi- 
tions into the pathless and unknown West were the 
forerunners of the conquest of a vast domain, and the 
spread of peace and plenty. Who can estimate the 
amount of wealth added to the resources of the United 
States by the acquisition of the state of Texas, and 
the territory acquired as a result of the Mexican War? 
The riches there found surpassed the imagination of 
the wildest dreamer. Let one follow the caravans and 
reflect upon the type of men who conducted the trade 
along the Santa Fé Trail-and into Mexico, and he will 
readily understand the rapidity with which the Ameri- 
can frontier was carried to the Pacific Ocean. 

Grateful acknowledgment is here made to Hon. 
Samuel M. Wilson of Lexington, Kentucky, for in- 
formation regarding the Shelby family, and also to 
_the El] Paso Public Library and Hon. Benjamin F. 
Read of Santa Fé, New Mexico, for information used 
in several of the notes. To Mr. Chilton Atkinson of 
St. Louis I am especially indebted in very many re- 
spects for his kind assistance. 


STELLA M. DRUMM. 
St. Louis, Missouri. 


xXXV 








"Ayowoy pvar1ogsiT wnossyy Asaqunog 


AUVOAOS ASQOHLYNOD “INNOSSIN “AONHANAdACNI 


gaea xowaeendes. 





TRAVELS IN MEXICO 


COMMENCING JUNE, 1846. 
EL DIARIO DE DONA SUSANITA MAGOFFIN. 





Y journal tells a story tonight different from 
what it has ever done before. 
The curtain raises now with a new scene. 
This book of travels is Act 2nd, litterally and truly. 
From the city of New York to the Plains of Mexico, 
is a stride that I myself can scarcely realize. But now 
for a bit of my wonderful travels so far. 

This is the third day since we left Brother James’s 
[James Wiley Magoffin]. Tuesday evening we went 
into Independence;’ there we stayed one night only 
at Mr. Noland’s Hotel.” On Wednesday morning I 
did considerable business; some shopping—little arti- 
cles I had thought of only within a few days. I called 
to see Mrs. Owens,* and on my return from there re- 


1 Independence, the seat of Jackson County, Missouri, five 
miles east of Kansas City, was laid out in 1827, and by 1831 had 
become the western rendezvous for both Santa Fé and Oregon 
traffic. During the season of departure of the trains it was a place 
of much bustle and activity. 

2 Smallwood Noland, familiarly called ‘Uncle, Wood.” His 
hotel was the largest and most commodious in Missouri, except- 
ing those in St. Louis; it having accommodations for as many as 
four hundred guests. Mr. Noland was known from the Atlantic 
to the Pacific, having been a hotel keeper at this place for many 
years. | 

* Wife of Samuel C. Owens, the trader. She was Fanny Young, 
a sister of Eliza Ann, wife of Governor Thomas Reynolds of 
- Missouri. After the death of her husband in the battle of Sacra- 


1 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL ‘cue 


ceived two or three visits—next I arranged my trunk 
“plunder-basket” &c. And after dinner between the 
hours of 8 and 4 we left the little village of I— [In- 
dependence | for the residence of Mr. Barns, a gentle- 
man some ten miles this side of that place. Here we 
procured a night’s lodging preparatory to a final 
departure. They were very kind to us. Mrs. Barns 
claims a relationship with me through the Harts; be 
it so or not I can’t tell. 

On Thursday morning we left Mr. B’s at an early 
hour. They had us up by day-light, gave us breakfast 
almost as soon, and by 7 o’clock we were on the road. 

Thursday 11th. Now the Prairie life begins! We 
soon left “the settlements” this morning. Our mules 
travel well and we joged on at a rapid pace till 10 
o'clock, when we came up with the waggons. They 
were encamped just at the edge of the last woods. As 
we proceeded from this thick wood of oaks and scrubby 
underbrush, my eyes were unable to satiate their long- 
ing for a sight of the wide spreading plains. The hot 
sun, or rather the wind which blew pretty roughly, 
compelled me to seek shelter with my friends, the car- 
riage & a thick veil. 

All our waggons were here, and those of two or 
three others of the traders. The animals made an ex- 
tensive show indeed. Mules and oxen scattered in all 
directions. The teamsters were just “catching up,” 
and the cracking of whips, lowing of cattle, braying 
of mules, whooping and hallowing of the men was a 
novel sight rather. It is disagreeable to hear so much 
mento, she went to live in Platte County, Missouri. She did not 
long survive Colonel Owens, dying May 31, 1848. 

2 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


swearing; the animals are unruly tis true and worries 
the patience of their drivers, but I scarcely think they 
need be so profane. And the mules I believe are 
worse, for they kick and run so much faster. It is a 
common circumstance for a mule (when first brought 
into service) while they are hitching him in, to break 
away with chains and harness all on, and run for half 
hour or more with two or three horsemen at his heels 
endeavouring to stop him, or at least to keep him from 
running among the other stock. I saw a scamper while 
I sat in the carriage today. One of the mules belong- 
ing to Col. Owens scampered off, turning the heads 
of the whole collection nearly by the rattling of the 
chains. After a fine race one of his pursuers succeeded 
in catching the bridle, when the stubborn animal re- 
fused to lead and in defiance of all the man could do, 
he walked backwards all the way to camp leading his 
capturer instead of being led. Just as we were about 
leaving one of the Spanish traders came up and 
claimed a man (a Mexican) who had gone into the 
service of Don Manuel [ Samuel Magoffin]. The man 
owed him some five dollars and he was determined to 
take it out of him by work. The poor fellow refused 
to go, pleading his last engagement, he had been fa- 
voured with the advancement of $20.00 of his wages 
and could not go in consequence. He came to Don 
Manuel for a settlement; in a few minutes a dozen 
Mexicans were assembled around him, all jabbering 
about the matter. I seldom ever heard as much fuss; 
finally they concluded to bring the matter to Don 
Gabriel Valdez, his tent was some three miles off, but 
notwithstanding we must go there. So we left the wag- 
3 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL JUNE 


gons and rode over, sending an express ahead to tell 
the gentleman we would dine with him. At 12 o’clock 
we arrived there, and found him in waiting to receive 
us. In a little while the matter was fixed. 

Mi alma [my soul] treated him, the Mexican, to a 
little grog, ordered him a dinner and offered to pay 
him the sum he required of the man. After a stay of 
some two or three hours here, we again resumed our 
march, and soon caught up with the waggons. We 
now numbered, of ourselves only, quite a force. Four- 
teen big waggons with six yoke each, one baggage 
waggon with two yoke, one dearborn with two mules, 
(this concern carries my maid) our own carriage with 
two more mules and two men on mules driving the 
loose stock, consisting of nine and a half yoke of oxen, 
our riding horses two, and three mules, with Mr. 
Hall the superintendent of the waggons, together 
with his mule, we number twenty men, three are our 
tent servants (Mexicans). Jane, my attendant, two 
horses, nine mules, some two hundred oxen, and last 
though not least our dog Ring. A gray hound he is 
of noble descent; he is white with light brown spots, 
a nice watch for our tent door. 

All the evening we drove on well. At half an hour 
by sun we came up with the waggons of Mr. Mc- 
Mannus* and a Spaniard Armigo.’ They were just — 

*Frank McManus was for many years a merchant in the 
Mexican trade. He was at Chihuahua with his fellow merchants, 
Connelly and Aull, when news came of the approach of the 
American troops and merchant trains, including that of McManus. 


About ten days before the battle of Sacramento, fought about 
fifteen miles north of Chihuahua, Governor Trias made an order 


4 





SAMUEL MAGOFFIN, IN 1845 


From a medallion painted on wory. 





1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


preparing to camp at “The Lone Elm,” 35 miles 
from I— [Independence]. This is the first camping 
place from Fitzu’s, which is at the border of Mo. and 
the place at which our wagons stayed the night be- 
fore. 

There is no other tree or bush or shrub save one 
Elm tree, which stands on a small elevation near the 
little creek or branch. The travellers allways stop 
where there is water sufficient for all their animals. 
The grass is fine every place, it is so tall in some places 
as to conceal a man’s waist. 


sending all Americans seventy miles south of the town. About 
ten of them succeeded in evading this order by keeping them- 
selves pretty much concealed. At the suggestion of the English 
Consul, Mr. Potts, they took refuge at the Mint while the battle 
was in progress. They took with them arms and a large quantity 
of ammunition to the roof of that building for protection in case 
of attack by the mob, which they felt sure would follow Ameri- 
can defeat. 

Here the small party waited in terrible suspense, knowing the 
great disparity in numbers between the American and Mexican 
forces. At length the news of Mexican defeat was wafted to 
them. The next day the American flag floated from the flagstaff 
on the Plaza and Frank McManus and his friend, Doctor 
Connelly, reopened their respective stores and proceeded to sell 
their goods. 

°> Besides General Armijo, there were three others of that 
name in the Santa Fé trade, namely: J. C., Rafael, and A. J. 
Armijo. They passed through St. Louis on their way to New 
York in December, 1845, to purchase their winter outfit. They 
carried with them over fifty thousand dollars in specie. In 
March, 1846, J. C. and A. Armijo again arrived in St. Louis on 
their way East to purchase the goods carried on the expedition 
described by Mrs. Magoffin. 


5 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL UNE 


We crossed the branch and stretched our tent. It 
is a grand affair indeed. "T'was made in Philadelphia 
by a regular tent-maker of the army, and every thing 
is complete. It is conical shape, with an iron pole and 
wooden ball; we have a table in it that is fastened to 
the pole, and a little stand above it that serves for a 
dressing bureau—it holds our glass, combs &c. Our 
bed is as good as many houses have; sheets, blankets, 
counterpanes, pillows &c. We have a carpet made of 
sail duck, have portable stools they are called; they 
are two legs crossed with a pin through the center on 
which they turn as a pivot; the seat part is made of 
carpeting. To be brief the whole is a complete affair. 

Well after a supper at my own table and in my own 
house,—and I can say what few women in civilized 
life ever could, that the first house of his own to which 
my husband took me to after our marriage was a 
tent; and the first table of my own at which I ever 
sat was a cedar one, made with only one leg and that 
was a tent pole. But as I said after the first supper 
at my own table consisting of fried ham and eggs, 
biscuit and a cup of shrub, for I preferred it to tea or 
café—I enjoyed a fine night’s rest; it was sweet in- 
deed. 

Friday 12th. This morning we were up soon of 
course. It is fine weather, cool and bracing. I have a 
cold though, and cannot enjoy it as much as I hope to 
do. I took it in Independence, though I calculate on 
the Prairies curing me. We had an early breakfast, 
and an early start—that is by 7 o'clock. Nothing of 
importance occurred till noon when we stopped for 

6 


146) DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


dinner at “Big Bull Creek.” The travellers call this 
“nooning it.’”’ Here we had no wood; there are no 
trees, and we provided none in the morning so we 
were obliged to take a dinner of crackers with a lit- 
tle ham fried at the small fire of the wagoners. It 
went quite well though with a tin cup of shrub. At 
night we struck camp at “Black Jack,” fourteen 
miles from the last, and 49 from Ind [ependence]. 
The sun was an hour high when we stoped and as the 
wagons had not come up we could not strike camp. 
Being tired of the carriage I got out and took a 
ramble. I picked numberless flowers with which the 
plains are covered, and as mé alma told me before we 
started, I threw them away to gather more. I wear- 
ried myself out at this, and as the tent was now up, I 
returned “home.” 'There before supper I had a little 
piece of work to attend to, I mean the feeding of my 
chickens. It is quite a farm house this; poultry, dogs, 
cattle, mules, horses &c. Altogether my home is one 
not to be objected to. 

The two companies, McMannus and the Mexicans, 
are on the other side of the creek to us. 

Saturday 13th, This morning we have a dense fog. 
The other companies are up and off before us. 

Noon on the wide Prairie. Well we are going to 
“noon it” now. We are up on the Prairie with not a 
tree near us; some are in sight, but none near enough 
for shelter. The sun is very warm; the oxen are un- 
yoked and are straying off to the water and for grass. 
This is a good time to write, here in the carriage. I 

a! 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL cdonm 


have all the materials, and will take advantage of the 
time. 

This A. M. about 10 o’clock we met an Indian 
trader returning from “Bent’s Fort’ up the big Ar- 
kansas river. He is returning with his cargo of skins; 
we stoped and had half hour’s conversation with him, 
respecting the road, war news &c. It is all pretty 
good. Says the Indians are pretty bad about Pawnee 
Fork, which is 298 miles from Ind [ependence]. His 
wagons we met about half a mile back; they are 
loaded with skins. A negro woman, who is coming up 
from the fort with them, has been up here to see us. 

It is now about 6 o’clock P. M. we are still in the 
same track. The wagons have started on and most of 
them are out of sight. The hindermost one has stuck 
in a mud hole and they are doubling and tripling 
teams to pull it out, and I believe have finally suc- 
ceeded and now we will proceed. 

Camp No. 3. We have made but a poor travel to 
day; not more than eight miles. We were late starting 
in the morning, and stoped at noon quite a long while. 

Got off from camp this P. M. by 4 o’clock, but the 
mud hole detained us two full hours; so to make up in 
some measure we did not stop till after 8 o'clock to- 
night. We had to turn out the cattle, stake tent, and 
make a fire before we could do anything towards 
supper. It was after 10 o’clock some time before we 
got it; it made us enjoy it more though. 

Camp No. 4. We are out on the Prairie now, with 
a plenty of water. 'The oxen were half gone this morn- 
ing when we got up. The men found most of them 

8 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


though some distance from camp; for the missing 
ones four yoke we sent two Mexicans. Those 
wagoners to whom they belonged had to yoke up new 
ones, which detained us till 9 o’clock. We went on till 
1 o'clock when we stoped to noon it, but without 
water. We left again at four, and continued till pre- 
cisely sundown this P. M. 

This is my first sabbath on the plains! 

A very quiet one it has been too, something I had 
not looked for. But all the men seem to recollect it 
and hitch in their teams with half the trouble, and I 
have scarcely heard an oath the whole day. Every 
thing has been perfectly still and quiet, scarcely a 
breath of air, or the fliting of a feathered warbler has 
appeared to disturb the solemn stillness. Ever and 
anon the sharp whistle of a partridge, the chirp of a 
lark, or the croaking of a raven in the distant woods, 
were heard. Save these and the unusually gentle noise 
made by the waggoners, no other sound conspired to 
mar the solemn stillness of a sabbath on the Prairies. 

The men who went after the cattle have returned 
with them; found at our last night’s camping ground 
on their way back. 

Monday 15th. Noon out on the wide Prairie. The 
Sun it seems is exerting himself; not a breath of air 
is stirring, and everything is scorching with heat. We 
have no water and the animals are panting with 
thirst; their drivers are seeking shelter under the 
wagons; while mz alma is under the carriage. 

We left camp this morning at 614 o’clock; have 

9 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL LUNE 


traveled finely all the morning till 1144 o’clock, when 
we stoped. 

While at dinner the mules and horses all but two 
got loose and wandered off a short distance, which did 
not alarm the men any; soon however they were en- 
tirely out of sight, and it was only by hard riding they 
were taken; they were in a fine trot for Ind [ epend- 
ence |. 

Last night the oxen made another start for home. 
Just as we were fixing for a fine night’s sleep, they 
came breaking by our tent from the water, where 
perhaps they had been frightened by a wolf, with as 
much noise as 20 empty wagons. The men stood on 
guard all night after this little fright. 

Camp No. 5. At the 110 mile creek, 95 miles from 
Independence. 'Tonight is my fifth en el campo [in 
camp ]. Oh, this is a life I would not exchange for a 
good deal! There is such independence, so much free 
uncontaminated air, which impregnates the mind, the 
feelings, nay every thought, with purity. I breathe 
free without that oppression and uneasiness felt in 
the gossiping circles of a settled home. 

We left the noon creek this P. M. at 5 o'clock. 
While there a company of U.S. Dragoons, who have 
been ordered out for the protection of the traders to 
Santa Fé came up.° They are some 70 in number, 
passed on before us and camped about half mile 
ahead. 


* Captain Benjamin Moore’s company of United States Dra- 
goons, which was sent to overtake Albert Speyers’ caravan, 
carrying arms and ammunition to the Mexicans. 


10 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


The drive today has been pretty well. 

The camping place tonight is near a creek, which at 
present is quite small. A thick woods is just before us 
which we must pass in the morning; some repairs 
must be done on it (the road) first, or we should have 
gone over tonight. Took a little walk this evening 
while they were fixing the tent, and picked some little 
pebbles which I shall take home as a specimen of my 
Prairie curiosities. None of the flowers, of which there 
are innumerable quantities and varieties, have gone 
to seed as yet, so I must press them in a book to take 
home. I fixed some this evening in my journal. 

We find some beautiful roses—quantities of wild 
pinks. One flower to which, for want of a better one, 
I have given the name of the “hour glass” from its 
peculiar shape. It is brown and yellow, with a fuzzy 
pale green leaf. The little flowers, the leaves of which 
turn in both ways, up and down—the middle is quite 
small and the whole is quite like an hour-glass, at least 
my fancy has made it so—but as I was going to say 
the flowers are very small and hang in a thick cluster 
only at the top of the stem. I have found wild onions, 
and a kind of wild bean. The former is very strong, 
rather gluey and grows pretty deep in the ground. 
The flower and seed resemble the cultivated root. 

Of Roses there are any quantity. Now at my tent 
door there are two bushes, one on either side, and 
inside nearly all the way from the head of my bed to 
the door are bushes with full blown roses, bursting 
and closed buds. It is the life of a wandering princess, 
mine. When I do not wish to get out myself to pick 

11 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL UNE 


flowers the Mexican servants riding on mules busy 
themselves picking them for me. 

Tuesday 16th. Bridge Cr. 103 ms. from I [nde- 
pendence |, and 8 from Camp No. 5. Noon. Left camp 
at 614 o’clock—passed through a thick woods at 110. 
The soldiers who had encamped on the other side of it, 
left a considerable time before us. One came over to 
our camp though “to inquire the way.” I think to a 
bottle of grog, though he said to the next camping 
place. After his departure we came on ahead of the 
wagons, to this place. It isa small creek with steep 
bank, and these covered thickly with trees and smaller 
undergrowth, for nearly two hours I have been wan- 
dering among them picking raspberries and goose- 
berries, of which there are an abundance. We fixed 
a line and tried to fish a little but I believe there are 
none in the stream. 

After dinner I layed down with mi alma on a 
buffalo skin with the carriage seats for pillows and 
took what few ladies have done a siesta in the sun. 

Camp No. 6. Rock Creek. Rode on ahead of the 
wagons, and selected a camping ground. The creek is 
at present quite low. In high water though it is a bold ~ 
and deep stream. Its banks are of slate rock mostly. 
A number of trees are near them, and quantities of 
small undergrowth. After a ramble of an hour among 
them, during which time I crossed and recrossed the 
creek to mt alma’s astonishment, on the stones lying 
in It, we fixed a line and hook and made the attempt to 
fish. Nothing but small minners would bite. So grow- 
ing weary of catching nothing, and being annoyed 

12 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


much by the musquitoes, I left mi alma to “fish for 
himself” and came to my little house, which I found 
more agreeable to my feelings. 

Camp No. 7. Wednesday 17th. Last night I had a 
wolfish kind of a serenade! May Pan preserve me 
from the like tonight. Just as I had fixed myself for 
sleep after faning off to some other quarters the 
musquitoes, the delightful music began. Bak! ba! 
gnow, gnow, in such quick succession, it was almost 
impossible to distinguish one from the other. It was 
a mixture of cat, dog, sheep, wolf and the dear know 
what else. It was enough to frighten off sleep and 
everything else. 

Ring, my dear, good dog! was lying under my side 
of the bed, which was next to wolves, the instant they 
came up, he had been listening, he flew out with a 
firce bark, and drove them away. I felt like caressing 
him for his kindness, but I had another business to 
attend to just then. Rided of our pest, I was destined 
to suffer from another. The winged pestilence unsatis- 
fied with having their greedy thirst only half filled, 
returned with double force and vigor, to the attack. 
Here went my hands slap, slap, first one side then the 
other, meeting ever and anon the half closed palm of 
mi alma, who slept between the intervals of the sting. 
I was but a short time engaged at this when the sere- 
naders began again. Save the mingled and confused 
noise they made, and the lone screech of an owl no 
other sound could be heard without. The stock had all 
ceased their wanderings and the teamsters their watch- 
ing. The musquitoes, impudent things, had learned 

13 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL UND 


more sense than to “buz before the bite.”’ It was soli- 
tude indeed. The howling of ravinus beasts, and the 
screech of not less ravinous birds. I layed perfectly 
still with mz alma breathing a sweet sleep by my side. 
I could not waken him, just to keep me company, 
when he was so well engaged. So I remained quiet 
occasionally knocking off a musquito and listening to 
the confused sounds without and a wishing that my 
faithful Ring would not sleep so soundly. Just then, 
as if he had heard my thoughts and was anxious to 
prove to me that I was too hasty in my decision as 
to his vigilence, he gave one spring from his hiding 
place, and in a twinkling had driven them off entirely. 
As lonely as I was, I laughed out right. Sleep had en- 
tirely deserted me, so I “kept watch” till daylight. All 
the morning I have been noding. 

We nooned it at a small creek—the name I do not 
know—While there we had a visit from an Indian of 
the Kaw tribe. They are a friendly nation. He stayed 
to dinner, eating I believe at both camps and left the 
ground when we did. His tribe are wanderers over this 
part of the Prairie, and often meet and eat with the 
traders. He was entirely in a state of nudity, except 
the breach clout which all of them wear. His horse, 
dog, and rifle were his companions. He smoked his 
pipe while we were preparing dinner, and watched 
with a scrutinizing eye. How exceedingly silent he 
was. I did not hear him speak but two words, and they 
were telling his name. 

Our camp tonight is on a hill, the opposite side of 

14 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


the creek from the wagons; the musquitoes there are 
too thick to thrive among them. 

Bluff Creek Camp No. 8. All day we have been 
traveling in the rain, not even stoping for our dinner. 
The oxen travel better in such weather, and Mr. Hall, 
the superintendent of affairs, wished to push on. As 
we were quietly joging along in front of the wagons 
a beautiful little animal of some kind attracted our 
attentions. I supposed it a dog, or a wolf at first, my 
dearest after many suppositions settled on its being 
nothing more than a stone. To settle all doubts we 
drew the spy-glass—and what was it? Nothing more 
or less than a timid though curious antelope. It did not 
run, but all curious as we were about it at first, to 
know what great objects we were coming toward it, 
it slowly advanced to meet us, but it advanced to its 
own destruction, poor creature! 

Mi alma had his rifle, loaded only with pigeon shot; 
as we came within sixty yards of it, he fired with one 
barrel, and missed, the little thing jumped to the side 
of the road, and instead of scampering off over the 
adjacent hill as I should have done had I been in his 
place, he turned to behold the now still more curious 
objects. The fire from the other barrel wounded it in 
the shoulder, and it went limping away. Mi alma 
started back for his bullets, as grape shot were too 
small, but just then one of the teamsters with his dog 
came bolting by in pursuit of it. It ran off over the 
hills, poor creature no doubt to die. Since it was left 
with life and pain attached to it, I am sorry it was 
shot at. . 

15 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL LUNE 


We stoped about 6 o’clock for each one was anxious 
to gratify his growling stomach. Mz alma and I went 
as usual to fishing in the little stream, but found 
nothing. The oxen make a perfect stamper row among 
the finied tribe, so we were obliged to retreat. 

Council Grove, 145 miles from I [ndependence]. 
Friday 19th. Camp No. 9. We are now at the great 
rendezvous of all the traders. Council Grove may be 
considered the dividing ridge between the civilized and 
barbarous, for now we may look out for hostile In- 
dians. Council Grove is so called from the circum- 
stance of the U. S. agents* who were sent out in the 
year 1825, to measure a road from Missouri to Santa 
Fé, from their having met here and held a consulta- 
tion with some Indian tribes,t who promised in a 
treaty not only to let go unmolested the traders, but 
also to lend their aid in defending them against their 
more ruthless neighbors of the mountaimous regions 
further west. 

It is a thick cluster of trees some miles in length, 
through which runs a small creek called Council 
Grove Creek. There is a quantity of fine timber con- 
sisting of oaks, hickory, walnut &c. Each company 
coming out generally stop here a day or so to repair 
their wagons, rest the stock, get timbers for the re- 
mainder of the journey; these are lashed under the 
wagons. They also mould bullets & prepare their fire 
arms for now they are coming into the region of game. 

* Messrs. [Benjamin] Reeves, [George C.] Sibley and 


[Thomas] Mathers. 
{ Osages. 


16 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


Another thing is the washing of cloth[e]s; there is a 
great borrowing of soap and slopping of water now. 
We got here about 1 o’clock, just as some two or 
three companies were leaving. The creek bank, which 
is short and steep, made some little detention in the 
crossing of the wagons, they had to double teams sev- 
eral times. It is amusing here to hear the shouting of 
the wagoners to their animals, whooping and hal- 
lowing; the cracking of whips almost deafening. 

We struck our camp on the hill. There is a large 
mound just by us, from the top of which is a splendid 
view is to be had. On one side, to the west, is a wide 
expanse of Prairie; as far as the eye can reach nothing 
but a waving sea of tall grass is to be seen. Out the 
other, for miles around are trees and hills. I went up 
onto it at sunset, and thought I had not seen, ever, a 
more imposing sight. 

In our travels today we stoped two miles the other 
side of Council Grove, at what is called Big John’s 
Spring.’ The origin of its name I have not learned, 
but in place of it I found by experience that it is the 


* Big John’s Spring. This was a remarkably fine spring, dis- 
covered on June 13, 1827, by and named for John Walker, a 
member of the party of the three Commissioners appointed to 
survey the road to Santa Fé in 1825-1827. He was expert in 
lettering with his pen-knife and tomahawk. Because of his gi- 
gantic size he was called “Big John.” On the date mentioned 
Walker took to Sibley some of the water from the spring and 
asked him what name it should have. The latter directed him to 
cut in large letters on a big oak that grew near the spring “Big 
John’s Spring.” (Sibley, ‘““Route to Santa Fé” in Western Jour- 
nal, vol. 5, p. 178.) 


17 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL LUNE 


most delightful water we have had on the road. It is 
quite a romantic place; just from the side of the hill 
around which the road winds, we ascend a rather steep 
bank, at the foot of which is a natural basin of half a 
foot or more deep, filled [with] cristal liquid as cold 
and pure as ever mortal can need. The scenery around 
is very wild and rather awing. While I stood appar- 
ently very calm and bold as mi alma bent down to fix 
a little toddy with water from the clear flowing 
stream, I could not suppress the fear, or rather the 
thought of some wily savage or hungry wolf might be 
lurking in the thick grape vines, ready the first ad- 
vantageous moment to bounce upon my shoulders. I 
would not tell mi alma these foolish fears, for I knew 
he would ridicule them, and this was torture to me, 
but Ring, my faithful Ring, came by me just then 
and I commenced patting his head which made him 
lie at my feet and I felt safe with this trusty soldier 
near me. We took dinner quite late today and in con- 
sequence go without supper, for want of appetite. For 
my part I am off to bed as soon as it is dark. 

Camp No. 10. Still at Council Grove. At early sun 
rise this morning Col. Owens and Armijo’s company 
arrived. Stayed in camp nearly all day. About sun 
down Mr. M. took me to see an adjacent spring. It 
bursts from the foot of the mound I spoke of yester- 
day and in a thick clump of high grass. It is rather a 
strange place, one comes upon it without ever think- 
ing that such a thing could be near. It is quite deep, 
though not larger than half a bushel. The water is 
perfectly cool and clear. Besides this we took a long 

18 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


walk around and through the hills. The scenery is 
truly magnificent. At one view we have stretched 
before us lofty hills entirely destitute of shrubbery; 
at their base gurgled along in quiet solitude a pearlly 
stream laving the feet of giant trees that looked 
down with scorn upon the diminutive creature man. 
In the green and tender grassed meadow just before 
us the foreground of the scene, were seen quietly graz- 
ing hundreds of cattle and mules, while others fa- 
tigued from daily toil were seen resting their weary 
limbs near the shade trees. To the right of us as we 
stood facing the N. E., might be seen a small village 
as it were, formed though of wagons only. A “corral” 
had been formed, or in English the wagons were so 
arranged as to form a great circle into which the stock 
are some times driven for a night’s protection, and 
always for a “catch up.” Around and inside of this 
the teamsters were actively employed repairing their 
wagons, and making further preparations for “‘the 
road.” This view was all to the North and N. E. as 
we stood on the high and celebrated mound of Council 
Grove. To our backs lay other and similar scenes, 
beautiful alike for the artists pencil. We have one in 
our Company, Mr. Stanley* rather celebrated for his 


®° John Mix Stanley made sketches and paintings of the wild 
scenes encountered on the expedition into the wilderness of the 
West during the first half of the last century. His works were 
among the most interesting of that period. The Smithsonian 
Institution in December, 1852, issued a catalogue of his pictures 
describing them as “accurate portraits painted from life of forty- 
three different tribes of Indians, obtained at the cost, hazard, and 
inconvenience of ten years’ tour through the southwestern prairies, 


19 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL LONE 


Indian sketches. His acquaintance I have not yet 
made, but at any rate a sketch of this would do his 
hand credit. 

Camp No. 11, Sunday 21st. We left our two days’ 
camp this morning by 614 o’clock. The “Diamond 
Spring’” at which we are now lying being but twelve 
miles distant we made the whole drive at once. Got 
into camp by 2 o’clock. 

The Company today presents rather a more ex- 
tensive van. We have a strange compound of Ameri- 
cans, Mexicans and negroes; Horses, mules and oxen. 
This may litterally be considered our start No. 2, after 


New Mexico, California and Oregon.” This catalogue listed 151 
pictures left on exhibition. All but five of them were burnt by fire 
January 24, 1865. One of these five, showing a buffalo hunt, is 
reproduced in this volume. 

Stanley enlisted in Lieut. Emory’s detachment, and accom- 
panied him to California. The illustrations in the Senate edition 
of Emory’s Notes of a Military Reconnoissance, are the work of 
John Stanley. In 1853 Stanley accompanied Isaac I. Stevens 
on his ‘Explorations for a route for the Pacific Railroad from 
St. Paul to Puget Sound.” A great many of his sketches have 
been reproduced in Mr. Stevens’ Report. (Bushnell, David I., in 
Smithsonian Report, 1924.) 

° Diamond Spring was discovered by “Old Ben Jones,” a 
hunter of Sibley’s party, on August 11, 1825. “It gushes out from 
the head of a hollow in the prairie and runs among clean stones 
to Otter Creek.” It furnishes enough good, clear, cold water to 
supply an army, and is superior to the fountain in the Arabian 
Desert, known as the “Diamond of the Desert’; the name of the 
latter suggested a good name for this spring, which might well 
be called the “Diamond of the Plain.” Sibley camped there June 
10, 1827, and had Big John carve the name on an Elm. (Sibley, 
“Route to Santa Fé” in Western Journal, vol. 5, p. 180.) 


20 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


a respite of two days and the augmenting of our 
fources to forty-five wagons. We compose three or 
four different camps. It is a village on a hill this, for 
we are strewn in all directions; where the abodes of 
men are not seen, the stock are in grazing, appearing 
as much, to the distant spectator, like little dark huts 
of some kind, while our tents and largest wagons ap- 
pear like magnificent domes. 

Camp No. 12. Ouch, what a day this is! We started 
in the rain, came in the rain, and stoped in the rain. 
Last night was a very cold night, and about day-light 
it commenced raining. We started at 9 o’clock having 
had difficulty in yoking the oxen. After travelling 
only a mile two of the wagons stuck at the crossing of 
a small creek and we were there detained some time, 
but finally got off, and arrived here by 4 o’clock. This 
camping ground is called the “Lost spring’ from 
what cause I do not know. It is 12 miles from “Dia- 
mond Spring.” 

We met Capt. Bent” this morning, on his return 
from his fort up the big Arkansas river. While he was 
in conversation with Mr. M. [Samuel Magoffin] I 
closed a letter to Papa. It was a hurried affair, for I 
had only a few minutes to do it in, and then the wind 
and rain were blowing in my face, blotting my paper, 
and shaking me so I scarcely knew what I wrote. 

This is certainly one of the “varieties of life” as 
well as of traveling. To be shut up in a carriage all 

10 Capt. Charles Bent left Fort Bent June 12, 1846, and ar- 


rived at Independence June 29 following. Leaving St. Louis on 
July 24, he arrived at Fort Bent August 17, 1846. 


21 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL LONE 


day with a buffalo robe rolled around you, and with 
the rain pouring down at ten knots an hour. And at 
the close of this to be quietly without any trouble to 
one’s self, into the middle of a bed in a nice dry tent, 
with writing materials around you and full privellege 
to write anything and every thing that may chance to 
enter one’s head whether foolishness, as this is, or 
wisdom. We have rainy days any place and they are — 
not more disagreeable on the plains than in N. Y. 
I have books, writing implements, sewing, kniting, 
somebody to talk with, a house that does not leak 
and I am satisfied, although this is a juicy day en el 
campo! : 

Camp No. 13. “Lost spring” June 23rd. Tf I can- 
_ not spin a yarn today it is not because I have no field 
for action! Here I am in the middle of my bed, with 
my feet drawn up under me like a tailor. I have taken 
refuge from the rain, which from the time we went to 
bed last night till this time 3 o’clock P. M. has con- 
tinued to fall—not exactly in torrents, but quite fast, 
and driving against the tent as though it would wash 
us away every moment. But we continue dry over 
head and that is something, for our neighbours over 
the way, are washed head and foot. We were late 
rising this morning for we had nothing to do; when 
we did get up, we eat our breakfast and came back to 
bed again; that is, we sat in the middle of the bed to 
keep our feet dry. The water ran through the tent like 
a little spring, so we just turned the carpet up to the 
pole, and left that part of the house to see after itself. 

Alma mia soon grew tired of sitting with his feet 

22 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


as high as his head, so he put his head into my lap,— 
me at my work in the mean time—and dozed a little 
and talked a little. Soon we both lay down for a nap, 
but just as we were fixed for this our neighbour Col. 
Owens, feeling apprehensive for our welfare and 
anxious to let us know his own fate, stepped in. He 
has been compelled to take up his alls and find another 
resting place, for to use his own words “the floor of 
his house looked as though a parcel of pigs had turned 
a trough of slop over in it and then wallowed till it 
was a perfect mire.” Rather a sad predicament that; 
he found us in rather a more thriving condition. 

As bad as it all is, I enjoy it still. I look upon it as 
one of the “varieties of life,” and as that is always 
“spice” of course it must be enjoyed. 

If I live through all this—and I think from all ap- 
pearances now I shall come off the winner—lI shall 
be fit for one of the Oregon pioneers. We are here 
without a stick of wood to get anything to eat, all that 
was provided at the last camp having been used last 
night & this morning—some of the men though have 
gone off, perhaps several miles to find some. I believe 
there is not a tree in sight of camp. And this should 
no longer be called the lost spring for it is “runing 
high” now, and taking all before it. 

Thursday 25th. Camp 15. Cotton wood creek 12 
miles. We are here and as much as a bargain! I have 
been trying all day to recollect the scenes of yester- 
day, for I did not write them then. 

I believe I have at length found them at least in 
part. We left the Lost Spring about 7 o’clock yester- 

23 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL pene 


day morning with the intention if possible to reach 
Cottonwood before night, and without stoping for 
dinner. But the previous rains foiled our attempts at 
this. ‘The roads were very heavy and often the mud 
entirely blocked a wagon wheel. Our speed averaged 
not more than one mile per hour. At 3 o’clock P. M. 
after a travel of 6 or 7 ms. we stoped to noon it on the 
open prairie without wood, save a little that was 
saved of our scant supply at the “Lost Spring.” 

Col. Owens and his partner Mr. Awld™ were more 


7+ James Aull, born in Wilmington, Delaware, in 1804, was 
the son of John and Margaret (Elliot) Aull. He removed from 
Newcastle, Delaware, in 1836 to Lexington, Missouri, following 
his eldest brother, John Aull, who had been engaged successfully 
in merchandising in western Missouri since 1819. Later, another 
brother, Robert, joined them, and the three, known as Aull 
Brothers, conducted stores at Lexington, Liberty, Richmond, and 
Independence, Missouri. The brothers were well known through- 
out the western country, and accumulated great fortunes; John 
and Robert being known as the capitalists of western Missouri. 
They were energetic, active, and liberal men in the period be- 
tween 1820 and 1860, and contributed largely to educational and 
civic enterprises. James Aull joined Colonel Samuel C. Owens 
in the Santa Fé trade, and strangely both of them met violent 
deaths on their expedition of 1846. Aull was brutally assassi- 
nated by Mexicans in his store at Chihuahua on June 238, 1847. 
Being alone in his store one evening, four Mexicans came in 
ostensibly to trade, but when he turned his back they stabbed 
him to death, carrying away most of his goods and money. A 
fine repeating gold watch was overlooked, and this,: together 
with Mr. Aull’s Bible, was faithfully preserved and brought back 
to Missouri by his negro servant, Andrew. Mr. Aull was buried 
in the Catholic Cemetery at Chihuahua. Unsuccessful efforts 
were made by his brothers to locate the remains and bring them 


24 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


pushing in their attempts. Their ox teams (they have 
five) passed us and came on I believe safe to this 
place. But his mule teams (some eighteen or twenty ) 
were from the time we stoped till 6 o’clock passing 
the little wet weather creek near which we camped. At 
6 o'clock we left and about a mile distant found the 
Col. in a sad predicament indeed. He had one wagon 
fast in a mud-hole with the tongue twisted off, and 
two others so much disabled he could not move them; 
his teams had given out and there he was for the night. 
Seeing all this made our wagoners ambitious to get 
on, so they set to work in right good earnest, and after 
the usual quantity of swearing, whooping, and crack- 
ing of whips, they succeeded in passing their wagons. 
It was now nearly dark, and they had to drive to the 
top of a long hill before any kind of a camping place 
could be found. 
~ When they got there they had neither wood nor 
water, so the night was spent in fasting and wet 
cloths. 
We drove all of our concern, that is, the little Rock- 
away carriage we are travelling in, Jane’s dearborn 


back to Missouri. It was their desire to have them reinterred in 
the Cemetery Square at Lexington, originally donated by James 
Aull to that city in 1836. 

No man in western Missouri commanded a greater degree of 
respect and affection in those days, when Independence and 
Lexington were the starting points for Santa Fé and Oregon 
trails, than James Aull. He was an elder in the Lexington 
Presbyterian Church, which was built on the lot adjoining his 
residence. An unassuming gentleman, of energy and judgment. 
He never married. 


25 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL JUNE 


and the baggage wagon, on about half a mile further 
to where Col. Owens had one or two more wagons 
stuck fast near a small wet weather branch or small 
creek. It was now after 9 o’clock and quite damp. So 
just as soon as our tent could be stretched and the 
bed made, which took us till after 10—I slipped off 
to roost. 

I was so tired I could not sleep; it commenced rain- 
ing too and beat so near my head, I thought every 
minute I must surely get a ducking, but I kept dry 
though, and a little before daylight got a short nap. 

Soon the wagoners were stirring, anxious to cross 
the creek before it should rain any more. The prin- 
cipal pass way was blocked by Col. Owens’ wagons, 
so they doubled teams and cut around to make one of 
their own. Then tent was soon knocked up and off we 
came to “Cotton Wood” to get our breakfast, for we 
had not a stick of wood to cook with there, and hungry 
necessity compelled us to come, we had had nothing 
to eat since dinner yesterday. We crossed the creek 
without difficulty, the banks are long but not very 
steep; the rain has made them quite slippy, but our 
little light carriages passed them easy. We got our 
dinner, or rather breakfast about 1 o’clock. Seven of 
the wagons with doubled teams came over this morn- 
ing, the others are coming in now, late P. M. 

While Jane and I were on a little stroll after 
dinner, I carelessly walking along steped almost onto 
a large snake; it moved and frightened me very much. 
Of course I screamed and ran off, and like a ninny 
came back when the snake had been frightened by me 

26 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


as much as it had me, and had gone I can’t tell where. 
I came back to look for it. 

The last wagon did not get over till 9 o’clock. It 
stuck in the mud and when two drivers with eleven 
yoke of oxen failed to move it some more hands went 
down from camp and they “whiped out” a teamster’s 
term meaning they fell to work with their whip 
handles and beat the poor oxen, whooping and yelling 
all the time, till one is almost induced to believe their 
throats will split. They continue this till fear of their 
oppressors will compel the brutes to pull till they 
move it, and as a reward for their preseverance they 
come off with bloody necks from the yoke’s rubbing, 
and their heads and backs well whip-lashed. It is a 
hard life both for driver and animals, and this day 
has been so especially, the drive was not long but 
difficult. 
~ Camp No. 16. I have not yet described “The Cotton 
Wood.’ I went down this P. M., after the little 
shower we had, to see it. And such a ramble it was. 

The camp ground is on a slight rise, and some three 
or four hundred yards down is a steep bank covered 
with cotton wood trees, (which give it the name). 
Just below rolls a placid little stream, resembling 
some the Council Grove, though not so grand or 
lively. Its waters were darkened by the recent rain 
and perhaps that makes the difference. Just at the 
water’s edge are quantities of gooseberry and rasp- 
berry bushes. They were nearly rifled of their fruits 
by the wagoners, before I went to them. Above these 
and on the side rather of the cliff, is a thick plumb 

27 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL LONE 


grove—these too I missed for they are not yet ripe; 
however I pulled some of them only to say I had 
picked three kinds of fruits in one spot on Cotton- 
wood creek. 

Jane and I climbed entirely down this bank as 
steep as it was. Women are venturesome creatures! 
And we found this still more true when we were ready 
to return. We had difficulties now that were entirely 
unseen coming down. We had wandered farther up 
the stream than the place where we descended and 
there found our road steeper and more slippy. But 
we took it all in good part and procured long sticks 
to assist us in our undertaking. [ took the lead stoping 
at every step to laugh at my own picture (an old 
woman with her back bent double, her cloths held up 
to her knees and a long staff) and to place my walking 
stick in a safe place before venturing to rest my 
precious self on it. We finally reached the land, for 
we considered ourselves in the water before as one 
false step would have landed us in the little stream, 
and to me quite fearful from its dark looks. 

One of the prairie pests to me is a green bug, which 
I can do more justice to in describing by calling it an 
aligator in miniature. Its legs and body are both very 
long and remarkably slender, and it goes creeping and 
feeling about everything before it. I am no friend to 
bugs, worms, or snakes, and though the good people 
here assure me there is no harm attached to it, its very 
looks frighten me. I never walk in the grass without 
holding my dress up high, from fear that its long 
arm may chance to grapple me. These things, snakes 

28 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


and musquitoes are the only disagreeable parts of my 
prairie life. 

To have peeped into our tent this afternoon one 
might have been induced to believe I disliked the 
rain, but the idea is mistaken! It is truly fun for me. 
I kick up the carpet, put all things from the floor on 
to the chairs, pull off my own shoes, and then take my 
seat in the middle of the bed, which I am induced to 
introduce as my boat, not from its shape, or appear- 
ance in any way, but from its keeping me dry from 
the pond of water below me. I might spin a long yarn 
and say it is a perfect river, with fishes and great 
animals, but not so, it runs in a little stream only 
frightening off the bugs, and this part I don’t object 
to. I am their sworn enemy and it does me no harm 
to see them floating down the stream. 

Camp No. 17. Out on the Prairie with no wood and 
little water. I am in as good humour this morning as 
any one can be when they have been kept awake all 
night by the outward elements. We got to camp last 
evening rather late and I put off writing till this 
morning, but I am afraid the good humour I am in 
will not let me recollect the events of yesterday. 

I must first record the trials of last night—It had 
something the appearance of rain at dark & accord- 
ingly I prepared for a drenching during the night. 
But it did not come though. But I am sure I should 
prefer it if I knew that another such was in store for 
me. The heat at first was so great, I had to pull all 
but my chemise [off], and even that would have been 
sent off without regret, had not modesty forbid me. 

29 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL OND 


I had just fussed and turned about till sleep came to 
my relief, but it brought with it a gust of wind that 
I thought would blow our house, the bed its inmates 
and all into a mass too much on the chaos order to be 
separated ever. To add to all the pleasure and beauty 
of this, it commenced lightening, right in my face. It 
actually seemed that everything was angry with me 
from some cause or other & were now taking their 
“satisfaction.” The wind carried with it the heat, but 
put in its place a chilly damp air. I commenced pulling 
for couver, but that was out of place and after a search 
in the dark, I found that Mr. Ringling (the dog) had 
very gallantly made his bed on it. I hoisted him from 
this berth though, and with my burthen crawled back 
to my own, to “make the best of it.” 

But for our yesterday’s travel. We left at 7 o’clock 
in the morning—came some six miles, the road toler- 
ably good, nooned it on the Prairie with little water 
and no wood but that provided at Cottonwood. After 
dinner to get rid of the hot sun, we spread out a 
buffalo robe in the little shade made by the carriage, 
and took a short siesta of a few minutes. The drive in 
the evening was not so far though quite as good. The 
roads are very heavy, wagons are sticking constantly 
in the marshy ground Dee which we have princi- 
pally come today. 

Saw an antelope this P. M. It was not quite so 
venturesome as the one we saw at Council Grove and 
did not come near. Rather a sensible creature that! 
He knows something of the cruel and wily man! 

Camp No. 18 On the wide Prairie. Sunday June 

30 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


28th, 1846. 'This is my third Sabbath on the Plains. 
And how does conscience tell me it has been spent? 
Oh, may my heavenly father grant me pardon for my 
wickedness! Did I not in the very beginning of it 
forget—yes, and how can I be pardoned for the great 
sin—that it was the Holy Sabbath, appointed by my 
heavenly father for a day of rest—and classed it so 
much with the days of the week, that I regularly took 
out my week’s work, kniting. Oh, how could I ever 
have been so thoughtless, so unmindful of my duty 
and my eternal salvation! 

Passed the whole day with little wood, and no water 
for the cattle, but some little about in puddles. Had 
some difficulty in crossing a swampy place, this eve- 
ning; the teamsters had to mow grass and put in it, 
before they could pass their teams. 

Noon. No. 20. Little Arkansas River. June 30th, 
1846. Come my feeble pen, put on thy specks and as- 
sist this full head to unburthen itself! Thou hast a 
longer story than is usual to tell. How we left Camp 
No. 19 yesterday (Monday) morning after a sleep- 
less night, our tent was pitched in the musquito region 
and when will the God Somnus make his appearance 
in such quarters? It was slap, slap, all the time, from 
one party of the combatants, while the others came 
with a buz and a bite. 

We traveled till 11 o’clock with the hope of finding 
water for the weary cattle. The sun was excessively 
oppressive. Col. Owens’ mule teams left us entirely, 
but his oxen like ours were unable to stand the heat. 
They were before us and stoped—we followed their 

31 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL UNE 


example, as much from necessity as any thing else. 
The oxen, some of them staggered under their yokes, 
and when we turned out for want of water—there was 
none within five miles of us that we knew of—some of 
the most fatigued absolutely crept under the wagons 
for shade, and did not move till they were driven up 
in the evening. One poor thing fell in the road and we 
almost gave him up for lost. His driver though, rather 
a tender hearted lad I presume, went with a bucket 
to a mud hole and brought the wet mud which was a 
little cool, and plastered his body over with it. He 
then got all the water from the water kegs after the 
men had drank, which was not more than two or three 
tin cups full; he took this and opening the ox’s mouth 
poured it down his throat. He then made a covering 
over him with the ox yokes standing up and blankets 
spread over. In the course of an hour or two the poor 
thing could get up, and walk. But his great thirst for 
water led him to searching in the deep grass, and when 
the wagons started at 5 o’clock, he could not be found. 
Roman, the old Mexican who attended the loose stock, 
hunted some time for him, but to no purpose. Other 
sick ones needed his attention and it was probable this 
one had gone back to the last night’s camp ground, 
and as it was too far to send on an uncertainty and 
pressing times, we gave up the search. 

It blew up a little cooler towards sunset and we 
travelled pretty well, to make water was our object; 
both man and beast were craving it. The former could 
occasionally find a little to quench his parched thirst, 
by searching ravines that were grown up with tall 

32 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


weeds, this tho’ muddy, and as warm as a scorching 
sun beaming into it all day could make it, was a luxuri- 
ous draught. Now, about dark, we came into the 
musquito regions, and I found to my great horror that 
I have been complaining all this time for nothing, yes 
absolutely for nothing; for some two or hundred or 
even thousands are nothing compared with what we 
now encountered. ‘The carriage mules became so rest- 
less that they passed all the wagons and switching 
their tails from side to side, as fast as they could, and 
slaping their ears, required some strength of our 
Mexican driver to hold them in. He would jerk the 
reins and exclaim “hola los animal[es| como estande 
bravos!” | Ho, animals! how wild you are!] The moon 
was not very bright and we could not see far before 
us. Suddenly one of the mules sprang to one side, 
reared, and pitched till I really believed we should 
turn over. Magoffin discouvered something lying in 
the road, and springing from the carriage pulled me 
out. It was a dead ox lying immediately in our way, 
and it is no wonder the mule was frightened. 

In my own hurry to get out I had entirely forgotten 
the musquitoes, and on returning to the carriage I 
found my feet covered with stings, and my dress full, 
where they had gotten on me in the grass. About 10 
o'clock we came upon a dark ravine, over which las 
caras [los carros—the wagons] would probably ex- 
perience some difficulty in passing, so we stoped to 
see them over. The mules became perfectly frantic, 
and nothing could make them stand. They were 
turned out to shift for themselves, and Magoffin 

33 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL yea 


seeing no other alternative than to remain there all 
night, tied his head and neck up with pocket handker- 
chiefs and set about having the tent stretched. I drew 
my feet up under me, wraped my shawl over my head, 
till I almost smothered with heat, and listened to the 
din without. And such a noise as it was, I shall pray 
ever to be preserved. Millions upon millions were 
swarming around me, and their knocking against the 
carriage reminded me of a hard rain. It was equal to 
any of the plagues of Egypt. I lay almost in a perfect 
stupor, the heat and stings made me perfectly sick, till 
Magoffin came to the carriage and told me to run if I 
could, with my shawl, bonnet and shoes on (and with- 
out opening my mouth, Jane said, for they would 
choke me) straight to the bed. When I got there they 
pushed me straight in under the musquito bar, which - 
had been tied up in some kind of a fashion, and oh, 
dear, what a relief it was to breathe again. There I 
sat in my cage, like an imprisoned creature frightened 
half to death. 

Magoffin now rolled himself up some how with all 
his cloths on, and lay down at my side, he dare not 
raise the bar to get in. I tried to sleep and towards 
daylight succeeded. On awaking this morning I found 
my forehead, arms and feet covered with knots. They 
were not little red places as musquitos generally make, 
but they were knots, some of them quite as large as a 
pea. We knocked up the tent as quick as possible and 
without thinking of breakfast came off to this place, 
passing on our way our own wagons and those of Col. 
Owens encamped at Mud Creek. 

34 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


On our arrival here the buffalo and pillow were 
spread out and I layed down to sleep and I can say it 
took no rocking to accomplish the end. The tent was 
stretched with the intention of remaining here all 
night. The crossing is quite difficult, the sun ex- 
tremely warm and it was supposed the oxen could not 
go on. About 11 o’clock mi alma came and raised me 
by my hand entirely up onto my feet without waking 
me. The whole scene had entirely changed. The sky 
was perfectly dark, wind blowing high, the atmos- 
phere cool and pleasant and no musquitoes, with every 
appearance of a hard storm. 

At 12 o'clock breakfast was ready, and Apps drink- 
ing a cup of tea I fell on the bed completely worn out. 
After two or three hours sound sleep I got up washed, 
combed my head, put on clean cloths—a luxury on the 
plains by the way—and sallied forth in the cool air 
somewhat refreshed. I brought out my writing imple- 
ments and here I am. 

Noon. 21, Little Cow Creek. July 1, 1846. Accord- 
ing to the calculation of Mr. Gregg,” a gentleman 

% Dr. Josiah Gregg was quite a mechanical genius, as well as 
a Santa Fé trader, traveler, explorer, and author. On one of his 
many trips to Santa Fé he was employed by a priest to build 
a clock in the tower of his church, the contract price for which 

was one thousand dollars. Dr. Gregg, however, finished the work 
in much less time than was anticipated by the priest, and he 
refused to pay more than seven hundred dollars. When building 
the clock Dr. Gregg placed in it the image of a little negro, 
which, when the clock would strike, would come outside and 
dance. Some months after Dr. Gregg’s return to the United 
States he received a letter from the priest stating that the little 
negro had ceased to perform his mission, and if he would return 


35 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL ISCLY 


who made several expeditions across the Prairies and 
who wrote a history of the trade &c, we are 249 miles 
from. Independence. 

We camped last night at Arrow Rock creek—most 
of our travel yesterday was after 5 o’clock P. M. till 
10—8 miles. I was quite sick and took medicine which 
has made me feel like a new being today. I am at least 
50 per cent better. 

We had a fine dinner today and I enjoyed it ex- 


and repair it he would pay him the remainder of his money, 
according to the original contract. The following spring Dr. 
Gregg returned to Santa Fé and repaired the clock. Upon in- 
quiry, he learned that the priest’s flock had told him the reason 
the negro would not come out and dance as before was because he 
had not paid the full price agreed upon. Dr. Gregg received his 
three hundred dollars and heard no more of the clock. . 

Dr. Gregg was born in Overton County, Tennessee, July 19, 
1806, the son of Harmon and Susannah (Smelser) Gregg. In 
1809 Harmon Gregg moved his family to Illinois, and from 
there to the territory of Missouri three years later, settling in 
the Boone’s Lick Country. Josiah Gregg was a physician, but 
probably never practiced his profession, as he began life on the 
plains at the age of twenty-five. He was a war correspondent for 
American newspapers during the Mexican War. He wrote Com- 
merce of the Prairies, which is generally accepted as a great 
work. His death occurred while on an expedition into the moun- 
tains of California in the winter of 1849. He was captain of a 
party of forty, organized for the expedition, but only eight of 
them made the start. The others backed down when the Indian 
guides refused to go on account of an unusually severe storm. 
The Indians prophesied that snow in the mountains would pre- 
sent an insurmountable barrier, and their fears were justified 
by the terrible sufferings and casualties which came upon the ex- 
plorers. Dr. Gregg died of exhaustion, due principally to lack of 
food. 


36 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


ceedingly, for I had eaten nothing but a little tea and 
half a biscuit since yesterday dinner. It consisted of 
boiled chicken, soup, rice, and a dessert of wine and 
gooseberry tart. Such a thing on the plains would be 
looked upon by those at home as an utter impossibility. 
But nevertheless it is true. Jane and I went off as soon 
as we got here and found enough to make a fine pie. I 
wish the plumbs and grapes were ripe; there is any 
quantity of them along all the little streams we pass. 

One of the wagoners chased a wolf today. We see 
them frequently lurking about, ready to come pick 
the scraps, if the dogs chance to leave any, where we 
have camped. | 

Camped tonight at big Cow Creek, three miles from 
the other which we left at seven o’clock. The crossing 
here is very bad and took us till moon down to cross. 
It is good water and wood, so we struck camp. 

Camp No. 22. Bank of the Arkansas River. Prairie 
scenes are rather changing today. We are coming 
more into the buffalo regions. The grass is much 
shorter and finer. The plains are cut up by winding 
paths and every thing promises a buffalo dinner on 
the 4th. 

We left our last night’s camp quite early this morn- 
ing. About 9 o’clock we came upon “Dog City.” This 
curiosity is well worth seeing. The Prairie dog, not 
much larger than a well grown rat, burrows in the 
ground. They generally make a regular town of it, 
each one making his house by digging a hole, and 
heaping the dirt around the mouth of this. Two are 
generally built together in a neighbourly way. They 

37 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL ‘TULY 


of course visit as regularly as man. When we got into 
this one, which lays on both sides of the road occupy- 
ing at least a circle of some hundred yards, the little 
fellows like people ran to their doors to see the passing 
crowd. They could be seen all around with their heads 
poked out, and expressing their opinions I supposed 
from the loud barking I heard. 

We nooned it on the Prairie without water for the 
cattle, within sight of the river, but some six miles 
from it. The banks are quite sandy and white, having 
the appearance, at a distance, of a large city. It is 
shaded by the trees in some places, having very much 
the appearance of white and coloured houses. 

Came to camp tonight before sunset. Col. Owens’ 
Company, which got before us this morning, were just 
starting after performing the last office to the dead - 
body of a Mexican. He had consumption. Poor man, 
‘twas but yesterday that we sent him some soup from 
our camp, which he took with relish and today he is 
in his grave! 

The manner of interring on the plains is necessarily 
very simple. The grave is dug very deep, to prevent 
the body from being found by the wolves. The corpse 
is rolled in a blanket—lowered and stones put on it. 
The earth is then thrown in, the sod replaced and it is 
well beat down. Often the corral is made over it, to 
make the earth still more firm, by the tromping of the 
stock. The Mexicans always place a cross at the grave. 

Our camp is on the bank of the Arkansas tonight. 
Its dark waters remind me of the Mississippi.—It 
makes me sad to look upon it.—I am reminded of 

38 


1846} DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


home. Though the Mississippi is a vast distance from 
there—it seems to me a near neighbour, compared 
with the distance I am from it—now three hundred 
miles from Independence. The time rolls on so fast 
I can scarcely realize its three weeks out. 

Camp No. 23. This has indeed been a long day’s 
travel. We left the Arkansas river, along which we 
have been traveling far and near since we first struck 
it, this morning by a little after 6 o’clock, and by 10 
o’clock reached the Walnut Creek, a branch of the 
Arkansas, and eight miles from it. Crossed it with 
ease, the water quite deep though—and nooned it 4 
miles farther near the Arkansas. ‘Today I have seen 
the first time wild buffalo. A herd of some ten or 12 
were just across the river from our nooning place. 
The teamsters all afire to have a chase started off half 
a dozen of them—and much to our surprise, for we 
expected nothing of the kind, killed one—so after all 
we are to have a buffalo dinner tomorrow. 

Started this P. M. about 4 o’clock traveled well till 
6 o'clock, when a very hard thunder storm came up 
and detained us in the road till after eight. A thunder 
storm at sunset on the Prairie is a sublime and awing 
scene indeed. The vivid and forked lightning quickly 
succeeded by the hoarse growling thunder impresses 
one most deeply of his own weakness and the mag- 
nanimity of his God. With nothing before or near us 
in sight, save the wide expanse of Prairie resembling 
most fully in the pale light of the moon, as she occa- 
sionally appeared from under a murky cloud and be- 
tween the vivid lightning, the wide sea. There was no 

39 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL LULY 


object near higher than our own wagons, and how 
easy would it have been for one of them to be struck 
and consume the whole crowd, for with it was a high 
wind, sufficient to counteract the effects of the drench- 
ing rain. 

We traveled on till 12 o’clock and stoped near the 
“Pawnee Rock”’—a high mound with one side of sand 
stone. It derives its name from a battle once fought 
there between some company and a band of the Paw- 
nee Indians. It has rather an awing name, since this 
tribe are the most treacherous and troublesome to the 
traders. 

July 4th 1846. Pawnee Fork. Saturday. What a 
disasterous celebration I have today. It is certainly 
the greatest miracle that I have my head on my shoul- 
ders. I think I can never forget it if I live to be as 
old as my grandmother. 

The wagons left Pawnee Rock some time before 
us.—For I was anxious to see this wonderful curi- 
osity. We went up and while mi alma with his gun and 
pistols kept watch, for the wily Indian may always be 
apprehended here, it is a good lurking place and they 
are ever ready to fall upon any unfortunate trader 
behind his company—and it is necessary to be careful, 
so while mi alma watched on the rock above and Jane 
stood by to watch if any should come up on the front 
side of me, I cut my name, among the many hundreds 
inscribed on the rock and many of whom I knew. It 
was not done well, for fear of Indians made me 
tremble all over and I hurried it over in any way. This 

40 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


I remarked would be quite an adventure to celebrate 
the 4th! but woe betide I have yet another to relate. 
The wagons being some distance ahead we rode on 
quite briskly to overtake them. In an hour’s time we 
had driven some six miles, and at Ash creek we came 
up with them. No water in the creek and the crossing 
pretty good only a tolerably steep bank on the first 
side of it, all but two had passed over, and as these 
were not up we drove on ahead of them to cross first. 
The bank though a little steep was smooth and there 
could be no difficulty in riding down it—However, 
we had made up our minds always to walk down such 
places in case of accident, and before we got to it mi 
alma hallowed “woe” as he always does when he 
wishes to stop, but as there was no motion made by 
the driver to that effect, he repeated it several times 
and with much vehemence. We had now reached the 
very verge of the cliff and seeing it a good way and 
apparently less dangerous than jumping out as we 
were, he said “go on.” The word was scarcely from 
his lips, ere we were whirled completely over with a 
_ perfect crash. One to see the wreck of that carriage 
now with the top and sides entirely broken to pieces, 
could never believe that people had come out of it 
alive. But strange, wonderful to say, we are almost 
entirely unhurt! I was considerably stunned at first 
and could not stand on my feet. Mi alma forgetting 
himself and entirely enlisted for my safety carried me 
in his arms to a shade tree, almost entirely without 
my knowledge, and rubing my face and hands with 
whiskey soon brought me entire to myself.—My 
Al 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL one 


back and side are a little hurt, but is very small com- 
pared with what it might have been. Mi alma has his 
left hip and arm on which he fell both bruised and 
strained, but not seriously. Dear creature *twas for 
me he received this, for had he not caught me in his 
arms as we fell he could have saved himself entirely. 
And then I should perhaps have been killed or much 
crushed for the top fell over me, and it was only his 
hands that kept it off of me. It is better as it is, for 
we can sympathise more fully with each other. 

It was a perfect mess that; of people, books, bottles 
—one of which broke, and on my head too I believe,— 
guns, pistols, baskets, bags, boxes and the dear knows 
what else. I was insensible to it all except when some- 
thing gave me a hard knock and brought me to my- 
self. We now sought refuge in Jane’s carriage for our 
own could only acknowledge its incapability. 

By 12 o'clock we reached this place six miles, when 
we found all the companies which have come on 
before us, having been stoped by an order of Govern- 
ment. 

Sunday 5th. 1 am rather better of my bruises today. 
It is only for a little while though, I fear; such knocks 
seldom hurt so much for a day or two. I am yet to 
suffer for it. 

We are still at “The Pawnee Fork.” The traders 
are all stoped here by an order of Government, to wait 
the arrival of more troops than those already ahead 
of us, for our protection to Santa Fé. 

We are quite a respectable crowd now with some 
seventy-five or eighty wagons of merchandise, beside 

42 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


those of the soldiers. When all that are behind us 
come up we shall number some hundred and fifty. 

And it is quite probable we shall be detained here 
ten days or a week at the least. I shall go regularly to 
housekeeping. It is quite a nice place this, notwith- 
standing the number of wagons and cattle we have 
for our near neighbours. With the great Arkansas on 
the South of us, the Pawnee creek to the S. W. and 
extensive woods in the same direction. From the west 
the buffalo are constantly coming in, in bands of from 
three or four to more than fifty. 

The sight of so many military coats is quite suffi- 
cient to frighten all the Indians entirely out of the 
country. So we have nothing to fear either on account 
of starvation, thirst or sudden murder. 

Monday 6th. Camp No. 26. Ours is quite the pic- 
ture of a hunter’s home today. 

The men, most of them, have been out since sun 
rise, and constantly mules loaded with the spoils of 
their several victories, are constantly returning to 
camp. It is a rich sight indeed to look at the fine fat 
meat stretched out on ropes to dry for our sustinence 
when we are no longer in the regions of the living 
animal. Such soup as we have made of the hump ribs, 
one of the most choice parts of the buffalo. I never 
eat its equal in the best hotels of N. Y. and Philad*. 
And the sweetest butter and most delicate oil I ever 
tasted tis not surpassed by the marrow taken from the 
thigh bones. 

If one cannot live and grow fat here, he must be a 
strange creature. Oh, how much Papa would enjoy 

43 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL LULY 


it! He would at once acknowledge that his venison 
camp never equaled it. 

Mi alma was out this morning on a hunt, but I 
sincerely hope he will never go again. I am so uneasy 
from the time he starts till he returns. There is danger 
attached to it that the excited hunter seldom thinks 
of till it over take him. His horse may fall and kill 
him; the buffalo is apt too, to whirl suddenly on his 
persuer, and often serious if not fatal accidents occur. 
It is a painful situation to be placed in, to know that 
the being dearest to you on earth is in momentary 
danger of loosing his life, or receiving for the re- 
mainder of his days, whether long or short, a torment- 
ing wound. 

The servant. who was with him today, was thrown 
from his horse by the latter stumbling in a hole, with 
which the Prairies are couvered, and had his head 
somewhat injured. And mi alma’s horse was quite 
unruly. 

Wednesday 8th. Camp No. 28. This is our fourth 
day here. It is quite a pleasant and homelike place 
this. They are busy in the kitchen (two wagons drawn 
near up and a hole dug in the ground for a fire place), 
preparations are making for a long jaunt on the 
Plains—for it seems they intend keeping us out of 
Santa Fé almost entirely. 

The soldiers are coming in, and if we have to travel 
behind them, it will be poor living both for man and 
beast. We have all to be allowanced in our provisions 
from this out, or we shall have none at all. 

A. band of more than an hundred buffalo came al- 

44, 





"UNISN]T JDUOYDAT SagDIG payuy hsazunoy 
‘hajyunys “yy uyor hq buywnd v wow 


SHIWIVad NYAYLTSHMHALNOS AHL NO INOH OTVAANA V 








1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


most within gun shot of the camp this morning, and 
for the first time I had a good opportunity of seeing 
the little calves. I sat down immediately and wrote to 
Papa. 

Camp No. 29. Thursday 9th. We have permission 
today to go on as far as the ford of the Arkansas, or 
to Bent’s Fort, as we like, and there to await the ar- 
rival of Col. Carney’* the commanding officer. We 
shall prepare to leave here tomorrow or next day. 

The Fort is 180 miles, and the Ford some seventy 


18 Stephen Watts Kearny was born in Newark, New Jersey, in 
the year 1794. His parents were Philip and Lady Barney Dexter 
(Ravaud) Kearny. While a student at King’s College (now Co- 
lumbia University) he volunteered for the War of 1812. He was 
given a commission as first lieutenant of infantry and served 
under Captain (later General) Wool. Captured by the British 
at the desperate battle of Queenstown Heights, and later ex- 
changed, he was promoted to a captaincy, and remained in the 
service after the war. The remainder of his career was in the 
West and Southwest. In 1825 he went with General Atkinson to 
the head waters of the Missouri in the “Yellowstone Expedition.” 

In 1834 he organized the First Dragoons, a new branch of 
service, and as lieutenant colonel thereof accompanied Colonel 
Dodge in campaign against the Comanche Indians of the Red — 
River country. The high discipline of this regiment became con- 
spicuous, and General Gaines said: ““The First Dragoons are the 
best troops I ever saw.” While in command of the Third Mili- 
tary Department, headquarters at St. Louis, 1842-1846, Colonel 
Kearny made one of the most extraordinary marches on record. 
It extended as far as the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains, 
returning by way of Bent’s Fort to Fort Leavenworth. He held 
successful counsel with many Indian tribes, resulting in protec- 
tion to persons engaged in the Santa Fé trade. As a consequence 
of these experiences and achievements, he was put in charge of 


45 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL LULY 


or eighty. How long we are to be kept there, it is im- 
possible to tell, perhaps it will be for two or three or 
even siv months. Almost the length of time my grand- 
mother spent in such a palace! 

Today for the first time I have had a ride on horse- 
back. It is a treat notwithstanding the jolting horse 
I was on. I am very much disappointed in my fine, 


the “Army of the West” in 1846, during the war with Mexico, 
with rank of brigadier-general, and ordered to take military 
possession of New Mexico and California. 

The selection of General Kearny for this post sent a thrill of 
joy and security through every man who expected to engage in 
that expedition, and volunteers rushed forward to enroll under 
his standard. This military campaign, including his remarkable 
march to California, resulted in the conquest of that territory. 
At the battle of San Pasqual, California, December 6, 1846, he 
was twice wounded. For gallantry and meritorious conduct he 
was brevetted major-general. 

After his return to Washington in the winter of 1847, General 
Kearny was sent to Mexico. At Vera Cruz he contracted yellow 
fever, which undermined his health, and he died soon after the 
war at St. Louis, on October 31, 1848, in the home of Major 
Meriwether Lewis Clark. < 

General Kearny, though not a product of West Point, was a 
fine disciplinarian, a brave soldier and military genius. He was 
influential among the Indians and maintained a degree of good 
fellowship and esprit de corps among his officers and men, which 
was seldom equalled at any artillery post. He was at all times 
courteous, bland, approachable, and just; yet stern, fixed, and 
unwavering when his decisions were once formed. He inspired 
respect and confidence alike in officers and men in the ranks. 

General Kearny married at St. Louis, September 5, 1830, at 
the residence of General William Clark, Miss Mary Radford, 
step-daughter of General Clark. She and several children sur- 
vived him. (St. Louis Republican, November 8, 1848.) 


46 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


noble bay. He walks and paces hard, but I must at- 
tribute it to his being spoiled in the buffalo chase. He 
is constantly on the lookout and requires all my 
strength nearly to hold him in. And I have grown to 
be quite an indifferent horsewoman to what I was in 
my younger days! 

Friday. Camp 30th. The same routine of meat 
drying &c. Still lying by at Pawnee Creek—making 
some preparations though, to leave tomorrow. I have 
been sick nearly ever since I came here the conse- 
quences of my rare celebration of the 4th I suppose. 

Saturday 11th. Camp 31st. Oh how gloomy the 
Plains have been to me today! I am sick, rather sad 
feelings and everything around corresponds with 
them. 

We have never had such a perfectly dead level be- 
fore us as now. The little hillocks which formerly 
broke the perfectly even view have entirely disap- 
peared. The grass is perfectly short, a real buffalo 
and Prairie dog and rattle snake region. 

We left our camp at Pawnee Fork this morning at 
9 oclock. It is 11 o’clock and one of the warmest 
and most disagreeable days the Prairie ever gave 
birth to. We stoped as there was plenty water and the 
oxen tired pulling over those great steep banks. We 
are nooning it here. 

Some twenty of the Government wagons came up. 
We started again at 8 o’clock and traveled on till 914 
o'clock. Stoped on the prairie with a little water 
though enough for the cattle, twelve miles from 
Pawnee creek. 

47 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL LULY 


All the companies are before us, or rather they have 
taken a new road along the River. We are to go along 
by ourselves across the Prairie with little wood and 
perhaps no water, as is most generally the case at this 
point of the road near the Coon Creeks and heart of 
the buffalo range. 

Coon cr. No. 1—5 ms, from Coon Cr. No. 2. Sun- 
day 12th. Camp 32. About 30 miles from Pawnee 
Fork. 

The Sabbath on the Plains is not altogether with- 
out reverence. Every thing is perfectly calm. The 
blustering, swearing teamsters remembering the duty 
they owe to their Maker, have thrown aside their 
abusive language, and are singing the hymns perhaps 
that were taught by a good pious Mother. The little 
birds are all quiet and reverential in their songs. And 
nothing seems disposed to mar that calm, serene 
silence prevailing over the land. We have not the 
ringing of church bells, or the privilege of attending 
public worship, it is true, but we have ample time, 
sufficient reason &c for thinking on the great wisdom — 
of our Creator, for praisimg him within ourselves for 
his excellent greatness in placing before us and en- 
tirely at our command so many blessings; in giving 
us health, minds free from care, the means of knowing 
and learning his wise designs. &c. 

We left our camp early this morning and nooned 
it out on the Prairie with out more shelter from the 
scorching sun than that afforded by the carriage. I 
took so much the advantage of this as to take a quiet 
evening siesta of half hour. A buffalo robe spread out 

48 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


on the ground under the catrin [carriage] with the 
cushions for my pillow, was my whole bed, and quite 
an acceptable one too. 

We drove on till about 12 o’clock, for the morning’s 
drive was not a very good one, and the moon shone so 
bright that mi alma wished to drive all night even, and 
gain as much as possible, but some of the men became 
refractory and stubborn and stoped in the road, re- 
fusing to drive any further because it was night, not- 
withstanding they had driven (on account of the heat) 
but a short distance during the drive. So there was 
nothing to be done but form a corral and spend the 
night here. The place is called by Mr. Gregg, Coon 
Creek. pea 

Monday 13th Noon. Big Coon Creek, No. 3. Left 
our last night’s camp at Little Coon cr. this morning 
quite late, after 8 o’clock, traveled steadily on till 12 
making about eight or nine miles. The day has been 
rather cloudy and favourable for the oxen. 

Passed a great many buffalo, (some thousands) 
they crossed our road frequently within two or three 
hundred yards. They are very ugly, ill-shapen things 
with their long shaggy hair over their heads, and the 
great hump on their backs, and they look so droll 
running. Ring had his own fun chasing them. They 
draw themselves into a perfect knot switching their 
tails about, and throwing all feet up at once. When 
the dog got near to any one of them he would whirl 
around and commence pawing the earth with not a 
very friendly feeling for his delicately formed per- 
suer, I imagine. 

49 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL sane 


We have seen several antelope too this morning. It 
is a noble animal indeed; and there is certainly nothing 
that moves with more majestic pride, or with more 
apparent disdain to inferior animals than he does. 
With his proud head raised aloft, nostrels expanded 
wide, he moves with all the lightness, ease and grace 
imaginable. 

And we also had a rattle-snake fracas. There were 
not hundreds killed tho’, as Mr. Gregg had to do to 
keep his animals from suffering, but some two or 
three were killed in the road by our carriage driver, 
and these were quite enough to make me sick. 

Road to Bent’s Fort. Saturday 18th. Camp 38, 
Bank of the Arkansas. I have written nothing in my 
journal since Monday, and what a considerable 
change there has been in affairs. | 

Tuesday I was taken sick—and recollect that we 
reached the River at noon that day. Went on about 
six miles in the evening, struck it again about Sun 
down, and camped for the night. We now had in com- 
pany Messrs. Harmoney,” Davie,” Glasgow,” and 

14 Manuel X. Harmony, a native of Spain, but a naturalized 
citizen of the United States, living and doing business in New 
York. His firm’s name was P. Harmony, Nephews & Co. This 
firm was engaged in trade with northern Mexico, and in the 
spring of 1846 sent out its regular caravan, in charge of 
Manuel X. Harmony. With this train of twelve wagons and teams, 
Jaden with merchandise, mostly from foreign countries, he left 
Independence May 27, 1846. Under the orders of General 
Kearny he was forced to remain with the other traders at Pawnee 
Fork, and then to travel in the rear of the army to Santa Fé. 

Harmony aided Doniphan in two substantial ways; by com- 
municating information relative to movements and designs of the 


50 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


two companies of soldiers’ wagons. Both Wednesday 
and Thursday we made pretty much the same travel, 
reached the crossing Thursday, when we nooned it. 


enemy; by giving all his means and credit to supply provisions 
for the quartermaster and commissary department. Doniphan 
confiscated his wagons and impressed his men into service. M. B. 
Edwards, in his unpublished diary, has the following entry about 
him: “Harmony, a trader, formerly from old Spain, had his 
mules hid under pretense that the Apaches had stolen them, he 
wanted to remain behind until our battle at Chihuahua, and then 
come in as a great friend of the victor.” Arriving at Chihuahua, 
Harmony decided that it was unsafe to remain there after the 
army should depart, so went with the Americans to join General 
Taylor. Harmony was given an escort of twenty-five American 
troops and permitted to travel as he wished, but under orders to 
keep in communication with the army. To avoid the heat he 
traveled mostly at night and camped during the day. During the 
fight of Captain Reid with the Indians at El Pozo, Harmony and 
his escort came up and entered into the fight. Returning to the 
United States in the fall of 1847, he filed a claim against the 
government for $82,956.89, besides a claim of $20,000 for 
damages for loss of time, use of his money, expenses, etc., because 
of his detention by the army and for impressment of his team- 
sters into the service. A committee of Congress reported a bill 
for his relief. | 

*® Cornelius Davy was a prominent citizen and merchant of 
Independence in the early days. He returned to Independence 
from the expedition, here described, on July 13, 1847. 

16 Edward J. Glasgow, son of William and Sarah (Mitchell) 
Glasgow, was born in Belleville, [linois, June 7, 1820. In 1827 
his father moved his family to St. Louis. Edward Glasgow was 
educated at the St. Louis University and St. Charles (Missouri) 
College. Before attaining his majority he was appointed United 
States Consul at Guaymas by President Van Buren. Later, 
deciding not to remain at that seaport, he resigned. Glasgow 
went to Mexico in 1840 to take charge of a business in which he 


51 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL ne 


Here we found it rather better to go on to the Fort 
especially as some two or three companies had gone 
before us and the Detr. with them. Made a tolerable 
drive that evening, and camped on the River again. 
I was quite sick now took medicine. 

Friday morning I was no better, and mi alma sent 
a man ahead to stop the Dr. He returned in the course 
of four or five hours, having left the Dr. in waiting 
some twelve miles ahead of us. 

We left camp about 2 o’clock P. M. and leaving 
the wagons to follow on at leisure, hurried on to this 
place by sun set, (all the companies save Owens and 
our own wagons are here). 


was interested jointly with James Harrison, and his uncle, 
James Glasgow. He located at Mazatlan and continued in trade 
there until 1843. In that year he left Mazatlan, sailing around 
Cape Horn to New York. He then embarked in the overland 
trade between Missouri and Chihuahua, forming a partnership 
with Dr. Henry Connelly, and continued in that business for 
five years. 

When Colonel Doniphan organized a battalion of two com- 
panies of traders and their employes, Mr. Glasgow was elected 
captain of one of the companies. He took part in the battle of 
Sacramento, and entered Chihuahua with the army. Here he 
remained until the coming of General Price and his troops. 
During the latter part of 1847 and a part of 1848, Mr. Glasgow 
served as United States Commercial Agent at Chihuahua. At the 
close of the war he returned to St. Louis, where he engaged in 
the mercantile and banking business. 

Mr. Glasgow married Harriet Kennerly, October 27, 1856, 
and of this union two sons were born, Julian Kennerly Glasgow 
and William Jefferson Glasgow. Two of Mr. Glasgow’s sisters 
married brothers of General William Clark, of Lewis and Clark 
fame. Mr. Glasgow died in St. Louis, December 7, 1908. 


52 


: 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


Now that I am with the Doctor I am satisfied. He 
is a polite delicate Frenchman (Dr. Masure)*™ from 
St. Louis. He has sandy hair and whiskers, a lively 
address and conversation—is called an excellent phy- 
sician “especially in female cases,’ and in brevity I 
have great confidence in his knowledge and capacity 
of relieving me, though not all at once, for mine is a 
case to be treated gently, and slowly, a complication 
of diseases. 

The idea of being sick on the Plains is not at all 
pleasant to me; it is rather terrifying than otherwise, 
although I have a good nurse in my servant woman 
Jane, and one of the kindest husbands in the world, 
all gentleness and affection, and would at any time 
suffer in my stead. 

Notwithstanding the hurry in our passing them, 
and my sickness, I must say something of “the 
Caches,” rather a celebrated place that! They are situ- 
ated about 20 miles the other side of the crossing, and 


17 Dr. Philippe Auguste Masure was a native of Belgium, and 
emigrated to St. Louis in 1827. Here by an advertisement in a 
local newspaper, he “offered his professional services in different 
branches of physic, surgery and midwifery.’’ He was the son of 
Victor and Marie Josephe (Parmentier) Masure. Dr. Masure 
was married in St. Louis to Marie Magdeleine Chenie, daughter 
of Antoine and Marie Therese (Papin) Chenie, February 18, 
1830. Their children were Athalie Masure, who married William 
Daggett; Therese Masure, who married Constantine Schneer, and 
Auguste Masure. Dr. Masure was the brother of Dr. Henry 
Masure, who preceded him to Mexico, dying at Santa Ana in 
March, 1846. Dr. Philippe Masure seems to have spent the re- 
mainder of his life in Mexico, as there is no record of his return- 
ing to St. Louis. 


53 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL LTO 


are large holes dug in the ground somewhat the shape 
of a jug. They were made there in the winter of 1812 
by a party of traders (Beard and others) who were 
overtaken by a severe winter, their animals died, and 
these pits called “Caches,” a word of French origin, 
were made, the insides lined with moss and whatever 
else of the kind they could obtain, and their goods 
concealed in them till the following spring, when after 
procuring more assistance, they removed them. They 
are situated about a quarter of a mile from the River, 
on rather an elevated piece of ground, and within a 
hundred yards of the road, which runs at present be- 
tween them and the river. They are quite as noted as 
any point on the road and few travellers pass without 
visiting them. I was rather too much of an invalid, 
though, to go nearer than the road. 

Tuesday (Noon) 21st. A ship-wreck on land, is the 
theme of my story today. 

To begin when I last left off, (on Saturday) is un- 
important, since but little has occurred of interest till 
last night. | 

We left our camp at 4 o’clock P. M. with a storm 
blowing over head; we stoped for the night, quite in 
good time, set up the house, which from necessity had 
but a “sand foundation,” and eat supper, and went to 
bed by a little past 8 o’clock. But this was destined to 
be of very short duration. In a mement the elements 

18 Mrs. Magoffin is mistaken in this date. It was in the spring 
of 1823 that James Baird and his party made the caches. After 
his release from Chihuahua prison he returned to the States in 


1822, and in the fall of that year he and his friend, Samuel 
Chambers, started on their second expedition to Santa Fé. 


54 


f 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


seemed in deadliest warfare. The lightning flashed its 
awful tongue in all directions, till the whole heavens 
seemed in one light blaze. The angry thunder raised 
its coarse notes, peal after peal. And the dark clouds, 
jealous lest they should be overcome by their two 
combatants, poured down the rain, till it was quite im- 
possible to hear a word spoken within or without. The 
tent shook violently and we could almost feel the sand 
loosening from the pegs. Mz alma sprang up, and 
dressed himself, (I following his example) and 
“yelled loud and long” till he succeeded in calling to 
his assistance, for he saw that the whole fabric must 
soon sink beneath the tempest, our three Mexican 
servants Jose, Sendavel and Tabino. His object was 
to have me carried to the carriage before the fall; but 
it was impossible. Our gallant vessel unable longer to 
bear the storm gave way in her might, and without a 
groan sunk to the flooded Earth! I was extricated I 
scarcely know how from the ropes &c., the pole fell on 
me—and by some means or other found my way to 
the carriage, though not without a good soaking. I 
was wet through and through. Mi alma rolled me in 
blankets. There I remained till after midnight, when 
the storm had entirely abated, and I crept off to 
Jane’s carriage (in which she sleeps) and begged 
quarters, for our little concern was too small and full 
of water to think of sitting in it longer. This was 
cheerfully granted me and I stretched myself out on 
her bed, not with an eye to sleep, but with a longing 
heart for daylight. 

I cannot end “The Ship-wreck on land” though 

55 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL HUEY 


without eulogizing our Mexican servants for their 
faithful exertions to shield us from any exposure. 
They got us in the carriage and pulled it to the bag- 
gage wagon and tied their wheels to prevent a turn 
over, and then gave us their blankets, even depriving 
themselves in a measure, with the hope of keeping us 
dry. They are truly faithful, and are worthy our 
sincere thanks. 

This morning has been quite eventful too. 

A narrow but deep creek detained the whole com- 
pany for more than two hours. Our wagons were the 
first to pass, which they did with safety, save the 
breaking a bow or two on one of them, by running it 
against a tree limb overhanging the bank. It took a 
great deal of whooping and cracking of whips to make 
the oxen pass over without stoping to quench their 
parched thirst in the cool stream they were wading 
through up to their very throats. 

It is rather a new and novel sight to see mz alma, 
which he did today, mount a bare-back horse without 
a bridle, with only a halter, and ride through this deep 
water, with his feet drawn almost up to the horse’s 
back after the manner of mill boys. 

We nooned it on this side of the little stream. 

A most delightful dinner we had, of dos patos asado 
y frijoles cocido [two roasted ducks and baked beans ]. 
It was a splendid dinner that, and many people in 
“the States” have set down to worse.— 

A thunder storm this evening has made us stop 
very early. I hope we'll not have another wreck, bah! 

Bent’s Fort, July 27, 1846. Monday noon. I have 

56 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


been rather negligent in my writing lately. The last I 
wrote was on Tuesday 21st, after our little ship-wreck. 
After this was over I supposed an Indian fracas 
would be our next adventure, for the day following 
we passed their sign, such as old mockasins, and a post 
set in the ground, with a fork at the other end, in 
which were a sword and bundle of fagots, many in 
number, representing, as I was told a sign to some 
other of their tribe passing after them, the army of 
the whites they were numerous: The sword was 
painted red, for the use they made with it, and it also 
had several notches cut in it to represent the number 
of days since they passed. 

We met with no very strange adventure. I was 
careful enough at every little hill to get out and walk, 
for the last narrow escape we had is not out of my 
mind yet. 

One evening we had an abundance of musquitoes 
and another slight thunder storm. It was not so fear- 
ful tho’ as the other in more than one respect. We had 
the tent secured by ropes fastened to the top of the 
pole and to the carriage and la cara [ carro—wagon | 
wheels. 

The road has been very sandy and almost on the 
river bank, which are poorly timbered till some 120 
miles from the crossing it is rather thicker for ten or 
12 miles, and taller the trees, with more the appear- 
ance of the Mississippi banks. In some places the 
country is hilly and covered with large stones, but 
generally speaking it is perfectly level plain, destitute 

57 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL WULY 


of every thing, even grass, the great reliever of the 
eye, and making it painful to the sight. 

Saturday morning we saw in front of us and many 
miles distant, perhaps eighty, a mountain called I 
think James Peak.” 

In the evening we came on some five miles ahead of 
the wagons, to where Messrs Davie, Harmony and 
Hickman” were encamped till we have permission 


79 Dr. Edwin James of Long’s Expedition to the Rocky Moun- 
tains, was the first American to make the ascent of Pike’s Peak. 
This he did on July 18-14, 1820, and in honor of this achieve- 
ment Major Long thought proper to call the peak by his name. 
While “James’ Peak” appears on the early maps, the name was 
not acceptable to the mountain men, traders, and trappers, who 
traversed that country. They called it “Pike’s Peak” after 
General Z. M. Pike, who visited it in November, 1806. On the 
map in Gregg’s Commerce of the Prairie, the name is given as 
“Pike’s Peak or James.” , 

20 James Prewitt Hickman was born in 1814 in Bourbon 
County, Kentucky, son of Thomas and Sarah (Prewitt) Hick- 
man. At an early age his parents moved to Cooper County, Mis- 
souri. Upon reaching his maturity James P. Hickman located in 
Boonville, and subsequently became one of the leading mer- 
chants of central Missouri. His brick buildings were just above 
the landing of the river on Main street. Later he moved from 
Boonville to Independence, where he did an extensive business. 
During this time, as a member of the firm of Allen and Hick- 
man, he also had stores in Fayette and Boonville. In the late 
forties he took a large stock of goods from Independence to old 
Franklin, which is now a part of El Paso, Texas. There he 
established a large store, but later sold all his goods to Santa Fé 
traders and merchants of Chihuahua. He made many other trips 
from Independence to Mexico. In time Mr. Hickman moved from 
Franklin to Chihuahua, Mexico, where he became the leading 
merchant and banker of that city. After living in Chihuahua for 


58 











BENT’S FORT 
From Abert’s ‘‘Journal from Bent’s Fort to St. Louis in 1845.”’ 





1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


to take a final start. Here we pitched our tent for the 
night and I believe for the forty-fifth time. 

Sunday morning after getting the wagons up there 
and encamped, some fifteen miles from the fort, we 
came on ourselves. 

Some four miles below the Fort we passed the sol- 
diers encampment, another novel sight to me, perhaps 
there were fifty or more little tents stretched around 
in a ring with here and there a wagon, and a little 
shade made of tree limbs. The idle soldiers were 
stretched under these, others were out watering horses 
staked about the camp, some were drying clothes in 
the sun &c. &c. 

At the outer edge of the encampment stood a senti- 
nel, who with all the dignity and pomp, though by no 
means a Sampson in statue, of his office shouldered 
his musket marched up, and stoped us with the words 
“where go you”? We gave him our directions, he re- 
ported us to the sergeant at arms, and without farther 
ceremony we were permitted to pass on. In a little 
time we were in sight of the Fort” and soon after, 
were in it. 
nearly a score of years he retired to San Antonio, Texas, where 
he reared his family and died in 1893. He was a very genial man, 
popular in society and quite a beau in his time. His son, James 
Prewitt Hickman, is still a resident of San Antonio. 

21 Bent’s Fort, sometimes called “‘Fort William” in honor of 
William Bent, was an important fur-trading post in Colorado, 
and a base of supplies for the mountain trail to Santa Fé. It 
was begun in 1828, but was not completed until 1832. The fort 


was erected by the Bent brothers, William and Charles, and 
Ceran St. Vrain, a partnership being known as Bent and St. 


59 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL WULY 


And now for something of a description. Well the 
outside exactly fills my idea of an ancient castle. It is 
built of adobes, unburnt brick, and Mexican style so 
far. The walls are very high and very thick with 
rounding corners. There is but one entrance, this is to 
the East rather. 

Inside is a large space some ninety or an hundred 
feet square, all around this and next the wall are 
rooms, some twenty-five in number. They have dirt 
floors—which are sprinkled with water several times 
during the day to prevent dust. Standing in the center 
of some of them is a large wooden post as a firmer 
prop to the ceiling which is made of logs. Some of 
these rooms are occupied by boarders as bed chambers. 
One is a dining-room—another a kitchen—a little 
store, a blacksmith’s shop, a barber’s do an ice house, 
which receives perhaps more customers than any 
other. 

On the South side is an inclosure for stock in dan- 
gerous times and often at night. On one side of the 


Vrain. Built in the form of a rectangle about 100 by 150 feet, open 
in the center, of adobe construction, with walls six feet thick, it 
was absolutely proof against fire from the exterior. Quoting 
from Grinnell (“Bent’s Old Fort and its builders’): “Over the 
main gate of the fort was a square watchtower, surmounted by a 
belfry. The watchtower contained a single room, furnished with 
a chair and a bed, and with windows on all sides. Here mounted 
on a pivot was an old-fashioned long telescope or spyglass; here 
certain members of the garrison relieving each other at stated 
intervals, were constantly on the lookout.” In 1852 the Govern- 
ment attempted to purchase the fort, but William Bent, being dis- 
satisfied with the terms offered, burnt the combustible portions 
and blew up the walls with gunpowder. 


60 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


top wall are rooms built in the same manner as below. 
We are occupying one of these, but of that anon. 

They have a well inside, and fine water it is—espe- 
cially with ice. At present they have quite a number of 
boarders. The traders and soldiers chiefly, with a few 
lofers from the States, come out because they can’t 
live at home. 

There is no place on Earth I believe where man lives 
and gambling in some form or other is not carried on. 
Here in the Fort, and who could have supposed such 
a thing, they have a regularly established billiard 
room! 'They have a regular race track. And I hear the 
cackling of chickens at such a rate some times I shall 
not be surprised to hear of a cock-pit. 

Now for our room; it is quite roomy. Like the 
others it has a dirt floor, which I keep sprinkling con- 
stantly during the day; we have two windows one 
looking out on the plain, the other is on the patio or 
yard. We have our own furniture, such as bed, chairs, 
wash basin, table furniture, and we eat in our own 
room. It is keeping house regularly, but I beg leave 
not to be allowed that privilege much longer. 

They have one large room as a parlor; there are no 
chairs but a cushion next the wall on two sides, so the 
company set all round in a circle. There is no other 
furniture than a table on which stands a bucket of 
water, free to all. Any water that may be left in the 
cup after drinking is unceremoniously tossed onto 
the floor. 

When we came last evening, while they were fixing 
our room, I sat in the parlour with las senoritas [the 

61 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL ‘siey 


ladies], the wife of Mr. George Bent” and some 
others. One of them sat and combed her hair all the 
while notwithstanding the presence of Mr. Lighten- 
doffer,** whose lady (a Mexican) was present. After 
the combing she paid her devoirs to a crock of oil or 
_ greese of some kind, and it is not exaggeration to say 


it almost driped from her hair to the floor. If I had 


22 George Bent was the son of Silas Bent and Martha (Kerr) 
Bent, and brother of the famous Bent brothers, Charles, William, 
and Robert, of Bent’s Fort. He was born in St. Louis April 15, 
1814, In 1841 he married a Mexican lady; two children were born 
of this marriage, a son, Robert, and a daughter. George Bent was 
greatly esteemed, and possessed unbounded influence with the 
various Indian tribes with which he traded for many years. He 
died at Bent’s Fort on the Arkansas, October 23, 1847. 

23 Dr. Eugene Leitensdorfer, his brother, Thomas Leitens- 
dorfer, and his brother-in-law, Norris Colburn, were engaged in 
the Santa Fé trade for a great many years. The style of the firm 
was E. Leitensdorfer and Company, under which name they con- 
ducted a store at Santa Fé. Dr. Leitensdorfer married in Santa 
Fé, December, 1845, Dofia Solidad Abreu, daughter of Santiago 
Abreu, one of the governors of New Mexico. Dr. Leitensdorfer 
traveled to Missouri for supplies in the spring of 1846, returning 
in June of the same year. He was appointed Auditor of Public 
Accounts for the territory of New Mexico by General Kearny in 
September, 1846. 

Thomas Leitensdorfer married, in Carondelet, Missouri, May 
14, 1845, Eliza Michaud. The Leitensdorfer brothers were sons 
of Gerrasio Probasco Santuario, an Italian soldier of fortune, 
who fought in many wars; while a prisoner at Milan he es- 
caped to Switzerland, where to avoid detection he changed his 
name to John Eugene Leitensdorfer. He went to Carondelet, 
Missouri, in 1811, where in 1812 he married Euphrosine Gamache, 
who was the mother of Eugene and Thomas. 


62 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


not seen her at it, I never would have believed it 
greese, but that she had been washing her head. 

We had Cpt. Moore,” of the U. S. dragoons, to call 
this P. M.; he promises me double protection, as an 
American citizen, and as a Kentuckian; he is from 
that noble state himself, and even claims a kinship! 
Both yesterday and this evening we have taken a 
walk up the River, such as we used to take last winter 
in N. Y. from Spring to Wall Street. 

Tuesday 28th. The Detr. has just left and I shall 
endeavour to write a little before dinner. I’ve been 
busy all the morning. Wrote a long letter to Mama, 
which Cpt. Moore says I can send by the Government 
express. The army affords me one convenience in this. 
Though [ cannot hear from home, it is a gratification 
to know that I can send letters to those who will take 
pleasure in reading them. 

Detr. Mesure brought me more medicine, and ad- 
vises mi alma to travel me through Europ. The advice 
is rather better to take than the medicine, anything 


24 Captain Benjamin Davis Moore, born at Paris, Bourbon 
County, Kentucky, September 10, 1810; married Martha M. 
Hughes, daughter of Judge M. M. Hughes, of Platte County, 
Missouri. He was appointed from Illinois, February 2, 1829, a 
midshipman in the United States Naval Academy, and resigned 
January 2, 1832. Entered the army as first lieutenant of Mounted 
Rangers, November 6, 1832; transferred to First Dragoons Sep- 
tember 19, 1833, and promoted to the rank of captain June 15, 
1837. Captain Moore was killed in the battle of San Pasqual, 
California. In the cemetery at Platte City, Missouri, stands a 
monument erected to his memory and that of his brother-in-law, 
Thomas Clark Hammond, who also fell in the battle of San 
Pasqual. 

| 63 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL IJULY 


though to restore my health. I never should have con- 
sented to take the trip on the plains had it not been 
with that view and a hope that it would prove bene- 
ficial; but so far my hopes have been blasted, for I am 
rather going down hill than up, and it is so bad to be 
sick and under a physician all the time. But cease my 
rebellious heart! How prone human nature is to 
grumble and to think his lot harder than any one of 
his fellow creatures, many of whom are an hundred 
times more diseased and poor in earthly assistance 
and still they endure all, and would endure more. 
Had Capt. Waldo,” of the Mo. Volunteers to call 


25 David Waldo, son of Jedediah and Polly (Porter) Waldo, 
was born April 30, 1802, at Clarksburg, Harrison County, Vir- 
ginia. Emigrating to Missouri in 1820 he settled in Gasconade 
County. A few years later he went into the pineries on the Gas- 
conade River and engaged in cutting and hauling pine logs with 
his own hands. He had the same sawed into lumber, and when he 
had accumulated enough to form a raft of considerable size, 
floated it down the Gasconade and into the Missouri to St. Louis, 
where he sold his logs for $500. With this capital he went to 
Lexington, Kentucky, and attended the Medical Department of 
Transylvania University. 

In 1821 he served as sheriff of Gasconade County, Missouri, 
and thereafter filled the offices of clerk of the County Court, 
justice of the peace, acting coroner and county treasurer, re- 
spectively. He also acted as postmaster; held a commission as 
major of militia, and from 1827 was a practicing physician. The 
duties of all these offices he attended to personally and dis- 
charged with ability. The county of Gasconade comprised at that 
time a large territory. On that account it was called by many of 
the inhabitants “State of Gasconade, David Waldo, Governor.” 
Everyone saluted him as Dave. 

Removing to western Missouri in 1831, he formed a partner- 


64 


ae 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


this P. M. Mi alma is paving his way to “protection” 
and polite treatment from all the chief men &c. 

Wednesday 29th. 'The same routine today as yes- 
terday, several gentlemen, among the traders and 
officers called and paid their respects to the “Madam.” 
My health, though not good, is drank by them all, 
and some times a complimentary toast is ingeniously 
slipped in. The Fort is not such a bad place after all. 
There are some good people in and about it as well 
as in other places. I am not very much displeased with 
Col. Kearny for sending us here, but he has arrived 
himself this P. M. and gives the command to leave in 
three days. The idea of getting onto those rough, jolt- 
ing roads, and they say this is rather worse, if any- 
thing, than the one we have passed, is truly sickening. 

I have concluded that the Plains are not very bene- 
ship with David Jackson and embarked in the Santa Fé trade. 
His connection with this trade as merchant, freighter, and mail 
contractor, extended over a period of thirty years. In this busi- 
ness he amassed a fortune and was estimated to be one of the 
wealthy men of western Missouri. 

During the Mexican War he was captain of a company from 
Jackson County, Missouri, attached to Doniphan’s command. 
Being a fine Spanish scholar he translated the laws of the United 
States into Spanish, and what was called the “Kearny Code.” 
He also rendered valuable service in the translation of documents 
captured from the Mexicans by the Americans. Upon his return 
to Independence, he married Miss Eliza Jane, daughter of 
Edward and Margaret (Glasgow) Norris; the wedding taking 
place March 27, 1849. He died in May, 1878, at Independence, 
where he had lived nearly fifty years. “His fine qualities, his keen 
wit in social life in the days before his powers were broken by 
ill health will be remembered by his friends like the sunlight, 
but cannot be easily described.’’ (Waldo manuscripts.) 


65 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL yoLr 


ficial to my health so far; for I am thinner by a good 
many lbs. than when I came out. The dear knows 
what is the cause! 

Thursday July 30th. Well this is my nineteenth 
birthday! And what? Why I feel rather strange, not 
surprised at its coming, nor to think that I am grow- 
ing rather older, for that is the way of the human 
family, but this is it, I am sick! strange sensations in 
my head, my back, and hips. I am obliged to lie down 
most of the time, and when I get up to hold my hand 
over my eyes. 7 

There is the greatest possible noise in the patio 
[yard]. The shoeing of horses, neighing, and braying 
of mules, the crying of children, the scolding and fight- 
ing of men, are all enough to turn my head. And to 
add to the scene, like some of our neighbours we have 
our own private troubles. The servants are all quarrel- 
ing and fighting among themselves, running to us to 
settle their difficulties; they are gambling off their 
cloths till some of them are next to nudity, and though 
each of them are in debt to mz alma for advancement 
of their wages, they are coming to him to get them out 
of their scrapes. 

José, our principal Mexican about the camp, and 
my maid Jane, have had a cat and dog difficulty, he 
says he can’t stand it and she puts on airs, does her 
business when and how she pleases, leaving a part of 
it for me to do, and here we have it, in addition to all 
this the Dctr. comes to tell how his men have treated 
him, therefore we have our own and our neighbours 
trials to encounter. 

66 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


The Fort is crowded to overflowing. Col. Kearny 
has arrived and it seems the world is coming with him. 
Volunteers are under his command now only as he, on 
his arrival dispatched them under Capt. Moore ahead, 
for the purpose of repairing fifteen miles of the road 
called the Raton, a bed of rocks impassable for 
wagons, of which there are a goodly No. to pass. 

Three Indian warriors came in today; they belong 
to a large war party of the Arrapaho Indians who are 
they say some sixty miles off. They are believed by 
the company to be spies, though they come rather with 
the appearance of trading. 

With the intention of awing them a little Mr. Bent 
and others are about taking them down to the soldiers’ 
encampment. They hesitate rather saying they have 
“two hearts on the subject; one of which says go! and 
the other says don’t go”! They are cunning people, 
and no doubt ’twould be a rich treat to hear, on their 
returning to their tribe, their graphic account of the 
American Army “the white faced Warriors.” 

August. 1846. Thursday 6. The mysteries of a new 
world have been shown to me since last Thursday! In 
a few short months I should have been a happy mother 
and made the heart of a father glad, but the ruling 
hand of a mighty Providence has interposed and by 
an abortion deprived us of the hope, the fond hope of 
mortals! But with the affliction he does not leave us 
comfortless ! 

We have permission to “come unto him when our 
burden is grievous and heavy to be borne; we have 
permission to pray for more submission and reliance 

67 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL pury aveust 


on his goodness, and in that petition we have an inter- 
cessor with the Father, Jesus Christ, who himself 
came into the world an infant, after the manner of 
man. 

Friday morning 31st of July. My pains commenced 
and continued till 12 o’c. at night, when after much 
agony and severest of pains, which were relieved a 
little at times by medicine given by Dctr. Mesure, all 
was over. I sunk off into a kind of lethargy, in ma 
alma’s arms. Since that time I have been in my bed 
till yesterday a little while, and a part of today. 

My situation was very different from that of an 
Indian woman in the room below me. She gave birth 
to a fine healthy baby, about the same time, and in half 
an hour after she went to the River and bathed her- 
self and it, and this she has continued each day since. 
Never could I have believed such a thing, if I had 
not been here, and mz alma’s own eyes had not seen 
her coming from the River. And some gentleman here 
tells him, he has often seen them immediately after the 
birth of a child go to the water and break the ice to 
bathe themselves! 

It is truly astonishing to see what customs will do. 
No doubt many ladies in civilized life are ruined by 
too careful treatments during child-birth, for this 
custom of the hethen is not known to be disadvanta- 
geous, but it is a “hethenish custom.” 

In the meantime things have been going on pros- 
perously without, so I have been daily informed by 
my attendants. The troops en mass left about 10 o’c 
Sunday morning, and made rather a grand show, at 

68 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


least in numbers. Till their departure the court yard, 
el patio, was thronged. I was not able to look out, 
but the massive sound that filled my ear the while 
was quite a sufficient criterion to judge by. Although 
it was the Sabbath, necessity compelled them to be 
busily employed. The clang of the blacksmith’s ham- 
mer was constant. The trumpet sounded oft and loud; 
swords rattled in their sheaths, while the tinkling spur 
served as an echo. Ever and anon some military com- 
mand was heard issuing, and doubtless promptly 
answered. 

Though forbidden to rise from my bed, I was free 
to meditate, on the follies and wickedness of man! Of 
a creature formed for nobler and higher purposes, 
sinking himself to the level of beasts, waging warfare 
with his fellow man, even as the dumb brute. And by 
his example teaching nothing good, striving for 
wealth, honour and fame to the ruining of his soul, 
and loosing a brighter crown in higher realms. — — 

All of the Traders followed on after the troops the 
next three days. 

The Fort is quite desolate. Most who are here now 
of the soldiers are sick. Two have died, and have been 
buried in the sand hills, the common fate of man. One 
must have great faith in their Creator, great reliance 
on his goodness, not to feel sad and uneasy to see such 
things passing around them,—their fellow creatures 
snatched off in a moment without warning almost— 
and they are themselves lying on a bed of sickness. It 
requires much prayer for submission, for tranquility, 
&e. 

69 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL AUGUST 


Thursday.— Another Indian has come in—believed 
to be a spy, although he tells that he has been lost from 
his party. He is a warrior well armed with bow and 
arrows—a quiver full. His dress consists of a striped 
blanket wrapped around his body, a string of beads, 
~ and his long hair tied up with a piece of red cloth. We 
are quite weak here now, and a large body of these 
warriors could do us much damage. We only have to 
be particular in closing the Fort gates, and keeping a 
watch. 

And as we think of starting tomorrow evening we 
keep the wagons back for safety, instead of sending 
them on with the troops and other traders, as it is we 
are quite weak enough, and if they were gone ‘twould 
be bad, depriving us of the service of some seventeen 
men! In that case, if danger were near, I should be 
obliged to buckle on my pistols and turn warrior my- 
self, rather a touch above me, at Amazonianism! 

The Detr. thinks I will have to lie down in the car- 
riage, but lest they should need my services I shall be 
obliged to decline the treatment. 

There is a little romance attached to my life: taken 
prisoner, for we were compelled by the soldiers to 
come here, confined in a Fort, and when I left there 
had to fight my own way through blood thirsty In- 
dians, before reaching a place of any safety. 

Friday evening 7th. We are all in a hub-bub—pre- 
paring for another move. 

My dirt-floored chamber, dining-room, parlour, re- 
ception room &c. &c. is quite dessolate, All things of 

70 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


any size have been moved out to the wagons, and I am 
now using borrowed propperty. 

It is quite strange, and indeed a treat to think of 
starting. “The Fort’ is agreeable enough in itself, but 
with it are connected some rather unpleasant reflec- 
tions—something rather sad, though I will not mur- 
mur at the chasten hand of Providence. 

It is just 12 days since we came and eight days 
since I left my room, within that short space of time 
many things have occurred, both to myself and others. 
Many have come and gone; some never to return 
again to this spot, and others never to return into this 
world. 

What a satisfaction would it be to me now, to know 
that I shall be as well prepared to leave this mortal, 
this earthen body as I am to leave this earthen house, 
and with as much anxiety. That I could know that my 
daily prayers were not frowned upon by my God, that 
my Saviour’s blood pleads not in vain, and that a seat 
and white-robe are prepared for me at the foot stool 
of my Heavenly Father. 

If I could feel sure too that my idol is not on earth. 
That loving my dear husband as I do, I am not ex- 
cluding an Image more precious to the soul of mor- 
tals, than all things earthly. Can I venture to ask 
myself who has the largest place here? 

Oh, that there may be no cause for severe judge- 
ment against either of us in this thing! but that the 
deep devotion felt for each other here may be but a 
small type of that felt for our Redeemer above! 

Camp No. 1. Saturday 8th. Second start. Left the 

71 


th 
DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL racauer 


Fort last evening at 6 o’clock, came six miles up the 
River to where we leave it finally. I am now entirely 
out of “The States,” into a new country. The crossing 
of the Arkansas was an event in my life, I have never 
met with before; the separating me from my own dear 
native land. That which I love and honour as truly as 
any whole-souled son or daughter of the fair and 
happy America, (for the U. S. are considered to pos- 
sess that bright name above) ever did. Perhaps I have 
left it for not only the first, but the last time. Maybe 
I am never to behold its bright and sunny landscape, 
its happy people, my countrymen, again. It is better 
always to look on the bright side, and it is certainly 
wiser to rely more fully on the Wisdom and Goodness 
of Providence. 

Camp No. 2.—24 ms. from the Fort. Eighteen 
miles has been our travel today. Quite long for my 
first, and the road is very much changed too; not the 
dead plain we had several days the other side of the 
Fort, but broken with sand hills. The dust is very 
great, and the vegetation so perfectly parched by the 
sun that not a blade of green grass is to be seen. 

A little scrubby bush resembling in some respects 
the current bush of the States, is all that seems able 
to withstand in any way the scorching heat. 

And for the first time I have seen the “Mirages” or 
false-ponds. It is so deceiving to the eye, that the 
thirsty traveler often breaks from his party with 
anxious eyes and heart to gain first the long wished for 
luxury, but ere he reaches the brink it vanishes from 
his sight. The philosophy of the false-ponds is scarcely 

72 | 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


as yet understood. To use the language of my prede- 
cessor, Mr. J. Gregg, from whom I have gained my 
information respecting them, “It has usually been 
attributed to refraction, by which a portion of the 
bordering sky would appear below the horizon; but 
there can be no doubt that they are the effect of re- 
fraction upon a gas emenating from the sub-scorched 
earth and vegetable matter, or it may be that a sur- 
charge of carbonic acid precipitated upon the flats and 
sinks of the plains, by the action of the sun, produces 
them.” 

My life of adventures and sight-seeings is begin- 
ning again. Nothing of importance has occurred as 
yet, save that we were frightened a good deal last 
night by el perro [the dog]. His awful and unearthly 
yells and howling induced us to believe he was pos- 
sessed with rabia. Mz almi got up for his pistol but 
finding the percussion caps were in the carriage, he 
could do nothing but go after them, and now I 
trembled; for if he should be mad (and he was near 
the tent door too) he would at once bite any object 
that approached him. But our fears were soon calmed 
when he came running into the tent wagging his tail, 
and seemed perfectly sane. In a little while though he 
commenced his awful noise again, and to be on the 
“safe side” we called up José and had him tied.—But 
then I could not sleep for he continued his yells all 
night. 

Sunday 9th. Camp No. 3. Mountains are coming 
in sight this morning—we are winding about among 
large stony hills which finally run into mountains, 

13 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL [AUGUST 


two of which appear in the distance; the one of these 
farthest to the north is known to the people adjacent 
as “Sierral de la madre,” the other “Sierra Grande.” 

They appear disconnected to the eye from the dis- 
tance at which they are seen, though they are probably 
_ united by others too small to be seen from the road, 
and at the distance of an hundred miles. 

They are supposed to belong to the great chain that 
stretches along the Pacific through North and South 
America, and known to all geographers as the “Rocky 
Mountains.” | 

This road is very badly supplied with water. From 
our last night’s camp we came only five or six miles 
before stoping to noon it, finding water in this place 
and learning from other traders encamped there that 
we should find no more for some twelve miles at the 
least, we stoped though it was not ten o'clock. Left at 
4o’ck, in the afternoon and travelled on till 8— (ahead 
of the wagons) when we stoped at a difficult pass in an 
arrodeo [arroyo—dry creek], and waited for the 
Detr. and the wagons; the former soon came up, and 
the moon rising soon after we passed trusting them 
to their drivers entirely. 

At 10 o’ck we came upon some two or three camps, 
and at a very ugly place in the road: here was water, 
though no grass, and we stoped for the night. 

Camp No. 4. “Hole in the Rock” Rather a place 
of some celebrity our camp is in tonight. 

I have not yet visited the “great well” and there- 
fore cannot describe it according as presented to my 
own vision, but from what others say it is a large “hole 

74 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


in a rock” filled with clear, cold water, and to which a 
bottom has never as yet been found. Tomorrow, how- 
ever, I hope to be able to visit and if I find it different 
from what I have already said, I will mention it. 

We have not traveled since 1 o’k today. As there is 
no water within fifteen miles it was thought rather 
wiser to remain here all night where there is an abun- 
dance of water and better grass for the stock than 
they have had for some two or three nights, than to 
go on perhaps all night before reaching the water and 
that too without the light of the moon, or stop on the 
plains without water and in the morning to find half 
of the oxen missing—Dctr. Mesure this P. M. pre- 
sented me with two nice hares, quite a treat, although 
we have a fine antelope, killed by our baggage wagon 
driver Sendevel, to live on for a day or two yet. 

Camp No. 5. The Great Well, alias “Hole in the 
Rock.” We have not moved from our old camping 
ground today. The cattle during the last night took it 
into their heads to take “French leave” of us and this 
morning we are left to pull the wagons ourselves if 
we will start. 

Several men after searching all day found 34 of 
them some fifteen miles from camp, the others were 
only a short distance off. 

So we have lain here in the hot sun with the tent 
windows raised, and eating roast-hare and drinking 
wine for dinner. In brevity we are quite patient under 
the circumstances. 

Every body is ahead of us and we have the whole 

795 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL [AUGUST 


road to ourselves; even the polite French dctr. has 
left us! 

Took a walk this P. M. through the pinon woods 
adjacent &c. This tree which is a specie of pine, has 
gained celebrity from the little nut it bears. It is about 
the size of a kidney bean, grows in the pine trees here, 
and has a sweet, rich, oily taste. The Indians, in the 
Fall of the year, gather large quantities of them, 
which are quite saleable among their more civilized 
neighbours. 

The tree itself is quite indifferent in appearance, 
the trunk is scrubby and the leaves short and coarse; 
this may be attributed though in part to the barren 
soil and the almost continual drought in this part of 
the country. 

It is quite abundant in turpentine, which is per- 
fectly pure. And I have picked up under the trees 
balls of rezin the size of a hen’s [egg] made by the 
heat of the sun on the turpentine that drops from the 
tree. 

The Hole in the Rock I found pretty much the 
same as described: the scenery around it is quite ro- 
mantic—high rocks covered with cedar trees; shelving 
and craggy precipices; pearly brooks, and green 
groves, through which are seen bounding the stately 
antelope and timid hare; while the ear is greeted by 
the soft warble of feathered songsters. It is quite the 
place in which to build a lover’s castle and plant his 
gardens &c. | 

Thursday 13th. Purgatoire River.” Camp No. 6. 


7° Rio Purgatoire, “River of the souls in Purgatory,” corrupted 


76 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


Weare still lying at the Camp of last night, repairing 
wagons. Y esterday we made a fine travel some twenty- 
five miles or more. Left in the morning after 9 o’clock 
traveled till 4 o’ck. fifteen miles to water. Here we 
stoped till 614 o’ck letting the Oxen drink what little 
water they could find in the little creek, and eat a few 
blades of grass—we ourselves took dinner. 

About Sun set we started again. The night was 
excessively dark owing to heavy clouds obscuring the 
Moon. A slight sprinkle of rain, the first we have had 
for three weeks, refreshed the air very much and laid 
the dust which had been almost suffocating us during 
the whole day. 

Several times we drove out of the road, being un- 
able to distinguish it in the dark. At the last mi alma 
got out and walked, and I may say almost felt the 
way. Once we came to a steep little hill and I got out 
and walked. Often have I done this though, gotten 
out of the carriage at mid night and walked down such 
places. | 

It now grew somewhat lighter and we stoped at this 
place for the wagons to come up. 

The road on to this place is fine, and by 1214 o’k, we 
reached it. Here we find one or two camps. So al- 


by the soldiers into “Picket wire.”” The Mexicans had two names 
for the river—Rio Purgatorio and Rio de las Animas. It is a 
stream of considerable size, heading near the New Mexico state 
boundary and flowing northeast, across Las Animas and corners 
of Otero and Bent counties, Colorado. Long states that “‘we 
emerged from the gloomy solitude of its valley, with a feeling 
somewhat akin to that which attends escape from a place of 
punishment.” 


Te 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL ACeUee 


though we layed by a whole day our night’s travel has 
made us equal with the others. 

Though this stream has rather an awing name it 
wears a clear smooth face at present. I can’t say that 
it is very appropriate at present, though it may be in 
stormy weather. Its banks like the Arkansas are 
covered with cotton-wood and some such under- 
growth. Wrote a long letter to Sister Anna.” 

Thursday Night. Camp No. 7. Left Camp this 
afternoon early. Came to camp again at Sun Set, and 
just at the entrance of what is called the “Raton,” a 
difficult pass of fifteen miles through the Mountains. 

Our tent is stretched on the top of a high hill, at the 
foot and on the sides of which I have been rambling 
accompanied by our faithful Ring, who all the while 
kept strict watch for Indians, bear, panther, wolves 
&c., and would not even leave my side as if conscious 
I had no other protector at hand. 

Friday 14th. Camp No. 8. It is surrounded by most — 
magnificent scenery. On all sides are stupendous 
mountains, forming an entire breast-work to our little 
camp situated in the valley below. To the South is 
what may be considered “the pinacle” of the Moun- 
tains, a great rock towering above every thing around. 
This, mt alma, calls the “wagon mound” from its re- 
semblance to one of the same kind on the old road to 
Santa Fé and which derives its name from its re- 
semblance to the top of a covered wagon. 

*7 Anna N. Shelby, daughter of Isaac Shelby, Jr., born August 
5, 1818; married in April, 1840, Beriah Magoffin; died in Lexing- 
ton, Kentucky, August 7, 1880. 

78 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


The trees here are assuming a different appearance. 
Though the pinon is still abundant it is being sup- 
planted by a much taller and more sightly pine. It is 
very much the shape and appearance of those found 
in the U.S. 

A. kind of wild cherry is quite abundant too. It 
grows on small bushes resembling in the leaf and bark 
the common domestic cherry tree; the fruit is small, 
and when ripe is quite black; and though sweet to the 
taste at first, it is quite as rough as persimons. 

We have been rather unfortunate today—a wagon 
was turned over this morning, and the bed and bows 
so much broken as to cause a delay of some hours to 
repair it sufficiently to travel on. “The Raton” is not 
the best place to keep such articles new; almost every 
fifty or an hundred yards there are large stones, or 
steep little hillocks, just the things to bounce a wagon 
wheels’ up, unless there is the most careful driving. 

And as for myself, I have been walking till I am 
covered with dust till instead of being black any 
longer, I am brown changing back to white again. If 
exercise will do me any good I must surely be bene- 
fited now. Many a one of these long hills do I walk up 
and down, beside rambling through the bushes, along 
the banks of the little streams &c. in search of “what I 
can find.” Some times this is a curious little pebble, a 
shell, a new flower, or the quill of a strange bird. 

Saturday 15. Camp No. 9. Still in the Raton, 
traveling on at the rate of half mile an hour, with the 
road growing worse and worse. I have scarcely ven- 
tured in the carriage this morning; but have “climed 

19 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL tauauer 


the hills’ not on my own feet as I did yesterday, but 
on the back of my caballo [my horse]. Horse back 
exercise is my delight, and of the riding today I shall 
not complain, though the sun was very warm. 

We have an abundance of game, fine turkies, one of 
which we had roasted for dinner today, prairie 
chickens, hares, and they say we are to have bear 
meat soon. Three were seen this morning by the team- 
sters, and we passed in el camino [the road] the car- 
cass of one seeming to have been killed yesterday. I 
must look sharp when I ramble about through these 
woods, or I will get myself into a nice hugging scrape 
with Mr. Bruen. I came very near seeing one this 
P. M. any how, and set the Mexican boys about the 
carriage to look out; it changed itself into an ox. 

Worse and worse the road! They are even taking the 
mules from the carriages this P. M. and a half dozen 
men by bodily exertions are pulling them down the 
hills. And it takes a dozen men to steady a wagon with 
all its wheels locked—and for one who is some dis- 
tance off to hear the crash it makes over the stones, 
is truly alarming. Till I rode ahead and understood 
the business, I supposed that every wagon had fallen 
over a precipice. We came to camp about half an 
hour after dusk, having accomplished the great travel 
of six or eight hundred yards during the day. 

Sunday 16th In our great travel of yesterday, more 
than one wagon became lame beside the breaking of 
the catrin [carreton—little carriage] tongue—this 
morning we must lay by to repair those evils. 

Such a ramble I have had this morning! Up to the 

80 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


very top of a high hill, the sides of which are not the 
smoothest I ever climbed. Mi alma went off to take 
his pleasure in some way, and left me alone. So accom- 
panied by Jane who rather doubted my ability to 
ascend at first, and Ring who appeared surprised, it 
was poco poco, and when I had gotten to a great rock, 
which from the ground below I had considered as the 
ending of my Herculean labour, I found I must 
ascend at least half as far again before reaching the 
top.—Not daunted, though the disappointment of not 
being able to stand on the top of this hugh stone, was 
some thing we passed on without hesitation to the very 
top of the Mountain and once there, what a mag- 
nificent view I had! Behold to my right as I stood 
facing the South—that beautiful canon winding 
(through) between mountains so high, that it was 
quite impossible though near to them, to distinguish 
one single tree on the top of it.—In that wild glen is 
he, who of all else on earth is most dear to me, winding 
his way through trees and small undergrowth, leaping 
ever and anon, over the little arolla [| arroyo—dry 
creek | that winds through it in search of game for 
our fare. 

To my left are high mountains, thickly covered with 
great white rocks the foundations of the lofty pine 
that majestically waves its hundred arms above them. 
In the valley beneath me is situated the little “village 
of M” [ Mora |—a thriving, with its nice little cottages 
and court house in the center. Contentment, ease and 
peace are apparently inmates of this spot. Off in that 
mountain meadow is an extensive herd of cattle graz- 

81 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL rapaeet 


ing at their leisure, and anon cooling themselves at 
the little stream near them. Would I exchange this 
home for any I ever saw? There are dear friends be- 
hind me, and those too, who, if mortals are capable of 
making by their presence and goodness, a spot on earth 
happy, any place would be so with them, but there are 
ties here as strong, a link that binds me to this spot 
till it is removed may I never leave it. 

Left camp at 1 o’k after pulling up and down more 
than one steep hill, at some of which the carriages were 
pulled down by the men. We came to camp again at 
Sun set. 

Monday 17th. Camp No, 11. A most beautiful 
morning this has been—fine for the animals, cool and 
pleasant and we have traveled well considering it is 
in “The Raton.” 

Before we left camp some two hours, one of the 
traders Mr. Howk” of Boonvillfe], Mo. came up 


with his wagons and passed us, leaving us knocking 


28 Solomon Houck was a resident of Boonville, Missouri, for 
many years. He was an old Santa Fé trader. In the spring of 
1846 he made the trip from Santa Fé to Independence, Missouri, 
in the remarkable time of twenty days, arriving at Independence 
in the month of June. There he remained just long enough to 
purchase supplies for another expedition, retracing his trail in 
less than a month. 

While encamped with Doniphan’s command on the Rio Grande, 
at the entrance to the first Jornada below E] Paso, nearly all of 
his cattle were driven off by the Apache, almost in sight of the 
Army. He and his men pursued the Indians and succeeded in 
recapturing most of the animals. Houck killed an Indian and 
brought back his scalp on a lance. 

Mr. Houck owned a large tract of land in Boonville, known as 


82 


1846]. DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


at wagons and making as much fuss as if it had been 
a regular ship-yard. We were of course pitied on 
account of our misfortune, but we were destined not 
to be alone in it long, for on starting not more than 
two miles from our camp, we found him at the foot of 
a little hill with a corral formed, his oxen turned out, 
a wagon upset and all the bales on the ground. We 
could only follow his example of the morning, pitty 
him and pass on. 

We have had some magnificent scenes before us 
this P. M. From the greatest hight to which I have yet 
ascended on horse-back, mountains far more lofty 
than any I’ve seen, deep vallies below that looked blue 
so great was the distance to them; the clouds seemed 
resting on the mountains around us. Oh, for the genius 
of an artist that I might pencil such scenes otherwise 
than in my memory, or the fancy of a Willis” that I 
might trace with this pen a more lively and correct 
sketch of some of nature’s grandest and most striking 
works. 

Tuesday 18th. We are detained in camp this morn- 
“Houck’s Addition,’ which extended over a number of city 
blocks. Some of the main buildings of Kemper Military School 
now occupy this site. His home was the finest in the town. He was 
a very tall man, reserved in manner, and indifferent to social 
life. When thoroughly aroused he was a rough antagonist. 

29 Nathaniel Parker Willis was a popular writer of the day, 
of whose work Thackeray said: “The prose and poetry of Mr. 
Willis are alike distinguished for exquisite finish and melody. 

. Many of his descriptions of natural scenery are written 
pictures, and no other American author has represented with 
equal vivacity and truth the manners of the age.” (Appleton’s 
Cyclopedia of American Biography, vol. 6, p. 14.) 

83 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL Lapeonn 


ing by a gentle rain which commenced last evening. 
The road immediately before us is worse than any we 
have as yet passed, and it is folly to attempt the cross- 
ing of these steep hills when they are made slippy by 
a whole night’s rain. 

An other company of soldiers has come up today 
and an express too from Gen. Kearny now about 
entering Santa Fé. The news he brings is not less 
favourable than we have formerly received. 

A negotiation is being carried on between the two 
Generals through brother James, who has the con- 
fidence of the Mexican Gen. so completely, we may 
look for pleasant results, and if any thing should go 
wrong we will be rather the first to receive a warning 
if it is necessary to remain from Santa Fé, and though 
we are behind now, if it is necessary to return to the 
U. S., we will be first. 

P. M. Here we are still, they have concluded to have 
some repairs done to the road before proceeding, as 
it is almost impassable, so we will not leave till morn- 
ing. And I have been up on to the top of an other high 
mountain. I shall be quite an experienced climber 
when we leave the Raton it has been my daily exercise 
since we entered the mountains and I shall miss it 
when we reach the plains again. 

W ednesday 18th. Camp 13. Rio Colorado. Out of 
the Raton at last, can it be possible! We have been in 
it five days, and it seemed that we were never to leave 
it. This morning the pulling has been worse than ever; 
some very steep, long, rocky hills, but we passed them 
without an accident save the breaking of some two or 

| 84 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


three wagon bows—this cannot be considered an acci- 
dent though—they caught in the trees that reached 
their giant arms across the road seemingly with that 
intention. 

We leave behind us Mr. Howk, and the government 
wagons. I only wish them our good fortune. 

And we may now bid good bye to any game; that 
is one redeeming quality of the Raton—the furnish- 
ing us with wild meat. I left it tho’ without seeing wn 
oso [a bear], (one horse) though they were several 
times reported by the wagoners as frequenting the 
little cafons near us.—We have had fine clear, cool 
water too, and slightly impregnated with sulphur, not 
a very disagreeable quality to me. 

And I must also dispense with my horseback exer- 
cise in some measure. Though it is fine in the moun- 
tains, I cannot say the same on the scorching plains. 
I am quite sorry for it too, I enjoy it so much. 

Quite cool today for August, more the appearance 
of October. 

Thursday 20th. Noon. Out on the open Prairie 
again, but with rather more variety than before. We 
are surrounded, in the distance, by picturesque moun- 
tains, a relief to the eye when one is accustomed to 
behold nothing save the wide plain stretched far on all 
sides meeting the edges of the bright blue sky and ap- 
pearing more like water than land. 

We left camp this morning at 7 o’clock crossed 
“Red River,” a picturesque little stream winding its 
way from the mountains, to the great Arkansas, of 
which it is generally termed the “Canadian Fork.” 

85 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL AUGUST 


The water is fine, clear and cool, as mountain 
streams always are. The banks have some thing of an 
“Ash creek” appearance, a good place to upset a 
carriage, and as this did not correspond with my feel- 
ing, I left the little catrin, which I have this morning 
taken instead of mi caballo, and mounting the stump 
of a tree called mz alma to my assistance; he most 
kindly came and took me up on his horse behind him 
and with little difficulty I was landed on this side of 
Rio Colorado. 3 | 

Camp P. M. Oh, the everlasting tongue of that boy 
Comapu! He is eternally singing, even when he is 
driving la carratela [carriage | over the worst kind of 
stony, hilly, and muddy roads. But it shows a happy 
disposition, such as every one has not, and therefore 
I shall not complain of him, tho’ it annoys me much, 

Had something of a fright this evening, from the 
tongue of the carriage, while descending a hill, coming 
out and letting the vehicle fall so much on the mules 
as to start them prancing and capering till our lives 
were really in jeopardy. 

Friday 21st. A very cool morning—and last night 
was so cold we found two pair of blankets and a thick 
coverlid quite acceptable. There has surely been a hail 
storm some place, my thick shawl is scarcely as warm 
as I would like it. 

Camp No. 15. Poni creek, Here I am both Madam 
& Mr. of the whole concern. The recent rains have 
made the banks of the creek, which are naturally steep, 
quite slippy, and renders it quite necessary that much 
care be taken or a wagon may be turned over, (the 

86 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


teams are doubled) therefore mi alma after seeing 
half of them over, placed me on my horse, mounted his 
own without saddle or bridle only a halter on his neck, 
and in this manner we crossed what may be termed 
the second crossing (the first I passed on foot with 
stepping stones—for the creek is crossed twice in 
preferance to one place worse than these two together 
perhaps. On this side we were on landing met by Lieu- 
tenant Warner” of the U. S. Malitia, who greeted us 
with a kind smile notwithstanding he has been well 
drenched in the cold drizzling rain of this P. M. Don 
Manuel [Samuel Magoffin] now left me to attend to 
affairs and returned to see the other wagons over cross- 
ing No. 1.—So now I had nothing to do but act out 
the part alloted to me, and after exchanging a few 
words with Lieu. W. I rode on and with as much dig- 
nity as I am capable of commanding, which upon a 
pinch is not a little in my own opinion, selected a 
camping ground, and ordered the Mexican servants 
about in broken Spanish. Now that they are all at 
work I seize a few minutes to write a letter. 

It is quite winterish this evening, with a little ugly 
rain falling to make it still more gloomy. 

In the distance we see a tall mountain whose high 


3° William Horace Warner, born in New York in 1812, and 
appointed from that state to the United States Military Academy, 
July 1, 1831. Commissioned second lieutenant of First Artillery 
July 1, 1836, and later assigned to Topographical Engineers. 
- Brevetted captain December 6, 1846, for gallant and meritorious 
conduct in California. Captain Warner was killed, September 26, 
1849, by hostile Indians in the Sierra Nevada, nine arrows having 
pierced his body. 


87 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL raveueT 


crown is white apparently with snow, both to the 
naked eye and with the glass; this supposition has been 
confirmed by one of the Mexicans, who appears to 
know all about it. If ’tis true I have seen snow in 
August. One of the warmest and most oppressive 
months of the year, in the States; and the idea of snow 
there now is absurd in the extreme; and I am sure to 
tell it there, when they are all suffocating they think 
with sultry heat, would make the good folks rather 
doubtful of the person’s veracity next time. 

Saturday 22nd. Noon at the Rayada Creek. 'This 
little creek is a river today; the rain has been quite 
heavy here, if we may take this as our guide. It is very 
much warmer too today, and like the rattle snakes 
after a thunder-storm, we are creeping out in the sun, 
which to speak the truth is not a bad plan. I don’t © 
know that I should have left it so soon either for the 
carriage, had not the wind driven me. Wrote a long 
letter to Sister Litty™ this evening. 

Sunday 23rd. Ocate Creek. Camp No, 17. We are 
getting in among the hills, pigmy Mountains, again. 
Our camp last night was at the foot of one, which I 
ascended. At the top I found a thicket of pine trees, 
and fearing lest a hungry bruen might be lurking in 
them, or a tiger cat—rather the worst of the two when 
one comes to fighting with them, for while Mr. Bruen 
will squeeze you gently till all breath has left you, the 
other will scratch and bite and tear with his long 

°* Maria Laetitia Shelby, fourth daughter of Isaac Shelby, 


Jr., born September 9, 1829; married James Lawrence Dallam, 
November 20, 1856. 


88 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


talons till death comes to relieve the sufferer. I did 
not dare venture farther, but returned to camp. 

This morning I have rode some on horse back—the 
road has been rough and I found it rather more agree- 
able than the carriage. Mi alma drives today, getting 
into the settlements has inspired one of our drivers— 
Sandevel—with new love for his padre, madre y 
mujer [ father, mother, and wife]; so last night he pe- 
titioned to go ahead to see them, and will meet us at 
the road, the junta [junction], a place where this and 
the Cimerrone road joins and the waters of some two 
or three arollas [ arroyos—streams ]. 

Monday 24th. Camp No. 18. Olla [Ojo] de Gal- 
linas 'Travelled late tonight and it has been so dark 
too, it was almost necessary to feel our way—with mi 
alma’s careful driving though, I felt little fear. 

How cheering it is to one when groping their way 
in the dark, over roads and through countries he knew 
nothing about, all bewildered, and not knowing 
whether he is about pitching over a precipice, or driv- 
ing into some deep ravine, hole &c., to have the light 
of the camp fires of those ahead of them, to break 
suddenly before the eye. It is like drink to a thirsty 
traveller, or a straw to a drowning man. It gives him 
new courage; suddenly his path way is opened to his 
understanding (not exactly the eye) and he pursues 
his way with a light heart, and rejoicing. 

We are surely getting close to the settlements, as 
an evidence of this we were met this evening by three 
rancheros, with their aguardiente,” quesos, y pan 


*? Aguardiente—a brandy of very great strength, obtained 
from the bulb or root of the maguay or agave Meaicana. This was 


89 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL rADQUBT 


[whiskey, cheese, and bread], to sell: They are like 
the huxter-women after a steamboat. 

Though we had no wood to cook with, and must 
necessarily go without food till some time tomorrow, 
it was rather preferable to their pan, which they sell. 
It is made of wheat, and very hard, consequently cal- 
culated to keep well. Their cheese is clabber and made 
on the same principal as the Dutch smerecase, though 
very tough, mean looking, and to me unpalitable. 

Tuesday 25th. Noon. “Mora creek and settlement. 
And such settlements they are—Here is a little 
hovel, a fit match for some of the genteel pig stys in 
the States—it is made of mud, and surrounded by a 
kind of fence made of sticks; this is the casa grande 
[big house]. Its neighbours are smaller, far more in- 
ferior, and to them I have no comparison. They are 
inhabited by rancheros as they are called, who attend. 


33 


the common drink throughout that country. The process of manu- 
facture is unique, and is, therefore, given as follows: “A hole 
is first dug some ten or twelve feet in diameter, and about three 
feet deep, and lined with stones. Upon this a fire is built and kept 
up until the stones are thoroughly heated. A layer of moist grass 
is then thrown upon the stones, and on this are piled the bulbs of 
the maguay, which vary in size from one’s hand to a half a 
bushel measure, resembling huge onions. These are again covered 
with a thicker layer of grass; and the whole is allowed to remain 
until they are thoroughly baked. They are then removed to large 
leathern bags, and water is poured on them to produce fermenta- 
tion. At the end of a week the bags are emptied of the maguay 
and its liquor, which, after undergoing the process of distillation, 
is ready for use.” (Bartlett, Personal narrative of explorations 
and incidents in Texas, New Mexico, California, Sonora and 
Chihuahua, vol. I, p. 290.) 


90 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


solely to raising of vacas [cattle]. Their food consists 
of a little cheese made of thin milk, a little pan de mais 
[corn bread ]—and such little fruits & nuts as they 
can collect in the mountains. 

We have sent to all of these ranchos, if possible we 
may be so fortunate as find dos or tres huevas o un 
pollo, pero no nade [two or three eggs or a chicken, 
but nothing else]. Such things are seldom seen or 
heard of here nor any thing else I suspect palitable. 
But they say my opinion is formed too hastily, for 
within these places of apparent misery there dwells 
that “peace of mind” and contentment which princes 
and kings have oft desired but never found! 

Camp. We only crossed the creek this evening— 
the crossing is exceedingly difficult, we had the hounds 
_of a wagon broken, which must be mended, and there- 
fore necessity compelled us to remain here. 

I rode over on horse back while mi alma had the 
mules taken from the carriage and had it brought 
down the almost perpendicular bank, by the man. 

Wednesday 26th. A day of wonders not seen by 
every one. Well, what wonders I have to write to- 
night! my brain is so full I don’t know where to find a 
commencement, and if I do begin, how shall I be able 
to end? We have passed “the Vegas” and encamped 
on this side some three or four miles, with Mr. Houk 
and the soldiers, our own wagons being some distance 
behind. We left them this morning to come on by 
themselves, as we are “going in” sooner than they. 

Well now for my Vegas story—We got in there 
about 2 o’k. P. M., and dinner was called for, and 

91 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL FADGUEE 


while they were preparing it let me take a look around 
at the premises. We drove down a long hill at the foot 
of which runs a beautiful clear stream, tempting one 
whether thirsty, or not to moisten his lips with its cool 
waters. This circles almost entirely the village of 
Vegas; crossing it we came immediately in contact 
with the dwelling houses, pig sties, corn cribs &c. 

Here the carriage stoped, and while José, our 
driver, went in to procure us some little delicacy to 
eat, I am sure mi alma could have made money enough 
to buy out the whole village, not that his absence was 
very long, but from the excitement to see his wife a 
“monkey show” in the States never did a better busi- 
ness than he could have done, if he had set me up at 
even dos or tres reals [two or three reals; 1.e., 10 or 
15 cents] on sight. My veil was ingenuously drawn 
down, not only for the better protection of my face 
from the wind and constant stare of “the natives,’ but 
also afforded me a screen from whence to beholding 
my schrutinizing spectators, and while I carried on a 
conversation with Mr. Houk on the outside respecting 
them. 'There were some two or three dozen of children 
(both sexes) from the infant in the arm up standing 
around, so thick ’twas hard for any one to pass; none 
were wholly clad, and some of the little ones in a 
perfect state of nudity; eyes were opened to their 
fullest extent, mouths gaped, tongues clattered, and 
I could only bite my lips and almost swallow my 
tongue to restrain my laughter. 

Mr. H. and mi alma were unable to do this, for the 
idea of my being such an object of curiosity was in- 

92 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


ducement enough, without seeing the condition of 
those around them, to provoke the laughter of the 
most sober heads. When we got out of this place and 
into “the room” which was pretty much like the “big 
room’ at the Fort, not only the children, but mujeres 
[women] and hombres [men] swarmed around’ me 
like bees. The women were clad in camisas [chemises | 
and petticoats only; oh, yes, and their far famed 
“rabosas.”** 'The latter made of some Mexican woven 
cotton, mostly blue, the two former of cotton, & red 
flannel. All took a look, and a seat, half of them on the 
floor, some I talked with as far as my Spanish knowl- 
edge extended; some of them had their babies under 
their rabosas. I shant say at what business. I may 
venture this much though that the little things were 
taking care of No. 1. When all that were in were 
seated, out came the little cigarritas,”* and the general 
smoking commenced. 

After this some signs of our dinner made its ap- 
pearance. The old man came in with a blanket which 
he spread on a little table placed before me, on this 

88 The rebozo was worn by all classes at all times. It was a 
long scarf, about half a yard wide and three or four yards long, 
fringed at the ends. It was usually thrown over the shoulders 
and the ends dangled below the waist. It served the purpose of 
bonnet, shawl, apron, veil, and bodice. Under no circumstances 
was it laid aside while the owner was awake, being used dexter- 
ously even while working or cooking. It never got in the way of 
any occupation. 

84 Every Mexican, male and female, carried at the girdle a 
pouch containing a bundle of hojas (covering of the ear of Indian 
corn, cut into oblong pieces about three inches in length and one 
inch in width), and a small bottle of powdered tobacco. 


93 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL aveusE 


he spread a clean white cloth, and I thought I was 
about to have a fine dinner, but woe to me then, for 
on the top of this he put on an other cloth so black 
with dirt and greese that it resembled more the com- 
mon brown, than white sheeting, of which it was really 
made. 

And then the dinner half a dozen tortillas [ pan- 
cakes | made of blue corn, and not a plate, but rapped 
in a napkin twin brother to the last table cloth. Oh, 
how my heart sickened, to say nothing of my stomach, 
a cheese and, the kind we saw yesterday from the 
Mora, entirely speckled over, and two earthen jollas 
[ollas—jugs| of a mixture of meat, chilly verde 
[green pepper] & onions boiled together completed 
course No. 1. We had neither knives, forks or spoons, 
but made as good substitutes as we could by doubling 
a piece of tortilla, at every mouthful—but by the by 
there were few mouthfuls taken, for I could not eat 
a dish so strong, and unaccustomed to my palate. Mi 
alma now called for something else, and they brought 
us some roasted corn rolled in a napkin rather cleaner 
than the first & I relished it a little more than the 
sopa [soup |; this and a fried egg completed my meal. 

As soon after as possible we made our way to the 
carriage, followed by the whole crowd of men, women, 
children and dogs. In a little time we were clearly 
hid from their view by the surrounding mountains, 
through which our road wound, and joy beat in my 
heart, to think that once more I was at liberty to 
breath the pure air of the prairie, and to sit alone in 

94 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


my little tent, unmolested by the constant stare of 
these wild looking strangers! 

Thursday 27. Near San Miguel. We have passed 
through some two or three little settlements today 
similar to the Vegas, and I am glad to think that much 
is accomplished of my task. It is truly shocking to my 
modesty to pass such places with gentlemen. 

The women slap about with their arms and necks 
bare, perhaps their bosoms exposed (and they are 
none of the prettiest or whitest) if they are about to 
cross the little creek that is near all the villages, re- 
gardless of those about them, they pull their dresses, 
which in the first place but little more than cover their 
calves—up above their knees and paddle through the 
water like ducks, sloshing and spattering every thing 
about them. Some of them wear leather shoes, from 
the States, but most have buckskin mockersins, Indian 
style. 

And it is repulsive to see the children running about 
perfectly naked, or if they have on a chimese it is in 
such ribbands it had better be off at once. I am con- 
strained to keep my veil drawn closely over my face 
all the time to protect my blushes. 

We nooned it today at the ojo de Bunal [Bernal]. 
Had fine fried chicken, corn and bean soup for 
dinner, not a disagreeable dinner that, and especially 
when compared with the one of yesterday. 

Tonight our camp is among the pine trees at the 
foot of a mountain, with no other camp near us. 

Sent today by the first express that has returned, 
letters to Sisters Anna and Lettitia. 

95 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL LAUGUBT 


The news from Santa Fé is that A[r]mijo” has 
fled, and Gen. Kearny, who is in possession of his 
house, is fortifying the city—so we may just fix our- 
selves there for the winter. 

Friday 28th. This has been rather a more agreeable 
day than yesterday, though we met with a little acci- 


°° In spite of his various ranks of dignity, both as soldier and 
statesman, Manuel Armijo was by habit and training essentially 
a merchant and trader. His peculiar cunning in this field of action 
gave him the position and power to gain ascendancy in politics 
and in the ranks of the Mexican Army. From all accounts of him, 
the methods he adopted in business were decidedly dishonest. His 
career began with petty larcenies, and while still a youth his 
business of stealing sheep grew into large proportions. He was 
born and raised at or near Albuquerque, his parents being persons 
of bad repute. A large plantation owner in that neighborhood, 
by the name of Chavez, conducted a business of purchasing sheep 
from his poor neighbors at very reduced prices, and he collected 
so many herds that he could not get time to mark them. He had 
no means of recognizing his own sheep, simply kept them in the 
charge of shepherds, who were supposed to watch the sheep and 
prevent their being lost, by straying, or theft. Armijo adopted 
the method of stealing these sheep while the shepherds were 
asleep, and of bribing the wakeful ones, so that he accumulated 
considerable property. In due time he would sell the stolen 
property back to Chavez, who thus paid for his own property 
over and over again. With these ill-gotten gains and considerable 
luck in gambling, he managed to build up quite a fortune. Later 
he launched into the trade along the Santa Fé trail, purchasing 
his goods in the East, or in St. Louis, and starting, as the others 
did, from Independence. 

It appears that while Governor of New Mexico, and while the 
Mexican War was in progress, Armijo had a train of goods, con- 
sisting mostly of ammunition, in command of Speyers, which 
arrived at Santa Fé June 24, 1846. Speyers brought the informa- 


96 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


dent this morning. At the little creek the other side 
of San Miguel the carriage tongue broke entirely out, 
and we were in rather a critical situation as to trav- 
elling, till Lieu. Warner came up with his wagons, 
and we got two carpenters he had with him to make a 
new tongue. ‘I’his required some two hours’ time, and 


tion that American troops were approaching and Armijo sold his 
interest to Speyers. Captain Waldo had reported to General 
Kearny that “Governor Armijo has about $70,000 worth of 
goods near the head of the Cimarron that left Independence 
about a fortnight since.” 

Armijo’s first accomplishment in politics was his appointment 
as collector of customs at Santa Fé. He later became lieutenant- 
governor, and then, following the assassination of Governor 
Perez, was made governor, which office he retained, excepting a 
short interval, until the American invasion. In these official capaci- 
ties he became commander of the troops. He ruled as a despot, 
and was a man of cruel nature and oppressive both to foreigners 
and to his own people. 

While Governor Armijo left the way open for Kearny to enter 
Santa Fé, he had previously filled the minds of his people with 
hatred and dread of the Americans; telling them that the United 
States intended to rob their churches, desecrate their altars, and 
visit every kind of oppression upon them. Colonel James Magoffin 
seems to have been able to dispel this falsehood and reconcile 
the people to a change in government. 

After the war, General Armijo was tried at the city of Mexico 
for cowardice and desertion in the face of the enemy. Witnesses 
were brought from New Mexico, but the trial resulted in his 
acquittal. An English traveler named Ruxton, in his book, Ad- 
ventures in Mexico, p. 118, speaks of meeting Armijo on his way 
north from the city of. Mexico, the year following Armijo’s flight 
from Santa Fé, as follows: “I stopped and had a long chat with 
Armijo, who, a mountain of fat, rolled out of his American ‘dear- 
born’ and inquired the price of cotton goods in Durango, he 


97 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL AveEeE 


as usual the villagers collected to see the curiosity, and 
I did think the Mexicans were as void of refinement, 
judgement &c. as the dumb animals till I heard one of 
them say “bonita muchachita’ [pretty little girl]! 
And now I have reason and certainly a good one for 
changing my opinion; they are certainly a very quick 
and intelligent people. Many of the mujeres came to 
the carriage shook hands and talked with me. One of 
them brought some tortillas, new goat’s milk and 
stewed kid’s meat with onions, and I found it much 
more palitable than “the dinner at the Vegas.” They 
are decidedly polite, easy in their manners, perfectly 
free &c. 

The village of San Miguel is both larger and 
cleaner than any we have passed; it has a church, and 
public square, neither of which are in the others. 

Nooned it on this side some three or four miles. 

The road this P. M. has obliged me to ride on horse- 
back again, and I find it quite as agreeable as when in 
the Raton. The pure air of the Santa Fé mountains 
is doing me great good. I love dearly to spend half an 
hour or an hour in rambling over and among them in 
the evening when we stop, and before starting. Nature 


having some seven wagon-loads with him, and also what they 
said of his doings in Santa Fé, alluding to its capture by the 
Americans without resistance. I told him there was but one 
opinion respecting it expressed all over the country—that Gen. 
Armijo and the New Mexicans were a pack of arrant cowards; 
to which he answered: ‘Adios! they don’t know I had but 75 
men to fight 3,000. What could I do?’” General Armijo died at 
Limitar, New Mexico, December 9, 1858. 


98 


« AV8ST-978T ‘oowayy nayy fo uorpmunuy siy fo q40doy,, $7409 Ph WoL 
SOOUd AO HOVTTIA GALYHSHd AHL AO SNINY 








1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


furnishes beautiful reflections for the mind as well as 
pictures for the eye, in the grand scenes before me. 

Saturday 29th. I have visited this morning the ruins 
of an ancient pueblo,” or village, now desolate and a 
home for the wild beast and bird of the forest. 

It created sad thoughts when I found myself riding 
almost heedlessly over the work of these once mighty 
people. There perhaps was pride, power and wealth, 
carried to its utter most limit, for here tis said the 


°° This was the ancient town of Pecos, the largest and most 
populous of the pueblos of New Mexico. It was situated on an 
upper branch of the Pecos River, about thirty miles southeast 
of Santa Fé. At the time of Coronado’s visit, in 1540, Pecos 
contained about 2,500 inhabitants. It consisted of two pueblos, or 
communal dwellings, each four stories high, one containing five 
hundred and seventeen and the other five hundred and eighty-five 
rooms on their respective ground floors. The buildings were 
erected on a terrace arrangement and must have contained a tre- 
mendous number of rooms, so as to make the modern apartment 
house pale into insignificance. The population in this place 
dwindled down until 1790, when there were only one hundred 
and fifty-two souls. It is supposed that most of them were killed 
in a raid by the Comanche Indians, and that epidemics contributed 
largely to the depopulation of the place. In 1888 there were only 
seventeen survivors, who went over the mountains and joined a 
tribe at Jemez. It is said that they carried with them some of 
the sacred fire, and in the days of this journal were still main- 
taining it. 

Pecos was once a fortified town, built upon a rock somewhat 
in the shape of a foot. At one end of the rock, or promontory, 
were the remains of the Aztec temple, which contained the sacred 
fire, and at the other end were the remains of the Catholic 
church, so close that the incense from the Aztec fire was sent 
through the altars of this Christian church. The place where this 
sacred fire was kept, known as the estuffa, was forty feet in 


99 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL ravauer 


great Montezuma once lived, though tis probably a 
false tradition, as the most learned and ancient Ameri- 
can historians report that great monarch to have re- 
sided much farther south than any portion of New 
Mexico. 

At any rate these pueblos believed in and long- 
looked for the coming of their king to redeem them 
from the Spanish yoke. And I am told by persons who 
saw it, that tis only within some two or three years 
since it was inhabited by one family only, the last of 
a once numerous population. These continued to keep 
alive ““Montazuma’s fire,” till it was accidently ex- 
tinguished, and they abandoned the place, believing 
that Fate had turned her hand against them. This fire, © 
which was kept in vaults under ground, now almost 
entirely filled in by the falling ruins, was believed to 
have been kindled by the king himself, and their an- 
cestors were told to keep it burning till he returned, 
which he certainly would, to redeem them, and it has 
been continued down to this time, or within a few 
years. 

But now something of what my own eyes witnessed. 
—The only part standing is the church. We got off 
our horses at the door and went in, and I was truly 


diameter and must have required an enormous amount of labor 
to keep replenished. 

The bones which have been dug from the floor of the Aztec 
temple, in modern times, were of gigantic size. There is a tra- 
dition that this temple—which is supposed to have been in 
existence over five hundred years before the time mentioned by 
the diarist—was built by a race of giants, fifteen feet in height, 
which preceded the Aztecs. 


100 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


awed. I should think it was sixty feet by thirty. As is 
the custom among the present inhabitants of Mexico, 
this pueblo is built of unburnt bricks and stones. The 
ceiling is very high and doleful in appearance; the 
sleepers are carved in hiroglyphical figures, as is also 
the great door, altar and indeed all the little wood- 
work about it, showing that if they were uncivilized 
or half-civilized as we generally believe them, they had 
at least an idea of grandure. Some parts of it, too, 
have the appearance of turned work, though it is diffi- 
cult to decide, it is so much battered to pieces. From 
the church leads several doors, into private apartments 
of the priests, confession-room, penance chambers &c. 

One of them only has a fire place in it, and this is 
exceedingly small. All around the church at different 
distantes are ruins; the side of one house remains 
perfect still, and ’tis plain to see a three storied build- 
ing once was there. The upper rooms were entered by 
ladder from the outside—and in case of an enemy’s 
coming these ladders were drawn up, and no com- 
munication being afforded below they were perfectly 
secure to cast stones or any other missil at their not 
so well protected enemy. 

Mi alma pointed out to me the door of a room in 
which he had once slept all night in some of his trips 
across the plains, and while some of the inhabitants 
still remained. It was in the second story of a house, 
which is now entirely fallen in, and the doors so en- 
tirely closed by the rubbish (except this room) that 
it had nothing of the appearance of having been a 
house. 

101 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL AUST 


The place too has the appearance of having been 
once fortified, from the number of great stones lying 
all around it, and which they must have used in this 
way as they are too large for the building of houses. 

They say this is our last evening out, that tomorrow 
we will see Santa Fé. And to this I shall not object, 
if we are to stay there a whole winter, or even till 
winter, I must be in and preparing my house. 

I do think I have walked three or four miles today; 
before noon I rode on horseback over all the bad 
places in the road, but this P. M. I have walked. It 
will not hurt me though, and especially as much as ~ 
jolting in the carriage over the hills and rough road 
we have passed, and being frightened half to death all 
the while. 

An other Spanish beauty, I saw this evening, with 
her face painted, a custom they have among them 
when they wish to look fair and beautiful at a “Fan- 
dango,” of covering their faces with paint or flour-— 
paste and letting it remain till it in a measure bleaches 
them. These I saw one of them had paste—and with 
it more the appearance of one from the tombs than 
otherwise. Another had hers fixed off with red paint 
which [I at first thought was blood. 

Santa Fé. August 31st 1846. It is really hard to 
realize it, that I am here in my own house, in a place 
too where I once would have thought it folly to think 
of visiting. I have entered the city in a year that will 
always be remembered by my countrymen; and under 
the “Star-spangled banner” too, the first American 
lady, who has come under such auspices, and some of 

102 


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‘6 


df VINVS LV NVAVUVO HHL AO IVAIYUV 





1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


our company seem disposed to make me the first under 
any circumstances that ever crossed the Plains. 

We arrived last night, and at such a late hour it 
was rather difficult for me to form any idea of the 
city. I know it is situated in a valley; and is to be 
seen from the top of a long hill, down which I walked; 
this leads into “the street,’ which as in any other city 
has squares; but I must say they are singuarly occu- 
pied. On one square may be a dwelling-house, a church 
or something of the kind, and immediately opposite 
to it occupying the whole square is a cornfield, fine 
ornament to a city, that. A river runs through the 
place, affording me a fair opportunity to enjoy that 
luxury to the fullest extent. The church is situated at 
the Western end, and though I cannot answer for the 
grandure of the inner side—to say nothing of the 
“outer walls’’—I can vouch for its being well supplied 
with bells, which are chiming, it seems to me, “all the 
time” both night and day. Though Gen. Kearny has 
come in and taken entire possession, seated himself in 
the former Governor’s chair, raised the American flag 
and holds Santa Fé as a part of the United States, 
still he has not molested the habits, religion &c. of the 
people, who so far are well pleased with their truly 
republican governor. 

Nuestra casa [our house] is situated under the 
shadow of “la inglesia”’ [the church], and quite a nice 
little place it is. We have four rooms including la 
cochina [ the kitchen ], our own chamber, storage room, 
and the reception room, parlour, dining-room, and in 
short room of all work. This is a long room with dirt 

103 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL rae 


floor (as they all have) plank ceiling, and nicely 
white-washed sides. 

Around one half to the height of six feet is tacked 
what may be called a schreen for it protects ones 
back from the white wash, if he should chance to lean 
against it; it is made of calico, bound at each edge, and 
looks quite fixy; the seats which are mostly cushioned 
benches, are placed against it—the floor too at the 
same end of the room is covered with a kind of Mexi- 
can carpeting; made of wool & coloured black and 
white only. In short we may consider this great hall as 
two rooms, for one half of it is carpeted and furnished 
for the parlour, while the other half has a naked floor, 
the dining table and all things attached to that estab- 
lishment to occupy it. Our chamber, at one end of the | 
“big room,” is a nice cool little room, with two win- 
dows, which we can darken, or make light at pleasure, 
and I must say it is truly pleasant to follow after the 
Mexican style, which is after dinner to close the 
shutters and take a short siesta; it both refreshens the 
mind and body, one is then prepared, without fatigue, 
of the morning’s labours, to go about the duties of the 
evening. 4 

After our arrival last evening Dctr. Conley,” a 
trader, and formerly of Ky. and Col. Owens called. 


*’ Dr. Henry Connelly was a native of Nelson (now Spencer) 
County, Kentucky, where he was born in the year 1800. He was 
graduated as a doctor of medicine from Transylvania University 
in 1828, and soon afterwards opened an office in Liberty, Missouri. 
However, the lure of the trail, coupled with the family tendency 
toward trading and mercantile pursuits, was too strong for him, 
and before a year passed he had abandoned his office and joined 


104 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


Brother James [ Magoffin], received us at our door, 
and supped with us on oysters and Champaign, for 
‘twas too late to prepare a warm supper, and this by 
the bye was not a very bad one, though cold. And he 
dined with us today too. As he is the fore-runner of 
Gen. Kearny, he is to start for Chihuahua tomorrow, 
a day before the Gen. — — — “Speak of something & 
his imps will appear,” is what I have heard in my life, 
and it has been the case this P. M., for just as I fin-. 


a party bound for Chihuahua. These men endured great hard- 
ships, but finally reached their destination. Dr. Connelly became 
clerk in a store and afterwards bought out his proprietor. In this 
business he had occasion for many years to travel back and 
forth to the Missouri River; first with pack mules, and later with 
his own wagon train. 

In 1843 Dr. Connelly formed a partnership with Edward J. 
Glasgow of St. Louis for the overland trade between Chihuahua, 
Mexico, and Independence, Missouri. Dr. Connelly acted as an 
emissary of Armijo in communications with General Kearny, 
before the latter had advanced to Santa Fé. He was later arrested 
at El] Paso and taken to Chihuahua, but there released without 
trial. He was probably a naturalized Mexican citizen, as he made 
an effort to become such in 1882. However, after the war with 
the United States, he moved to New Mexico, where he passed the 
remainder of his life, dying of accidental poisoning in July, 
1866. He established the largest mercantile business in New 
Mexico, having houses at Peralta, Albuquerque, Santa Fé, and 
Las Vegas. In 1861 he was appointed Governor of New Mexico 
by President Lincoln and reappointed in 1864. His influence is 
said to have kept New Mexico out of the Southern Confederacy. 

Dr. Connelly’s family were Irish, but came to America in 
colonial days, settling at Albemarle Point, South Carolina. He 
was the son of John Donaldson and Frances (Brent) Connelly. 
Dr. Connelly was twice married, both times in Mexico and to 
Mexican women. 


105 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL rAvGUsT 


ished writing General, an hour ago, he came walking 
in, accompanied by Mr. Thruston™ of Ky. formerly. 

I had made up my mind that the Gen. was quite a 
different man in every respect; he is small of statue, 
very agreeable in conversation and manners, conducts 
himself with ease, can receive and return compliments, 
a few of which I gave him; as I hope, & mi alma 
thinks, they were of the right kind, and in their time 
and place, so I am satisfied. He says as he is the Gov. 
now I must come under his government, and at the 
same time he places himself at my command, to serve 
me when I wish will be his pleasure &c. This I am sure 
is quite flattering, United States General No, 1 en- 


°° Lucius Falkland Thruston. A contemporary said of him: 
“He stood six feet, six inches in his moccasins.”” He was born in 
Louisville, Kentucky, July 18, 1799, son of John Thruston and 
Elizabeth Thruston Whiting; his father and mother being cousins. 
His father (son of Reverend and Colonel Charles Mynn Thruston 
of Gloucester and Mary Buckner) served as a cornet in George 
Rogers Clark’s campaign in the Illinois country during the Revo- 
lutionary War. Lucius Falkland Thruston went to New Mexico 
about 1827 and spent the remainder of his life in the Mexican 
country. He was arrested and confined in jail at Chihuahua by 
reason of a letter of introduction, directed to him, having been 
found among the papers of a member of the ill-fated Texas- 
Santa Fé Expedition of 1841. After the American occupation of 
Santa Fé, General Kearny appointed him a Prefect, because of 
his knowledge of the Spanish language and his acquaintance with 
the Mexicans. Mr. Thruston had some years previous become a 
citizen of Mexico. He belonged to the prominent Thruston family 
of Kentucky, of which a well-known member is Hon. R. C. 
Ballard Thruston of Louisville. The name is often confused with 
that of Thurston. 


106 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


tirely at my disposal, ready and will feel himself flat- 
tered to be my servant. 

Mr. T. ['Thruston] is a friend of Gen. Kearny’s 
and I believe about to receive an office from him, he is 
a gentleman I should judge who had seen a good deal 
of the world; is easy and familiar in his manners. As 
he leaves with the Gen. day after tomorrow, he will be 
happy to call on me on his return two weeks hence, 
and learn something of his old friends in Ky., a num- 
ber of whom I am acquainted with. . . . This has been 
my evening’s business to receive these gentlemen, 
write of it, and to receive a visit from an American 
lady formerly a resident of “Illinois” I may speak of 
her anon. 

This morning a Mexican lady, Dona Juliana, called 
to see me. She is a woman poor in the goods of this 
world, a great friend to the Americans and especially 
to the Magoffins whom she calls a mui bien famile 
[muy buena familia—very good family ]. Though my 
knowledge of Spanish is quite limited we carried on 
conversation for half an hour alone, and whether cor- 
rect or not she insists that I am a good scholar. 

Tuesday September 1st. Today has been passed 
pretty much as yesterday, in receiving the visits of my 
countrymen. Dr. Mesure called early, before I had 
pulled off my wrapper, to congratulate me on my 
good fortune in getting through the Raton without 
a fractured limb. 

Mr. Houck called too. Brother James dined with 
us, and also supped on oyster-soup and champain. 
Like the rest of his brothers he is quite lively, and this 

107 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL [SEPTEMBER 


evening he appeared unusually so, cracked jokes and 
spun yarns, laughed, drank &c. He thinks because I 
take the slow way of travelling and frequent deten- 
tions so coolly, that I am quite a phylosophic old 
woman, and will do to travel any place. He leaves 
tonight for the Rio Bajo settlements” to prepare for 
Gen. Kearny’s arrival; and from thence he goes to 
Chihuahua to prepare for us, at least he is to get a 
house & necessary articles for house-keeping as he di 
here. 3 

Dona Juliana called again this P. M. to see mi alma 
who was out yesterday. I rather retired from the con- 
versation, save a little which mz alma interpreted to 
her. She is a great rogue to win the respects, good 
wishes, and esteem of la nina [little child], as she 
flatteringly spoke of me to my good husband, who by 
the way took it all well. “4 que Don Manuel, la 
Senora es muy linda, muchachita, la nina! Y que es 
major, ella es muy afabla, muy placentera, muy 
buena.” [Ah! Don Manuel, the lady is very pretty, 
only a little girl, a child: And what is more, she is very 
affable, very pleasing, very good.] Of course I heard 
none of this. | 

W ednesday 2nd Don Manuel esta muy malo todo 
el dio, y yo esta mut triste. [Samuel has been very sick 
all day, and I am very sad.| Brother James has gone 
and no one has been here today, save Mr. Robert 


°° All settlements below Santa Fé were collectively known as 
Rio Abajo. They comprised over a third of the population and 
the principal wealth of New Mexico. The settlements up the 
river were known as Rio Arriba. 


108 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


Spears” of Missouri, who called this morning before 
breakfast. 

Here I have sat all day brooding over and exerting 
all my energies to relieve by bathing and other out- 
ward applications, the severe pains in mi alma’s head; 
but the relief is only momentary, and oh, how it hurts 
me to see him lying in such pain and my poor hands 
are so entirely worthless. 

Mi alma is rather better tonight. Lieu. Warner 
called as we sat down to tea and took it with us. 

Thursday 3rd. Una Senora [a lady] called to see 
me today, mi alma was in and interpreted for me, so 
my tongue was vale nada [no account]. Her name I 
do not know as yet, but her lengua [tongue | I do, for 
she kept in constant motion all the time of her visit, 
which lasted an hour and a half, very fashionable! 
She is a good old lady I dare say; speaks in favour of 
the foreigners, and without hesitation says Gen 
A[r]mijo is a ladrén [thief] and coward. 

She has great confidence in her own knowledge of 
the men, as she speaks of those staple objects of Crea- 
tion, and says she wishes we could understand each 


*° Probably the same Robert Spears, of Doniphan’s command, 
who was killed by Navaho Indians near Fray Cristobal, No- 
vember 26, 1846. The army had a large flock of sheep, which 
was driven off by the Mexicans or Navaho. Spears and James 
Stewart followed the trail of the sheep and overtook them, but 
being without arms the Indians fell upon and killed them. One 
was pierced with thirteen arrows and the other with six or seven 
—the arrows were broken off and the barbed heads left in the 
wounds. Their heads were mashed with rocks and their bodies 
treated in a shocking manner. 


109 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL [SEPTEMBER 


other sufficiently well that she might give me some 
advice respecting their snares! She could lesson me to 
the fullest limit, ’d venture to say. 

We are having fine protection near us in case of 
danger; the soldiers have made an encampment on the 
common just opposite our house, and though we are 
situated rather “out of town,” we have as much noise 
about us as those who reside in the center of the city.— 
We have constant rhumours that Gen. A[r]mijo has 
raised a large fource of some five or six thousand men, 
in the South, and is on his march to retake possession 
of his kingdom. The news has spread a panic among 
many of his former followers, and whole families are 
fleeing, lest on his return they should be considered as 
traitors and treated accordingly. 

In other families there is mourning and lamenta- 
tions, for friends they may never again see on earth. 
A day or two before Gen. Kearny arrived, A[r]mijo 
collected a fource of some three thousand men to go 
out and meet him, and even assembled them ready for 
a battle in the canon some twelve miles from town, but 
suddenly a trembling for his own personal safety 
seized his mind, and he dispersed his army, which if 
he had managed it properly could have entirely dis- 
abled the Gen’s troops by blockading the road &c. and 
fled himself! While all these men, the citizens of Santa 
Fé and the adjacent villages, were assembled in the 
canon, and their families at home left entirely desti- 
tute of protection, the Nevijo [ Navaho] Indians came 
upon them and carried off some twenty families. 
Since Gen. K.— arrived and has been so successful, 

110 


1810} | DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


they have petitioned him to make a treaty with them, 
which he will not consent to till they return their 
prisoners, which ’tis probable they will do thro’ fear, 
as they deem the Gen. something almost superhuman 
since he has walked in so quietly and taken possession 
of the pallace of the great A[r]mijo, their former 
fear. 

Friday 4th. Mi alma has been away all day, and 
though entirely alone, I cannot say I have grown 
lonesome, for both my mind and body have been ac- 
tively engaged. 

I have my housekeeping to attend to now; and the 
opportunity for growing lonesome or sad in any way 
is rather poor. I’ve been teaching one of the Mexican 
servants his business how he is to do it &c., and though 
we have considered him one of the numbskulls, I have 
found him both willing and apt in learning. The great 
virtue of these servants is their ever pleasant faces; 
they never begin their work sullenly, and you may 
change it as often as you please or make them do it 
over, and over, and they continue in the same good 
humour, never mouthing and grumbling because they 
have too much to do, but remain perfectly submissive, 
and indeed it is a pleasure, when an underling is so 
faithful, to do them any little favour. Mine is a quiet 
little household, the servants are all doing their duty, 
the great bugbear to most house-keepers; and if I can 
do my duty so well as to gain one bright smile and 
sweet kiss, from my good, kind husband, on his return 
my joy will be complete for I trust my spiritual busi- 
ness has not been neglected. 

dit 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL | {szpreser 


Wrote a long letter to Mama, (to be sent to- 
morrow) telling her of my sickness at Bent’s Fort. 

Saturday 5th, Let me see what has transpired today 
within the little circle of my vision. After an. early 
breakfast mz alma went out on business (not afraid to 
trust all things to his own “little one’) and as usual I 
commenced my daily task—the superintending of 
the general business of house-keepers, such as sweep- 
ing, dusting, arranging and re-arranging of furniture, 
making of beds, ordering dinner, &c. &c. &c. This part 
being completed, I took up my sewing. 

In a little while though I was called up to buy some 
vegetables from a little muchacha [girl], and a 
cunning piece she was too, knows well how to make 
her granos [small weights], cwartillos [close figur- 
ing], &c. the idea of her offering me four squashs for 
one real, and half a dozen ears of mais verde [ green 
corn] for un real y media [a real and a half—714 
cents]. One must look out for themselves, I find if 
they do not wish to be cheated though only of a few 
cents, and called tonta [stupid], into the bargain. I 
shall know the next time better how to deal with them. 
——-— And [I had a visit from an Indian chief too, but 
what is his name? Well at any rate his tribe is known 
as the Comanche. He speaks quite good English and 
some Spanish, and our conversation was carried on 
in both languages! he was well dressed in new boots, 
pants, hat, and white blanket-coat. He told me he was 
a friend to Don Manuel, had come to see me, asked if 
I was “good” meaning well, and among other ques- 
tions—said he was bearing a letter to Gen. Kearny 

112 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


(and showed it to me) from some of the officers here. 
I suppose it is something of a treaty. 

Sunday 6th. I hope the first sabbath in the city of 
Santa Fé has been passed, so far as opportunities 
would admit, in a way deserving it. The morning was 
spent in reading the Bible and other pious books, and 
in serious reflections. 

Though the sabbath, two gentlemen, Lieu. Warner 
& the aid de camp of our Gen. [called ] ; with the latter 
I had some conversation in regard to the neglect of 
this day by people generally, the traders and soldiers, 
especially, on the Plains; the advantage of a pious 
leader to the latter, and this called forth the informa- 
tion of the strict piety of Gen. Kearny an Episco- 
palian. This is truly fortunate, and increases doubly 
the already high esteem I have for that General. 

Monday 7th. Received early this morning four 
mammoth bunches of purple grapes with the regards 
of Lieuts. Warner and Hammond,” the latter aid to 


* Thomas Clark Hammond was born at Fort McHenry, Mary- 
land, August 19, 1819. Entered the United States Military Aca- 
demy July 1, 1837, and graduating therefrom served as second 
lieutenant in the Dragoons. Lieutenant Hammond married, Janu- 
ary 28, 1845, Miss Mary A. Hughes, daughter of Judge M. M. 
Hughes, of Platte County, Missouri. The marriage was clandes- 
tine and took place on Pilot Knob, near Fort Leavenworth, 
Kansas; the ceremony being performed on horseback. The “angel 
baby” referred to (p. 146) was Thomas C. Hammond, Jr., born at 
Bee Creek Mills, May 22, 1846, and later a prominent physician 
of Platte County. Lieutenant Hammond was killed, December 6, 
1846, in the battle of San Pasqual, California. A monument has 
been erected to his memory at Platte City, Missouri. (History of 
Clay and Platte Counties, Missouri, p. 945.) 


113 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL — {szpremper 


Gen. K.— They are very sweet though smaller than 
the common grape of the States. 

And today I’ve been constantly engaged, with my 
needle, market people, of whom I have gained some 
little information as to the names of different vege- 
tables, prices &c. 

What an everlasting noise these soldiers keep up— 
from early dawn till late at night they are blowing 
their trumpets, whooping like Indians, or making 
some unheard of sounds, quite shocking to my delicate 
nerves. 

Tuesday 8th. No one has called today! surely we 
are not to be deserted thus! I’ve sat alone a good part 
of the day, thinking of those at home; how I should 
like to step in unawares upon them, and give what I 
know would be an “agreeable surprise,’ and how I 
would like for some of them to see me now how very 
happy and contented I am, how I am delighted with 
this new country, its people, my new house, or rather 
my first house, which *twas supposed 1 should not be 
capable of managing, and last of all what a good, at- 
tentive, and affectionate husband I was fortunate 
enough to choose, though “young and wholly inex- 
perienced.” 

Tonight we took a walk to the plazo [ plaza—pub- 
lic square], the first time I’ve been there; my oppor- 
tunity for seeing was not very good, for the night was 
dark, and they have no public lights. The plazo or 
square is very large—on one side is the government 
house with a wide portal in front, opposite is a 
large church commenced by the predecessor of Gov. 

114 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


Armijo, tis not finished—and dwelling houses—the 
two remaining sides are fronted by stores and dwell- 
ings, all with portals, a shed the width of our pave- 
ments; it makes a fine walk—and in rainy weather 
there is no use for an umbrella. 

They have a circle of trees around the square, leav- 
ing a wide street between them and the portal.— 
Within a few days past the American soldiers have 
erected a very tall pole in the center of the square; 
the flag is run up occasionally. 

Wednesday 9th. Una Senora called this morning, 
and as usual when mi alma is out. I talked a good deal, 
she thinks I both speak and understand bastante 
[ sufficiently | What an inquisitive, quick people they 
are! Every one must know if I have una madre un 
padre, hermanos e hermanas [a mother, father, 
brothers, and sisters], their names &c. They examine 
my work if I am engaged at any. when they are in, 
and in an instant can tell me how it is done, though 
perhaps ‘tis the first of the kind they have ever seen. 

The market affords us fine dwrasnos [| peaches] and 
delicious grapes, which though quite small are re- 
markably sweet and well flavoured; also good melons, 
the apples though, are inferior. 

Thursday 10th. A cool day this, such weather 
though as we have had for more than a week. The air 
is fine and healthy; indeed the only redeeming quality 
of this part of New Mexico is its perfectly pure at- 
mosphere, not the damp unhealthy dews of the States. 
One can walk through the deep grass here, and his 
shoes will never show at any time, either late in the 
115 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL  {szpremser 


evening or at early dawn, the slightest moisture. We 
have occasionally a little thunder and slight sprinkle of 
rain, enough to settle the dust. 

News is received that Gen. Kearny will be here by 
the 12th and that Col. Price,” who has command of 
an other detachment of Malitia from the States, will 


“2 Sterling Price was a member of Congress from Missouri 
when the war with Mexico became imminent, and resigning 
therefrom he returned home for the purpose of raising troops. 
President Polk gave him a commission as colonel, and the troops 
raised by him were afterwards organized into the Second Mis- 
souri Regiment of Mounted Infantry. This regiment was per- 
mitted to elect its own officers, and much to the gratification of 
Price the men elected him to the chief command. This regiment 
followed Kearny, and with its train of baggage and provision 
wagons started to move in August, 1846, and after fifty-three 
days on the march, reached Santa Fé. Colonel Price and his staff 
preceded the main body, reaching Santa Fé September 28, 1846. 
For his gallantry and meritorious service in this war, Price was 
promoted to the rank of brigadier-general on July 20, 1847. 

Price was a Virginian, born in Prince Edward County, Sep- 
tember 11, 1809, and received his education at Hampden-Sydney 
College. In 1831 he traveled with his father’s family to Fayette, 
Howard County, Missouri, and there entered the tobacco com- 
mission business. On May 14, 1833, he was married to Miss 
Martha Head. Later he conducted business in the town of Keytes- 
ville, Chariton County, and finally settled on a farm near the 
town, which was always thereafter his home. 

Sterling Price was a member of the Missouri Legislature in 
1886, 1840, and 1842, and on the last two occasions was chosen 
Speaker. He was a Democrat, and as such was elected to Con- 
gress in 1844. The popularity of General Price increased rapidly 
after his return from the Mexican War, and in 1852 he was 
elected governor of Missouri, being the anti-Benton candidate. 
The salary of governor was then two thousand dollars per annum, 


116 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


be in soon, he is now within a few miles of the city. 
Lieut. Warner has waited on me this A. M. with an 
invitation to attend a Spanish ball given by the officers 
to the traders. As the only traderess, it would be 


and at his suggestion was raised to twenty-five hundred dollars, 
but he refused to accept the increase for himself. 

In 1861 events in the life of General Price ran a rapid and 
devious course. He was elected to the convention held in Missouri 
to decide the question of secession, and was chosen president of 
that convention. He opposed secession in and out of the con- 
vention, strongly advocating neutrality. On May 10, following, 
the state troops, in annual encampment at St. Louis, were made 
prisoners by Captain Lyon of the United States Army. On May 
18 Governor Claiborne Jackson appointed Sterling Price major- 
general in command of the Missouri State Guard. The course of 
events brought General Price to decide upon joining the Con- 
federate Army. He was made major-general by the Confederate 
Government, and led his troops with great skill and success in 
the battles of Wilson’s Creek, Missouri; Pea Ridge, Arkansas; 
and Lexington, Missouri. In the latter engagement he had his 
men fight behind bales of hemp, moving them toward the enemy 
as they advanced. This movable fortification proved a great in- 
stitution, and was unique in the annals of warfare. 

General Price and his command were distinguished at Iuka 
and Corinth, but most of their operations were west of the Mis- 
sissippi. The duties of the Trans-Mississippi Department con- 
sisted in keeping the Federal troops away from Texas, the great 
source of Confederate supplies, and in getting these transported 
across the Mississippi. In this the service of Price’s army was of 
great value, and eminently successful, even after the opening up 
of that river by the Federals. 

General Price was a soldier in every sense of the word, a 
strict disciplinarian and a great general. He was a handsome 
man of very large physique and very kindly nature. His troops 
spoke of him affectionately as “Old Pap Price” and idolized him. 


Jidhey 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL — {sepremBer 


offending in me after so polite a request, not to ex- 
hibit myself at the managerie, along with other bipeds 
of curiosity. 

Friday 11th, What did I write of last yesterday? 
The managerie, well, now for a little critical view of 
it. I went in of course somewhat prepared to see; as 
I have often heard of such a show, I knew in a meas- 
ure what to look for. First the ballroom, the walls of 
which were hung and fancifully decorated with the 
“stripes and stars,” was opened to my view—there 
were before me numerous objects of the biped species, 
dressed in the seven rain-bow colours variously con- 
trasted, and in fashions adapted to the reign of King 
Henry VIII, or of the great queen Elizabeth, my 
memory cannot exactly tell me which, they were en- 
tirely enveloped, on the first view in a cloud of smoke, 
and while some were circling in a mazy dance others 
were seated around the room next the wall enjoying 
the scene before them, and quietly puffing, both males 
and females their little cigarritas a delicate cigar made 
with a very little tobacco rolled in a corn shuck or bit 
of paper. I had not been seated more than fifteen 


If any one asked what the men were cheering about, the answer 
would be: “It is either a rabbit, or General Price moving along . 
the line.” : 

After the war General Price went to Cordova, Mexico, where 
he received a grant of land from the Emperor Maximilian. He 
was joined there by many Confederates, but upon the fall of 
Maximilian they returned to the United States. General Price 
died in St. Louis of cholera, September 29, 1867. In 1911 the 
state of Missouri erected a bronze statue to his memory at 
Keytesville, Missouri. 


118 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


minutes before Maj. Soards* an officer, a man of 
quick perception, irony, sarcasm, and wit, came up to 
me in true Mexican style, and with a polite, “Madam 
will you have a cigarita,” drew from one pocket a 
handfull of shucks and from an other a large horn of 
tobacco, at once turning the whole thing to a bur- 
lesque. 

Among the officers of the army I found some very 
agreeable, and all were very attentive to me. Liuts. 
Warner & Hammund, the principal managers of 
affairs did themselves credit in their interested and 
active movements to make the time pass agreeably to 
their visitors. | 

El Senor Vicario [the priest] was there to grace the 
gay halls with his priestly robes—he is a man rather 
short of statue, but that is made up in width, which 
not a little care for the stomach lends an assisting hand 
in completing the man. There was “Dona Tula”™ the 


48 Major Thomas Swords, born in New York City, November 
1, 1806, and graduated from the United States Military Academy 
in 1829. After serving in various parts of the Southern States, on 
March 3, 1839, he was promoted to the rank of captain and served 
on the frontier with General Henry Leavenworth against the 
Indians in the Southwest. On April 21, 1846, as major quarter- 
master, he was assigned to Kearny’s command. When General 
Kearny’s forces reached San Diego in January, 1847, Major 
Swords went to the Sandwich Islands to obtain clothing and 
supplies for the soldiers. He rose to the rank of colonel, and on 
March 13, 1865, was brevetted brigadier-general for faithful and 
efficient service in Quartermaster Department during the Civil 
War. General Swords retired February 22, 1869, and died in New 
York City, March 20, 1886. 

44 Gertrudes Barcelo, familiarly known as “La Tules.” She was 


119 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL __{sepremper 


principal monte-bank keeper in Sant Fé, a stately 
dame of a certain age, the possessor of a portion of 
that shrewd sense and fascinating manner necessary 
to allure the wayward, inexperienced youth to the hall 


a native of Taos and went to Santa Fé in search of “fame and 
fortune,” where she found both. She was considered the most 
expert monte dealer of her time. Of fascinating manners and dis- 
tinctly Spanish type of beauty, she became a great favorite in 
oficial circles. In her long sala balls were given, where the 
officers attached to the Mexican garrison disported themselves as 
inclination demanded; these entertainments, however, being by 
invitation only. The card rooms were patronized by the élite, and 
hundreds of thousands of dollars were won and lost in this — 
“sporting emporium,” where this goddess of chance ruled supreme. 
During the American occupation she was a great favorite among 
the American officers, and having received information as to the 
conspiracy of December, 1846, through a mulatto servant, she 
gave warning to the military authorities. (Twitchell, Old Santa 
Fe, 338.) 

It is said that this woman made a loan to the United States 
Government, through Colonel David D. Mitchell, who had been 
ordered to open communications between General Wool, sup- 
posed to be at Chihuahua, and the Army of the North. The 
Government not having, at Santa Fé, the thousand dollars neces- 
sary to purchase supplies for his men, Colonel Mitchell was at a 
loss how to raise the money. He finally thought of Senora Tules, 
but she proved obdurate. He got into her good graces, however, 
by escorting her to a ball, walking into the room with this 
notorious woman on his arm, which so flattered her that she con- 
sented to make the loan. 

Monte was played with cards, suits being clubs, swords, suns, 
and. cups, all delineated in their own proper colors and figures. 
Each suit numbered ten cards (like American) from ace to seven, 
and then knave, horse standing in the place of queen, and king. 
The mysteries of the game could be learned only by losing at it. 


120 


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1846} DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


of final ruin. There was Col. Donathan,* a native of 
Ky. “as you will see by my statue Madam,” leaving 
unknowing listeners to believe that state the mother 
of a giant tribe. There, too, circling giddily through 


*° Alexander William Doniphan was a lawyer by profession, 
who gained great distinction as a military officer, although he had 
no military education and no knowledge of military tactics. He 
assisted Governor Edwards of Missouri in recruiting troops to 
fill the quota of that state for the Mexican War. Doniphan himself 
enlisted as a private in a company from Clay County, which was 
one of the eight companies united to form the famous First Regi- 
ment of Missouri Mounted Volunteers. This regiment numbered 
one thousand men from the best families in the state, and con- 
tained the best raw material imaginable for military service in 
time of war. It became part of the force commanded by General 
Kearny. 

After a few weeks of drill this regiment started on the march, 
June 26, 1846. They entered Santa Fé, marched from there into 
the country of the Navaho Indians, whom Doniphan treated with, 
and then through deep snows to the eastern slopes of the Rocky 
Mountains. After accomplishing the objects of the expedition, 
fighting in the meantime the battles of Brazito and Sacramento, 
they marched to Chihuahua, Mexico, to form a junction with 
General Wool. Not finding General Wool, Doniphan reported to 
General Taylor, and later embarked with his troops for New 
Orleans. Some of his men wanted to remain in Chihuahua until 
the arrival of General Wool; others suggested a retrograde march 
to Santa Fé; most of them, however, were in favor of pressing 
homeward by way of Monterey, but Doniphan impatiently said, 
“T am for going home to Sarah and the children.” This expression 
took hold and became a popular one in the army. 

In twelve months Doniphan’s command marched about four 
thousand miles, performing a military feat said to be without 
parallel. Fighting and marching with continued success, his men 
were without uniforms, tents, or military discipline. His officers 
and men, with sunburnt faces and grizzled beards, had a strange 


121 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL __{serreBer 


the dance, Cpt. M[oore] of [First] Dragoons; if 
necessary we can be sure of at least one person to 
testify to the “virtues or vices” of what has been 
graphically called “the ingredient.” There in that 


uncouth appearance when they returned home. Their ill-made 
clothing, having fallen from them piecemeal, had been substi- 
tuted from time to time with whatever the wild beasts and chance 
threw in their way. 

Colonel Doniphan, the youngest of ten children, was born in 
Mason County, Kentucky, July 9, 1808, and died at Richmond, 
Missouri, August 8, 1887. His father, Joseph Doniphan, was a 
native of King George County, Virginia, and his mother, Anne 
Smith, of Fauquier County, Virginia. Alexander was educated at 
Augusta College, Kentucky, graduating with high honors at 
eighteen. He studied law in the office of Martin Marshall, of 
Augusta, Kentucky, and moved to Missouri in 1829. He entered 
the practice of law at Lexington, and four years later went to 
Liberty. He was in the legislature as a Whig in 1836, 1840, and 
1854. In January, 1861, he was appointed by the Missouri Legis- 
lature one of five delegates to the Peace Conference at Washing- 
ton, and during his absence was elected to the convention held in 
1861, to decide upon the question of Missouri’s seceding. He joined 
the convention at St. Louis, and from the outset was a Union 
man, although an outspoken champion of State’s Rights, as 
indicated in his unpublished autobiography. 

Doniphan acquired fame as a criminal lawyer and was em- 
ployed in every case of importance in northwest Missouri during 
his career. He was a man of surpassing eloquence, and it has been 
said that he was well-nigh invincible before a jury. 

One of Colonel Doniphan’s legal efforts was in behalf of the 
Mormon, Orrin P. Rockwell, who was charged with conspiring 
with Prophet Joseph Smith to assassinate Lilburn W. Boggs, 
former governor of Missouri. Seventeen shots had been fired at 
Governor Boggs, while he was sitting in his home in Independ- 
ence, Missouri; he was severely wounded, but later recovered. 


122 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


corner sits a dark-eyed Senora with a human foot- 
stool; in other words with her servant under her feet— 
a custom I am told, when they attend a place of the 
kind to take a servant along and while sitting to use 
them as an article of furniture. 

The music consisted of a gingling guitar, and violin 


The jury found Rockwell guilty, but he was sentenced to only 
five minutes in jail. 

Doniphan had previously taken part in the war between the 
state of Missouri and the Mormons, serving as commander of the 
First Brigade under General Samuel D. Lucas. When the army 
neared the town of Far West, the Mormons saw that defeat was 
imminent and asked for a compromise. General Lucas told their 
commander that his instructions from Governor Boggs made it 
necessary for them to surrender up Prophet Joseph Smith and 
certain other leaders of their church, to be tried and punished. 
Their commander, Colonel George M. Hinkle, agreed to this, but 
neglected to confide in his brethren. Instead he told Smith and 
the four others designated that General Lucas wanted to confer 
with them. He accompanied them to General Lucas, who imme- 
diately made them prisoners. A short time afterwards they were 
court-martialed and General Lucas ordered Doniphan to take 
them into the public square of the town and shoot them at nine 
o’clock the following morning. Colonel Doniphan, in a high state 
of indignation, replied to his superior as follows: “It is cold- 
blooded murder. I will not obey your order. My brigade shall 
march for Liberty [ Missouri] tomorrow morning at eight o’clock, 
and if you execute these men I will hold you responsible before 
an earthly tribunal, so help me God!’ General Lucas rescinded 
the order. These, and other Mormon prisoners, were kept by the 
militia for some time, and then turned over to the civil courts. 
After being further imprisoned for several months, the Mormon 
leaders were permitted to escape. 

In his autobiography Colonel Doniphan did not mention his 
connection with the Mormon war. 


1238 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL __{seprempur 


with the occasional effort to chime in an almost un- 
earthly voice. Las Senoras y Senoritas [the ladies 
and girls—young ladies | were dressed in silks, satins, 
ginghams & lawns, embroidered crape shawls, fine 
rabozos—and decked with various showy ornaments, 
such as hugh necklaces, countless rings, combs, bows 
of ribbands, red and other coloured handkerchiefs, and 
other fine fancy articles. This is a short sketch of a 
Mexican ball. Liuts Warner & Hammond called this 
evening to see how I enjoyed the dance (not that I 
joined [in] it myself). 

Saturday 12th. William” arrived this morning, and 
oh, how provoked I am with him; he had letters for me 
and instead of bringing them left them in his trunk 
at the wagons. I may almost expect some by the ex- 
press by the time they get here, the wagons have that 
ugly Raton to pass through, and to be broken all to 
pieces, and mended before they get here. Men are such 
provoking animals when they take it into their heads. 
I must be more expert in my Spanish, that I may 
receive the advice that la Senora [the lady—Mrs. | 
Ortis wishes to give me respecting them; how I shall 
punish them for their misconduct, spoil them for their 
good deeds, & other little fixings— 


*6 William Magoffin, youngest son of Beriah Magoffin. After 
returning from this expedition he took up the study of medicine. 
He served in the Confederate Army during the war between the 
states; married, in Savannah, Georgia, Miss Anne Patterson. 
Practiced his profession for a while in Georgia, then removed to 
Minnesota, where he lived for many years. William Magoffin died 
at the home of his brother, Governor Beriah Magoffin, in 
Harrodsburg, Kentucky. 


124 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


Two of the officers called tonight to while away a 
few hours in social chat. Capt. Turner” is a gentle- 
man of extensive information; exceedingly polite, en- 
deavours to make himself agreeable and to interest the 
company with his interesting narations; he spent a 
year in France, and has traveled in Prusia—his con- 


*" Henry Smith Turner was born in King George County, Vir- 
ginia, April 1, 1811. In 1830 he was admitted as a cadet at West 
Point, and graduated in June, 1834, receiving the brevet of 
second lieutenant in the First Dragoons. On March 8, 1887, he 
was appointed aide-de-camp to General Atkinson, serving in that 
capacity until July, 1839. Then he was sent by the War Depart- 
ment, with two colleagues, to the cavalry school at Saumur, 
France, to study cavalry tactics, and prepare a manual of in- 
structions for that arm of the service in the army of the United 
States. Upon returning to the United States two years later, he 
married Miss Julia M. Hunt, daughter of Theodore Hunt and 
Ann Lucas Hunt of St. Louis. He was promoted to the rank of 
captain of the First Dragoons, April 21, 1846, and served as the 
acting assistant adjutant of General Kearny’s Army of the West. 
At the battle of San Pasqual, California, on December 6, 1846, 
Turner was badly wounded, but none of his comrades knew of his 
injury until after the battle. He was brevetted major for gallant 
and meritorious conduct in this affair; was in the conflicts at San 
Gabriel and Plains of Mesa, California. Major Turner was an 
essential witness in the trial by court-martial of Colonel Fre- 
mont, and was detained in attendance on that court at Washington 
until after the treaty of peace in 1848. In July of that year he 
resigned his commission and devoted himself thereafter to civil 
pursuits. In 1852 he embarked in the business of banking, in 
partnership with Captain (afterwards General) William T. Sher- 
man and James H. Lucas. The firm opened a branch bank in San 
Francisco, California, of which Major Turner took personal 
charge and remained there for several years. He died in St. Louis 
December 16, 1881. 


125 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL [SEPTEMBER 


versation is both interesting and improving to his 
hearers. - — — Mrs. Turner is a niece of one of the 
Lexingtonians, Mr. John W. Hunt. 

The name of the other officer I do not recollect—he 
is from Baltimore though—and one of the plain inde- 
pendent, blunt spoken men, just exactly the reverse 
of his companion. If he has not the brilliant mind and 
great command of language that the other has to 
interest he at least can amuse with his droll sayings. 

The military have been very punctual in calling, 
some of them nearly every day; our similar situations 
—the separations from friends and relations—seems 
to create within us all a kind of sympathetic feeling 
that makes each other’s society agreeable, and quite 
desirable to be sought after in this foreign land where 
there are so few of our countrymen, and so few man- 
ners and customs similar to ours, or in short anything 
to correspond with our national feelings and fire-side 
friendships. 

Mr. Glasgow—a trader—called this morning and 
soon talked away a half hour; he is quite an agreeable 
St. Louisan, and interested me with a description of 
the manner in which The Gen. was received in the 
lower settlements. 

Sunday 13th. An other Sabbath in Santa Fé—we 
have intended the whole week to visit the church to- 
day, but the best hour for attending mass (there are 
two or three) not being known we have declined it 
till an other day. 

Dr. Conley and Mr. Thruston called about 11 o’k. 
sat with us half an hour. The latter has spent several 

126). 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


years in this country in different parts; some times 
talks of returning to Louisville Ky. his former home, 
but I suspect he has become so well iniciated in the 
manners of living and ways of Mexico, he will not be 
in much of a hurry to visit his native land. They give 
us some news just arrived from Chihuahua, viz: That 
Peredes® the new President and General in the field 
has been taken prisoner by his own troops while on his 
way from the city of Mexico to give battle to Gen. 
Taylor at Montere [ Monterey ], and has been lodged 


*8 Mariano Paredes y Arrillage was born in the city of Mexico, 
January 6, 1797. He entered the Spanish Army as a cadet Janu- 
ary 6, 1812, became captain in 1821, at which time he joined 
Iturbide. In 1831 he was promoted to colonel and the next year 
brigadier-general. Was elected president of Mexico, January 
20, 1846. 

' Paredes was frail, slight in form and not ungraceful, though 
maimed by the wounds of many battles. He was known through- 
out the Republic as ““El Manco,” or the wounded hand. He was 
considered the Murat of Mexico, as he knew no fear in his almost 
mad and reckless daring. He was once banished to the United 
States as an exile, studied our institutions and worshiped our 
enterprise. His American feelings were strong. It was his skill, 
energy, and indomitable courage that made Santa Anna president 
of the Mexican Republic, and when Santa Anna trifled with the 
liberties of his beloved country, it was Peredes who hurled the 
dictator from place and power, and banished him. He was a 
favorite with the people—a favorite with the army. As com- 
mander of the forces and governor of one of the richest depart- 
ments of the republic, his influence was seen and felt throughout 
the land. When war with the United States brought about Mexi- 
can defeats in the battles of Palo Alto and Resaca de la Palma, a 
mutiny under General Mariano Salas took place. This resulted in 
President Paredes being deposed and the restoration of Santa 
Anna to power. 


127 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL __tsepremper 


in prison, and that General Santa Anna,” a former 
President, for some years a traveller in the U. S. and 
Cuba, has been recalled to take the power of govern- 
ment into his own hands, and as his feelings to our 
government is rather more lenient and peaceable than 


*° Don Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna was born at Jalapa, in 
the Department of Vera Cruz, February 21, 1795, of an obscure 
and indigent family. In early life, with an inadequate education, 
he joined the army. With a natural suavity of manners, refined 
by his intercourse with the best society of Vera Cruz, and the 
discipline of a studious and observing mind, he acquired a facility 
of address that rendered him at once conspicuous in camp, and 
secured favorable notice of his superiors, both in the army and 
the society in which he’ was admitted. In 1832 he was elected 
president. On April 6, 1836, he stormed the Alamo fort at San 
Antonio, killed its defenders, afterwards massacred the garrison 
at Goliad, and for several weeks was victorious. But on April 21 
he was surprised at San Jacinto and totally routed by the Texas 
army under General Houston. He fled, but was captured three 
days afterwards. On May 14, he signed a treaty with the pro- 
visional president of Texas, recognizing the independence of that 
state. He was a prisoner for eight months, but was finally sent by 
General Houston to the United States. Returning to Mexico later, 
he was coldly received, and retired to his farm. } 

The French invasion of 1838 once more put the warrior into 
his saddle, at the head of the Mexican army before Vera Cruz. 
There, in his charge upon the enemy, he gloriously retrieved his 
character, but lost his left leg below the knee. The wily general 
saw an opportunity to climb to the top of the political ladder 
with his dismembered limb, and accordingly sent his fallen leg 
to his fellow citizens in the city of Mexico, accompanied by an 
eloquent letter, full of patriotic sentiments. 

From 1839 to 1844 Santa Anna was again in power, in one 
form or another, either as president or military dictator. In the 
latter year a mutiny resulted in his flight, capture, release, and 


128 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


Peredes, he is to petition for quarters. This if true, is 
as favourable as we could desire, and it is the general 
opinion that ere this a minister to that effect has been 
sent to our Government. I trust it may be so indeed. 

Wrote a long letter to Sister Anna this A. M. and 
now if I could only have those she sent me by Wm. 
what a treat ’twould be. 

Monday 14th. Gen. Kearny and Mr. Glasgow 
called this A. M., found me in the kitchen with my 
hands in something for dinner. I sent Jane in to seat 
them, and in a little while went in with my sun-bonnet 
in my hand and frankly told the gentlemen they had 
caught me attending to my household duties. The 
Gen. seemed delighted with my candour, met me half 
way across the floor with out stretched hand, and when 
seated gave me a very graphic account of his recep- 
tion at the lower settle’ how he paraded through 
some little village in the priests procession, carrying 


retirement to Havana. After the defeats by the United States 
troops, when President Paredes was deposed, Santa Anna was 
recalled to the command of the army, and in December, 1846, 
again became president. On December 21, 1853, he had himself 
appointed president for life, with power of nominating his suc- 
cessor. After many revolutions, aroused by his despotic rule, he 
fled and finally settled on the island of St. Thomas. 

He made several efforts to promote revolts and finally died in 
the city of Mexico, June 20, 1876. 

Santa Anna has been described as a hale-looking man with an 
“Old Bailey” countenance and a well-built wooden leg. His 
‘countenance was said faithfully to depict his character in por- 
traying oily duplicity, treachery, avarice, and sensuality. He 
always paid courtly attention to the fair sex and won great favor 
with them. 


129 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL __tszpremser 


as did all his officers a lighted candle lightening the 
train of the Virgin Mary, and to use his own words 
“making a fool of himself.” He told of his fine feasts, 
the balls, Indian sham battles &c. 

On leaving asked if I had any commission to the 
upper Calafornia he would be at my service, and I re- 
quested him to select me a fine situation, which busi- 
ness he promised faithfully to attend to, provided I 
would give my word to reside there, or at least to take 
possession. He gave me permission to send a letter by 
the mail which goes out on Thursday. 

Liut. Warner called this evening and sat an hour 
with me; he leaves for Touse ['Taos | tomorrow, where 
he is to take the latitude and longetude of this and 
other places. What an odd man he is to talk; giving 
such out-of-the-way details of his travels &c. 

Tuesday 15th. What a polite people these Mexicans 
are, altho’ they are looked upon as a half barbarous set 
by the generality of people. This morning I have 
rather taken a little protege, a little market girl—Sit- 
ting at the window and on the look out for vegetables, 
this little thing came along with green peas the month 
of Sept.; she came in and we had a long conversation 
on matters and things in general, and I found that not 
more than six years old she is quite conversant in all 
things. On receiving her pay she bowed most politely, 
shook hands with a kind “adios” and “me alegro de 
verte bien” [I am glad to see you in good health], and 
also a promise to return tomorrow. Just to see the 
true politeness and ease displayed by that child is 
truly [amazing], ’*twould put many a mother in the 

130 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


U. S. to the blush. And she is so graceful too, her 
rabozo was thrown to one side and a nice white napkin 
of pease set down from off her head with quite as 
much grace as some ladies display in a minuet. Donna 
Julienne called this evening; took a great fancy to my 
cape because it is high in the neck, and will return for 
the pattern; she dislikes, she says, to go into the plazo 
where there are so many Americanos, and her neck 
exposed. 

Cpts. Johnson®’ and Waldo called tonight—they 
belong to the militia, and not to be too severe a critic, 
I shall only say I think I have had some more talka- 
tive, interesting and agreeable visitors. 

Thursday 17th. I wrote nothing yesterday and now 
I do not recollect any of the transactions now, or at 
least they were of but little importance, no visitors I 
believe & nothing to do but sit here all day and read &c. 
&c. &e. 

And today I have been engaged with market people 
in the first place, here is my little protege, with her 
nice napkin of * y totos [tortas—little cakes]; how 
the little thing excites my sympathies and I can almost 
say affections; she is pretty in her face and in her 
manners, and though her garments are not the best 


5° Abraham Robinson Johnson, born in Ohio in 1815, and 
graduated from United States Military Academy. Served on 
frontier duty as first lieutenant of Dragoons at Fort Leavenworth 
1837-1846. In the war with Mexico was aide-de-camp to General 
Kearny, and on June 30, 1846, was promoted to the rank of 
captain, Captain Johnson was killed in the combat of San Pas- 
qual, while gallantly leading a charge against the enemy’s lancers. 

* [Missing in manuscript. | 


131 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL _ {sepremper 


and in something of a tattered condition, she is the 
possessor of some extraordinary qualities, 

Next is a half grown boy with mellons—here he 
asks me “dos reals por una’ [two reals for one] be- 
lieving me to be like some of my countrymen entirely 
young in such matters, but he found me different. I 
looked at him straight till he fell to un real media [a 
real and a half |, when I said “hombre” in a long voice, 
as much as to say “man have you a soul to ask so 
much!” and without hesitation he gladly took wna, the 
regular market price, and I dare say he will return 
another time since he was not able to play the cheat, 
and I am a pretty prompt customer. 

Cpts. Johnson and Turner called tonight and sat 
with us some half hour or more, in pleasant conversa- 
tion & the former makes rather a more agreeable im- 
pression than in his first call. | 

Friday 18th. This has been quite a day of little 
scenes one way & an other; the gentlemen mi alma & 
William have been absent most of the whole day and 
all the visitors I have received alone. The Gen. & Mr. 
Thruston called to pay me an especial visit. How 
candid and plain spoken the general is; he speaks to 
me more as my father would do than any one else— 
it is very kind of him too; so much better than stiff 
formality. I complimented him a little and my own 
dear Kentucky, at the same time by asking him, for my 
own private information, if he [came] from Ky. as 
I believed most or all of the great men were from 
there, or connected with her in some way. In an instant 
he replied, “Madam though I am not a native Ken- 

132 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


tuckian, I have visited there, and Mrs. Kearny is 
from there,” at once taking the compliment to him- 
self, but as I meant it so, ’twas all right. 

Mrs. Leitendorfer (whom I saw at the Fort) and 
her sister called to see me. They were both dressed 
rather in American style; with bonnets, scarfs & para- 
sols and dresses made after the fashions there. We 
carried on quite a sociable chat, and she thinks since 
she saw me last that my progress has been exceed- 
ingly rapid. We are invited to dine, with the Gen. & 
principal officers of his staff, at her house tomorrow at 
two o’k—that is to be the first entire Mexican dinner 
I take. 

While sitting here alone reading this afternoon, 
-some one tapped at the door to which I, on raising my 
head, responded “good evening” and in walked an 
American whom I supposed to be a wagoner wanting 
employment, but soon discovoured my mistake, for 
instead of asking for Mr. Magoffin as such men always 
do, he took a seat unasked and said in half English & 
Spanish “are you Merican.” I looked at him straight 
and briefly replied “yes”! He now discouvered his 
mistake that instead of being in the house of a low 
Mexican he was in that of an American gentleman, 
and stammering out something as to his surprise in 
seeing an American lady, and if I was “satisfied at 
living here,” with a most uneasy twist in his chair for 
without paying any attention to his words, demanded 
“Sf he had any business with Mr. Magoffin the gentle- 
man of this house,” and I may venture to say the poor 

133 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL __{sepremper 


fellow’s frightened looks showed that he heartily 
wished himself in other quarters. It was a perfect reel 
from his chair to the door, and all the while stammer- 
ing, “now Mam—if you will pl—ease excu—se my 
int—trusion’’—at the door he doffed his beaver and 
said, “may I wi—sh you go—od even”; he received 
no other answer to all this than a stern look. Once 
across the door sill he soon found other quarters. 

My little protege too has been here, on leaving she 
adopted her native manner of saluting, and put her 
arms around my waist for she could reach them no 
higher. 

Saturday morning. A written invitation to dine 
with Mr. & Mrs. Leitensdorfer today has just been 
received, and as I am to be somewhat an object of 
wonder ’twould be best that I put on my best man- 
ners, looks, conversation &c. 

Well the dinner is over, and can I give a little sketch 
of the proceedings? I shall try.— 

We left here at fifteen minutes to 2 o’clock P. M. 
passed through the plazo, of course atracting the at- 
tention of all idle bystanders—my bonnet being an 
equal object of wonder with the white woman that 
wore it. We arrived at Mr. L’s door followed by the 
Gen. and his little party of officers, after Mexican 
style, I suppose, we were met by tres Senoras, Mrs. 
L. and two sisters. We entered the dining room where 
we found a number of gentlemen seated around on 
the cushioned benches, and waiting to partake the 
dainty viands now being placed en la mesa [on the 

134 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


table]. My bonnet and shawl were soon removed and 
we seated ourselves at table. 

One custom I cannot admire among them, ’tis this 
the ladies are all placed on one side by themselves, 
while the gentlemen are also alone; ’tis not at all con- 
genial to my sociable feelings, there is much more en- 
joyment for the company generally, much more taste, 
and more sociability when all seat themselves promis- 
cuously around. 

But now for the dinner; first came sopa de vermi- 
cile | vermicelli soup |, then sopa de otro [another kind 
of soup], this is their custom to bring on something 
light preparatory to the more weighty dishes. This 
sopa is pretty much a substitute for our fine sowps. 
The rice is boiled, dressed with little butter, salt &c. 
and then covered over with slices of boiled eggs.— © 
Next came the several dishes of carne de asado, carne 
de cocida [roasted meat, boiled meat], and some other 
carnes, all of which they placed in plates before me, 
and of course I tasted them. 'The champain went round 
without reserve. The Gen. drank and enjoyed it, he 
has been under the Detor for some days past and con- 
sequently could now do justice to the dishes before 
him after his fast. For desert we had a dish made of 
boiled milk and seasoned with cinnamon and nutmeg, 
and it was very good, the recipe I should like. An 
other of cake pudding—both Mexican and new to me, 
fine cool grapes, to which we all did justice. Our 
General gave us a toast, with the permission of our 
host, “The U. S. and Mexico—They are now united, 
may no one ever think of separating.” It was trans- 

135 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL __suprmmser 


lated into Spanish by Mr. Rubidor,” the general’s 
interpreter. T'was responded to by Mrs. L’s brother, 
while the Mexican gentlemen around the table cried 
out “viva” “viva.” After dinner, which lasted some 
two hours and a half or three, we, the ladies, passed 
into an adjoining room, took seats on the low cushions 


*1 Antoine Robidou (the name is frequently spelled Robidoux), 
son of Joseph Robidou and Catherine Rollet dit Laderoute, was 
born in St. Louis, September 22, 1794. He was a brother of 
Joseph Robidou, the founder of St. Joseph, Missouri, and of 
Francois and Louis Robidou, prominent fur traders of the North- 
west and Southwest. In 1828 Antoine Robidou married Carmel 
Benevides at Santa Fé, who accompanied her husband on many 
trips from Santa Fé to St. Joseph. 

Antoine Robidou joined General Kearny’s “Army of the 
West” in June, 1846, and acted thereafter as interpreter. Accom- 
panying Kearny to California, he participated in the battle of 
San Pasqual, where he was severely wounded. Lieutenant Emory 
tells of sleeping next to him after the battle, and of the grave 
doubts of his recovery. Early the morning after the battle 
Robidou awakened Emory and asked him if he did not smell 
coffee, and expressed the belief that a cup of that beverage 
would save his life. Not knowing that there was any coffee in 
the camp, the lieutenant supposed a delirious dream had carried 
him back to the cafés of St. Louis and New Orleans. But much 
to his surprise, upon investigation, he found his cook heating a 
cup of coffee over a small fire. Lieutenant Emory continuing says: 
“One of the most agreeable little offices performed in my life, and 
I believe in the cook’s, to whom the coffee belonged, was to pour 
this precious draught into the waning body of our friend Robi- 
doux. His warmth returned and with it hopes of life. In gratitude 
he gave me what was then a great rarity, the half of a cake made 
of brown flour, almost black with dirt, and which had for greater 
security been hidden in the clothes of his Mexican servant, a man 
who scorned ablutions. I ate more than half without inspection, 


136 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


placed around the wall, immediately cigarrettos were 
brought, this part I declined. After a little more cham- 
pain the gentleman joined us, and by the time a half 
hour’s chat was over ’twas time to depart, they to their 
respective occupations, and we to return the call of 
Don Gespar and Senora Ortis. The latter only was at 
home; we stayed but a short time, in consequence of 
a threatening thunderstorm. 

Madam Ortis is a very talkative and agreeable lady, 
her house I suppose is one of the best in the city. The 
entrance first is into a large court-yard (the fashion 
of all the houses) with portals all around. The long 
salon to the front, is the sitting room. This is furnished 
with cushions, no chairs, two steamboat sofas, tables 
a bed and other little fixtures. 

Sunday 20th. I accompanied the general to church ~ 
today with the view of seeing the church, but this was 
not accomplished, for they placed me around in a 
recess a seat from whence I could see nothing. The 
women kneeled all over the floor, there being no pews, 
while the men stood up, occasionally kneeling and 


when, on breaking a piece, the bodies of several of the most loath- 
some insects were exposed. My hunger, however, overcame my 
fastidiousness, and the morceau did not appear particularly dis- 
gusting until after our arrival at San Diego, when several hearty 
meals had taken off the keenness of my appetite, and suffered my 
taste to be more delicate.” 

Robidou had a trading post in Taos in the twenties; built a fort 
in Colorado in the late thirties, and one in Utah some years later, 
which was in use during the forties. A stream in Colorado, and a 
pass in the Rocky Mountains are both named for him. He died at 
St. Joseph, Missouri, August 29, 1860. 


137 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL {september 


crossing themselves. The priest neither preached nor 
prayed, leaving each one to pray for himself; he re- 
peated some latin neither understood by himself or 
his hearers. The latter repeated their aves and pater 
nosters—ever and anon whispering to a next neigh- 
bour and giving a sly glance to the American specta- 
tors. Their music consisted of a violin, which all the 
time they continued to tune, and a thumming gingling 
guitar; the same tunes they had the other night at the 
fandango, were played. It is a strange mode of wor- 
ship to a protestant who has been raised to regard the 
Sabbath with strictest piety, not even to think of a 
dancing tune on a violin, let the hearing of it alone. 
There are some defaced pictures hanging about the 
Altar, the designs of which, for the numberless 
scratches and fingerprints, I could not unravel. There 
is also a statue of Christ covered with a net to protect 
it from injury—near it is a large waxen doll dressed 
as a priest and is bearing a cross. As soon as the 
Priest left the altar, after an hour’s stay, we took our 
departure from the Church and thus ended my first 
lesson in Catholicism! 

Monday 21st. Mi alma quite sick in bed all day, and 
how lonely the day has been, the house is like some 
vacated castle; no noise is heard save now and then 
the quick but gentle scamper of a mouse embolden by 
the silence of the larger inmates, as he steals out 
from his covert in the earthen floor, to pick a crumb 
or other morsal around the room. I have read most 
of the day and watched by the sick bed. 

138 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


Tuesday 22nd. He is better today and out of his 
room. 

Gen, Kearny with his aid Cpt. Johnson and the 
adjutant General, Cpt. Turner, called tonight and 
sat a long time in pleasant chat. The Gen. delights in 
reminding me of my Calafornia tour, says he will 
write and give me the required information resting 
the sight for my house, and I must let him have my 
word that I will go (there will be a little romance in 
that—and I think we might on the strength of it 
bring forth a novel, with Capt. Johnson, who they 
tell me is a good writer to handle the pen). The Gen. 
will call tomorrow at 10 o’clock to take me to see 
Fort Marcey.” 

While the gentlemen sat here we had a fair oppor- 
tunity of testing the dry virtues of our Mexican house. 
A hard thunder storm came up and detained them 
some half hour or more longer than, I presume, they 
would otherwise called. We continued in pleasant and 


°2 Fort Marcy. This fort was on an elevation commanding the 
city of Santa Fé, and was located by Captain Emory, designed by 
Lieutenant Gilmer, of the Topographical Corps, and L. A. Mac- 
Lean, a volunteer of Reid’s Company. It was built by the volun- 
teer troops, a certain number of men being detailed each day for 
the purpose. The fort was within six hundred yards of the heart 
of Santa Fé and nearly one hundred feet above that city. It was of 
such a size as to accommodate a great number of cannon and one 
thousand soldiers. The walls were built of adobe blocks, two feet 
long, one foot broad, and six inches thick, and was very strong 
and massive. It was named for Secretary of War W. L. Marcy. 
(Hughes, Doniphan’s Expedition, p. 128.) Efforts are being 
made by the Historical Society of New Mexico to restore the old 
fort. 


139 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL _{szpremser 


merry chat, when suddenly the rain came pating onto 
the General, from the ceiling, and of course caused a 
very unceremonious jump, and an inquiring glance to 
know the meaning of that. The mystery, new alike to 
all was soon explained by a bolder stream coming 
through in ‘an other place. Soon we were leaking all 
around, the mud roof coming with the water, and had 
the rain not stoped when it did we might soon have 
been left without a canopy, save the dark forbidding 
sky. 

Wednesday 28rd. Agreeable and punctual to his 
promise, the Gen. mounted on a splendid bay charger, 
reached our door as my faithful time-piece marked 
the hour of 10. My horse was soon in trim & leaving 
mi alma “Madam” of affairs, we commenced winding 
our way through the clogged streets of Santa Fé; first 
we found ourselves inspecting the artillery, arranged 
in two rows on one side of an outer street—from this 
we wound our way along by the barracks, formerly 
for Armijos troops, where a small party of soldiers 
were engaged, as the Gen. passed they all touched 
their beavers with profoundest respect, while he 
kindly returned the salute. We now ascended a long 
and rather steep hill, on the summit of which stands 
fort Marcey, sole master of the entire plain below. 
It is the most perfect view I ever saw. Not only every 
house in the city can be torn by the artillery to attoms, 
but the wide plain beyond is exposed to the fullest 
view—and far beyond this still are the majestic moun- 
tains some of which we passed in coming in. 'The Fort 
occupies some two acres of ground, has double walls 

140 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


built of adobes, the space between being filled with 
stones and morter. Dwellings, store houses &c. are to 
be built within the wall, in the center under ground is 
the magazine for ammunition. Under the wise superin- 
tendence of Lieutenant Gilmer” of the U. S. Corps 
of Engineers, will be, when completed a stronghold as 
well as a prettily improved spot. — — — On leaving the 
Fort we rode to the opposite side of the city (to the 
West) to see the Gloriatta, an inclosed public walk. 


53 Jeremy Francis Gilmer, born in Guilford County, North 
Carolina, February 23, 1818. Graduated at the United States 
Military Academy in 1839. Receiving the rank of second lieu- 
tenant of engineers, he served in the military academy as assistant 
professor of engineering until June, 1840, and then as assistant 
engineer in the building of Fort Schuyler, New York harbor, 
until 1844, following which he was assistant to the chief engineer 
at Washington, D. C., until 1846. During the Mexican War he 
was chief engineer of the Army of the West in New Mexico, con- 
structing Fort Marcy at Santa Fé. He was promoted to the rank 
of captain July 1, 1853. As a member of various commissions of 
engineers, he was continually engaged in fortification work, and 
in the improvement of rivers throughout the South until 1858. 
From that time Captain Gilmer was in charge of the construction 
of defenses at the entrance of San Francisco Bay until June 29, 
1861, when he resigned to join the Confederate Army. He was 
commissioned lieutenant-colonel, corps of engineers, in September, 
1861; was severely wounded in the battle of Shiloh. Subsequently 
he was promoted to brigadier-general, and on August 4, 1862, 
was made chief engineer of the department of northern Virginia. 
A few months later he became chief of the engineer bureau of the 
Confederate States War Department. In 1863 he was promoted to 
major-general. After the war he engaged in railroad and other 
enterprises in Georgia, and from 1867 to 1883 was president and 
engineer of the Savannah Gaslight Company. He died December 
1, 18838, at Savannah, Georgia. 


141 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL __{sepremper 


It was commenced by Gov. Gen. Garcia Conde; 
being planted altogether in indifferent looking Cot- 
ton-woods it is quite susceptible of improvement—a 
Yankee’s ingenuity and Kentuckian’s taste is wanting 
to make it a beautiful place. Leaving this little spot 
we wound our way home again after a ride of an 
hour’s length. The Gen. came in and sat half hour 
with us—in the mean time an ambassador from the 
Comanche Indians called with his staff of treaty, and 
as this was a business to be transacted at home he left 
for “The Palace” with his Indians friends. — — — 

Lieutenant Warner, who has been in Touse ['Taos | 
on duty (surveying) for a week, called to bid me 
“good bye” as he leaves in The Calafornia expedition 
on the 25th. He is a warm-hearted good kind of a 
man—a true friend I should think from the little I’ve 
seen of him—he regrets deeply that we will may be 
not see each other again, but hopes that in the long 
run of things, my travelling so much, and his being 
stationed in all parts of The U. S. chance may bring 
us together again. 

Thursday 24th, This morning’s work is to tell of the 
ball last night, given to the Gen. & his Corps by the 


°* General Pedro Garcia Condé was an accomplished engineer 
and one of the commanding officers, at the battle of Sacramento; 
planning the whole Mexican defense in this action. He held many 
important positions under his government, being at various times 
Secretary of War and Navy, director of the Military College, 
deputy to the Mexican Congress, and Mexican commissioner in 
the United States-Mexican Boundary Commission of 1850. While 
serving in this last mentioned office he died at Arispe, Mexico, on 
December 19, 1850. He was but forty-seven years old at the time. 


142 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


newly appointed officials and citizen merchants. It is 
rather too long to go through the whole, so Ill sketch 
it slightly. "T'was given at the Government house, 
“The Palace,”’’* the first I’ve ever been in. 

On entering the room every one turned to look at 
me and seemed particularly attracted by a scarlet 
Canton crape shawl I wore, to be in trim with the 
“Natives.” I was conducted to a seat by Mr. Smith,” 
one of the managers, and soon was surrounded by the 
Gen. and officers of his staff. Maj. Swords, Capts. 
Turner, Johnson, Clark,’ (who I was introduced to 


°° “Palace of the Governors.” This old building has seen gover- 
nors and governments come and go, from 1698 to the present day. 
Until 1886 it was the home of the governor and seat of govern- 
ment both under Spanish and American rule. Subsequently it 
became the home of the Historical Society of New Mexico. It is 
said that Governor Lew Wallace wrote the last chapters of Ben 
Hur in one of the rooms of this building. The building is of 
adobe construction and extends east and. west along the north 
side of the Plaza, presenting a front of about three hundred feet, 
with a depth of forty feet. It is one story high, has walls three 
feet thick, and a portico along the entire front. 

66 William T. Smith. He was a clerk for John Scolly, trader 
and merchant in Santa Fé. 

57 Meriwether Lewis Clark, son of William Clark, of the Lewis 
and Clark Expedition, and Julia Hancock, was born in St. Louis, 
January 10, 1809. He was appointed a cadet in the United States 
Military Academy July 1, 1825. Served in the Black Hawk War 
as colonel and assistant adjutant-general of Illinois Volunteers 
from May 9 to October 11, 1832, and was wounded in action. 
Colonel] Clark resigned his commission May 31, 18338, and entered 
civil life as a civil engineer. He was a member of the House of 
Representatives of Missouri from 1836 to 1888; recorder of the 
city of St. Louis, 1848; and United States surveyor-general for 


143 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL __{sepremper 


for the first time, a fine looking gentleman, with au- 
burn hair & whiskers; claims kin with me, through his 
wife, who was a Miss Churchill of Louisville, Ky.), 
Lieutenants Gilmer, Hammond, Warner and Peck,” 
beside many gentlemen of the city. It kept my tongue 
constantly going to keep them entertained, and I 
trust my efforts were not ineffectual, as I think there 
is nothing more pleasing than to see a lady agreeable 
and entertaining in her conversation, and I am sure 
as it is mi alma’s wish that I should excell, it is never 


the state of Missouri, 1848 to 1858. At the outbreak of the war 
with Mexico he was commissioned major of a Missouri battalion 
of artillery. Was in the battle of Sacramento, and during the oc- 
cupation of Chihuahua he took up his quarters in the Palace Li- 
brary. While there he found that the books were not properly 
classified, so with his penchant for doing things thoroughly he 
ordered a detail to do the work properly. He was honorably 
mustered out June 24, 1847. Colonel Clark served in the Con- 
federate Army as colonel and aide-de-camp from 1861 to 1865. 
He married, first, Abigail Churchill, and second, Julia David- 
son. Colonel Clark died at Frankfort, Kentucky, October 28, 
1881. 

68 Lieutenant William Guy Peck was born in Litchfield, Con- 
necticut, October 16, 1820. He was graduated at the United 
States Military Academy in 1844 at the head of his class, and was 
assigned to the topographical engineers; served in the third ex- 
pedition of John C. Fremont through the Rocky Mountains in 
1845. During the war with Mexico he was with the Army of the 
West. He was a mathematician of note, and resigned from the 
army in 1855 to accept the professorship of physics and civil 
engineering in the University of Michigan, remaining there until 
1857, when he accepted a position in Columbia University. He 
was the author of a number of school and text books on mathe- 
matics. He died February 7, 1892. 


144 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


an exertion but the greatest pleasure to make myself 
SO. 

The company of ladies, they say, was not so large 
or select as on some other occasion owing to the death 
of an old gentleman, a few days since, the relation of 
half the city. They were dressed in the Mexican style; 
large sleeves, short waists, ruffled skirts, and no bustles 
—which latter looks exceedingly odd in this day of 
grass skirts and pillows. All danced and smoke cigar- 
rittos, from the old woman with false hair and teeth, 
(Dona Tula), to the little child. “The Cuna”” was 
danced, and was indeed beautiful; it commences with 
only two and ends when the floor gets too full for 
any more to come on—One lady and gentleman 
danced a figure (the name I now forget, but it re- 
sembled the “old Virginia” negro shuffle). We left at 
11 o’clock, and soon after our arrival home it com- 
menced raining hard and this morning it is disagree- 
ably cold, snow is to be seen on the adjacent Moun- 
tains, and we are in the valley living on fine vegetables, 
and most delightful peaches, grapes, melons &c. 

Lieuts. Warner & Hammond called since tea to 
bid us good bye, they are of the Calafornia expedition. 
The latter, (I do not mean to slander him at all) has 
taken a little more of “the ingredient” than he can 
well bear. He constantly talked of the American 


°° The Mexicans’ favorite dance, and appropriately called 
Cuna, or cradle. It is somewhat similar to the waltz. The couple 
stand face to face, the gentleman encircling his partner’s waist 
with both arms, the lady’s similarly disposed, complete the sides 
of the cradle, which is not bottomless, for both parties lean well 
back as they swing around. 


145 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL {sepremper 


women, their strict virtue, which he said could not be 
said of the men, said he had written to his wife all 
about me, and I am afraid the poor woman, if his 
account of the letter is true, will, if she ever sees me, 
be tempted to kill me. Said his was a run away match, 
and they “were married on horse back on top of a 
very high hill.” Talked of his “angel baby,” then flew 
off on to the War, and almost went off into extacies 
on the subject; he is all eagerness for a fight, and says 
he has done all things in his power to provoke one. 
And then he commenced eulogizing every body, flew 
again to what he had written his wife of me, and ran 
on at such a rate I absolutely became frightened, and 
giving mi alma the nod, turned him over and com- 
menced conversation with Warner. How he happened 
to be in such a fix tonight, is strange, for he is a most 
perfect gentleman when sober. 

Friday 25th, The Army is leaving today. Cpts. 
Johnson, Turner and Clark called to bid me farewell, 
and to wish me a prosperous and pleasant journey to 
the South—While “I hoped they might meet with the 
same good fortune in Calafornia and be safely re- 
stored to their happy families.” Three more gentle- 
manly, polite and intelligent men have not entered our 
house in Santa Fé. The Gen. found so much business 
to do he was unable to see me, so he sent his adieus, 
respects &c. by mi alma. 

Saturday 26th. Gabriel Valdez, brother James’ 
brother-in-law arrived this morning with brothers J’s, 
& W’s wagons. He became sick with chills & fever, a 
sickness in which I truly sympathize with him—ex- 

146 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


perience the best of teachers, has taught me that the 
shaking and quaking of bones is not a very agreeable 
sensation. I must therefore turn his nurse and relieve 
if possible a brother sufferer.—First here is “Sap- 
pington’s celebrated fever and ague pills.’’* 

Wrote a letter to Sister Mary”—first since I left 
Independence—rather shameful treatment that I 
must allow, and can only excuse myself by fears as to 
the result of her peculiar situation, having heard not 
one word whether she might be dead or in fine health 
&c. I hesitated long as to my course, and wrote at last 
after reading a long expected letter from Sister Anna, 
in which (dated June 28th) she says “Sister Mary is 
still on her feet—not yet in the straw” accordingly my 


6° About 1840 the most popular medicine in Missouri was Sap- 
pington’s anti-fever pills. Most of the people lived along the 
creeks and in the river bottoms, and suffered from malaria. Dr. 
John Sappington mixed pills, in the preparation of which quinine 
was used. He wrote a book entitled Theory and Treatment of 
Fevers, which was published at Arrow Rock, Missouri, in 1844. 
It was commonly called ‘Sappington on Fevers.” Dr. Sappington 
was one of the most remarkable pioneer citizens and physicians 
of central Missouri of his day; his practice covering a wide area, 
including half a dozen counties in the state and an occasional 
visit to Arkansas. His reputation as a physician extended far 
beyond Missouri. Three of his daughters became, in succession, 
the wives of Claiborne Jackson, governor of Missouri. It is re- 
lated that on the Governor’s asking him for the third daughter, 
the doctor replied: ““Yes, you can have her on one condition, that 
if you lose her, you will not come back for her mother.” 

61 Mary Pindell Shelby, daughter of Isaac Shelby, Jr., born 
May 2, 1822; married Henry Lloyd Tevis, July 5, 1843; died in 
1861. 

147 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL fOOTOBER 


imagination saw her well and a happy & safe termina- 
tion of the long dreaded hour. 

October 1846. Thursday 1st. Oh how dreadfully 
slow this week goes by, and nothing scarcely occurs 
worth noticing. 

Report today says that Gen. Peredes is again at 
the head of government and making all possible pre- 
parations to prosecute the war with vigor. We may 
give what credence to this we please. 

One would think we made entire associates of 
drunken soldiers, if they could have chanced to look 
in here .at two particular times only. While sitting 
here alone this P. M. some one knocked at the door, 
and thinking it a Mexican I had just seen in el patio 
[the yard], I said “passa y Senor” [“come in, Sir” | 
when in staggered a man, I wont say gentleman, with 
“why you speak Spanish already,” and with as much 
familiarity as though he had been an old acquaint- 
ance, and I had never seen him before. Introducing 
himself as “Lieut. Woster® of the Army” and he 
had intended calling on me some time, staggered to a 
seat where he sat and ran on with foolishness and im- 
pudence to which I paid but little attention, and mi 
alma coming in he took him off my hands. He by and 
bye took a notion to start and accordingly got up, 


62 Charles F. Wooster was appointed a cadet to the United 
States Military Academy, from New York, the state of his 
nativity, July 1, 1833. Served as first and second lieutenant from. 
July 1, 1887, to June 10, 1842. He was brevetted captain Febru- 
ary 28, 1847, for gallant and meritorious conduct in the battle of 
Sacramento; and promoted to captain September 27, 1850. 
Captain Wooster died February 14, 1856. 


148 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


staggered about the floor & at length departed. I do 
think some of my countrymen are disgracing them- 
selves here. 

Friday 2nd. News is received today that Peredes is 
not again in power contradicting the report of yester- 
day, but that peace has been made. Gen. Taylor re- 
called from the South, &c. I only hope it may be true, 
*tis too soon for us to have received the news from the 
USS. 

We will start on though in a few days with good 
faith believing all things for the best. The greatest 
fears is of Indians, who still continue their mischief, 
in the Rio Bajo, driving off stock, and killing the in- 
habitants if they have the opportunity, notwithstand- 
ing the troops now among them. 

Monday 5th. My back is like a broken stick, I can’t 
do work of any kind but that it cripples me up like a 
rheumatic—we start tomorrow and as usual, there is 
much to be done. I’ve packed and packed, and besides 
have partly made a dress for the road; this is an other 
piece of trouble, cutting, fitting &c &c. 

I am most tired of Santa Fé & do not regret leav- 
ing. 

Tuesday 6th. Well we cannot leave today, not 
exactly ready. 

Wednesday 7th. Camp No. 1. El rancho de Del- 
gado. Lo, we are camping again! and after all it is 
quite as good as staying in Santa Fé. I was impatient 
to leave. Gabriel [Valdez] and William [Magoffin] 
are with us now. The wagons are all on ahead, and 
we'll not reach them yet for some days. Left Santa 

149 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL (OCT GEER 


Fé about 12 o’k. came on fifteen miles to this place— 
a little farm, called a rancho—rather a poor place, 
only a little corn, beans, and an abundance of chile 
verde [green pepper |, a few goats, sheep and jacks— 
the beast of all work—they pack wood on them, ride 
them, take all their little “fixings” to market in 
baskets or bags swung on the long-eared animals back 
&c &c. We camped pretty near the house and of course 
the peepers are not a few. 

The women stand around with their faces awfully 
painted, some with red which shines like greese, and 
others are daubed over with flour-paste. The men 
stand off with crossed arms, and all look with as much 
wonder as if they were not people themselves. 

It is quite cool and our little tent is comfortable 
enough—it is a fine thing. 

Thursday 8th. As we advance farther South more 
civilization on a small scale is to be seen in the dress of 
the people, manners, houses &ec. 

Friday 9th. The boys have been out all day with 
their guns trying to shoot grullas (sand hill crains) 
which abound here in the river bottom, feeding off 
the rancho cornfields—but they returned to be laughed 
at only—They shot, each, some eight or ten times only, 
and good sights too, but all were fruitless. 

The “table-planes of Mexico,” of which from my 
youngest school-girl days, I have heard so much, are 
full in view now—rather different though from what 
I had expected to see—instead of the perfect plains 
rising like regular steps one above an other—a plain 
is only seen in the distance, on arriving at which by 
descending into a valley, and then rising to the top of 

150 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


a hill—you find almost a mountain, uneven and rough 
travelling—little bushes & cedar trees of small growth 
—We have much pulling through sand and we stop 
earlier tonight, on the bank of the Rio del Norte—it 
resembles the Mississippi much, muddy and dark, the 
banks are low, with no trees—we are buying wood 
every day—a small arm-full for wn real. 

A parcel of Indians are around the tent peeping in 
at me and expressing their opinions. It is a novel sight 
for them. These are the Pueblos or descendants of the 
original inhabitants—the principal cultivators of the 
soul—supplying the Mexican inhabitants with fruits, 
vegetables &c. 

Saturday 10th. In passing through a little town this 
A. M. called Sandia, my Indian friend—the one who 
called to see me once in Santa Fé—who lives there, the 
big man—head chief among the tribe, stoped the car- 
riage and pressed us to get out and go into his house— 
he had been expecting and preparing for us. We had 
no time for this though—and only accepted some 
grapes at the carriage—he with his family, squaw & 
children saw us eat them, with pleased faces, and after 
a little compensation we left them. 

Report comes to us that Brother James has been 
robbed of all his things, carriage, mules, trunk, clothes 
&c &c. by the Apache Indians and escaped with his life 
only—how he escaped is a miracle to us. In robbing 
they always want the scalps, the principal part of the 
business. 

I hope it is all a falsehood—though every person 
we meet confirms it. The last we heard he was in the 

151 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL (OOvOw aR 


little town at the Pass of the Del Norte—without a 
hat. 

We have fine grulla today—our hunters have better 
luck today. ‘They are tender and nice after being boiled 
nearly all night—the meat is black as pea fowls. 

Sunday 11th. Started out on a little walk this morn- 
ing, but it was cut short by the little sand burrs stick- 
ing to my feet and dress till I was entirely unable to 
walk; they are quite as sharp and hurt as much as 
briers. I stoped and called for Jane to come to my 
assistance—after a long time she succeeded in picking 
them out. My fingers are sore now with the little 
thorns. 

Passing through one of the little towns, Alba- 
querque we stoped for a few moments at the store of 
Don Raphel Armijo, which notwithstanding the Sab- 
bath was opened. 

While they were counting some money mt alma was 
receiving, I steped in to take a look at the premises. 
The building is very spacious, with wide portals in 
front. Inside is the patio, the store occupying a long 
room on the street—and the only one that I was in. 
This is filled with all kinds of little fixings, dry sey 
groceries, hard-ware &c. 

Over took Brother James’s wagons this P. M. 

Monday 12th. Stoped to noon it today for the first 
time since we started. The pulling has been altogether 
through sand & of course the animals are quite fa- 
tigued, and after a hard pull of two miles through 
entire sand, they fare much better to stop. Our resting 
place is on the river bank opposite to an Indian village 
on the other side, and the warriors and squaws are 

152 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


coming over in flocks to see the wonderful objects of 
curiosity—They bring things to sell—eggs, sandias, 
tortillas, grapes and the like. They wish to trade for 
bottles instead of money. They readily give four bits 
a piece for an empty bottle, making a fine proffit for 
the owners. We can buy in the States the filled bottles 
for three or four dollars a dozen, drink the liquor, and 
then sell the empty bottles for six dollars per doz. 
They peep into the carriage at me, and talk among 
themselves, and are altogether curious in their in- 
quiries of how some things about the carriage and my 
clothes are made. 

We camp tonight in a large piece of woodland be- 
longing to some of the Chavez’s—the ricos of New 
Mexico. The trees are all cotton-woods, which I sup- 
pose from the sterility of the soil, are much stinted 
and from the manner of their situation they resemble 
an apple orchard—and especially from a distant sight. 

Tuesday 13th. Noon. This morning we called to see 
the widow of Don Mariano Chaviz,** who was one of 
the chief men in New Mexico till his death, about a 
year since. His wealth was immense, and his lands (for 


6$ Don Mariano Chavez y Castillo was of the most wealthy 
and influential family in New Mexico. He was a gentleman of 
rare qualities and a leading citizen. Don Chavez was acting 
governor of New Mexico in 1835, and was one of five citizens 
nominated in 1845, from whom it was arranged a central govern- 
ment should select a permanent governor, but he died five weeks 
after the nomination. It is said that he aided Col. Cooke’s division 
of Texas prisoners, by supplying them with provisions and cloth- 
ing. His wife also is said to have supplied comforts to the Texans, 
having crossed the river from the village of Padillas, the place of 
their residence. (Gregg, Commerce of the Prairies, vol. 2, p. 172.) 


153 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL foCTOnME 


Mexico) were improved accordingly. The house is 
very large—the sala measuring some — feet. This is 
well furnished with handsome Brussles carpet, crim- 
son worsted curtains, with gilded rings and cornice, 
white marble slab pier tables—hair and crimson 
worsted chairs, chandelebras. And all the Mexicans 
have the greatest passion for framed pictures and 
looking-glasses. In this room of Chavez’s house are 
eight or ten gilt-framed mirrors all around the wall. 
Around the patio are chambers, store-room, kitchen 
and others. All is exceedingly neat and clean. 

La Senora met us and opened the great door, she 
was very polite, friendly, and invited us to spend 
sometime with her. All was with true hospitality, and 
I truly regret we were not able to do so. 

We had more squaws to see us this morning—they 
came trading with tortillas; cebollas [onions] water- 
melons, and manzanas [apples]. Bottles are their 
great passion, and especially thick black ones. One old 
woman took a fancy to me, and so we got to trading. 
Mi alma told her he did not want her to have it, (in a 
joke only) but Z made him give it, it pleased her so 
much she called me “comadre” [godmother]: all the 
time, and on separating we parted almost like old 
friends. She presented me with some tortillas. I war- 
rant if I should see her ten years hence she would 
recollect her “Comadre” and the black bottle. We hear 
that Calafornia has been taken by Com. Stockton,” 


®* Robert Field Stockton was born in Princeton, New Jersey, 
August 20, 1795, and died there October 7, 1866. He entered the 
navy as midshipman September 1, 1811, and served in the War 
of 1812. December 8, 1838, he was promoted to the rank of 


154 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


and that Gen. Kearny will send all his men back, save 
one hundred dragoons as his body-guard principally. 
A vague rumor also comes that Gen. Wool” has taken 
Chihuahua. 


captain, while sailing with Commodore Hull in the Mediterranean 
Squadron. October, 1845, found him commander-in-chief of the 
Pacific Squadron, on the eve of the Mexican War. Commodore 
Stockton assumed command of all the American forces on the 
coast by proclamation, July 23, 1846. Organizing a civil govern- 
ment in California, he appointed John C. Fremont governor. On 
January 17, 1847, he started homeward, and on May 28, 1850, 
resigned from the navy. He was elected to the United States 
Senate in 1851, served two years, resigned and retired to private 
life. 

Commodore Stockton always took an interest in politics, and 
also in the turf. He imported from England some of the finest 
stock of blooded horses. ) 

6° John Ellis Wool, born in Newburgh, New York, February 
20, 1784; died November 10, 1869. Raising a company of volun- 
teers in Troy, he was commissioned captain in the 13th United 
States Infantry, April 14, 1812. He greatly distinguished him- 
self at Queenstown Heights, October 13, 1812, and on Sep- 
tember 11, 1814, he received the brevet of lieutenant-colonel for 
gallantry. On April 26, 1816, he was made inspector-general of 
the army with the rank of colonel. Colonel Wool was sent abroad 
in 1882 to inspect the military establishments of Europe for the 
benefit of the United States. On June 25, 1841, he was appointed 
brigadier-general. At the beginning of the Mexican War he was 
active in preparing volunteer forces for the field. He was General 
Zachary Taylor’s second in command at Buena Vista. For gal- 
lant and meritorious conduct in that battle he was brevetted 
major-general February 28, 1847, and for his services during 
the war with Mexico Congress awarded him a vote of thanks and 
a sword of honor. From 1848-1853 he was in command of the 
eastern division of the army, and from 1854-1857 of the depart- 
ment of the Pacific, putting an end to Indian disturbances in 


155 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL _jocroszr 


Wednesday 14th In our travel today we have met 
many Indians with their backs loaded with muchas 
cosas a vender [many things to sell]. They fill their 
serapes—| Mexican shawls or wraps for men] with 
whatever it may be, and start off in the trot natural 
to the Indian, and it is a remarkable thing that nearly 
every Mexican (of the lower class) and the Indians 
are either knock-kneed or pigeon-toed. And they have 
such an odd way, when asked where and how far to 
such a place, of tooting out their lips in the direction 
of the place, with a pigish grunt and cwenta [ answer |. 

Thursday 15th. Came up with our wagons today at 
Noon. All is going on smoothly. Nooned it near the 
River, and as usual had some of the country people 
to see us. We are kept constantly supplied with eggs 
and small fruits. The apples all seem to be of one kind, 
and are not good, having a sickening sweet taste and 
very tough. 

I have opened a regular mantua makers [ dress- 
maker’s] shop on the Plains. I am sewing on a dress 
every day at noon and will soon finish it. And I must 
not wear it out before I get home either—for I wish 
them to see that I have been doing some thing else 


Washington and Oregon territories. General Wool had charge of 
the Department of the East in 1860, and at the opening of the 
war between the states saved Fortress Monroe by timely rein- 
forcements, afterwards commanding there at the head of the 
Department of Virginia. He was promoted major-general in May, 
1862, and retired from active service August 1, 18638, being long 
past the age of retirement. General Wool was a rigid discipli- 
narian and had no superior in the United States as an organizer 
of troops. 


156 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


than roll along idly in the carriage. . . . Came up 
with Mr. Harmony’s wagons this P. M. 

Saturday 17th. Left our last night’s camp this 
morning, came only about a mile, over an ugly hill and 
sandy road—this side found a fine place for the ani- 
mals and stoped for the whole day, “as we are in no 
hurry.” There is a little town near to us and we are 
living on the fine Mexican tortillas—and they are fine 
indeed they are.—The process of making them is 
worth knowing—the corn is first soaked in ley [lime] 
till the husk is off, ’tis then mashed into a paste with a 
large flat stone and a small roller made for the pur- 
pose; this mixture is passed into the hands of a second 
woman (by whom they are always made) from the 
hands of the first, and is made into round cakes like 
our batter-cakes, and thrown on to a griddle of thin 
iron or stone; in a few minutes they are done through 
and the third person, in a napkin takes them on to the 
table, where with a good dish of Frijoles®* or any thing 
of the kind, one does not eat a bad dinner. 

Sunday 18th. This day has been passed at the same 
camping place of yesterday, resting the animals for a 


66 “Pronounced freeholeys by the Mexicans. From the simi- 
larity in the pronounciation, the Americans always called them 
freeholders. A species of dark beans of large size, stewed or fried 
in mutton fat and not too highly seasoned, wind up the sub- 
stantial part of a dinner, breakfast, or supper, and seldom is 
this favorite and national dish omitted. In fact frijoles, especially 
to the lower order of Mexicans, are what potatoes are to the Irish 
—they can live very well so long as they have them in abundance, 
and are lost without them. A failure of the bean crop in Mexico 
would be looked upon as a national calamity.” (Kendall, Narrative 
of Texan Santa Fé Expedition, vol. 1, p. 81.) 


157 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL [OCTOBER 


long pull we are to have in a few days without water— 
a hard drive.—Had a visit from some of the elite here, 
this morning. They are real old comadres, with few 
teeth and gray hairs, one of the young ones brought 
her baby—they asked if I had one and when I said no, 
they asked how long I had been married, and on my 
telling her a year, they opened their eyes with a “mut 
muchachita’ [very young girl]. They are very young 
to be asking me such questions. 

Though very inquisitive and prying, I can perceive 
some thing more of refinement in them than those of 
the settlements nearer to Santa Fe. Take them all to- 
gether they are certainly the most inquiring, prying, 
searching people I ever saw. 

Tuesday 20th. More of the natives to see me this 
morning. Three of them came—with a little one of 
course—just as I was starting out on a walk in the 
cotton-wood orchard, and turned me back. They 
talked about all things—took hold of, and examined 
the dress I am making—thought it some thing entirely 
new. 3 

W ednesday 21st. We have come to a new camping 
ground six miles farther on. It is near to an other little 
town and the people are coming and squatting all 
around the tent door to see the little concerns within. 
There is one man of middle age, the curiosity of the 
crowd; he is waiting to escort the remainder of the 
troops coming with Capt. Cook,” to Calafornia—He 


°7 Philip St. George Cooke was born at Leesburg, Virginia, 
June 18, 1809. Graduated from West Point in 1827. His first 
active service was in the Black Hawk War, being in the battle of 
Bad Axe August 1, 1882. The next year he was commissioned 


158 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


is a considerable oddity and apparently a great friend 
of the Americans—talked much of Gen. Kearny and 
some of his officers—mi querido [my darling] told 
him to get a superior mule, and all things attendant, 
that Armijo was coming to take possession again, that 
he would the first thing call out los, amigos de los 
Americanos [the friends of the Americans |—his 
name would come in no. one on the paper, and if his 
steed was not the quickest, his eyes the sharpest, the 
next thing would be “mata la’ fuera con el [kill him— 
away with him]. He winked slightly and cutting up 
his mule called out “never mind me”—a grand scamp 
—he is prepared with all things and Armijo is a sharp 
man ever to catch him. 

Thursday 22nd. Mirabile dictu [wonderful to re- 
late], how these people annoy me. This whole after- 
noon I have been sitting here, an object of curiosity 
lieutenant of the Dragoons, and saw much service on the plains. 
During the Mexican War he was with Kearny in New Mexico 
and California; was detailed by Kearny to carry a letter to 
Governor Armijo, and to serve as escort for James Magoffin. 
Returning from California he entered the city of Mexico, in 
1848, with General Scott’s army. During the fifties he served on 
the Kansas frontier. At the outbreak of the war between the 
states he decided for the Union, and commanded the cavalry in 
the Peninsula Campaign. At the close of the war he commanded 
the departments of the Platte and the Great Lakes. He retired 
in 1873, having served continuously for forty-six years. He was 
brevetted lieutenant-colonel February 20, 1847, for meritorious 
conduct in California; and major-general March 13, 1865, for 
gallant and meritorious service during the war between the states. 
A daughter of General Cooke became the wife of J. E. B. Stuart, 
afterwards famous as a cavalry leader and general in the Con- 
federate Army. 


159 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL recreate 


to them—querida mio [my darling] was reading to 
me when they commenced flocking about the tent and 
we thought for him to continue they would soon leave, 
but it only attracted them more, and in a few minutes 
they were peeping under the sides of the tent, which 
had been raised to let in the air—as thick as some 
flocks of sheep and goats I see here. 

They whispered among themselves, picked at my 
dress—a great curiosity—fingered the bed clothes, the 
stools, and in short every thing “en la casa bonita” [in 
the pretty house] as they call this. Here they staid 
and apparently with the intention of remaining till 
the dark curtain of night should hide me from their 
view, till mi alma got up and ordered the tent to be 
staked down, and they went off to think and talk for 
the next muchos anos [many years ]. 

Friday 23rd. Moved camp today three miles—the 
road is entirely of sand and exceedingly hard pulling 
and as we are in but a very little hurry only, we are 
moving very slowly. Mr. Harmony has crossed the 
river with his wagons and we are alone now, at least 
for a few days at least. 

I’ve made the good graces of another old comadre 


this morning—an old half Indian, half Mexican—she © 


came in soon after we stretched the tent, and sat a good 
long half hour or more. We talked of all family con- 
cerns from the children down to the dogs. She asked 
if I had mother, father &c. and said I had run off from 
them “just for a husband,’ but I laughed and said 
“neres es mejor nos” [ Well, is it not better], and with 
a hearty laugh she assented both to this and my other 
little question “el marido es todo del mundo a los 
160 


0 ee ee ee ‘ 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


mujeres” [the husband is the whole world to women]. 
She thinks though I am young, I am old enough. 

An express comes to us this evening from all the 
traders camped below us some thirty miles, with intel- 
ligence that a large force is coming up from Chi- 
huahua to take us—that they themselves are about 
corraling together and sinking their wagon wheels to 
the hubs for a breast-work in case of an attack—that 
they have taken the men, whom they suspicion as spies, 
prisoners—rather a bold step for peaceable traders 
to take. i 

And the Express went on to Santa Fé, with a letter 
to Col. Donathan [ Doniphan ], the officer in command 
there, to send down his troops, who are set apart for 
Chihuahua to protect them. They say all communica- 
tion has been stoped at “the pass” by the Mexican 
troops there, no one is allowed to go in or to come out, 
and the traders on this side are determined to play the 
same game, and let no one pass their encampment, 
whom they in the least suspicion as carrying intelli- 
gence to the Mexican army. 

Saturday 24th. V’ve had a real tramp this morning 
through the mud, sliping down the River bank, jump- 
ing the saquia [ acequia—ditch or canal], which last, 
by the way, is quite a feat—and in fine doing all sorts 
of wonders of the kind. It has been my desire through 
curiosity only to get onto a sand-bar in the River, so 
soon after breakfast, notwithstanding the wet grounds 
from last night’s heavy rain, I put on my rubbers and 
sallied forth. The first adventure was a long slide 
down the slippy bank of the saquia—completely 
mired. I found some difficulty in again recovering my 

161 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL Oona 


balance—this completed however, although tired 
enough to have come home, I clambered up the oppo- 
site bank—steeper than the other but not so slippy, 
after two or three other ups and downs I found myself 
standing on a sand-bar and the wide Rio Grande cur!l- 
ing its dark waters around me. There is something 
wildly sublime in the wild deep murmur of a mighty 
river, as it rolls by us with stately pride, its course 
pending to the fearful Ocean. 

An other Express comes from the camp of Mr. 
Harmony still behind us, to know what to do; he is 
frightened at the News of yesterday. We hear he is 
about to cash his goods and returning to Santa Fé, 
and we, what shall we do, if the Mexican troops should 
come upon us, we must make a corral of our own, 
sink our wheels &c. 

Sunday 25th. Moved our tent today to an other spot 
—and are lying by till some news is received to justify 
our travelling on. The day has been passed in reading 
my “Bible,” “the writings of Josephus,” and “Mor- 
ris’s Sermons.” The author of the latter work, is a 
bishop in the Methodist church—a resident of Cin- 
cinnati. They are plain of speech, though beautiful— 
his motives all seem of the purest and most faithful. 
And if the hearers and readers of these Sermons would 
but hear and see profitably the good way in which they 
should walk, pointed out to them by this good man, 
how many would be the souls saved, and crowns pre- | 
pared for him in Heaven! 

An other old comadre has been to see me this eve- 

®8 Sermons On Various Occasions, the author being Thomas 
Asbury Morris, a bishop in the Methodist Episcopal Church. 

162 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


ning—like the rest of her kind she is curious, and loves 
to talk—the old lady gave my neck a stinging pinch 
to see if it was truly as fat as it looks to be, and it sur- 
prised her to find it so solid. 

Tuesday 27th. How impatiently we are waiting 
the return of the Express from Santa Fé to see and 
hear the news. 

This has been a dark, gloomy, rainy day—dquite 
enough to give one the hippo, even the sage and philo- 
sophical face of mi alma is elongated at least an inch— - 
and what must my case be! phaw, what nonsense! 

Wednesday 28th. A little Mexican boy of nine or 
ten years came this morning to mi alma to buy him. 
His story though affecting is soon told.—Three years 
since the Apache Indians beside depredations to other 
families, murdered his father (his mother was then 
dead) and carried him off prisoner. After three years 
of hard servitude among them, the little fellow ran off 
and found his way to the house of an old Mexican, who 
resides here on the bank of the River in a lone hut-the 
picture of misery. Here this boy has been for two 
months under the fostering care of the old compadre 
[ godfather |, but growing weary of this life, which was 
not better than that with the Indians, he now wishes 
to be bought with the swm of $7.00 which he owes the 
old man for his protection. Tomorrow the money is to 
be paid & hence forth Francisco is our servant. 


N oviembre, 1846. En San Gabriel. 


Tuesday 17th. You have been sadly neglected, my 
poor journal, this last three weeks. I have been sick 
with fever and you have layed quietly and patiently 

163 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL NOVEMBER: 


on the shelf till now. I was sick in the tent several days 
taking medicine all the time, and on getting a little 
better mz alma rented a house here in the village and 
moved me to it. A physician was sent for to the camp 
of the traders below us, and Dctr. Simpson” of the 
dragoons, came to my relief. He prescribed blue pills, 
oil and other nauseating doses, and though they re- 
lieved me some, the chief cure was “Detr. Sapping- 
ton’s Pills,” which I must ever eulogize as a medicine 
of fine qualities. One box of them administered by mz 
alma cured me, or at least broke the fever. After great 
prostration of body I am again creeping about. 

In the mean time what has happened at home and 
abroad. One thing I have had a letter from home, yes, 
all the way from Lex.[ington, Kentucky]! It bears 
date as late as the 10th of Sept., and brings good news 
respecting every thing; it almost makes me long to 
be there, they seem so happy—But I won’t be im- 
patient, if we live, the time is coming around for us to 
be together again. 

No news is yet received of Gen. Wool’s arrival at. 
Chihuahua, and the traders are likely to be detained 
here all the winter from all appearances. No express 
has been sent—no one is allowed to go into the Pass 
or to come out, and we are in rather a dumb predica- 
ment. If we remain here during the winter, I must 
learn a good many of the New Mexican ways of liv- 
ing, manufacturing serapes, rabozos, to make tortillas, 


°° Dr. Richard French Simpson, born in Virginia; entered the 
army from that state as assistant surgeon, August 1, 1840, and 
was commissioned major surgeon June 28, 1860. Dr. Simpson 
died July 4, 1861. 


164 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


chily peppers, and cholote [chocolate], which by the 
way I do know a little something about—I made my- 
self a passable cup this afternoon. 

W ednesday 18th. This is the first day I have dined 
at table for two whole weeks. I found my way out as 
dinner came in, and sat down to table. Our dinner of 
chily with carne de carnero [mutton], stewed chicken 
with cibollas [cebollas—onions]|, and a dessert made 
of bread and grapes, a kind of pudding I suppose, 
was furnished by our landlord and lady. This is a 
great feast day with the good people of the village, 
and they have been preparing their danties for a 
week. This morning Don José, the owner of our house, 
came and told us to cook no dinner, and as we obeyed 
his command, at noon he brought us the repast just 
named. 

Tonight the Priestly portion of the community fol- 
lowed by a crowd, has paraded the patron St. of San 
Gabriel, with the cross bourn before it, around the 
plazo, which was-illuminated by many small heaps of 
burning wood and torches bourn by the procession. 
As I could not go out, I saw from our door the whole 
proceeding; the music I believe consisted of a kind of 
drum, violins and I suppose the ever constant accom- 
paniament of the triangle, though I could not distin- 
guish it at that distance. The procession is broken up 
now, and all have gone off to the bayle [batle—ball], 
monte &ec. 

It is rather odd to see the women coming from other 
towns in ox-carts, alias, Rio Baja steamboats. The 
whole family, wife, children, servants, dogs and all 
get, or rather pile themselves, up in the vehicle of all 

165 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL NOY ae 


work and the dueno de todos [their lord and master ], 
with his long pole gets his horned animals under way, 
and off they start squeaking, squealing, barking an 
other noises accompaning such crowds. Once into 
town they begin to Jump out, or pulled out, turned 
_ and tumbled out, and a happier set never got together. 

But my new house as yet goes undescribed. Here 
is the long sala or hall common to all the houses,—it 
has a nice little fire place in one corner, a door opens, 
at the same end into a room, which we have not the 
use of. I dare say though it is nicely whitened and kept 
in fine order—perhaps ’tis used as a sitting room by 
the family when they are [all together], now ’tis occu- 
pied by the sundries of the house-hold, and kept 
locked. At the opposite end of the sala are two doors, 
—one opens into a fine nice little kitchen—this is as 
white and nice about the walls as any part of the estab- 
lishment—it has in it what I have seen for the first 
time in my life, viz. the stones used in grinding corn 
for tortillas, called mola stones. They are wedge- 
shaped, some eighteen inches in length by six or eight 
in breadth—the next thing is to see some of the natives 
at work with them. 

The next place is my bed-room—a cozy little place 
it is, walls covered with pink rosetts, pictures, two or 
three paintings of Saints, and two waxen figures each 
about twelve inches in height. One is some saint; the 
other represents our Savior’s mother, with a crown on 
her head, and standing with her hands raised as if in 
the act of blessing some poor mortal. There is one 
window and this is filled in with izing-glass, which I 
suppose they find out in the hills as we do in the states. 

166 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


Take the whole together we have quite comfortable 
winter quarters if we are compelled to remain in New 
Mexico during the whole winter. 

Wednesday 25th. A memorable day this, the anni- 
versary of our wedding—and though perhaps already 
forgotten by many present at the ceremony that made 
the “twain one,” still *twill ever be fresh in the minds 
of those most concerned. Yes, we have been married a 
whole year today! and what a short one it has been. 
Mrs. Green would say ’tis the novelities of matrimony 
that has made it so. Whether that or those of travel- 
ling—for we have not been stationary any time since 
that event—I know not but this I do know that I can- 
not remember one as short. And it has been a happy 
one too. I shall be contented if all we pass together are 
like it. Have written to Aunt Susan today,” first time 
since we left. . 

Thursday 26th. The wife and daughter of Don 
José, the owner of this house, came today with their 
mola stone and corn to show me how to make tortillas. 
What a deal of trouble it is too. I had not thought half 
the work. The corn had been previously soaked in lay 
till the husk was off, and it made some what soft. She 
placed a handfull or two on the stone, which is some 
what hollow in the center, about eighteen inches in 
length, and a foot wide. With an other oblong stone 
of some eight or ten pounds weight, she continued (on 

70 Susanna Shelby, daughter of Governor Isaac Shelby, born 
in 1791, died 1868. She married four times: first, James Mc- 
Dowell; second, James Shannon, minister to Mexico and chargé 


d’affairs to Central America; third, Col. John McKinney; and, 
fourth, Rev. James Fishback. 


167 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL NOVEMBER 


her knees all the time, a position most fatiguing to the 
back and indeed the whole frame) to rub the corn up 
and down on the other till it was ground to a paste. 
This was slipped off onto a broad, and thin piece of 
iron lying at the other end of the stone, more corn was 
put on and ground till the whole stew panful disap- 
peared. The [entire ] mass was now put on and ground 
still finer, being occasionally wetted with a little water. 
A third time it was put on, and as she ground she 
divided it into little pieces the size of a biscuit, each of 
which were taken from the plate, now supplying the 
place of the sheet of iron, which was now placed over 
the fire as a griddle, by an other senorita and patted — 
out into the tortillas. She greased the griddle a little, 
and layed one on it, she turned this over several times 
while she patted out an other which took the place of 
the cooked one, now layed on a plate. In this way the 
whole mass was disposed of. When they were finished 
the good lady presented me with a plate full of fine 
tortillas. I have now seen the whole operation from 
beginning to end. The old lady also brought over her 
knitting, which like the tortillas is done in a way te- 
dious enough, notwithstanding, for curiosity to those 
at home, I learned how she did it. On showing her the 
much easier mode of the U. S. she seemed much sur- 
prised and delighted. | 
Saturday 28th. Mi alma has opened a bale of calicos, 
and the women of the village like children in a toy shop 
are nearly run crazy. They are coming in by the dozen 
for several days, and it seems they cannot see or buy 
enough. The whole bale of some forty-five pieces, will 
not last many days longer, I imagine. The flashy 
168 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


colours take best, and how the husbands are obliged 
to bring in their money, bags of corn, flour &c &c. 


December, 1846. 


Tuesday 1st. News comes in very ugly today. An 
Englishman from Chihuahua, direct, says that the 
three traders, Dr. Conley, Mr. McMannus and 
brother James, who went on ahead to C. have been 
taken prisoners, the two former lodged in the calaboza 
[| calabozo—jail] while Brother James is on a trial for 
his life, on account of his interview with Armijo at 
Santa Fé, which they say was one cause of the latter’s 
having acted as he did in regard to the American 
Army—and also on account of a letter from President 
Polk introducing him to Gen. Wool and saying he 
had resided in the country some time and might per- 
haps be of service to him in his operations. This makes 
him appear in their eyes something as a spy, though 
his intentions were of an entire different nature, and 
his motives, his feelings to all parties of the purest 
kind. ’Tis a hard case and distressing to us; how, or 
when, or where ’twill end is unknown to us. Let us 
hope and pray, therefore, that our Almighty Father, 
The Just Judge will be with him, and deliver him from 
the hands of his enemies. 

We also learn that Gen. Taylor has taken Mon- 
teray, after a very severe battle, in which he lost one- 
sixth of his little army of six thousand men; that there 
is now a cessation of arms for eight weeks, which time 
has now expired, as it commenced the first of Oct. 

Wednesday 2nd. No news today more than a con- 
firmation of that we heard yesterday, we are lying 

169 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL (DECEMBER 


here in a state of silent anxiety, what a day may bring 
forth we know not, tomorrow may turn us back to 
Santa Fe. 

Thursday 8rd. A man from the Pass comes with 
news that a large army is coming from Chihuahua to 
carry us off prisoners and to retake New Mexico— 
that Gen. Wool has been ordered to join Gen. Taylor, 
and that on Sabbath last they were to have had a battle 
with Santa Anna himself, the last one having been 
fought by Gen. Ampudia”—Santa Anna has been 
long preparing for this, and will doubtless render 
Gen. Taylor’s strongest efforts necessary to save him- 
self from defeat. He also bring news that Gen. Wool 
has been ordered to join Taylor, and that the Chi- | 
huahuans are in consequence coming on to us with a 
large force. 

If this be true, and news should come that 'Taylor’s 
army had been defeated, we will certainly have to re- 
trace our steps to Santa Fé and enter Fort Marcy for 
safety, for twill inspire this fickle people with such 
confidence as to his superior and almost immortal skill 


™1 General Pedro Ampudia was a Cuban by birth. He joined 
the Mexican Army in 1842, and served at the head of a regiment 
during the Texan-Mexico War. He fought several battles against 
the army of Texas, capturing Generals Fisher, Green, and Mur- 
ray. During the war with the United States General Ampudia 
was in command of the army of the north, and capitulated at 
Monterey to the Americans. Because of this surrender he was 
court-martialed by Santa Anna, but was acquitted and reinstated 
as general. He fought against the Americans at Angostura, and 
against the French Army during the War of Intervention. He 
died August 7, 1868. (From information supplied by Benja- 
min M. Read of Santa Fé, New Mexico.) 


170 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


that en mass they will rise on our heads and murder us 
without regard. This is rather a dark picture to be 
painting. 

Sunday 6th. An other Sabbath day has been per- 
mitted to pass over our heads, and has it departed 
without doing some good, without making one solemn 
impression on my mind as to its holiness. Have I “re- 
membered the Sabbath day to keep it holy.” I fear 
justice will raise her hand against me. I have read my 
Bible ’tis true, (and religious books), but not, I fear, 
with that fervent longing for and praying for light to 
see my way clearly, to be guided in the strait and nar- 
row way that leads to life eternal. 

I have not clung to it and poured over it with that 
thirsting desire to believe in and to see the face of the 
Lamb that sittith in Judgment, that is by him re- 
quired of one who would see his face. [ have not prayed 
with sufficient fervour to have my weak faith strength- 
ened, my preseverance to find religion increased—to 
have this “stony heart taken away and to receive a 
heart of flesh.” I have joined in merry and useless con- 
versation. I have spent time foolishly that should have 
been spent in doing good. I have “left undone those 
things which I should have done, and have done those 
things which I ought not to have done.” When con- 
science tells me that this is true, a Just condemnation, 
what must be the wrathful sentence of my Judge 
above? Let me flee and hide myself from the thought 
and “seek relief in prayer.” 


Tuesday 8th. 


Thursday 11th. We learn today that Col. Dona- 
171 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL rranchuactatey 


phan, the officer left in command by Gen. Kearny, 
has returned from the Navijoe [Navaho] country,” 
where he has for some time been engaged in making 
a treaty, and is now preparing to march on to Chi- 
huahua, to meet Gen. Wool, who we learn by an other 
post from the U. S. is on his march there, instead of 
being with Gen. 'Taylor as we heard. 

The traders, except ourselves, are on fire for him 
to start, as they can then follow. Mz alma, who perhaps 
has more knowledge of the people and country than 
any of them, thinks ’twill be a rash step for him to 
leave here before he has heard positively by an express 
from Wool himself, that he is near to Chihuahua. He 
may be misinformed as this news comes not from Govy- 
ernment, and if he should march on and even take the 
city he cannot hold it with fifteen hundred men. Why 
the whole State, which is neither small or thinly popu- 
lated, would rise against him in a day, and not only his 
whole force cut off, but the traders along with him. 
Will he walk into the calabozo, rather a different place 
from the mint into which they are going—‘“cuindado”’ 
[ “caution” ], I think should rather be their motto. We 


72 The treaty was signed November 22, 1846. In the negotia- 
tions a young chief named Sarcillo Largo represented the Indians, 


and Doniphan, through an interpreter, the United States. The 


latter explained to them that by reason of the conquest of New 
Mexico by the United States, the Indians, as well as other in- 
habitants, became subjects of that government; that the govern- 
ment would not permit the warfare which was constantly going 
on to be continued, and unless they would agree upon terms, he 
was instructed to make war upon them. These Indians observed 
the treaty for a short while, but, on the whole, it proved of little 
value. 


Le 


i a el hy ar on 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


shall remain here, if he goes alone, and if the thing 
ends well, then we can follow immediately, if not we 
are near enough to retreat to Fort Marcy. 

William is very sick with fever, a dctr. sent for from 
the soldiers’ camp below. 

Tuesday 15th. I am merchant today. Mi alma has 
gone over the River to see some of the troops now 
passing down to join Col. Donaphan, and also to find 
a physician to see William, who continues, notwith- 
standing much physicing, very sick. . . . Some women 
came in to purchase dresses, but we could not agree 
as to the price. One of them in particular was a hard 
customer, but I think she found her equal. I did not 
yield one pedazo [bit] in the price, although she in- 
sisted that mi alma sold for less,—which was a mistake 
by the way,—and I told her it was wrong 7f he let 
calico go for two bits, when the price was dos e media 
[two and a half], and that because he did it I could 
not. So she concluded to wait till he comes. It is my 
simple opinion she will find the same hard case to 
deal with then; ’twill be as hard to persuade him into 
her measures as ‘twas to frighten me. 

The home folks would think me a great favorite, 
if they could see how the good people of the village 
are sending me tortillas, casas [quesos—cheeses ], 
dulces | sweets], and the like. 

I learned last night their mode of giving a sweat. 
The patient is made to sit with his feet in warm water, 
in which has been boiled some wheat-brand, with 
blankets thrown over him till a profuse perspiration 
is produced, assisted by drinking some warm tea or 
hot lemonade. After persevering in this some fifteen 

173 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL nCEMBER 


minutes, he is covered up in bed, some dirt is now put 
into a plate, a little fire on this; a few pounded annice 
seed and black pepers are then thrown onto it, and it 
is set under the bed cloths till the invalid, bed and all 
become perfectly hot from it. It is both a simple and 
good method. 

P. M. Wrote a long letter to Aunt Susan, to send 
off tomorrow, the letter of the 26th Nov. was not sent. 

Dctr. Hope from Col. Mitchell’s® company of vol- 
unteers has arrived, and finds it necessary to give more 
medicine to his patient,—to remain with him tonight. 

W ednesday 16th. ’Tis a pity we cannot govern our 
tempers at all times. Nothing hurts me more than to 
have a cross, ill-tempered servant about me. Jane is 
in a pet this morning has a little more work to do than 
usual. William’s sickness, the dctr’s being here, and 
one of the soldiers who came as an escort to him, of 
course makes a little more cooking and brisk move- 
ments. On giving some necessary directions about 


78 David Dawson Mitchell was born in Louisa County, Vir- 
ginia, July 31, 1806. He came to St. Louis when quite a young 
man and had a long and honorable career in the fur trade, first 
as a clerk and then as a partner in the upper Missouri outfit of 
the American Fur Company. He was the builder of Fort Mc- 
Kenzie in 1832. Colonel Mitchell became United States superin- 
tendent of Indian affairs, Central Division, with headquarters at 
St. Louis, September 20, 1841, and held the position at intervals 
until 1852. He entered the volunteer service during the war with 
Mexico and was elected lieutenant-colonel of the 2d Missouri 
Regiment of Volunteers. Colonel] Mitchell was conspicuous in the 
battle of Sacramento. He married Martha Eliza Berry, daughter 
of Major James Berry of Kentucky, in 1840, and died in St. 
Louis, May 31, 1861. 


174 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


breakfast, without real cause or provocation her in- 
solent answers which I cannot repeat, arose to such an 
extent that for peace sake I was obliged to leave my 
work half done and retire from the kitchen. And how 
shall I tell mi alma of this, if he could have heard it, 
he would be very angry I know.—It is a trifling mat- 
ter, and I shall not trouble him. I can manage my 
- own domestic concerns without worrying his already 
perplexed mind, with my little difficulties. The only 
way to treat a turbulent domestic, is to look above 
them too much to answer them back, or even to hear 
their impudence, till it becomes correctable by the rod. 
In this case I generally have to wait till the effects of 
an extra dram wears off. 

Col. Owens and Mr. Glasgow called this P. M. on 
their way from Santa Fé. The[y] are crazy to get on 
notwithstanding the danger they may be rushing into. 
We learn that Maj. Gilpin™ with some two or three 
hundred volunteers, has gone into the jornada as 
scouts, and will perhaps go on to El Passo, what a 
blind step, when they may meet a large force! 


74 William Gilpin was born in Delaware County, Pennsylvania, 
October 4, 1812. He was educated at the University of Pennsyl- 
vania and United States Military Academy. He served in the 
Seminole War, but afterwards resigned from the army. He settled 
in St. Louis, having charge of the Missouri Argus, and espoused 
the cause of Thomas H. Benton. A few years later he moved to 
Independence, Missouri, and entered the practice of law. 

The troops supplied by the state of Missouri for the Mexican 
War were received by General Kearny at Fort Leavenworth. 
Gilpin wanted to be an officer in that contingent, but was not a 
favorite with General Kearny. However, through gaining en- 
trance as a private to one of the companies, he placed himself in 


175 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL (DECEMBER 


Thursday 17th. William is some what better today, 
the Detr. after spending a day and two nights with 
him, has left, pronouncing him in a fine way to recover. 

We send a boy with the Doctor to bring us what 
news they may have at the lower camp, the move- 
ments of the army &c. &c.—I thought mi alma should 
not know of my difficulty in the kitchen yesterday 
morning, but it would come out. I found her this 
morning dipping into a keg of brandy siting in my 
room, and knowing it to be the cause of her insult, I 
determined to tell him, which determination was 
backed by the fact that I had never concealed anything 
from him, and how could I keep this back? 

Friday 18th. The boy has returned from Col. 
Mitchell’s camp with a letter saying the troops will 
all leave tomorrow for the pass, and the traders will 
follow. ’Tis a momentous time for us; we are alone, 
for they have heedlessly [gone] into the very jaws 
of the enemy. That jornada— (a travel of two or three 
days for those heavy wagons without a drop of water) 
may be called the enemy’s breastwork, the traders are 
going within it, to be cut to pieces perhaps and we are 


position to be chosen by the Volunteers as one of the officers. In 
this manner he succeeded in being elected major of the Ist Regi- 
ment Missouri Volunteers. 

It is said that he was the only man in Jackson County, Mis- 
souri, to vote for Abraham Lincoln in 1860, He was appointed 
by Lincoln governor of Colorado, 1861-1863. On February 12, 
1874, he married Julia Dickerson, a widow, and the daughter of 
Bernard Pratte of St. Louis. Gilpin died in Denver, Colorado, 
January 19, 1894. (Bancroft, History of the Life of William 
Gilpin, San Francisco, 1889.) 


176 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


here ready for them, when they have devoured that 
portion of their prey, to destroy as they please. 

I wonder what tomorrow will bring forth? We'll see. 
Mi alma dispatches an other courier tomorrow early 
to remain with them till something more is to be heard. 

It is a strange people this. They are not to be called 

cowards; take them in a mass they are brave, and if 
they have the right kind of a leader they will stem any 
tide. Take them one by one and they will not flinch 
from danger. This man who goes for mi alma to- 
morrow is a sample. For a very small compensation, 
(which by the way has no weight with him, as he at 
first offered himself to go not for money, but with the 
desire to serve only; the reward I may say is gratis) 
he will go over a road, (perhaps on foot,) infested with 
Indians, by whom he is liable to be murdered at any 
moment,—he will perhaps have no water for some 
days,—at the pass, if he goes so far, he may be taken 
by his own countrymen, and if found in the employ of 
an American he will be shot. I am sure the brand of a 
coward will never stick to him. 

Saturday Morning early 19th. What is the news 
this morning! A man strait from the Pass—he can be 
relied on too, as he lives here, is well known as a man of 
integrity and comes to give the news and to take care 
of his family in case of an attack—says that there are 
actually seven hundred regular dragoons now in the 
Pass, all determined resolute men, and three thousand 
more are leaving Chihuahua to come and take us. 
_ There is our little army of only nine hundred and per- 
haps three hundred of these (Maj. Gilpin’s com- 
mand) are already prisoners and on their march to 

Lae 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL (DECEMBER 


Chihuahua,—if this fource comes against them, and 
there is scarcely a doubt of it, what will be the conse- 
quences—’tis painful to think of 1t—they must all be 
cut to pieces, every thing seized, they march on to ws 
here. I shall be torn from the dearest object to me on 
earth, perhaps both of us murdered, or at best he will 
be put into one prison, while I am sent to an other 
without even my bible, or my poor journal to comfort 
me. But though they may deprive me of these things, 
there are others that they cannot move. I have a soul, 
I have a Savior, the means of prayer are always within 
my reach. It has comforted me more than once—and 


Who that knows the worth of prayer, 
But wishes to be often there. 


If I could but see mi alma easy; he is troubled, does 
nothing but walk the floor waiting for the next intelli- 
gence. I shall be patient and under any circumstances, 
I hope be resigned and collected. Christ himself warns 
us that we must not fear those who can kill and in any 
wise injure the body, and can do nothing to the im- 
mortal soul. But he says “rather fear Ye him who after 
he hath killed hath power to cast into hell.” 

Sunday 20th. The news today is not quite so dis- 
couraging. An other man later from the Pass says 
there are no regular troops there; and only some three 
or four hundred men—that Maj. Gilpin had not, when 
he left there (four days since) arrived; but he has sent 
back by express to Col. Donaphan, that there is 
“plenty of water beyond the jornada.” 'This is not as 
discouraging as we expected yesterday to have heard. 
This man (a Mexican) [Senor Gonzales] is one that 

178 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


escorted brother James down. He was also sent to 
jail from whence he broke out, and came to the Pass, 
where he was retaken and again put in confinement. 
A. second escape though has brought him into the 
American portion of the Republic, where he deems 
himself safe. He has been very persevering in his 
efforts; if Brother James, who he says he left in prison, 
could be as fortunate ‘twould be a very fortunate 
thing. 

Monday 2ist. We have heard nothing new today, 
but are constantly expecting something that will 
either continue us on our journey or turn us back. 

Tuesday 22nd. 'The movements of the army as we 
hear it is all I can find to write about these days. Some 
Americans from the copper mines, and lately from 
Chihuahua, bring the news today, that we have been 
so long wishing to hear—viz: where Gen. Wool is 
passing his time—he has joined Gen. Taylor, and to- 
gether they have with 24,000 men marched on from 
Montere [Monterey] to San Luis Potosi, there to 
meet Gen. Santa Anna, and I suppose to determine 
by one great battle the fate of the traders here, as well 
as many other things resting the Republic. Our pre- 
sumption is, if the American arms are successful, the 
war is at an end, without farther say, if not the whole 
Republic will be so elated and so confident of their 
superior valour, they will be unwilling to close it till 
they have been entirely beaten by the still increasing 
fource of the American Army, as Congress has or- 
dered out 60, 000 in case the present army is unable to 
end the War. 

Wednesday 23d. Today brings it that the troops 

Lid 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL FORCES 


have passed through el janad [ El Jornado—the day’s 
journey |], and are encamped just on the other side; 
they have sent back in haste for the artilery which is 
some half way on their way from Santa Fé, preparing 
for an engagement,—they talk of building a Fort 
there; and also of passing the winter instead of going 
on to Chihuahua. 

Tuesday 29th, This is truly exciting times! I doubt 
if my honoured Grandmother ever saw or heard of 
more to excite, in the War she was in [ War of 1812], 
than I have here. The Indians are all around us; com- 
ing into the soldiers’ camp and driving off their stock, 
and killing the men in attendance on them. 

The enemy are advancing on us as we hear today 
and have even had a battle with our troops only about 
eighty miles from us. Lieut. Lee” from the army 
passed us post-haste this morning, for the artillery, 
as they must have it before el Passo can be taken... . . 
He says the battle was fought on Christmas-day ’twas 
not a severe one, only lasting about 20 or 30 minutes, 
and is calculated to inspire our troops with more con- 
fidence than we had expected. Just as they had gotten 
into camp & staked out their horses, not expecting 
the enemy to be any ways near, for scouts had been out 
in all directions, a dust was seen rising and in a few 
moments a fource of some five or seven hundred 
dragoons, and nearly as many volunteers and pressed 
soldiers stood before them. Of course all was in con- 
fusion; order was soon restored though, and as will 
long be remembered of him, Col. Donaphan’s first 

> This was Lieutenant James Lea of Doniphan’s Regiment. 
He served as assistant quartermaster and commissary officer. 


180 


1846] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


order in battle to his men was “prepare to squat,” 
rather a ludicrous command—but a wise one as the 
sequel will show, as they squated the enemy fired, and 
of course all the bullets passed over their heads, killing 
none and wounding only five and they not seriously. 
It was now our turn for a round—the first that, per- 
haps, every one in our little army of six or seven hun- 
dred ever fired. Thirty of the Mexicans were shot 
dead, five were taken prisoners of war, the wounded 
we have not heard of and the remaining portion fled, 
leaving one field piece. I believe the only one they had, 
a good deal of ammunition, and some muskets, which 
of course our Col. has taken as trophies of victory,— 
on the whole ’twas quite a nice little skirmish.” 


“6 The Battle of Brazito (Little Arm) was named after a bend 
in the river near the site of the conflict. This was the first battle 
of the army of the west, the Mexicans moving upon Doniphan 
while his men were engaged in pitching camp. He himself was 
playing cards with his staff to determine which one of the mem- 
bers of the advance guard should have a fine horse, which had 
just been captured. The horse had been abandoned in flight by 
some one of a party of Mexican scouts which had been surprised. 
Doniphan and the members of his staff were each playing for an 
individual in the guard. Suddenly a forked cloud of dust arose in 
the distance, arousing suspicion, and Doniphan ordered his men 
to form in line on foot. A large battle line of the enemy soon came 
into view, about one-half mile away. Presently a single horseman, 
an officer bearing a black flag with skull and crossbones on it, 
approached. He was met by the interpreter, Caldwell, to whom 
he expressed the desire of his commander for an interview with 
the American commander. Caldwell told him they could meet 
halfway between the lines. The man demanded that Doniphan 
come into the Mexican camp, which was refused. The Mexican 
then remarked that they would come and get him, and pointed to 


181 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL Ty ANUAEE, 


Wednesday 30th. The express mi alma sent to bring 
news from the Pass has returned today at 3 o’clock 
P. M. having been absent a little more than two weeks. 
The intelligence is altogether in our favour. Col. D. 
entered and took el Passo on the 28th, the Mexican — 
army having evacuated it the day previous. A com- 
pany, of three hundred men, has been sent in pursuit 
of them for the purpose of taking their canon, five or 
six pieces. Although the number of our troops is not 
one-third of the enemy ’tis believed they will succeed 
in their undertaking. Elated with their late success, 
they will manifest greater courage still, whereas the 
other party are flying, and discouraged, and are ex- 
pecting to be cut to pieces if overtaken. We learn that 
their number lost on the 25th was thirty-eight instead 
of 30. 

Enero [| January | de 1847. 


Thursday 14th. Is it possible that two whole weeks 
enstranged us, my Journal? What have I been about 
that I have neglected you so long. Well I hope I have 


his black flag which portrayed their motto: “No quarter asked or 
given.” Caldwell said: “Come on! they are ready for you.” 

The battle soon began, with the American footmen kneeling 
and firing alternately, number two firing only when number one 
stopped to reload. Only seven Americans were wounded, none 
mortally. The Mexicans were routed and lost sixty-three killed, 
one hundred seventy-two wounded, including their commander, 
Captain Ponce de Leon, and three hundred missing. 

After the battle Doniphan and his staff went back to the card 
game, but after they found out which member of the guard was 
to have the horse, they also discovered that during the battle the 
horse had been allowed to escape. (M. B. Edwards, “Journal of 
an Expedition to New Mexico,” p. 132, MS.) 


182 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


not been so badly occupied that I am ashamed to ren- 
der an account of myself. The sick have called my 
time. 

William has never recovered yet, and how he lingers 
along, with very little pain too, only weakness, with 
very excitable pulse, and no appetite. For three or 
four days mi alma was confined to his bed, with severe 
head-ache, cold, and irritation of the bladder. This was 
about the first of this month. Next, I had an ugly 
cold myself which required two or three nights’ sweat- 
ing, and onion poltice before I found relief. For sev- 
eral days past poor little Francisco has been very ill 
with flux, and I don’t know but that it may kill him 
yet, though I hope and trust that the medicines given 
him may be blest to his recovery. I shall endeavour to 
do my duty, as the only benefactors of the orphan, 
leaving all things in the hands of the Great Giver of 
all things, knowing that he will never neglect. . 
People have been sending in every day for “remedias,” 
both in the village and from a distance; sickness is 
great in the country now, and mz alma has his name up 
among the people of the Rio Bajo as a skillful medico, 
some of the medicines he has administered to the suf- 
fering having been of material service. One Snr. 
Pino™ sent some few days since, a horse for him to go 


*T Don Manuel Pino belonged to one of the most influential 
families in New Mexico. When the news reached Santa Fé of the 
invasion of New Mexico by the American Army, the Pino 
brothers, Manuel and Nicolas, immediately responded to the call 
issued by Governor Armijo for volunteers, with all the means at 
their disposal. They at once began raising companies and pro- 
curing arms and ammunition. They were with General Armijo 


183 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL RN 


some twenty miles to see his wife, sick of a fever; as 
this was impossible tho’ he gave the servant some 
medicines for her, and today Snr. Pino, himself, has 
come down to return his grateful thanks for the good 
it has done, and, as no charges are made, he presented 
some fresh meat pork and carnaro [carnero—mut- 
ton]. It shows a feeling of pure gratitude which I 
constantly see manifested among these people for 
any little kindness done them. . . . Yesterday Lieut. 
Lee who went up for the artillery, arrived; he went 
back as far as Santa Fé, and there found Col. Price 
engaged in quelling a revolution that would have been, 
some of the unruly Mexicans having endeavoured 
to make a breakout, the heads who were put in prison 
are Archulette,” one [Tomas] Ortis, Salasar,” the 
great enemy to the Texan prisoners, that were. 


at Apache Pass, and protested against the abandonment of the 
Mexican position at that place. When Santa Fé was taken by 
Kearny the Pinos refused to take the oath of allegiance. Nicolas 
Pino was implicated in the Mexican conspiracy to drive out the 
American officials from New Mexico, and was arrested by Gen- 
eral Price on December 21, 1846. After the failure of the con- 
spiracy at Santa Fé, neither Manuel nor his brother Nicolas Pino 
took any part in the later revolutionary movements, Don Nicolas 
Pino having taken the oath of allegiance to the United States 
upon his release from prison in Santa Fé. These brothers were 
ever after very loyal citizens of the United States. 

78 Diego Archuleta was of higher quality than most of the 
Mexican officials of his time. His father, Jean Andres Archuleta, 
was a wealthy resident of Rio Arriba, in which county of New 
Mexico Diego was born, at Plaza Alcalde, on March 27, 1814. 
The son received part of his education in the public school, and 
also studied under Father Antonio José Martinez. Later, while 
still a boy, he went to Durango, where he studied eight years in 


184 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


The artillery will be on in a few days and immedi- 
ately on its arrival at el Passo, we are told that Col. 
D will leave for Chihuahua, anxious I suppose to reap 


preparation for the priesthood. After receiving several minor 
orders he changed his mind about this vocation, and in 1840 
returned to his native county. 

Not long after the return of Archuleta to New Mexico, he was 
appointed captain of militia by the Mexican Government, and 
as such took part in the capture of the Texans involved in the 
ill-fated Texas-Santa Fé Expedition. This distinction was fol- 
lowed by many others, including a deputyship in the Mexican 
Congress for two years from 1843. The Golden Cross of Honor 
was conferred upon him in recognition of distinguished service 
as an officer in the Mexican Army. At the time of the American 
advance on New Mexico he was colonel, lieutenant governor, and 
second in command of the army. 

Diego Archuleta has been described by historians as an in- 
tense patriot, and he was the leader of a large contingent. What- 
ever caused him to fall victim to the influence of James Magoffin 
is dificult to say with any degree of positiveness. Certainly 
Magoffin understood his man. Armijo had fled and his troops 
disbanded, at least twenty-four hours before General Kearny 
reached Apache Pass. Threats of assassination were being made 
against Armijo by officers under Archuleta, and the latter cer- 
tainly was determined to use his following for defense of the pass. 
He was given the impression, which generally prevailed, that 
General Kearny would leave the western part of the territory 
untouched, and Magoffin recommended to him that he seize that 
portion of the country for himself. He was perhaps tempted to 
make the best of a bad situation, and thought he was trading a 
temporary victory for a permanent establishment in the western 
part of New Mexico. 

He agreed not to fight and lived up to his agreement. Magoffin, 
however, was unable to prove his own sincerity. General Kearny, 
much to Magoflin’s surprise, had orders from Washington to take 
possession of the whole country and move on to California. 


185 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL ANUARY 


if possible the glory of taking it himself before Gen. 
Wool’s arrival. I shall be glad when we can start 
again, though the chances with our sick family, are 
rather against us for the present. 


Archuleta naturally felt that he had been cheated and after two 
unsuccessful revolts organized by him, he fled the country. In 
one of these revolts Governor Charles Bent of New Mexico was 
cruelly killed. 

Archuleta was afterwards invited to return, and did so. He 
took the oath of allegiance to the United States and filled a num- 
ber of offices in and about Santa Fé. These included Indian agent 
in 1857, brigadier-general, 1861, and member of the general 
assembly of New Mexico for a period of fourteen years. 

In 1841 Archuleta was married to Jesusita Trujillo, there 
being seven children by this union. He died of heart trouble at 
Santa Fé, March 21, 1884, while a member of the legislative 
assembly. (Twitchell, Military Occupation of New Mexico, p. 
238.) 

7° Salazar is treated by Davis, in his El Gringo, as follows: 
“Toward the close of the month I chanced to meet in Santa Fé 
the notorious Captain Salazar, the same who figures in not a 
very enviable position in Kendall’s ‘Santa Fé Expedition.’ He is 
the man who had charge of the Texan prisoners while marching 
through New Mexico, and treated them with such a savage 
cruelty, cutting off their ears, and inflicting other unheard-of 
barbarities upon them. He is a dark and swarthy-looking individ- 
ual, and by no means prepossessing in his appearance. Upon 
this occasion he had come in to see the governor, in order to claim 
damages for his son, who had been killed by the Indians a few 
days before, out upon the Plains, while hunting buffalo. He laid 
a valuation of five thousand dollars upon his life, because, he said, 
it had cost a good deal of money to rear and educate him, and 
he now wished the United States to pay for his loss. But, as the 
Indian Intercourse Act does not recognize such claims, the 
governor declined either to make him any remuneration, or refer 
his demand to the government.” 


186 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


Friday 15th. A gentleman from the Pass, Mr. 
Cauldwell,” has passed us today with the intelligence 
that Gen. Wool is still on his rout to C.[hihuahua ] in- 
stead of having joined Gen. Taylor as we heard. The 
news is pretty strait, having come through an inter- 
cepted letter from the Gov. of Chifhuahua] (Trius) * 
himself to one of the officers that evacuated the Pass 


8° Thomas Caldwell acted as interpreter for Doniphan’s com- 
mand. He exhibited great coolness and daring during the battle 
of Brazito, and several times rode close to the enemy’s line, in 
order to hear the orders that were there given. He remained with 
Colonel Doniphan until January, 1847, when he felt himself 
aggrieved, left the army and returned to Missouri. He reached 
St. Louis the following April. 

81 Don Angel ‘Trias, governor of Chihuahua and brigadier- 
general commanding the Chihuahua volunteers. He owned a 
large estate in and around the village of Encinillas. “He was for 
years governor of the State of Chihuahua, a gentleman of large 
wealth and fine accomplishments. After receiving his education 
he went to Europe, where he spent eight years traveling in various 
parts, although he remained most of the time in England and 
France. He was well versed in several of the European languages, 
and spoke English with great correctness. With large estates, a 
cultivated mind, and elegant manners, General Trias naturally 
exercised a great influence in the State. His estate at the time of 
the invasion of the Americans contained many thousand head of 
cattle, which he gave to his government for the support of the 
army, and for which he has never made a claim. The sacrifices 
he made for his country greatly impoverished him. There is no 
doubt that General Trias detested the Americans as a people; 
yet American gentlemen and officers who stopped at Chihuahua 
were always treated by him with great politeness and attention. 
He was ardently devoted to Santa Anna and was considered to 
be the head of the war party in his State.” (Bartlett, Personal 
Narrative of Explorations and Incidents, vol. 2, p. 426.) 


187 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL LANUARY 


on Col. Doniphan’s arrival. He writes that “Gen. 
Wool has taken Paris [Parras] (S. E. from C.[hi- 
huahua]|) and is on his march with 2500 men to the 
North.”” Whether for Chihuahua or Durango, we 
know not, but ’tis more than probable ’tis the former 
place, as his first orders were to go there. If so, by 
this time he must be near the end of his march, and 
Chi.[huahua] they say is not in the best situation to 
defend herself having been unable to get assistance 
from below. We must hear something decisive soon! 
Friday 22nd. Well at last Maj. Clark of the artil- 
lery has arrived! How long we have been expecting 
him; he brings a good excuse though for his delay. 
The outbreak at Santa Fé, or rather San Miguel and 
Taos the other side of it has been of more importance 
than we have ever heard—the conspiracy was headed 
by one Thos. Ortis who was to be made their Goy- 
ernor, and one Archulette, Lieut. Govnr. At San 
Miguel they even beat their drums to arms. The night 
of the 19th of December was set as the executing of 
their designs, but from some sign of discovery they 
deferred it till the 25th, at which time Col. Price re- 
ceived positive information of their designs, and or- 
dered Maj. Clark out with his artillery to stop the 
disturbances. Several were apprehended, and tried. 
They acknowledged their intentions were to rush onto 
Santa Fé seize and either shoot or hang on the Ameri- 
can flag-staff immediately the Gov. Bent, Col. Price 
and Maj. Clark three principals. They were then to 
appoint this Ortis Gov. take possession of the Fort 
and there to establish themselves, dealing out their 
laws till a larger fource could come up from the Pass, 
188 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


when they were to give all the Americans their choice 
to leave the country immediately or they would meet 
with no mercy. The Gov. has discharged some, others 
are in confinement, while the two heads Ortis and 
Archulette have escaped. Maj. C. says they are on 
the search though, and if they are taken will be made 
a sample of by being put to death.— Quite a bold step 
this has been, and but for the fortunate disclosure of 
it we might have been killed before this.” 


82 The insurgents were: Tomas Ortiz, who had been chief 
alcalde of Santa Fé, Juan Felipe Ortiz, the vicario, Diego Archu- 
leta, Domingo C. de Baca, Miguel E. Pino, Nicolas Pino, Manuel 
Chaves, Santiago Armijo, Agustin Duran, Pablo Dominguez, 
José Maria Sanchez, Antonio Marie Trujillo, Santiago Martinez, 
Pascual Martinez, Vincente Martinez, Antonio Ortiz, Facundo 
Pino, Rey. Antonio José Martinez, and Fr. Leyva. These men 
considered themselves to be patriots, and unwilling to see their 
country lost without a single effective blow. Not one of them had 
favored the abandonment of Apache Pass by Armijo, and all 
were related either by blood or marriage. The plan as formed by 
these men was that on the appointed day those engaged in the 
conspiracy in Santa Fé were to gather in the parochial church 
and remain concealed. Meanwhile friends from the surrounding 
country, under the lead of Archuleta, were to be brought into the 
city and distributed in various houses where they would be un- 
observed. At midnight the church bell was to sound and then the 
men within the church were to come forth and all were to rendez- 
vous immediately in the plaza, seize the cannon there, and aim 
them so as to command the leading points, while detachments 
under special orders were to attack the palace and the quarters 
of General Price, and make them prisoners. The people through- 
out the whole north had been secretly notified and were only 
awaiting news of the rising at Santa Fé in order to join in the 
revolt and make it a success. (Twitchell, Leading Facts of New 
Mexican History, vol. 2, p. 282.) 


189 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL JANUARY 


Thursday 28th. Eight miles below Bosquito [ Bos- 
quecito ]. Again on the road, and with what foreboad- 
ings. For three days I have been trying to find time to 
write but failed. Detr. Richardson™ of the army ar- 
rived in haste at our house in Bosquecito, with his 
wagon of medicines and an escort of five men beside 
his waggoner. He brought news that started us from 
the village in haste or as soon as we could be ready, 
which took us till Wednesday noon. 

The news is that the Taos people have risen, and 
murdered every American citizen in Taos including 
the Gov.” (then on a visit there). That all the troops 


88 Robert F. Richardson, born in Tennessee. He was appointed 
surgeon of Major Meriwether Lewis Clark’s Battalion of Mis- 
souri Volunteers, July 7, 1846, and was honorably discharged 
June 30, 1847. 

84 Charles Bent was appointed governor of New Mexico on 
September 22, 1846, by General Kearny. The latter having visited 
some of the Pueblo Indians and assured himself that the country 
was tranquil, appointed the governor and a full set of territorial 
officials, and marched off to California. He had hardly gone, how- 
ever, when evidences of a growing revolt by the Mexicans and 
part of the Pueblo Indian population began to appear. On De- 
cember 17, following, Governor Bent arrested seven of the con- 
spirators, and the military and civil officers were sent in pursuit 
of two of the prime movers in the rebellion. During the state of 
unrest caused by these conspiracies, of which Diego Archuleta 
was the prime mover, Governor Bent happened to be visiting his 
family at San Fernando de Taos. Very early in the morning, on 
January 19, 1847, a mob of drunken Indians went into the town 
and demanded the release of two Pueblo Indians held in prison 
for stealing. Sheriff Stephen L. Lee refused their demands and 
they murdered him, as well as the prefect of the town, a Mexican 
named Vigil, the latter having infuriated them by calling them 


190 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


from Albaquerque (the regulars) have been ordered 
to Santa Fe leaving this portion of the territory at the 
mercy of the mob. It is a perfect revolution there; 


all thieves. They chopped his body up into small bits. A number 
of Mexicans then joined the mob and it proceeded to the house 
occupied by the governor. Warned of their approach by the 
noise, Governor Bent quickly dressed and armed himself. 

It soon became evident to the governor that resistance would 
be futile. Instead he attempted to reason with them, recalling 
the many kindnesses he had done for them during his twenty 
years’ residence among them. But they were beyond all reason, 
and only replied with wild angry yells and attacks upon the 
house. They climbed upon the roof and dug a hole in it, while 
the governor’s wife and children plead with him to use his pistols 
in defense of his life. This he refused to do, as he believed such 
action would only-make the mob determined to kill all the occu- 
pants of the house, as well as himself. These were his three chil- 
dren, his wife and her sister, Mrs. Kit Carson, Mrs. Tom Boggs, 
and a Mexican woman servant. 

In the meantime neighbors, a French Canadian and his Mexi- 
can wife, were aiding the women in the besieged dwelling to cut 
a hole through the adobe wall. This completed, the women and 
children escaped into the adjoining house, but Governor Bent 
held back, and was unwilling to follow. He finally yielded, but 
not before being wounded, and thereafter was fired on through 
the window of a room to which he had retreated. Taking paper 
from his pocket and attempting to write, his strength failed him. 
He was only able to speak a last word to his weeping wife and 
children, and fell dead from the bullet of a Pueblo. Thus the 
first American governor of New Mexico died a martyr. The 
Indians broke into the house, shot him with their arrows and his 
own pistols, took his scalp, stretched it on a board with brass- 
headed tacks, and paraded with it all over the town. 

Charles Bent was born at Charleston, Virginia, November 11, 
1799, the son of Silas and Martha (Kerr) Bent. With his brother, 
William, and Ceran St. Vrain, he engaged in the fur trade; later 


191 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL [JANUARY 


they are mounting the cannon on the fort—the citizens 
have all deserted the place, and Col. Price is in readi- 
ness to subdue the rebels, and has perhaps before this 
time will have done some fighting. 

The Dectr. was prevailed upon by mi alma to attach 
himself to our party for strength’s sake, they are seven 
and add much to us while we protect them too, and 
this is absolutely necessary now. We left in much haste 
they are rising between us and Santa Fé now under 
one of the Armijos [Santiago Armijo], and in truth 
we are flying before them.—My knowledge of these 
people has been extended very much in one day. There 
are among them some of the greatest villains, smooth- 
faced assassins in the world and some good people too. 
But yesterday morning while we were packing our 
trunks and some bales of goods, my suspicions were 
highly roused though perhaps unjustly; a good many 
men came in, some to buy goods, others merely to talk 
and as I suspected to see some thing of our strength, 
for without doubt ’tis the intention of nearly every one 
of them to murder without distinction every American 
in the country if the least thing should turn in their 
favour, for which reason we are going on now to over- 
take the troops below us, as ’tis a time when wisdom 
his brothers, George and Robert, were taken into the firm. Charles 
was very popular with the traders and trappers of the upper 
Arkansas, but he seemed to prefer the trade about Santa Fé. He 
took up that branch of it, and went into New Mexico in 1829, 
settling in the valley of the Taos. There he married Marie Ignacia 
Jaramillo, who belonged to one of the leading families of New 
Mexico. Her younger sister, Josefa, became the wife of Kit 


Carson. (Grinnell, Bent’s Old Fort and Its Builders, Kansas 
Historical Collections, vol. 15, pp. 78-81.) 


192 





1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


says “keep with the fource.” I often observed these 
men yesterday whispering slighly about the room, and 
especially when mi alma went out of the room, always 
peeping out after him to see if he was near or far off, 
on which occasions they talked more and faster than 
if he was only about the door. Everything was said in 
whisper and of course I could hear nothing, but 
whether right or wrong my suspicion made it of a very 
dark nature. One of them is a brother to a chief leader 
in the disturbances above—Pino, is his name, and a 
man that, from his looks and whole demeanor I should 
say would not hesitate to do a “deed in the dark”! An 
other one made me suspicion him from his flattering 
talk of the Americans and abuse of his own people; the 
same was sly enough in gathering up some goods he 
had bought, to slip in a whole piece of calico more than 
belonged to him but did not succeed in carrying it off 
for being discovered and the piece recovered. 

The whole company of us were on the look out— 
mi alma was often on the house top; William, the 
Detr. and his seven men quietly skouted the town, and 
I kept watch within door. We remained at this camp 
all this day, making preparations for a constant travel 
from tomorrow, in the mean time all fire arms are be- 
ing examined, shot off and reloaded to be all in readi- 
ness for an attack. And we are well prepared for it; 
all the wagoners are well armed, William and the 
Detr’s company, and within our little tent we have 
twelve sure rounds, a double-barreled shot gun, a pair 
of holster and one pair of belt pistols, with one of 
Colts six barreled revolvers—a formidable core for 
only two people to muster. I hope and pray none of 

193 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL eee 


them may have to be used, though we have good 
ground to expect an attack either from these, or a 
party of Indians reported to be below us a little—and 
to paint the scene as frightful as possible—we might 
have both to attack us. 

Friday 29th, Camp No. 2. Well our travel today of 
some seven or eight miles has been safe though over 
very heavy roads along the river. 

How exceedingly cold it is; water froze to the thick- 
ness of an inch and a half in a cup on our table last 
night, and the inmates of the bed suffered though 
under a buffalo robe, a counterpain and three pairs of 
Mackenaw blankets. 


February 1847. 


Monday ist. By the goodness of God we have come 
this far in safety. We are almost at the mouth of the 
Jornada (the long journey without water) have been 
traveling slowly the roads being exceedingly heavy, 
with two or three severe hills; one we passed this morn- 
ing, about a half mile in length, and the sand so heavy 
all the teams doubled and were then just able to get 
over with resting half a dozen times. ’Tis an ugly 
road very, but they say *twill be better after this; I 
hope so indeed, for the poor animals work so hard. One 
month of this year is gone and eight months since we 
started on this long journey. I wonder if I shall ever 
get home again? But ’tis all the same if I do or do not, 
I must learn to look farther ahead than to earthly 
things. Now that a conviction has been awakened 
within my dark and sinful soul, how greater is my sin 
if I suffer it to die away without seeking my Savior’s 

194 


yess. we 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


pardon for multiplied transgressions against his in- 
finite goodness and forbearance. I am sinful my flesh 
is prone to do evil, and if I remain in this state what 
says the Apostle is my doom—“Indignation, wrath, 
tribulation and anguish upon every soul of man that 
doeth evil. But glory, honour and peace to every man 
that worketh good.” The two great rewards are laid 
before me, with the command to choose the “evil or 
the good.” What must I do? I am conscious of my 
great polution, my unworthyness of God’s mercies 
and shall I stop at this? No, there is certain ruin if I 
do. If pardon is offered the penitent, “I will arise and 
go unto my Father and say unto Him Father I have 
sinned against Heaven and in thy sight and am not 
worthy to be called thy child, make me as one of thy 
hired servants.” 

Tuesday 2nd. Fray Cristobal. Well we have arrived 
at the last point on the River before taking the Jor- 
naday. F’ray Cristoval is a celebrated place, not from 
the beauty or number of its houses, but from its being 
a regular camping-ground never passed without the 
traveler stops a day or two or at the least the half of 
a day to rest his animals for the Jornada. One would 
think that as long as they have been passing towns all 
down the River, that this must be one too, or at least 
a settlement; but no, there is not even the dusky walls 
of an adobe house to cheer its lonely solitude. Like 
Valverde it is only a regular camping place with a 
name. At present I can say nothing of its beauties— 
the bleak hill sides look lovely enough and feel cold 
enough. In the summer season though I suspect it is 
quite attractive; the River bottom is then green; the 

195 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL [FEBRUARY 


cottonwoods are leaved; the stream, though at all 
times dark and ugly, is more brisk and lively in its 
flow and these now unattractive sand-hills serve as a 
variation in the scene; with all I guess it is not so 
disagreeable. 

Three men from EK] Passo, passed us today; the 
news they bring is little and of little importance. Noth- 
ing has been heard of Gen. Wool, they are preparing 
at Chihuahua to recetve Col. Donavan [Doniphan], 
who will march to accept of their kindness, immedi- 
ately on the arrival of the artillery at Kl Passo today 
or tomorrow. 

Wednesday 3rd. Three miles from Fray Cristoval 
tonight, ready to take the jornada®” tomorrow eve- 
ning. No one has passed us today, at one time this 
P. M. though we thought to have had some news; soon 
after we started from F’. C. we observed a wagon far 
off to our right, standing near a little woods, and sev- 
eral oxen feeding a short distance from it. Mi alma 
and Gabriel immediately started off, but soon re- 
turned reporting the wagon as empty and the animals 
(which we take by the way) as broken down. They 
gave out I suppose and their owner was obliged to 
leave his wagon for the want of a team to pull it. 

Three of the Dctr’s men have gone on tonight as 


85 Jornada del muerto (the day’s journey of the dead man) 
was along a detour of the highway for a distance of about eighty 
miles, made necessary by the obstruction of a mountain at the 
river’s edge. In dry seasons there was no water supply along 
this journey, and a Mexican who tried to make it in a day, with- 
out supplies, perished on the road. Hence the name. It was a 
dangerous pass and cost the lives of many travelers. | 


196 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


express to give Col. D.[oniphan] intelligence of the 
insurrection above. It is a dangerous journey for only 
three men to undertake, but I hope and pray they 
may be protected safely thro’ it. 

Friday 5th. A la leguna del muerto.® 2 O’k last 
evening we started into the jornada, traveled till 5 o’k 
and stoped two hours to rest the animals and get a 
little supper. The wind blew high all the evening and 
the dust considerable. A short time after we stoped 
or when the fire was made the scene reminded me of 
one described by Mr. Gregg, in his Prairie scenes 
the grass caught fire near to our baggage wagon and 
but for the great activity of the servants and wagoners 
all of whom collected around, we should have been 
now with out the wagon or any thing in it and perhaps 
worse off than that, the consequent explosion of two 
powder keggss in it might have caused [cost | the life of 
some of us. They beat it out with blankets, sticks, 
wagon-whips & in short every thing within their reach, 
half-dozen of the men pushed the wagon off as fast as 
the fire advanced towards them, till ’twas entirely ex- 
tinguished. It is singular how rapidly it will spread 
in the dry grass—before the alarm could be given 
yesterday it spread several yards. 

About 7 o’clock we again resumed our travel for the 


86 Taguna del Muerto, or Dead Man’s Lake. Depended upon 
to water thirsty animals. In dry seasons it was a mere depression 
in the plains, and to get water the drivers would have to go five 
or six miles into a narrow gorge to Ojo del Muerto (Dead Man’s 
Spring). Here many of them were killed by Apache Indians, who 
frequented the neighborhood. (Gregg, Commerce of the Prairies, 
1844 ed., vol. 2, p. 73.) 


197 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL EBRUMRY 


night. The ox teams in front, myself and train next, 
while the mules brought up the rear. La luna made 
her appearance about 10—and afforded us a beautiful 
light to travel by; the road is hard and level and we 
made fine progress, arriving at this place about 25 
miles by 2 o’k this morning—and here I am now to 
describe this place—“The dead man’s lake,” “Laguna 
del muerto” is some six ms. from where we are camped 
on the road. Travellers generally stop here and send 


off their animals to water at this spring quite a long 


distance too, but tis quite necessary as we shall not find 
water again till we strike the River forty miles ahead. 
The exact circumstances of the derivation of the name 
of “laguna del muerto” I do not recollect, but tis from 
a traveller once in attempting to find a road to the 
south more practicable than the River course, started 
through here alone, and was after found dead at the 
spring. How the appearance of the country is imme- 
diately about there I know not, but to judge from the 
appearances here the regular camping ground, I 
should fully say the name it bears is not too solitary for 
it. The country is quite level immediately around us, 
with dark hills in the distance. The grass is short and 
dry, the soil sandy, the little Prairie dogs have spread 
their habitation far and wide around and the whole 
puts on a gloomy aspect. 

Monday 8th. Neither yesterday or the day before 
have I written. Friday night we travelled all night by 
a fine moon, till daylight, when we stoped and took a 
rest of a few hours. During the night we met a com- 
pany of new Mexicans returning from the Pass, and 

198 


1847) DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


with them an American gentleman named White” for 
whom mi alma wrote for him to come up to take some 
charge of his business as he is in want of such an one as 
he is—a persevering, hard working and confidential 
man—and mi alma has now sent him back to buy corn 
and to “look out” to hear all the sly news, to endeavour 
to procure if possible some protection from Col. Dona- 
phan, as we do not like the idea of being left entirely 
behind & alone too—I am not an advocate though for 
night travelling when I have to be shut up in the car- 
riage in a road I know nothing of, and the driver nod- 
ding all the time, and letting the reins drop from his 
hands to the entire will of the mules. I was kept in a 
fever the whole night, though every one complained 
bitterly of cold. Saturday morning early we were off 


87 James White was a merchant of Independence and Santa 
Fé. In October, 1849, while traveling with his wife and young 
daughter to Santa Fé, along with the caravan of another trader 
(F. X. Aubrey), they were attacked by Apache Indians. At the 
time they were at a place supposed to be past the danger from 
Indian attack, and were driving some distance in advance of the 
caravan, accompanied by only eight men. The men were all 
killed by the Indians, and the woman and child taken captive. 
The murder was discovered and reported by an American mer- 
chant named Spencer, and Major Grier, with Kit Carson and 
Joachim Leroux as guides, was detailed for their rescue. The 
guides found the Indians, but in spite of Carson’s advice Major 
Grier stopped for a parley with them, thinking it a sure way to 
rescue the captives. The momentary delay gave the Indians a 
chance to escape. Mrs. White ran toward her rescuers, but was 
mortally wounded by the Indians, and the child was never found. 
Although the War Department furnished Isaac Dunn, Mrs. 
White’s brother, an escort to search for the child, he failed to 
~ find her. 


199 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL FHBRUARY 


again, travelled till 3 o’clock P. M. when we again 
stoped to rest our fatigued animals; the grass is fine, 
and though they are doing with out water and pulling 
long and hard they are not suffering in this point— 
the grama-grass is what they are fond of from its 
being very sweet and slightly green near the roots, 
it grows in bunches all over the Mountains, has a 
jointed stem with curling blades & growing out from 
each joint. It grows to the height of two feet, though 
in general not more than six or eight inches. At all 
seasons the taller portion has a white and harvest-lke 
appearance, large fields of it are like hay. Saturday 
evening we again started and travelled till 12, when 
we reached the River, camped on a high bluff about 
two miles from the water, and sent the stock down 
to it. All day Sunday we remained at this place to re- 
cruit a little, and sent Mr. White on ahead to purchase 
corn at Don Ana or Don Llana | Dofia Ana]. Not- 
withstanding the many reports of Indians stealing 
animals and murdering people about here, I have been 
_bold enough to climb up and down these beautiful and 
rugged cliffs both yesterday and today, but I shall 
be more careful hereafter, as it is really dangerous. 
We are in the heart of the Apache range and mi alma 
thinks I am wrong to go two hundred yards from the 
camp, we are now putting our little house mui cirquta 
de los carros [within the corral of wagons |. 
Wednesday 10th. Don Llana [Dofia Ana]. Last 
evening we arrived here after a long day’s travel— 
Nooned in on the River about four miles back, and 
came up this P. M. to the only settlement between 
the jornada and El Passo, owing to the destructive 
200 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


disposition of the Apaches, a few nights since they 
came into this town and drove off twenty yoke of 
oxen belonging to government. For the protection 
of the inhabitants against them for the future, Col. 
Donaphan has left them a canon, and by the way we 
came near getting ourselves into a fine scrape last 
night by the wild impudence of some of the wag- 
goners. They went into the village, “got on a spree” 
and ran off with the canon, brought it to the camp 
and persisted in taking it as being unfit for Meaicans. 
As “twas done without provocation, and with seeming 
hostile intentions, the Alcalde told us this morning, 
that if mz alma had not then sent him an apology then 
—by Gabriel that the men were drunk and he would 
have it returned in the morning, he intended raising 
a fource, and immediately sending an express off to 
the governor in the Pass informing him of the hostile 
move made against him, and this morning the old 
- gentleman is in a gib of trouble, for the men on finding 
they were not allowed to retain their trophy, spiked 
the touch-hole so that it will not fire, and if the Indians 
were to come they would be without protection. Mz 
alma could only apologize, take the Alcalde’s part, by 
agreeing with him that an express must be sent to the 
governor in el Passo, and at the same time has set 
down in his own private book the names of the two 
gentleman who committed the depredations. 
Camp 10 miles from Don Llana [Dofia Ana]. Mr. 
White came up with us this evening; has been 
twenty miles below El Passo to see Col. Donaphan. 
The troops have all left the pass—and Col. D. has 
taken with him five or six of the most influential citi- 
201 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL FEBRUARY 


zens as hostages for the good behavior of those re- 
maining, to ourselves and all the traders, it is quite a 
propper step. Many of mz alma’s friends in the Pass 
send him word to come on without fear, that they have 
always been friendly to him and still are, their houses 
are open to receive us when we arrive. On the whole 
we could look for nothing better. | 

Friday 12th. We have come over some dark looking 
ground today. This morning the whole road lay 
through musquite thickets, which made me rather care- . 
ful in walking out. The Indian is a wily man, and one 
cannot be too precausious when in his territory. Yes- 
terday we passed over the spot where a few years since 
a party of the Apaches attacked Gen. Armijo as he 
returned from the Pass with a party of troops, and 
killed some fourteen of his men, the graves of whom, 
marked by a rude cross, are now seen, he himself re- 
ceived a wound in his leg, from which he will always be 
lame. This morning we passed the spot were they at- 
tacked brother James’ little party of a dozen men, 
this summer, and [de]spoiled them of all their goods. 
And today we nooned it at Brasito, the battle-field 
long to be remembered by Col. Donaphan and his little 
band of seven hundred volunteers. I rode over the 
battle ground, (a perfect plain) and brought off as 
trophies two cartridges one Mexican the other Amer. 

This P. M. we were overtaken by an express mail 
from Col. Price at Santa Fé to Col. Doniphan, and 
with orders for the Pass only, as he has left there, and 
there is no one to receive it in that place. Detr. Rich- 
ardson, now with us, as concerned with the army has 
taken charge of it to send it on tomorrow; he opened it 

202 


z 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


tonight, and we have all the news contained in the 
newspapers up to the 27th Nov. from the U. S. and 
to the 4th do. from Taylor’s army, then just leaving 
Monterey for San Louis Potosi, via, Satilla [Saltillo] 
and ‘Tampico. Gen. Wool with part of his army is 
to join him, while the other part is sent on to Chi- 
huahua. I hope and trust they may go and moreover 
be successful with Col. Doniphan, otherwise we can 
have no hope of safety farther. The friends of those 
prisoners taken from the Pass can of course have no 
very friendly feeling towards us, and if they once get 
the advantage of us what must the consequences be? 
I heartily wish we were back at Santa Fé in Fort 
Marcy, and we would be soon too if our animals were 
in a condition to carry us. They bring me two letters 
from Lex.[ington, Kentucky ] in which I find news of 
the death of Aunt McDowell,” and Uncle Dick Hart; 
the marriage of several acquaintances; many wishes 
for my return, and sorrow that I ever left home at all. 
I almost wish so myself, since we have been detained 
so long, and if we get back at all I shall call it God’s 
blessing. 
Saturday 13th. Today we have come about ten 
miles. Our camp is not on the River, but five or six 
miles from it, in a real Indian country. The place is 
called La Laguna, simply a saltwater pond, half 
grown over with reeds; gloomy looking mountains 
rear their heads in our rear and sides; the grass has 


88 Sarah Shelby, daughter of Governor Isaac Shelby, born 
1785, married, in 1802, Dr. Ephraim McDowell, the most dis- 
tinguished surgeon of his time. She was always called by her 
family “Aunt McDowell.” 


203 


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been all camped off, and all together it is a gloomy 
place. The musquite thicket all around us, look the 
very abodes of the savage red man, and fear has at 
length determined me to remain within my quiet little 
tent in place of roaming about in search of any little 
curiosity [ might chance to find. Our stay at Bosque- 
sito during the fall months has prevented me from pre- 
serving many wild flower seeds as I intended, the birds 
and wind have well-nigh gathered all. 

Sunday 14th. Three miles we are from the crossing, 
today the country improves a little from yesterday. 
EI] Rio winds its way through the mountains, and if 
the naked cottonwood trees and willow bushes scat- 
tered along its banks, were only covered with green 
leaves I know ’twould be pretty. I am beginning to 
long for a church to attend, el camino [the road] has 
ceased to engage my attention as much as formerly 
and especially on the Sabbath, but as it is there is no 
preventative now; I came out on this travel regard- 
less of the Sabbath, not bearing in mind the Lord’s 
command “Remember the Sabbath-day to keep ~it 
holy; in it thou shalt not do any work” &c. But God 
in his infinite mercy has come near unto me, when I 
was far off, and called me when I sought not after him. 
My sins and transgressions are heavy on my head, and 
but for the great and precious promises to the sinner 
penitent, every where to be met with in the Holy scrip- 
ture, I should at once and forever despair of peace and 
pardon in this world or hereafter. There is no excuse 
for me now, for “the word is very nigh unto me, in my 
mouth, and in my heart, that I may do it.” Though I 
am. now in darkness, the Lord has said “Awake thou 

204 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


that sleepest, and arise from the dead, and Christ 
shall give thee light.” 

Monday 15th. En casa de Don Agapita [In the 
house of Don Agapita]. Leaving the wagons this 
morning we crossed the River and came into town to 
the house of mz alma’s old friend Don Agapita an old 
Gauchupine [a Mexican name for a native-born 
Spaniard |. The house is kept by the old gentleman’s 
single daughter Donia Josefita, a very interesting and 
lady-like girl of twenty two years, she is affible, per- 
fectly easy in her manners, and I think if some of the 
foreigners who have come into this country, and 
judged of the whole population from what they have 
seen—on the frontiers, would, to see her a little time, 
be entirely satisfied of his error in regard to the re- 
finement of the people, although I have not judged 
so rashly as most persons, I confess I am surprised a 
little—and Don Agapita is a man ever to be beloved, 
for his hospitable feelings extended to all classes of 
people. He has sympathy for those in distress or 
trouble and shows it by endeavouring to serve them; 
he is a man of learning, experience and good sound 
‘sense, and more than all he has a sincere heart. When 
we arrived he met us at the door with a hearty wel- 
come to his old friend and his wife (I hope though he 
will like me for myself by and by) threw open his 
house to us with a request for us to take it as our own. 
I should like to spend muncho tiempo [mucho—much 
time] with them, but tomorrow we shall remove to el 
Senor Cura’s, as we are invited and the house has 
been especially prepared for us. 

But a little in regard to the house of our host and 

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hostess and its management &c. &c. La casa is not 
very large but of ordinary size; the sala fronts the 
street, and is nearly the whole length of the house, the 
walls instead of papering are painted in flowers, vases, 
&c and at first had a very antique and singular, but 
now that a few hours’ sight have made it accustomed 
to my visage, I think it equally as pretty as our paper- 
ing. From the sala opens a door into our chamber, a 
pretty, nice little room with one window and a snug 
fire place, a bed in one corner, a lounge in an other. 
Outside in the patio are flour-pots, bird-cages, cats 
playing and pigeons eating, and such a quantity of 
the latter I have not seen for a long time. A back door 
opens into a garden, where fruit trees and grape vines 
grow in abundance, with here and there a rose bush, a 
lilly bed, or some thing of the kind; as it is winter time 
now of course there are no bright blossoms to cheer 
the scene, but the weather is so mild the trees are leavy- 
ing, and in a little time more there will be fruit. Next 
comes the table in propper routine; we take coffee 
about 71% o’clock, breakfast at 10, and dinner at 5— 
with fruit between meals. Our dishes are all Mexican, 
but good ones, some are delightful; one great impor- 
tance they are well cooked; their meats are all boiled, 
the healthiest way of preparing them, and are in most 
instances cooked with vegetables, which are onions, 
cabbage, and tomatoes; with the addition of apples 
and grapes; the courses for dinner are four, one dish 
at a time; for breakfast two, ending always with beans. 
Brandy and wine are regularly put on at each meal, 
and never go off with out being honoured with the 
salutations of all the company. 
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1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


Tuesday 16th. The more I see of this family the 
more I like them, they are so kind and attentive, so 
desirous to make us easy, so anxious for our welfare in 
the disturbances of the country. I can’t help loving 
them. The old gentleman remarked at breakfast this 
morning, that he sympathized—for the experience of 
many years has taught him that sympathy is a sooth- 
ing balm—much with me in the troubles, dangers, and 
difficulties I have been in, those I am now in, and those 
that I may be in, but with all he says I am learning a 
lesson that not one could have taught me but expe- 
rience, the ways of the world. Tis true as he says; I 
have seen and read of Ky. till I know it all by heart, 
but who could by telling me, make me sensible of 
what I have seen and felt since I left home to travel. 
His arguments are quite phylosophical, and in fine he 
is a man not met with every day in any part of the 
world. 

Wednesday 17th. En casa del Senor Cura ['The 
house of the Curate |. Agreeable to our arrangements 
we moved our boarding last evening to this the resi- 
dence of the Priest,*’ who is now a prisoner in the 


hands of Col. Doniphan, though I hope for no bad 


8° Reverend Ramon Ortiz was curate of El Paso del Norte. He 
was a shrewd, intelligent, and generous man. Kendall speaks of 
him in very complimentary terms, as treating with much kind- 
ness the Texan prisoners who were brought to El Paso by the 
notorious Salazar. He not only fed and clothed the men, but also 
gave them money. During the Mexican War he was suspected of 
sending information to Chihuahua. For this reason Colonel Doni- 
phan, on his march to Chihuahua, took him, Senor Pino, and 
several other influential men as hostages. Later when the soldiers 
were suffering from thirst, and while he was still a prisoner, he 


207 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL reosanne 


end. So far I find the family exceedingly kind and at- 
tentive. The affairs are in the hands of his two sisters 
Donia Anna Maria, a widow lady, and Dofia Rosalita, 
Dona Anna’s daughter, Dofia Josafa, with her three 
children compose the family. Dofia Anna Maria is a 
second Mrs. Ross in her person, age, conversation and 
manners. She is good & kind and seems to have rather 
the principal management, bears the name of a fa- 
vorite in the village, she is a mw Senora in my estima- 
tion. How much I am struck with their manner of 
rearing children. The little daughter of Dofia Josafita, 
only six years of age, carries with her the dignity of 
our girls of eighteen. It attracted my attention par- 
ticularly the evening I came, with the same ease of a 
lady much accustomed to society, she entered the 
room, with a polite bow and “Bonus tardes”’ [| Buenas 
tardes—good evening], shook hands with me and 
seated herself.—The eldest daughter of 17 years is 
sick with sarampion [| measles ]. 

Thursday 18th. 1 am altogether pleased with our 
boarding house—the inmates are exceedingly kind 
and exert themselves so much to make me enjoy my- 
self, *twould be cruel if I did not attend to their solici- 
tations. We have chocolate every morning on rising, 
breakfast about 10 o’k. dinner at two, chocolate again 
at dark, and supper at 9 o'clock, all are attentive, in- 
deed we are so free and easy, ’tis almost a hotel, meals 
are served in our own room, one of the ladies always be- 
ing in attendance to see and know if we are propperly 
attended to; the dishes are often changed, and well 
arranged to have water brought from the Del Norte for their 
use. At this time he was a man of about thirty years of age. 


208 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


prepared. I shall have to make me a recipe book, to 
take home, the cooking in every thing is entirely dif- 
ferent from ours, and some, indeed all of their dishes 
are so fine ‘twould be a, shame not to let my friends 
have a taste of them too. 

Don José Ygnacio Rouquia, his Senora and three 
little daughters called this P. M.; and la Senora Gar- 
cia and daughter. My book is drawing so near to a 
close, and I have so much to write each day, I shall 
only take a few notes on each hereafter. 

Friday 19th. We are all getting quite familiar and 
friendly in our dealings; as our acquaintance extends 
it is more agreeable, and to me more improving; as I 
am quite inquisitive, for I see so many new and strange 
ways of making every thing, I always ask something 
about it, and in return I give my way. I shall make me 
a recipe book. 

Sunday 21st. This morning I have been to mass— 
not led by idle curiosity, not by a blind faith, a belief 
in the creed there practiced, but because tis the house 
of God, and whether Christian or pagan, I can wor- 
ship there within myself, as well as in a protestant 
church, or my own private chamber. If I have sinned 
in going there in this belief, I pray for pardon for 
‘twas done in ignorance. I am not an advocate for 
the Catholic faith. It is not for me to judge; whether 
it be right or wrong; judgement alone belongs to God. 
If they are wrong we (if alone in the right way) are 
not to rail at them, but in brotherly love to use our 
little influence to guide them into the straight path. 
One thing among them they are sincere in what they 
do. I speak of the people; of the Priests and leaders I 

209 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL meses 


know nothing. I am told to “judge no man but to bear 
the burden of my brother.” As for myself I must first 
remove the beam from mine own eye, and then shall I 
see clearly to pull out the moat out of my brother’s 
eye. In my weakness I will endeavour to walk accord- 
ing to God’s laws, as my own understanding points 
them out to me; and at all times I have a help both in 
the light and in darkness. . . . The Sabbath is not 
enough observed, it is a day for visiting; and entirely 
contrary to my feelings and wishes, I have been 
obliged today to see several ladies that called; there is 
far more pleasure to me in my Bible, prayer book, and 
retirement, and if I could I would have it so; here we 
have but one room, and persons come in and out, to 
see me as they are in the habit of visiting other in- 
mates of the house. . . . I wish mz alma would observe 
the Sabbath more than he does, and, though ’tis the 
custom of the country to do otherwise, shut his store 
up. It hurts me more than I can tell; that he does not 
find six days of the week sufficient to gain the goods 
of this poor world, but is also constrained to devote 
the day that God himself has appointed us to keep 
holy, to the same business. And I too am to be a par- 
taker of the gain of this day! Oh, I hope and pray that 
the Lord will make us better, will create within our 
sinful breasts feelings holy and pious, loving his laws 
and commands more than we do, and desires to walk 
continually in the humble foot-steps of him who has 
offered himself as a guide and a light to those who 
walk in darkness. 

Monday 22nd—Tuesday 23rd. Both yesterday and 
today I have been returning my calls. Of all the houses 

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1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


and families I have visited that of Don Ygnacio Rou- 
quia pleases me most, to say nothing to disparage the 
others. Mrs. Rouquia is a lady easy in her own house, 
commanding respect from her servants, and respect- 
ful affection from her children, and exerting herself 
to entertain her visitors agreeably. Her house is large, 
though as yet unfurnished, and the placita quite 
pretty, for she takes pride in rearing choice fruit trees, 
as oranges, figs, apricots, almonds &c., all of which are 
tastefully arranged, while in the center of the patio she 
has a raised bed of earth some four feet, for flowers; 
she bears the name of an industrious housewife, and to 
me shows far better at home than abroad; her children 
are studying English and French, and their parents 
are very anxious to have them proficient in them. 
Don Y gnacio is a second George Washington in his 
appearance, and is altogether a great admirer of the 
man whose name is ever dear to the hearts of the 
American; he says the course Mr. Polk is persuing in 
regard to this war, is entirely against the principals of 
Washington, which were to remain at home, encour- 
age all home improvements, to defend our rights there 
against the incroachments of others, and never to in- 
vade the territory of an other nation. . . . Dofia Refu- 
jio, wife of Senor Belumdis, now a prisoner by Col. 
Doniphan, lives opposite to Don. Y. She isalady much 
given to talking, though perhaps means no harm by 
it; but to one not accustomed to such tis rather strange 
I must confess. Along with many like questions she 
asked me if I was never jealous of my husband, and 
when I could not understand what “zeloso” [jealous] 
meant she was quite particular to explain to me that 
211 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL [MARCH 


at that moment he might be off with his other Senorita. 
Oh, how I was shocked, I could have cried my eyes out 
for any one else to suppose such a thing let alone my- 
self! And how twould hurt him too if I should tell him, 
when my own heart tells me he is a husband as true 
as the world ever contained. I generally tell him every | 
thing that happens in my visiting, but this, I couldn't 
try his feelings so much, but you my poor journal 
must hear all whether good or bad, whether in praise 
or disparagement. 

Wednesday 3rd March 1847. Oh, the ups and 
downs of this world! One day we are in greatest life 
the next affairs bring different faces. A whole week 
has passed away since I wrote in my Journal, and for 
why, as my friends tell me I am so triste [sad]; and 
no wonder, when nothing but the dark bear walls of 
a Mexican prison are staring me in the face—in pros- 
pective only though. [ll see though if I can remember 
a few incidents since my last insercion; all last Wed- 
nesday I was half deranged with headache, (this is no 
good news) but notwithstanding, most of the day was 
spent I hope in doing good, making a chemise for 
“Maria la tonta’ [the stupid], this needs an explana- 
tion however. Maria is a deranged woman entirely de- 
pendent on the charities of the citizens, and to do them 
justice, I must say they are both liberal and attentive 
to her as well as the other poor. The first Sabbath I 
attended mass here, she discovered me in the church— 
an object of curiosity of course, at once signalized me 
by the name of “Nana” [aunt], and since that day she 
has been a constant visitor at my room. I am “Nana,” 
Dofia Josefa “Mama,’ mt alma “tata [tato 

212 





1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


brother], and Dofia Rufujio “Mana Juga” [Mama 
Fuja—a burlesque on the name Dofia Refujio], so 
we all have our respective names. She is truely sin- 
gular in her conversation, causing mirth at every word 
she says, while she herself appears more delighted if 
we laugh at her expressions than when we remain 
silent. She grew very angry with me this P. M. when 
she found I did not finish her garment, which on acct. 
of my head I was unable to do. A little coaxing, per- 
suading, fruit and money, reconciled her at the last 
and she bid me good bye till tomorrow. Don Sista, his 
wife Dona Francisca, and her sister Dona Josafita 
Albo made us a call this P. M. The ladies requested to 
see some modas Americanas, for dresses, so accord- 
ingly I opened four or five dresses, all of which seemed 
to strike their different tastes, tomorrow, with my per- 
mission, they will take two or three of them as patterns 
for a few days till they can cut or make themselves 
some. 

Friday 26th. This afternoon with Dofias Josafa y 
Rifujio, I called at Dofia Agapita’s, sat with them an 
hour or so, and returned home to hear nothing but bad 
news, viz: Gen. Taylor has been defeated in a great 
battle at San Luis Potosi, and taken prisoner with the 
whole of his army; that Gen. Wool is blockaded in 
Monterey; that a large fource is coming up from 
Durango to assist the Chihuahuans, who of themselves 
number they say 8000 now in arms, in capturing Col. 
Doniphan’s little army of 1000. Saturday has been 
a day of great suspense and further confirmation of 
the noticias de ayer [news of yesterday]. Sunday 

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morning I attended mass with the family, not for a 
show, but to worship God. 

Monday the first of March comes with a wind, and 
such news as makes at least two hearts sad, my heart 
aches to the very core for my husband’s sufferings of 
mind, and more too, when I sit down by him and he 
looks on me with sorrow and says he never in his life, 
though he has encountered many severe troubles, till 
now been troubled by his misfortunes; “in all others 
I have been alone, and could endure them patiently, 
but to think of you now, that you are compelled to en- 
dure so much it is too heart rending.” Eight men have 
arrived today from Chihuahua, still confirming the 
last news, with additions that Santa Anna is prepar- 
ing to invade Texas; and that a large fource is leaving 
Chi. to encounter Col. D. who has but six pieces of 
artillery, while the others have thirty-four pieces; that 
the enemy Mexican fources are commanded by ‘Trius, 
Jinedia, and Martinus, three good generals, that as 
soon as they have fixed Doniphan, which they look 
upon as fixed already, they will march on here to take 
New Mexico; that Brother James has been sent off to 
Durango, perhaps to Mexico [City], and who knows 
what will become of him, and is not all this enough to 
make our hearts sick? There is under these circum- 
stances no fate before us but to be taken by a band of 
lawless soldiers, every thing we have in the world seized 
and divided among themselves as pay for their services, 
while we are dragged off to prison, separated and may 
be forever. Oh, my dear husband would that I could 
relieve you of the anguish of mind you are labouring 
under! But alas, alas! I myself am no better off. It 

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1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


behooves me though to put on more fortitude than this. 
I must be his comfort and not his trouble. I can con- 
sole him a little, and that little in such times as these 
is a great deal. I can do all that’s in my power, and 
when that is done I can pray for him, for God ever 
liveth to “send help from the sanctuary, and strength 
out of Zion.” 

Tuesday the same as before; tonight a friend sends 
for mi alma and tells him im secret to be on his guard, 
that a mob is about to rise in the town and rob his 
waggons. And friends (for we have a few here) tell 
him every day that not only his wagons are observed 
but, that as soon as the least news favourable to the 
Mexican arms below, neither himself or his wife will 
be spared, we may be seized and murdered in a mo- 
ment for we are Americans, and though disposed to be 
peaceable, are here entirely against our own will, 
judgement and inclination, still we must suffer not- 
withstanding the efforts that this family, to whom we 
are and shall always be indebted for their unceasing 
kindness to us, say they would make to save us. A reck- 
less mob is an awful thing to peaceful citizens. 

But to speak one word in regard to this interesting 
family—our situations are truly singular; we have a 
brother prisoner in Chi.[ huahua], while they have one 
el Senor Cura [the priest ] held as hostage by our army 
for his safety, and we are here in the same house and 
as I trust, friends. I know on the part of ourselves we 
are sincere, and I have no right to doubt the sincerity 
of the others. I shall regret deeply when we have to 
leave them; twould be injustice to say that I like one 
' more than an other for I love them all. Mi alma has 
215 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL CARCH 


offered his services, and would either write or go him- 
self if he could be of any service to el Senor Cura as 
regards his liberation, but they are looking for him in 
a few days as liberated by his own countrymen.* 

W ednesday 3rd. Oh, such suspense we have been in 
this day! the citizens have been confidently expecting 
a courier bearing news fatal to us—but heartfelt 
thanks to the giver of all good, the prayers of a wicked 
servant have been heard and the evil so far as been 
withheld from us. Never could I wish harm to or exult 
over the other party, if I were able I would have all 
peace. Tonight a man has arrived a courier to us he 
says from brother James, with intelligence that he is 
still in Chi.[huahua] that the Mexican army consists 
of only 3000 men with nine pieces of cannon, and that 
they are now in a treaty in regard to their prisoners 
and will have no battle. We know not how to believe 
a word of it tho’ for he brings no letter or paper, and 
talks himself in such an insane way it all must be false, 
notwithstanding, true or false, it has raised our droop- 
ing spirits a little. I hope they will not fight. . . . Our 
wagons have been brought in today and placed in the 
square, under the protection of the civil authorities, to 
keep them from the mob. 

Friday 5th. Can we ever be too thankful for the 
mercy shown us by our Heavenly Father? Can we ever 
repay the debt we owe him for the preservation of our 
lives in all the danger that has surrounded us? But a 
day since, we were in hourly expectation of being 


* While at this house and in the critical situation we were in 
I never wrote all I might have done, for fear of my journal being 
seized had things gone with us differently. 


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1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


either murdered or sent off to prison, as a lawless set 
of robbers or spies, and now the scene is changed. We 
were struck with consternation about 12 o’clock today 
while quietly talking with our friend, Mr. White, Don 
Ygnacio Rouquia suddenly steped in at the door, with 
hair somewhat on ends and features ghastly. At once 
our minds were filled with apprehensions lest the dread 
sentence had been passed. Without seating himself, and 
scarcely saying good morning, he took Mr. Magof- 
‘ fin by the hand and led him out of the room in haste, 
and with tears in his eyes told him that “he was a Mexi- 
can, and it pained him to the heart to know that the 
American army had gained the battle” and taken pos- 


°° The battle of Sacramento River “not only gave increased 
reputation to our arms, but was one of the most important which 
occurred during the war in its results and effects. It was the 
means of keeping down the disturbances which had broken out 
in New Mexico a short time previous, and secured peace in our 
newly acquired possessions in that quarter. It made the Indian 
tribes look upon us as a race far superior to the Mexicans, and 
overawed them. It prevented a large amount of property in the 
hands of the traders from falling into their hands; property 
which was sufficient to have supported the whole Mexican Army 
for several months, and at that particular time would have been 
of the utmost value to Santa Anna and the government. We cap- 
tured the Black Flag which cut such a conspicuous figure at 
Brazito, but the bearer of it made his escape, and it was well he 
did, for our men would have made mincemeat of him. We found 
in a trunk three thousand dollars in copper coin which appeared 
to be their military chest, but the men made large acquisitions of 
silver and one I understand got one hundred doubloons.” (Gibson, 
“Diary of the Mexican War,” MS.) This “Black Flag” now hangs 
in the museum of the Missouri Historical Society at St. Louis. 

This battle was fought February 28, 1847, and lasted three 


217 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL nikon 


session of Chi.[huahua].” No particulars as yet are 
known, save that ’twas a severe battle, fought on Sun- 
day last, and we will have official accounts in a few 
days. I would not for the world exult or say one word 
to hurt the feelings of this family, but ’tis a natural 
consequence that I am delighted with the news. They 
were condoling with me the other day, and now ’tis 
in my power perhaps to offer them in return a little 
consolation in regard to el Senor Cura, who, this 
courier to Don Ygnacio says, is safe, and during the 
action remained with the other prisoners with the 
traders at their camp. He asserts the news we heard in 
regard to Gen. Taylor as false and that more Ameri- 
can forces are disembarking at Vera Cruz. With this 
I feel rather in better spirits than the other evening, 
when every moment almost I expected to hear news 
that would have made my heart sick, such as would 
have robbed me of the dearest thing, to me, on Earth, 
for a time, and may be forever. 

Sunday 7th. Attended mass this morning as usual, 
and passed the day after it, in reading; no visits much 
to my satisfaction. It is exceedingly windy these last 
few days, more so I believe than in Ky. this month; 
there is so much dust one cannot even stand at the 


and a half hours, with losses to the American forces of Major 
Owens killed, one mortally wounded, and seven others who 
recovered. The Mexican casualties were about three hundred 
killed and about the same number wounded, many of whom died 
later, and about forty prisoners. There were 924 effective Ameri- 
cans (at least one hundred of whom were engaged in holding 
horses and driving teams) opposed to almost four thousand 
Mexicans. 


218 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


door or window without having their eyes nearly put 
out, much less going into the street, where nothing 
scarcely can be seen but flying sand. Things in regard 
_ to the news of Friday continue quiet. 

Monday 8th. No curreo todo dia [No courier all 
day |, but contradictions of the news of the 5th. Last 
night or evening about twilight the whole village was 
thrown into commotion by the reported arrival of two 
Pueblo Indians, sent on from the last settlement be- 
low, by the alcalde [mayor] of that place, Sorocco, 
who they say arrived there yesterday, fainting from a 
wound received in the battle of the 28th ultimo. 'The 
news is, they fought all day Sunday, and commenced 
again on Mon. that a great many have been killed, and 
among the number EK Senor Cura and Don Sibastien. 
As he left on Sunday he cannot tell the final termina- 
tion of the battle, but gives this as his opinion, that 
though American arms gained the first day, the Mexi- 
cans will have the last for they were receiving recruits 
from below. Tues. this news was proven false, for the 
wisdom of the place got together, made search for the 
bearers of this, and they could never be found, as they 
had not arrived in the city. But this did not stop the 
movements of Dofia Ana Maria, interest for her 
brother is first, and lest the news might be true she 
dispatched a servant to Socorro, to see if the reported 
arrival of the Senor Ruis were true, and to learn from 
his own mouth the particulars. The servant returned 
this morning about day-break with the expression, 
(very common now adays) “todo es mentira” [the 
whole thing is a falsehood], then of one burden we 
are freed. This morning a letter was brought to the 

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DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL [MARCH 


wife of Don Sibastien written by Ruis, from Chi. 
[huahua] or very near there, in which he says the 
Americans have gained the action, and not to be un- 
easy for the prisoners, that they have been treated by 
the American troops as officers and either have or are 
soon to have their liberty, 1 forget which. 

Tuesday 9th. An other man arrives this A. M. but 
still no official express. He says the Americans have 
entered Chi.; the Mexican forces left it for Durango; 
el Senor Cura is at liberty and will be here in a day or 
two; brother James has been sent off some place he 
does not know where; and that our friend Col. Owens” 


®t Samuel C. Owens emigrated to Missouri when he was very 
young, and became prominent among the early settlers. He was 
a native of Kentucky, the son of Nathaniel Owens, one of the 
wealthiest and most influential men of Green County, Kentucky. 
The famous Mary Owens, courted by Abraham Lincoln during her 
sojourn at New Salem, Illinois, and who afterwards became Mrs. 
Jesse Vineyard of Weston, Missouri, was half-sister to Samuel 
Owens. Colonel Owens, as he was popularly known, was the first 
clerk of Jackson County, Missouri, and served also as clerk of the 
county court, recorder of deeds, and representative in the state 
legislature. He operated large caravans along the trail, was one 
of the principal wholesalers connected with the Mexican trade, 
and had also a general store on the southeast corner of the Square 
at Independence, Missouri. Many of his purchases were made in 
Philadelphia, being brought by the Ohio, Mississippi, and Mis- 
souri rivers from Pittsburgh. 

During the Mexican War, Owens was with other traders on 
the Santa Fé trail. In obedience to the orders of General Kearny, 
all traders and caravans were required to accompany Colonel 
Doniphan’s command. This was to keep their large stores from 
falling into the hands of the enemy and thus supplying him for 
his military campaign. Shortly before the battle of Sacramento, 


220 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


was killed in the battle by a rifle ball shot at him, a 
league and a half off; it is a great rifle that, equal to 
the report of the first arrival of the American canon. 


Doniphan impressed these traders and most of their teamsters 
into military service, forming an extra battalion of one hundred 
and fifty men under the command of Owens as their major, and 
Messrs. Skillman and Glasgow as their captains. These took part 
in the battle of Sacramento. It may be noted here that the United 
States Government never paid these men and never allowed them 
pensions, the reason given being that Colonel Doniphan had no 
legal authority to create new companies of troops. 

During the battle of Sacramento a charge was made by four 
of the companies upon one of the twenty-eight Mexican redoubts 
which had proved especially troublesome. The charge of these 
companies was not made simultaneously, and through some con- 
fusion of orders they paused in a dangerous position. Captain 
Reid, of one of the companies, dashed ahead, accompanied by only 
a few men, including Major Owens, who had joined them volun- 
tarily. Upon nearing the enemy Captain Reid and the others 
turned to the left and ran along the Mexican front past several 
redoubts, drawing the fire of the entire Mexican line. This cir- 
cumstance made it necessary for the Mexicans to reload their 
flintlock guns and the delay incident thereto permitted the whole 
American line to get over the redoubts and rout the Mexican 
Army. Major Owens, instead of turning with the others, who 
escaped unhurt, charged single-handed upon the Mexican re- 
doubt, and both he and his horse were killed. 

There have been various comments upon this spectacular 
bravery of Major Owens. Colonel Doniphan said in a letter to a 
mutual friend: “He lost his life by excessive bravery, or rather 
rashness. He rode up to the redoubt, filled with armed men, and 
continued to fire his pistols into it until himself and horse fell, 
pierced with balls, upon its very brink.” 

Major Owens had recently suffered a very sad domestic 
| tragedy, and there were many who thought he welcomed death. 
One account says that he went into battle dressed in white and 


221 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL [MARCH 


We, viz: Donias Josefita and Rafujio went out from 
town about a league this P. M. to return the call of 
Dofia Guadalupe Herques or Heques, an old lady 
who has honoured us in her visit. She is, now I should 
think, upwards of sixty and perhaps quite 70 years 
of age; her hair is perfectly gray and of its self calls 
respect, she has her home affairs carried on with out 
any bustle or confusion, she is exceedingly active and 
attends to it herself in person, carrying about her 
bunch of keys large and heavy enough to fatigue any 
common woman. Her whole family of children and 
grand children big and little came in and saluted us; 
and in half an hour or less after our arrival chocolate 
was brought. She questioned me a great deal about 
the U. S., my own family &c. and as she is a lady of no 


mounted upon a white horse, so as to be an easy target for the 
enemy. One of his men is reported as saying that before the 
battle he shaved and dressed himself with care because “he did 
not know what might happen and knew of no more honorable or 
desirable end than to die in battle.” 

After the arrival of the troops at Chihuahua, Major Owens, 
who was a Catholic, was buried with great pomp. The ceremonies 
were conducted by Mexican priests. In the church there was a 
procession of priests, singing as they marched, with music from 
different and strange kinds of instruments, and about three 
hundred lighted candles set around the place where the corpse 
lay. The body was interred with both Masonic and military 
honors. 

The death of Major Owens was a great loss to the traders; 
they could better have spared almost any other man. His influ- 
ence was great and his judgment sound. He was an “outfitter” 
who would trust them for wagons, teams, provisions, and every- 
thing necessary for a trip, and he counseled them as if they were 
his children. 


222 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


trifling mind I gave her the best information I had on 
all subjects; finally she concluded with sympathies 
for Mama in regard to my being so far from her, and 
hoped that God would permit me again to return to 
her in health and happiness. 

All day Thursday we have remained without news! 
What happens? 

Friday 10th. Well joy to this family, el Senor Cura 
has at last returned; arrived this morning about 10 
o clock. The news is as we have heard all along. Doni- 
phan is in possession of Chi.[ huahua]; the battle was 
not a severe one lasting only about 30 minutes, and 
not more than seven to fourteen killed on either side; 
but it is true in regard to our friend Owens, who was 
appointed Lieut. Col. of a company formed of the 
wagoners, and was in the front of the battle; he was 
shot with two rifle balls one through the head the 
other through the breast, each of them mortal wounds, 
and a canon ball broke both legs about the knees; he 
was interred with military honours in Chi.[huahua | 
and has left a name behind not soon to fade from the 
annals of our country; but what does that name profit 
him now? has it brought him a crown in Heaven, has 
it won him a seat at his Savior’s feet? if not, it may be 
that name has ruined him. 

Sunday 14th. Succorro [Socorro]. We left El 
Passo this A. M., about 11 o’ck. and after a ride of 
six hours, jolting over saquias [ acequias—ditches | till 
I scarcely knew myself, and stoping under a big tree 
to lunch, we arrived at this little village south of the 
Pass, here we remain tonight. 

W ednesday 17th. Once more at camp, after remain- 

223 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL rhaor 


ing two days at the Presidio where we went to from 
Succorro on Monday, at the house of Montiz, the 
agent or superintendent to the business of our friend 
Don Ygnacio Rouquia. I can’t like very much this 
plan of stoping at houses while we are travelling 
through the settlements. I am better satisfied in my 
tent; there is more ease, more comfort, more inde- 
pendence, tho’ our host and hostess exerted themselves 
no doubt to the fullest extent of their power, and we 
were contented with all, still the luxuries of this little 
home surpass the whole. I was sick from the time we 
got there till we left and for my part, had the cooking 
been ever so exquisite all would have been alike to me; 
but my poor querido [darling], I am sure he gained 
no more flesh from eating onions, dried meat, cold 
beans, and tortillas. I often thought of some of the 
nicely prepared dishes we had at the Cura’s. 

Thursday 18th. We have made a long drive today, 
and crossed a branch of the River, quite a bold little 
stream, camped tonight on the bank of it, first burn- 
ing off the tall grass, as this windy March weather in- 
sures no safety in case of a fire, and tho’ the Rio is near 
twould take a N. Y. fire co. to save us from being 
burned to death. 

Monday 22. Ojo [Spring]. We are just through an 
other jornada. Saturday evening we started into it, 
travelled all that night nearly; stoped near daylight, 
rested some two hours, took a little sleep, and started 
again, travelled till noon, stoped a few hours, and 
then drove on till mid-night, rested till day—and 
started again, and now at noon we have made the first 
water, a mean little spring out in the level plain; the 

224 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


water is black, and standing, the animals are sent off 
some three miles to a laguna where they get fresh 
water. Here we shall remain tonight, and I hope I 
shall have something more to do in the sleeping line, 
than I’ve had these last two nights past. . . . I wonder 
where Don Santiago (the Frenchman) is, that he is 
not up with us today. I fear he with his three little 
wagons one [may] have gotten into some difficulty, 
yesterday when our wagons stoped in the road a few 
minutes and detained him that long, as he was behind, 
he concluded “he travel well, he go ahead wid his 
teams”; since he does not “go ahead” I fear for him. 

Tuesday 23rd. 'This morning we have passed a per- 
fect curiosity, a spring in the top of a hill; which occu- 
pies I think an acre of ground; the spring itself is some 
six feet wide, the water clear, rather warm and runs 
off down the side of the hill loosing itself in the sand 
at its foot. And again this P. M. we visited a warm 
spring on an other elevation; the sand boils in it all 
over bursting in one place and then an other, and re- 
quiring I should think immense fource; as yet no bot- 
tom has been found to it; the water is perfectly clear 
some eighteen inches in depth, when the sand is met 
with, it is in constant motion below as far as the clear 
water will admit of a sight. Of the two springs this 
to me is the most curious; one is a cold spring in the 
top of a high sand-hill, the other a boiling spring, both 
of them curiosities to any one. 

Wednesday 24th. Carazal. Or rather on the sequia 
[ acequia—canal] of Carazal, some three quarters of 
a mile from the village; the water is perfectly clear 
lime-stone water, the first I have seen since we left 

225 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL MARCH 


Santa Fe, siv months, and in truth, its pure, sweet 
taste so astonished me on tasting it, I really stoped to 
see if I were drinking water, or something else.—I 
have often heard and read of odd curiosities met with 
in travels and of curiosities in the form of men com- 
posing companies, but there can be none more curious 
than a few individuals in ours. First on the list I be- 
lieve stands John the Dutchman—or as he is called by 
his companions in service “Dutch”; his length and 
bredth are as near the same as some writers describe 
as being equal, i.e. he is about five feet five inches in 
height, with shoulders something more than two feet, 
he suits well for an ox driver with his gees and “wo 
dares”; he is generally silent, but when he does speak, 
it is all the most perfectly earnest, dry and in Dutch 
E'nglish—Patrick the Irishman is quaint enough, 
making one laugh at all his witty sayings which by the 
way are not a few. He loves his “drap” now and then 
much to the annoyance of his employer the Detr.; 
these two with Don Santiago, who by the way is quite 
angry with “Mr. Uite, because he swap me two bad 
hoxen for my good hox, one of de hoxen he give me I 
have to leave him in de road and dat is charging me 
$18. for my good hoxen. I will remember Mr. Uite.” 
Thursday 25. Ojo Caliente [Hot spring]. Left 
Caresel this A. M. about 10 o’clock arrived here 
(twelve miles) by 3 o’k P. M., here we shall visit a 
day or two, prior to starting into the last jornada. 
The “Ojo Caliente’ is a pretty place; the water 
bursts out at the foot of a hill making a beautiful pool, 
which is some four or five feet deep, perfectly clear, 
and warm; it runs off into a beautiful and long stream; 
226 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


it is the regular and last camping spot before enter- 
ing an other jornada of 50 miles. 

Monday 29th. Guyllego spring. A. most beautiful 
spot indeed, well may one rejoice at passing that last 
long jornada, for they not only leave it behind them 
forever perhaps—but they exchange it for one of na- 
ture’s “beauty spots.” The spring which takes its name 
from a place in old Spain, (whether a spring or cave 
I know not) is at the foot of an exceeding high moun- 
tain, so steep and rocky it looks wholly impassable for 
man; on either side are similar ones, steep, rugged and 
perpendicular; the spring resembles a cave, though 
a very small one, the water is rather warm, runs off 
in a brisk little branch, forming a small pool one hun- 
dred yards from the spring; from this first pool it 
runs off some 100 and twenty to fifty yards, forming 
two others rather larger than the first; for a quarter 
of a mile before reaching the spring, are green trees 
and bushes, all of which are new to me; one resembles 
the box elder of the U. S., and one the ash, of which 
they must be species. 

W ednesday 31. Salt Lake, We made our travel for 
today, last night leaving the Guyllego spring at 2 
o clock yesterday P. M. we made this water twenty 
five or thirty miles, at two drives, by 1 o’clock last 
night. Here we find Don Santiago who came ahead 
of us on Monday. I suppose he still think he go very 
well, as he believe he go ahead in de morning. We are 
getting into the neighborhood of Chihuahua, having 
passed some two or three ranchos. The lake we are en- 
camped on is some ten miles in length, situated on the 
right side of the road. Well the Detr. has left us, gone 

227 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL capa. 


on to report himself not yet dead or lost, but only re- 
maining behind till all the battles are fought. I shant 
say for what—I suppose he himself knows. 

Thursday 1st April 1847. Today we are encamped 
on a little stream seperating us from the little village 
of Ynsenias [Encinillas], the place where Mr. Gregg 
had his little difficulty with Gov. Trius [Trias], in 
regard to beef cattle he unceremoniously took, here 
a similar occurrance has taken place with us, without 
any law suits however; two beeves were shot down 
yesterday by our half-starved camp, while they were at 
work skining &c. the owner made his appearance and 
demanded his pay, which was promptly done—$12. 
in goods each, and he disappeared rather better satis- 
fied than his excellency the Governor is represented 
to have been. Our travels now are made altogether 
after night on account of the heat. Though it is not 
very agreeable to me, as my head and stomach are 
somewhat delicate of late. I came to travel and there- 
fore take it patiently, as a custom of the road. 

Saltillo May 23rd 1847, I have been so negligent of 
late I scarcely know how to begin my journal again. 
Since the Ist of April has been a long time, many 
things have transpired, and we have travelled a long 
distance. I cannot now go into full detail but will 
merely give a brief sketch. We arrived at Chihuahua 
on the 4th April; here we found Col. Doniphan’s 
command occupying the city, and a beautiful sight 
they have made of it in some respects. Instead of see- 
ing it in its original beauty as I thought to have done 
twelve months since, I saw it filled with Missouri vol- 
unteers who though good to fight are not careful at all 

228 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


how much they soil the property of a friend much 
less an enemy. The good citizens of Chi. had never 
dreamed I dare say that their loved homes would be 
turned into quarters for common soldiers, their fine 
houses many of them turned into stables, the rooves 
made kitchens of, their public pila [drinking foun- 
tain] used as a bathing trough, the fine trees of their 
beautiful alamador [alameda—public walk] barked 
and forever spoiled, and a hundred other deprivations 
equal to any of these, but yet all has been done; Chi- 
huahua was quite an indifferent looking place when 
I saw it. We took a comfortable house a square off 
from the plaza, as none could be had in it, and spent 
three weeks in it as pleasantly as we could under the 
circumstances; the families all had left, so I of course 
saw none of them. I only made the acquaintance of 
two gentlemen only, Don José Cordero and Don 
Pedro Olivares, two of the first in the place and friends 
of my husband’s. The latter is a very affable man, in- 
telligent, has visited the U. S. and speaks some Eng- 
lish; we often had hearty laughs, he and I. He always 
spoke to me in English and I to him in Spanish and 
I think I learned quite as much in the few conversa- 
tions I had with him, as I have with any one person in 
a much longer time. The family of Mr. Potts” an 


82 John Potts, an Englishman, was acting English consul at 
Chihuahua, and president of the Mining Company and Mint. 
When Colonel David D. Mitchell arrived in Chihuahua he was 
directed to make search of all the principal houses for contraband 
of war. On March 4, 1847, he reached the residence of Governor 
Trias, who had deserted the city. Finding it locked he called for 
the key. Mr. Potts came forward and stated that the governor 


229 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL MAY 


Englishman, and owner of the mint, I visited several 
times, dined with them once, supped twice, and rode 
with the Ladies, i.e. Mrs. P. and her sister Miss 
Meadows to see their summer retreat. They are quite 
lively, play on the harp and piano, and make the time 
of their visitors pass agreeably. 

After a short stay, and on a very short notice, the 
troops having been ordered to join Gen. Taylor, or 
to return by this route home, we left there on the 28th 
April.”* 


And now for our travel down; I must first say 1 


had left the house and its contents in his charge, and that neither 
Colonel Mitchell nor anyone else should enter it. He contended 
that it was under the British flag, and any violation would be 
reported to his government. Colonel Mitchell replied that he 
must go in; and that he had a key which would open the door. 
He sent his sergeant for two howitzers, which he had referred 
to as the key, lit a match and was advancing, when the English- 
man begged him not to fire, as his brother was in the house. He 
then surrendered the key to Colonel Mitchell. An examination of 
the house was made and nothing but private property was found, 
which was respected. 

°3 On March 1, 1847, the Americans entered Chihuahua. Doni- 
phan issued a proclamation based upon those previously issued 
by General Kearny, in which he announced that the United States 
by virtue of its conquest laid claim to the state of Chihuahua. 
General Wool not having codperated with him, Doniphan was at 
a loss to know what to do. He sent a small body of men to General 
Wool asking to be allowed to join Taylor’s army. On April 22 
this detachment returned and shortly afterwards Doniphan with 
his whole force abandoned Chihuahua and started towards Sal- 
tillo. They reported to General Wool on May 22 and were re- 
viewed by him near the field of Buena Vista. In his general orders 
General Wool highly complimented these Missourians. On May 


230 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


trust fortune will never compell me to make the same 
again. I thought I had done some very hard travelling 
before and in truth I had, but, this has surpassed all. 
We travelled regularly 20, 25, 30 and 35 miles a day, 
for three successive weeks, resting but two days of 
the time, and over the worst roads I ever saw in my 
life. Many nights I have layed down not to sleep for 
my bones ached too much for that, even had I had 
the time, but to rest an hour or two prior to traveling 
the remainder and greater portion of the night to get 
a little ahead of the command; some times I slept not 
above two hours out of the twenty-four. The dust 
every day was almost suffocating; if we went a head 
of all, we had no satisfaction in any thing, if we stoped 
to rest a few moments, they crowded on too. 

Saltillo, Mexico June 20th 1847. An alarm this 
morning of the approach of the enemy, one or two 
piquets cut off. Gen. Wool has ordered the citizens to 
form a company, to assemble on the hill above the city, 
at the fireing of a cannon, for its defense; he himself 
has taken severel pieces of cannon from the fortifica- 
tion, to his encampment, there to act from circum- 
stances, to be governed by the movements of the foe. 
Our fources are small not more than 2000 and prob- 
ably only 1,500, while those of the enemy are reported 
14,000, nine to one. I’ve heard of wars and rumours of 
wars and have been as I thought almost in them, but 
this is nearer than ever—TI presume long ere this an 


27 they reported to General Taylor at Monterey. From there they 
proceeded by way of Matamoras and New Orleans to St. Louis, 
reaching home about the first of July, 1847, after an absence of 
thirteen months. 


231 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL ‘FUN 


express has been despatched to Gen Taylor at Mon- 
teray, and in a little time reinfourcements must be 
here. ’twill take a day to go there, and one and a half 
to come, so we ought to have assistance by Tuesday 
morning. The enemy are on what is called Pelomas 
road from San Luis Potosi. 

6 o'clock P. M. Cpt Howard™ has just stoped a 
minute at the street window and gives us the latest. 
One of the piquets reported to have been taken has 
returned, the other not yet heard of. Dr. Johnson the 
Gen’s interpretor out from town some five or six miles 
was attacked by a small party of he thinks regular 
cavalry and wounded in the arm, and a book in his 
cap only saved his skull from being cleaved the cap. 
and one back of the book having been cut in its place. 
Scouting parties have been sent out in all directions, 
well mounted and prepared to retreat if necessary. 
Cpt H is just starting himself with a few dragoons 
to learn something of the enemy . . . Maj. Wash- 
ington” I see is active in moving some of the artillery 


°¢ John Eager Howard was born in Maryland. He was com- 
missioned captain of a company of infantry February 23, 1847, 
and brevetted major September 13, 1847, for gallant and meri- 
torious conduct in the battle of Chapultepec, Mexico. Major 
Howard was honorably discharged August 25, 1848. He died in 
1862. 

°° John M. Washington was a native of Virginia and a gradu- 
ate of West Point. He was appointed October 24, 1814, and as- 
signed to artillery July 17, 1817; served in Florida War 1836- 
1838, and with General Wool’s column in war with Mexico, as 
major. Washington commanded a battery at Buena Vista and 
was promoted for gallantry in that engagement. He was acting 
governor of Saltillo, Mexico, June 24 to December 14, 1847; 


232 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


to a more advantageous situation than he has probably 
occupied. . . . I am really tired—we have counted 
and baled up all the money in the house, ready to send 
it to a safer place in case of necessity. All the pistols 
and guns have been cleaned and loaded. I shall say I 
had a hand in this too. Dr. [James] Hewitson has 
been down and very kindly invited us to go to his 
house in the plaza, which perhaps not more safe than 
our own, will be rather more cheerful if there can be 
anything cheerful in such times. I’ve thrown a few 
things into my trunk in case of a retreat. 

9 o’clock—still nothing positive, the streets are 
quiet, a strong patrol is moving thro’ all parts of the 
city, some three or four hundred of the N. C. volun- 
teers from Monterey will be in by 11 o’clock as the 
express to meet them reports them but a little distance 
off, and marching. I think I'll now retire, to rest an 
attack is expected by some, tho’ all is quiet now, to 
morrows sun may tell another story for Saltillo. 

Monday 21st. 'The sun rises as bright as ever this 
morning, and brings us no news of troops being very 
near; this after all, I believe is going to be what Cpt. 
Donaldson calls a stampede, I hope so. Mz querido 
[my darling], since he sees no danger yet, has ven- 
tured to tell me what I did not know last night. An at- 


chief of artillery of General Wool’s division March 12 to De- 
cember 9, 1847, and of the army of occupation December 9 to 
May 80, 1848. Was civil and military governor of New Mexico 
October, 1848, to October, 1849. On December 24, 1853, he was 
washed overboard during a violent storm and drowned, with a 
number of the troops, while traveling to California. Of one 
hundred and eighty soldiers and four officers only two survived. 


233 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL cream 


tack was certainly expected, he had made the arrange- 
ments with Cpt. Donaldson” to attach himself to his 
company after having taken me to the safest point 
nearest the redoubt on the hill, he was too sad all last 
evening to speak scarcely and no wonder, when all 
dear to him in the world might be ere long left in a 
stranger land with out a protector and heart broken. 
The reflection that the next day might put an end to 
his existance and this must then be the consequence, 
or even if he should survive to be left penniless with 
more than himself to feel its effects, (tho’ God knows 
this would have been cheerfully bourn by me) either 
were enough to dround even the feeling of any one 
more especially of one who has the soul to feel as he 
has. I was alarmed and sad enough to think of the 
danger we must be in in any house, that Wm who 
attached himself to the company of citizens might 
be killed, that numbers of my countrymen must perish 
and perhaps all of us cut off by the over whelming 
number of the enemy, tis well I knew nothing of my 
husbands thoughts or designs. I am only thankful 
now that none of the latter were fourced into execu- 
tion, and that we are still safe; as we hear from San 
Luis potosi direct this morning and no one from there 


°6 James Lowry Donaldson was appointed to the United States 
Military Academy from Maryland, his native state, on September 
1, 1832. He was sent from there into the 3d Artillery July 1, 
1886, and after successive promotions was made major, February 
23, 1847, for gallantry in battle of Buena Vista. On March 138, 
1865, he was made a major-general, on account of meritorious 
service in war between the states. He resigned January 1, 1874, 
and died November 4, 1885. 


234 


Pete SS V2 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN. 


is coming. Tis said that a letter has been intercepted 
by Gen Taylor’s spies, from Gen Urea” to the wealthy 
Sanchez of this place telling him to be ready on the 
20th (yesterday) with his rancheros, that he himself 
would be here that day with 6000 men to sack the city. 
Those seen yesterday & the day before might have 
been his spies but he knowing of his failure in his ex- 
press has kept himself at a propper distance. 

Friday 25th A company of Virginians has just 
past out to Buena Vista. Tis sad to see them really, 
and my heart ached as I looked on so many manly 
forms and fearless faces, who have left homes and 
friends many of them destined never to return; all 
looked determined and eager. I particularly marked 
one of them a youth of apparently eighteen years; his 
face was pale, young and innocent; he moved with a 
step worthy of riper years; his musket was bourn on 
his right side clasped firmly by his left hand, on the 
finger of which I observed a ring, placed there per- 
haps by a fond and only sister—or it may be the 
pledge of the maiden of his youthful heart, whose love 


®7 General José Urrea distinguished himself in the Texan- 
Mexican War by capturing a small force of Texans under the 
command of Captain King, March 11, 1835. Two days later 
General Urrea captured the entire force of Colonel Ward, a 
Texan, consisting of 112 men; he also captured Colonel Fannin, 
another Texan, and all his men. In 1839 Urrea headed a revolu- 
tion against President Anastacio Bustamante, and had the auda- 
city to undertake, surreptitiously, the capture and apprehension 
of Bustamante by surprising the guard at the presidential man- 
sion and entering the president’s sleeping apartment. Busta- 
mante was attacked and arrested before he could realize what 
was happening. (Benjamin M. Read, of Santa Fé, New Mexico.) 


235 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL LULY 


he now wishes to make himself more worthy of by 
some brave deed— 

Friday, July 2nd Wrote a long letter to Mama this 
evening. I do wish I could have a letter from home; 
how lonely it is, week after week & month after month, 
and I hear nothing more than if I never belonged 
to their numbers. ’twould indeed give new energy to 
my being to hear from them, quite a new creature I 
should feel but as it is I am perfectly isolated. 

Sunday, July 4th 'The second one passed from home 
and out of the U. S. tho’ in quite a different way from 
the last, and in a much more agreeable one. I wish they 
(the officers) had defered the celebration til the 
5th, they would have shown more stamina of charac- 
ter in observing the Sabbath religiously, and estab- 
lishing the customs of the U. S. here, instead of 
following the example of this people in making it a 
feasting day. | 

Gen Kearny I am sure would have defered it, and 
by his own example have taught others the propriety 
of remembering the Sabbath to keep it holy. Gen. 
Wool had a grand review of his command at Buena 
Vista in the morning. 'To avoid complying with an in- 
vitation to dine with the officers we accepted one to 
dine at Dctr Hewitsons with his family only. We had 
a variety of dishes all served in Mexican style, vege- 
table, beef, fowl, a nicely stuffed and roasted cabrita 
[kid ]—and a good dessert, the recipes for making 
which I must get of Mrs. H. after dinner which lasted 
an hour, in true Mexican modo we were shewn into a 
nice bed-room with an invite to a siesta; at 5 oclock we 
came home, with a promise to return after tea to see 

236 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


the rockets to be thrown up in the public square— 
Here we met with several gentlemen—one Cpt Web- 
ster’ who tells us that Maj. Hunter” the quarter- 
master at Monterey has written to him when we in- 
tend leaving for the U. S. that he wishes to place Mrs. 
H, who was bold enough to follow her husband to the 
wars, under the Magoffins protection, she has seen 


°° Lucian B. Webster was born in the state of Vermont and 
appointed to United States Military Academy, August 28, 1819. 
From there he went into the artillery, and after several promo- 
tions became captain of the Ist Artillery September 30, 1836. He 
was engaged in the battles of Monterey and Buena Vista. Bre- 
vetted major September 23, 1846, for gallant and meritorious 
conduct in the several conflicts at Monterey, and lieutenant- 
colonel February 23, 1847, for gallant conduct in the battle of 
Buena Vista. He was made major of the 4th Artillery August 3, 
1852, and on November 4, 18538, died at Fort Brown, Texas, aged 
fifty-two years. 

°° David Hunter was appointed to West Point, September 14, 
1818, from the District of Columbia, where he was born. From 
there he went into the infantry July 1, 1822. He served on the 
frontier from 1823 to 1835 and resigned July 4, 1836. On March 
14, 1842, he was reappointed with rank of major on the staff of 
the paymaster. He was chief paymaster of General Wool’s 
column on his march through Mexico in 1846, and of the army of 
occupation 1847-1848; was colonel of 6th Cavalry May 14, 1861, 
and was wounded in the battle of Bull Run, Virginia, on July 
21, 1861; soon afterwards was made major-general of volunteers. 
Brevetted major-general in the regular army March 13, 1865, 
for gallant service in war between the states. He served on the 
military commission for trial of alleged conspirators in the 
assassination of President Lincoln, May 9 to July 6, 1865. He 
retired July 31, 1866, being over sixty-two years of age, and 
died February 2, 1886. 

237 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL Paey 


quite enough of the elephant,*” and is now anxious to 
return to the U. S. The Cpt speaks of her as a lady 
with whom I can enjoy myself. dear knows I am glad 
to hear of a lady again, an American, with whom I 
can sit & converse freely, and about things that each 
of us are acquainted with. An other individual at the 
dctrs, was an Irishman named I cant say what, for 
I cant recollect it—but he is worthy of a remark, hav- 
ing as he says been in every place, is one day a British 
subject, the next a Louisiana Irishman, and many 
other changes, he is as gray as ever man can be, and 
tho’ he says himself that he is only 45, [ll venture to 
say he’ll never see sixty again. he is an incessant talker, 
and tells of his leaving Erin when a mere boy, of his 
having lived many years in Kingston Jamaica, a long 
time & dozens of other places, and is climated every- 
where. his age tho’ is the worst point with him as he 
wishes to get married, and as he must know too well 
that his looks speak nothing in favour of his youth, he 
makes his tongue do the business, and broaches it on 
all occasions he is not a little tormented either by his 
countryman the Detr who invariable gives him a rub. 

Friday 9th Cpt Prentice’ called with Cpt. or 


10° “T’ve seen the elephant.’’ When a man is disappointed in 
anything he undertakes, when he has seen enough, when he gets 
sick and tired of any job he may have set himself about, he has 
“seen the elephant.” (Kendall, vol. 1, p. 109.) 

*0t James H. Prentiss was born in Massachusetts, and ap- 
pointed to the United States Military Academy July 1, 1826, 
from the state of Indiana. He served in the Florida war against 
the Seminole Indians as first lieutenant and aide-de-camp to 
General Eustis, being in the skirmish of Okihumphy Swamp 
March 380, 1836. During the Mexican War he was assistant ad- 


238 


a 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


Lieut. Rucker,” to hear our final decision in regard 
to leaving for Monterey, as the only hinderance (the 
wagons) was made known to him, they may possibly 
be disposed of thro’ his instrumentality to govern- 
ment. I long to see the day when they are sold, now 
for the last fourteen months I’ve seen and heard more 
of wagons than in all my life before. 

Friday 16th This P. M. with Mrs Hewitson in my 
carriage with myself, the Dctr and mi alma on horse 
back, we rode to the cotton factory of the former gent. 
situated six miles South of Saltillo; the road some 
times rough but pleasant and tis many days since I 
enjoyed a ride so much, after being shut up in town 


jutant-general under General Wool on the march through Chi- 
huahua, September 12 to December, 1846, and later in command 
of a battery of heavy artillery. After the war Lieutenant Prentiss 
was on frontier duty at Fort Polk, Texas, where he died Sep- 
tember 22, 1848, aged thirty-nine years. 

102 Daniel Henry Rucker was born in Belleville, New Jersey, 
April 28, 1812. He entered the army from Michigan as second 
lieutenant of Ist Dragoons October, 1837, served in Michigan 
and against the Indians in the West and Southwest, and was 
promoted to captain February 7, 1847. In the war with Mexico 
he commanded a squadron at the battle of Buena Vista, and was 
brevetted major February 23, 1847, for gallant and meritorious 
conduct in that battle. He was commissioned major quarter- 
master August 3, 1861, and by further promotions reached the 
grade of brigadier-general of volunteers May 23, 1863. He was 
mustered out of volunteer service, and afterwards, July 18, 1866, 
was commissioned colonel and assistant quartermaster-general of 
the regular army, and brigadier-general February 13, 1882, 
retiring February 23, 1882. For diligent and meritorious service 
during the Civil War he was brevetted major-general of the 
United States Army and United States Volunteers. 


239 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL [JULY 


for so long a time, the pure country air was truely de- 
lightful, and made me wish to be again travelling. 
Well we went through the Dctrs factory from the 
lowest to the. uppermost room; tis by no means on a 
small scale. From this we proceeded to the village 
church, which like all others in the country, is adorned 
with a goodly number of saints, both figures and 
paintings all of which are time worn and indifferent 
looking; the alter is entirely gilded and has rather a 
glittering appearance; we found it dressed over with 
fresh flowers, the patron saint of the place is repre- 
sented by a small wax figure inclosed within a glass 
door above the alter, around the sides of which are 
hung many small paintings, emblematic of our 
Saviors and the apostles lives. After visiting these 
places we went to see Mrs Bently an American 
woman, and wife of the mayor domo of the establish- 
ment, a plain good woman, from New Jersey. She 
gave us a cup of coffee with some nice light-bread and 
butter truely American, after a hearty repast we re- 
turned to town, arriving sometime. after 7 o'clock. 

Saturday 17th There is some talk of an other stam- 
pede report says that Cpt Rucker’s company of 
dragoon scouts has been cut off by 3000 Mex., and a 
picket guard comes in in haste to the General saying 
they had seen some 3000 Mexicanos, but all except a 
few were without arms. I think they must have seen a 
flock of goats. a Mexican reports himself to gov. 
Washington, saying tis the intention of his country- 
men here to rise and cut off the Americans, but I since 
the last stampede have grown too incredulous to any 
of the reports I hear. 

240 


> nS “ 
ee a a ee 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


Wednesday 21st Dctr and Mrs Hewitson came 
around about 4 o’clock this P. M. to take us, accord- 
ing to a promise, to see the church, which is pro- 
nounced a facsimile of all the churches of Mexico. The 
interior is truely magnificent and to describe it mi- 
nutely requires the pen of a Kendall*” or a Prentiss." 
The form is a sala with two wings as it were each of 
which has in it an altar to different saints; over one of 
them is hung a large oil painting some eighteen or 
twenty ft square; it represents purgatory, and the 
Virgin Mary descending from Heaven attended by 


*°8 George Wilkins Kendall, journalist, was born in Amherst 
(now Mount Vernon), New Hampshire, August 22, 1809; died 
in Oak Spring, near Bowie, Texas, October 22, 1867. He went 
to New Orleans in 1835 and two years later established there, 
with Francis A. Lumsden, the Picayune. In 1841, partly from 
love of adventure and partly for his health, he joined an ill-fated 
Santa Fé trading expedition, was taken prisoner and carried to 
the city of Mexico, but was released after seven months of cap- 
tivity. During the war with Mexico he accompanied the United 
States forces under General Taylor, and later under General 
Scott, and by means of pony expresses and steamers supplied his 
paper with the latest news. He published Narrative of the Texan 
Santa Fé Expedition and The War between the United States 
and Mexico. On his tombstone are the words: “Poet, journalist, 
author, farmer—eminent in all; clear head, stout heart, a man of 
many friends, best beloved by those who knew him best.” 

104 George Denison Prentice, journalist, author, and humorist, 
was born in Preston, Connecticut, December 18, 1802; died at 
Louisville, Kentucky, January 22, 1870. He was editor of Con- 
necticut Mirror in 1825, and in 1828 became editor of New Eng- 
land Weekly Review, in which he published many of his poems. 
Two years later he was editor of the Louisville Journal. Mr. 
Prentice wrote a campaign biography of Henry Clay. 


241 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL ae 


many angels, with the infant Jesus in her arms, and 
calling the saints through him to asscend from their 
transient abode to a home of happiness.—The prin- 
cipal altar is truely magnificent, reaching almost to 
the ceiling which is some in height; it is four 
immense pillows [pillars] against the wall, two of 
them on either side of the throne of the patron saint 
of the church, which is inclosed in a glass case decked 
with artificial flowers; on each side of the saint and 
between the pillows are some half doz statues repre- 
senting different saints, the altar is a solid mass of 
gilt which glitters by daylight, and with the church 
lit up with those immense candles, it must be a daz- 
zling sight.—To describe all the altars in the church 
would be too much, so I'll leave off with these two and 
say a few words in regard to the chapel adjoining the 
church and from whense a door opens to it, solely for 
the worship of Christ. The chapel is not large neither 
is the altar so much ornamented save with flowers, 
as the large one in the church, it is magnificent tho’ 
and if anything richer than the other. The center of it 
is covered with a curtain and on sight contrasts 
strangely with the rich trimming of the altar, it was 
raised (by our attendant—a little boy) in a moment 
by means of a pully, and opened to our view an image 
of Christ crucified as large as life, made of a highly 
polished wood, and inclosed in a large glass case gilted 
and decked with flowers, it looks so like a human 
figure I shuddered as I looked upon it: his accusation 
is written above on a plate of solid gold, some ten or 
twelve inches by six. When we had looked at it for 
242 


Oe ee 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


some time, the little boy lowered the curtain with deep 
respect—shutting the sacred image from our view. 

From the Church we went to the convent now oc- 
cupied as an arsenal by our troops; the officers took 
us through the different apartments and pointed out 
all the ammunition stores, cannon balls, grape, can- 
ister, &c, showed us their guns; then took us to see the 
church of Saint Antonio; it resembles the large church 
in the square, tho’ not on so large a scale. In the mean- 
time the evening parade in the convent yard com- 
menced, we left the church to see it, and at its close re- 
tired to the Dctrs where we rested ourself after a long 
and to me very fatiguing walk, refreshed ourselves 
with a cup of Dofia Josefa’s nice chocolate and re- 
turned home at 734 oclock. 

Friday 23rd 'Took Dofia Josefa out riding this 
P. M. in my carriage, the Dctr and Mr. M. on horse- 
back, rode through the alameda, the Pueblo, and other 
precinct of the city called Twas a cool and re- 
freshing ride, the trees loaded with fruit at the Pueblo 
contrasted. well with the tall shady poplars of the ala- 
meda. 

Monday 26th This world is filled with trials and 
woes. God sends all tho’, and dare we murmer even if 
they are hard? worse ones may come upon us. We re- 
ceive intelligence this evening of the assassination of 
brother James, it comes so straight we can scarcely 
doubt its truth. An English gentleman just arrived 
from Guanajuata brings it, as received by a Spaniard 
of his acquaintance at Aguas Calientes, in a letter 
from Chi.[huahua]| where our brother arrived from 
Durango about the 20th ult., the statement is that he 

243 





DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL [JULY 


was murdered in his own house by some person who 
had a previous difficulty with him. Mi almi is incon- 
solable, nothing I believe could affect him more. He 
heard the rumor at 944 O’clock A. M. and tho’ it 
made him feel miserable enough, the severest blow was 
not yet given; late this evening I heard the straited 
account. After a long hesitation I summoned courage 
to tell him, and may the like task never devolve upon 
me again. At the words “I fear there’s no hope,” his 
pent up feeling burst forth in one groan, followed by 
tears. How my heart aches to write it, but it aches far 
more to see the agony of mz alma. Detr. Hewitson has 
been down and offered all the consolation he could; 
he can feel for him for he knows well the attachment 
that years of a life together in a foreign land has 
wrought between the two brothers: though he en- 
deavoured to cheer him with the probability of its 
falsity as being the news of Mexicans mostly, he told 
me at the door that from what Mr. Meeds tells him it 
comes too straight to hope. Oh, that I could see one 


little ray, one beam to cling to. Mi alma’s grief poured - 


forth in deepest sighs will undo me; tonight is one of 
misery to him. 

Tuesday 27th. How hard it is to deceive my husband 
but the Dctr. charges me by the love I bear him, to 
tell him nothing of the news of tonight, at least a part 
of it, the better half he knows, and his drooping spirits 
raised a little. A Mr. Chapman from Parras, to which 
place all news flies quickly, has heard nothing of it; 
this the doctor told my dear, and I hope he feels some- 
thing easier in mind, that is a relief to me, though I am 
intrusted with the secret of its confirmation by an 

24:4 


oe eS irs - 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


Irishman in Mr. Meed’s employ who talked with the 
express man from Chi. and hears from his own lip that 
he had seen my brother’s body, that he was murdered 
in his own bedroom just before daylight, but on what 
day Mr. Kelly did not ask him. 

To tell him I cannot, the Detr. warns me not, and 
yet I know he must hear it ere long. But [ll wait; the 
news must come and the way may be easier than I can 
contrive. | 


August 1847. 


Sunday ist. My gratification is better conceived 
than written, at receiving a letter this A. M. from sis- 
ter Letty after a silence so long that I had concluded 
myself no longer thought of by the dearest of friends, 
and to hear too that all are well, no deaths save that 
of Aunts McDowell and Taylor each of whom we have 
every reason to believe has made the brightest ex- 
change, that of sickness, earthly sufferings tempta- 
tions &c. for peace and never ending happiness, we 
can better envy than bewail them. The marriage of 
several cousins and births of a few more children, 
among the no. sister Anna has an Isaac Shelby—mean 
thing for taking the name from me, she might have 
waited a few months longer. I do think a woman em 
beraso [| embarazada—pregnant | has a hard time of it, 
some sickness all the time, heart-burn, head-ache, 
cramp etc. after all this thing of marrying is not what 
it is cracked up to be. 

Sunday 8th. A letter from Papa today all well, and 
since Letty’s, answered it immediately. 

Friday 14th. We had quite a fright last night from 

245 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL AUGUST 


I suppose intended house breakers, as we are left en- 
tirely to suspicion, and this morning tells us that some 
gents. of the same calling were caught a few doors from 
ours while complimenting thefamily. About 12 O’clock 
we were aroused by foot steps on the roof of our room, 
mt alma sprang to the window and I of course after 
him, and called out “who is that” both in English and 
Spanish, when the parties immediately ran to the 
front of the house answering in the latter tongue 
most confusedly ‘“munchos Mexicano” [muchos 
Mexicanos—many Mexicans]’ “munchos ladrones” 
[many robbers], and when called to for explanation 
no one knows what they said, ’twas so mysteriously 
confused, at the same time the light of a lantern 
was thrown into the patio. Mi alma now called to 
the sentinel at the quartermaster’s door in front if 


he could see any one, and he responded two men. At. 


this the rogues ran down the roof to the coral and 
disappeared, when we retired again. 

Sunday 15th. No news from Chi.[huahua] till to- 
day when Mr. Spyres’”’ received a letter, say[ing | 


105 Albert Speyers, whose name was spelled with many varia- 
tions, was a merchant trader, for many years transporting goods 
by caravans to Santa Fé and other places in Mexico. He was a 
Prussian Jew and always carried with him both British and 
Prussian passports. 

On the occasion previously mentioned, Speyers was carrying 
two wagon-loads of arms and ammunition for delivery in Mexico. 
This was denied by him and others, but subsequent events have 
proved conclusively that such was the fact. General Kearny got 
information on June 5, 1846, from George T. Howard, govern- 
ment agent and then on the Santa Fé Trail, that Speyers in 
partnership with Governor Armijo was carrying a large quantity 


246 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


all has gone on well except the murder of Mr. Aull— 
nothing is said of bro. James so we infer the news we 
heard to be false. A few days must bring us some news. 

Friday 20th, Received marching orders, for Mon- 
terey tomorrow 2 O'clock P. M., today at 12 O’clock 
scarcely giving me time to turn around. Gen. Cush- 
ing’ is going down and as it is probably the strongest 


of arms and ammunition, and that two companies of Mexican 
dragoons were marching from Santa Fé to meet and escort the 
ammunition in safety. He also got word from Captain Waldo that 
Armijo was getting a large shipment of goods into Mexico. 
Kearny therefore ordered Captain Benjamin Moore with a 
squadron of dragoons to pursue Speyers and detain him. Captain 
Moore was unable to overtake him. Speyers was traveling forty- 
five miles per day, but he afterwards claimed that his haste was 
not due to the fact that he carried ammunition. He said he wanted 
to get a certificate from the custom house at Santa Fé before the 
United States should take possession of it. 

Speyers was dispossessed, forcibly, of most or all of the arms 
and ammunition by the Mexicans. He went to Chihuahua and 
made complaint to Governor Trias, saying to him that he had 
come to present “a claim on the Government of Mexico for arms 
forcibly seized, in payment of which I only have a bond.” 
Speyers left Independence in the middle of May and arrived at 
Chihuahua in September, shortly after Kearny took possession 
of Santa Fé. He proceeded from there into the interior without 
molestation from the authorities and sold his goods at a hand- 
some profit. 

On March 21, 1848, Speyers arrived at New Orleans and 
proceeded from there to Europe to purchase goods for the 
Mexican market. He finally quit the Mexican trade, probably 
sojourning for awhile in Kansas City, Missouri, and then went 
to New York. There he became involved in a Wall Street crash 
and committed suicide. 

106 General Caleb Cushing, born in Salisbury, Massachusetts, 


24:7 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL AUGUST 


escort for some time, we embrace it, bidding farewell 
to Saltillo with few regrets on my part, for tho’ not 
going immediately home my situation not admiting of 
a sea voyage for three or four months yet, we shall be 


January 17, 1800, was educated at Harvard University and 
graduated with honors in 1817. Later he studied law and prac- 
ticed in his native town until 1825, when he was elected repre- 
sentative in the lower house of Massachusetts as a Whig. He 
was elected again in 1833, and in 1834 was elected to the United 
States Congress, continuing in that office until 1843, when Presi- 
dent Tyler sent him to China. There he made the first treaty 
between that country and the United States. Returning to the 
United States he was elected again to Congress. In January, 
1847, he raised a regiment of volunteers, equipped them at his 
own expense, and was commissioned colonel. Subsequently he 
was promoted to brigadier-general. He joined General Taylor 
during the summer, but was afterwards ordered to Vera Cruz. 
He was honorably discharged July 20, 1848. 

Soon after his discharge from the army General Cushing was 
nominated by the Democratic party of his state for governor, 
but failed in the election. From 1850 to 1852 he was again a 
member of the legislature of his state, and at the expiration of 
his term appointed associate justice of the Supreme Court of 
Massachusetts. In 1858 President Pierce appointed him United 
States attorney-general. At the close of 1860 he was sent to 
Charleston by President Buchanan as confidential commissioner 
to the Secessionists of South Carolina, and in 1866 he was ap- 
pointed one of three commissioners to revise and codify the laws 
of Congress. In 1873 he was nominated for office of chief justice 
of the United States, but the nomination was subsequently with- 
drawn. A year later he was appointed minister to Spain. General 
Cushing wrote a number of books, among which was a life of 
President William H. Harrison. He died at Newburyport, Massa- 
chusetts, January 2, 1879. (Appleton’s Cyclopedia of American 
Biography, vol. 2, p. 88.) 


248 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


so much nearer, letters can be received twice as often. 
I shall meet at Monterey a female companion in Mrs. 
Hunter wife of Maj. H. paymaster there, she is 
spoken of by officers here, as a fine companion and 
‘twill be a feast to see one of my countrywomen again. 
I’ve done all the packing this P. M. and no little is it, 
and tonight I am sick and weary. Mrs. Hewitson 
called to bid me good bye—gave her a little hair pin 
as a memorial of me, and she this afternoon sent me a 
beautifully worked napkin, along with some delicacy 
for the road. 

Wrote to Mama Magoffin this morning, but shall 
have to carry the letter myself till I meet with a mail, 
whether at Monterey or Matamoras, to which place 
we shall probably go immediately. 

Wrote a long letter to brother James, who we now 
know positively to be safe in Chi. a letter from Mr. 
Belden’ of Durango to Mr. Chapman of Parras giv- 
ing us the wished for intelligence, he, Mr. B. having 
received a letter from him some ten days since in 
which he speaks of our supposed departure for the 
U. S. as his reason for not having written. 

Monterey August 23rd. Arrived here last night 
after two days of the roughest ride I ever had. Yes- 
terday in particular was almost insupportably rough 
for a carriage yet notwithstanding through necessity 


107 John Belden went to Mexico from the city of New York. 
He was successful in business and had accumulated a large 
fortune. Either to please himself, or the Mexicans, he often wore 
costly diamond jewels, and hence he was called the “Prince of 
Diamonds.” (Gilliam, Travels in Mexico during the Years 1543 
and 1844, p. 215.) 


249 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL ‘auauer 


as William was riding my horse, I stood it out nearly 
the entire day, having my husband to hold me as 
steady as could be under the circumstances, or other- 
wise I could not have reached here without some acci- 
dent. But dear me what a dreadfully warm place this 
is. Saltillo certainly has the advantage in climate. 
Cloaths are almost insupportable. 

Mrs. Hunter called soon after breakfast, being 
quite as anxious to see a “white woman” as I am. She 
is tall, good looking about thirty years of age, and 
affable in her manners. We are to spend this evening 
with her, and as we are beginning quite well, I think 
we'll be sociable. Mi alma, with Cpt. Thompson” who 
came down with us called on Gen. Taylor at his en- 
campment “Walnut Grove” near town. 

Tuesday 24th. Mrs. Hunter called tonight, (I have 
been unable to fulfill an engagement to ride this P. M. 
from great soreness) sat some time. We dine with her 
tomorrow. Gen. Cushing and Cpt. Thompson called. 

108 Philip R. Thompson was born in Georgia, and appointed 
from that state to the United States Military Academy July 1, 
1830. By successive promotions he reached the rank of captain 
of the 1st Dragoons, June 30, 1846. He was engaged in the 
battles of Brazito and Sacramento, and was acting inspector- 
general of General Wool’s column on its march through Chi- 
huahua, May to October, 1847; brevetted major February 26, 
1847, for gallant and meritorious conduct in the battle of Sacra- 
mento. Major Thompson served in New Mexico and Indian cam- 
paigns 1851-1855. He was cashiered September 4, 1855, for 


disrespect to a court-martial, and after his dismissal became © 


adjutant-general with the rank of captain of a filibustering ex- 
pedition to Nicaragua, February 11, 1856, to May 1, 1857. He 
died June 24, 1857, in the Gulf of Mexico, aged forty-five years. 
(Cullum, Biographical Register, vol. 1, p. 481.) 


250 


ee a 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


Wednesday 25th. Well we’ve lost no time today. I 
can well say that two women meeting after an entire 
sepperation of twelve months from female society, 
are certainly a curiosity. We talked all the morning 
till dinner, and after eating, on account of the great 
heat, in part, and to be alone leaving the gents, one 
Cpt. Ramsey” beside our husbands, to take care of 
themselves, we undressed ourselves and layed down 
for a couple of hours, loosing not a minute of the time 
for our tongues were as incessantly in motion as the 
bell clappers in Mexico, telling of our adventures in 
travel, anxiety to reach home, the wishes of our friends 
&e &c. We stayed to tea, and came home after 9 
O’clock, having made an engagement to ride out to 
the General’s tomorrow evening. 

By the way I had almost forgotten to say that the 
wonder of all present wonders, the American Lyon 
or “emphant” has called on me today In the old gen- 
eral I am agreeably disappointed ; from the cognomen 


19° George Douglas Ramsey was born in Dumfries, Virginia, 
February 21, 1802; entered the United States Military Academy 
from the District of Columbia, August 20, 1816; served in the 
artillery, topographical and ordnance departments, from 1820 
to 1835. During the military occupation of Texas, 1845-1846, was 
ordnance officer at Corpus Christi and Point Isabel. Took part in 
the battle of Monterey, September 21-23, 1846, and was brevetted 
major for gallantry in that battle. He was chief of ordnance of 
the army commanded by General Taylor; major of ordnance 
April 22, 1860; lieutenant-colonel August 3, 1861, and brigadier- 
general and chief of ordnance of the United States Army Sep- 
tember 15, 1863. Retired from active service September 12, 1864. 
Brevetted major-general March 13, 1865, for long and faithful 
services. Died in Washington, D. C., May 23, 1882. 


251 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL rauGuST 


he has received—“rough and ready,”*® I had not 
thought to find him possessed of so mild manners, 
such apparent high regard for female character; he is 
very talkative, agreeable and quite polite, tho’ plain 
and entirely unassuming. 

He wore his uniform which I am told is no common 
custom with him, and I should think so from the num- 
ber of wrinkles in it, the work of many weeks packing. 
I am told the honour is worth remembering. His aid- 
de-camp Maj. Bliss” called with him, a placid coun- 


11° Mrs. Magoffin’s comment on General Taylor’s personal ap- 
pearance suggests the reason for his sobriquet. Because of in- 
difference to his personal appearance, and his blunt readiness 
for meeting any emergency, his troops in the Mexican War 
dubbed General Taylor “Rough and Ready.” 

Much against his judgment and inclination, he became a can- 
didate on the Whig ticket for president. In protesting against his 
nomination, the general remarked that he was a plain, simple 
soldier, bred to the profession of arms, knowing nothing of the 
intricacies of statecraft, and he distrusted his fitness for high 
civic position. He was elected in 1848, and, notwithstanding his 
modest depreciation of himself, his administration began well, 
and with the promise of successful continuation. General Taylor 
served as president of the United States for only sixteen sg ae 
dying in the White House July 9, 1850. 

11 William Wallace Smith Bliss was born in August, 1815, at 
Whitehall, New York. He was graduated from the United States 
Military Academy in 183838, and served in the campaign against 
the Cherokees in 1834. He was a professor at the Academy for 
six years, chief of staff in the Florida War, and served against 


the western Indians. During the Mexican War he was con- © 


spicuous for gallant conduct in the battles of Palo Alto, Resaca 
de la Palma, and Buena Vista. He acted as adjutant to General 
Taylor during his campaign in Mexico. After General Taylor was 
inaugurated president, Colonel Bliss became his private secretary. 


252 


a a a a i 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


tenance he has, talks little, forehead very high or 
rather bald. 

Thursday 26th Returned the General’s call this 
afternoon: he has a beautiful camping spot four miles 
from town on the Matamoras road, in a thick grove 
of trees. The old gentleman was very glad to see us, 
talked a great deal, handed cake and champagne, and 
proved himself exceedingly hospitable. His tent is 
caracteristic of the man, very plain and small his sleep- 
ing apartments, but just in front a little seperated 
from it is a large awning affording a pleasant shade 
and is termed the “drawing-room.” The general was 
dressed in his famed old gray sack coat, striped cotton 
trowsers blue calico neck-kerchief. With all this I am 
most agreeably disappointed in him. Most of the wild 
stories I’ve heard of him I now believe false and in- 
stead of the uncouth back-woodsman I expected to 
have seen I find him polite, affable and altogether 
agreeable. 

Friday 27th. 'This evening we road out to see the 
famous “black-fort.”** It has been thoroughly re- 


After the death of the President he became adjutant-general of 
the western division of the army, with headquarters at New 
Orleans. On December 5, 1848, he married Miss Mary Elizabeth, 
daughter of General Zachary Taylor. Colonel Bliss died in East 
Pascagoula, Mississippi, August 5, 1853. He was affectionately 
nicknamed “Perfect Bliss.” 

112 Was called “Black Fort” because the Mexican Black Flag 
floated over the fort during the battle of Monterey. It was a 
large rectangular fortress, known as the citadel, and covered 
nearly three acres of ground, with four bastion fronts, surrounded 
by a work of solid masonry and supplied with heavy guns. At 
the time of General Taylor’s attack it was not finished. After- 


253 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL AUGUST 


paired by the Americans and I consequently see it to 
best advantage. Within the parripet wall 2000 men 
may be stationed, the castle stands in the center, and 
within this is the magazine built entirely by the Ameri- 
cans. Around the outside wall is a deep and wide 
trench making it impossible for the enemy to scale the 
wall if but a small force be within it. The whole is in 
fine order for a siege, with wells of water, abundance 
of amunition, and the provisions that can be taken 
there from the store-houses in town, they will be well 
fixed. . . . We also drove to Aristas garden at the 
out-skirts of town the south side, a celebrated place 
tho’ not half as much improved as the gardens in the 
U.S., that have been but one year in making. In two 
large, deep baths, one on either side, it has a luxury 
resembling the more antique nations. 

Saturday 28th Road around to see the fortifica- 
tions of the Mexicans in the siege of this place. Many 
of them remain perfect, tho’ most have been removed. 
A number of houses on the W. side of the city where 
all the hard fighting was done, are perforated with 
cannon balls, while the walls outside are covered with 
marks of smaller arms. The spots where Col. 
Mitchell”* and Majr Barbour™ were killed were 


wards it was completed by the General’s order and rendered ~ 
almost impregnable. When Monterey surrendered, after three 
days of desperate fighting and the loss of many Americans, the 
Black Fort was evacuated by the Mexicans. This occurred ee 
tember 25, 1846. 

“48 Alexander M. Mitchell, born in North Carolina, was ap- 
pointed a cadet to the United States Military Academy July 1, 
1830. After his graduation he served in the garrisons at Baton 
Rouge and New Orleans, and took part in the Florida war 


254 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


pointed out to me. The bishops Palace, which was 
taken by Gen. Worth’ is distinctly visible on a high 


against the Seminole Indians. He resigned from the army March 
25, 1837; was civil engineer in the service of the United States 
1837-1838; chief engineer of Milwaukee and Rock River Canal 
1838, and of the territory of Wisconsin 1839-1840. Served in 
the war with Mexico as colonel of the 1st Ohio Volunteers. In 
the battle of Monterey he was severely wounded. Recovering from 
his wounds he served as military governor of Monterey from 
April to June, 1847. After the war he practiced law for a time at 
Cincinnati, Ohio, and in 1849 was appointed United States 
marshal of the Territory of Minnesota. He died at St. Joseph, 
Missouri, February 28, 1861. (Cullum, Biographical Register of 
U.S. Military Academy, vol. 1, p. 480.) 

114 Philip Nordbourne Barbour was born near Bardstown, 
Kentucky, April 14, 1813, the son of Colonel Philip Barbour. 
He was graduated at West Point in June, 1834, and from that 
time on until his death, he was engaged in constant and dangerous 
service. He was killed September 21, 1846, in one of the streets 
of Monterey while leading his company on to battle in the very 
thickest of the fight. Major Barbour was brevetted captain for 
active and highly meritorious service in the war against the 
Florida Indians; and major, May 9, 1846, for gallant and dis- 
tinguished service in the battles of Palo Alto and Resaca de la 
Palma. 

115 General William Jenkins Worth, born in Hudson, New 
York, March 1, 1794, died in San Antonio, Texas, May 17, 1849. 
He was of Quaker ancestry and of a family that produced many 
well-known men. After receiving only a common school educa- 
tion he went to work in a store until he was eighteen. On the 
opening of the second war with Great Britain he applied for a 
commission in the army, and was appointed first lieutenant. He 
was aide to General Winfield Scott, and distinguished himself in 
battle, rising to the rank of major. At the close of the war he was 
appointed superintendent of the United States Military Academy. 
In 1888 he became colonel of the 8th Infantry, and was active in 


255 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL AUGUST 


hill to the South. It resembles an old delapidated 
church for which I took it. 

Sunday 29th Remained at home all day. At night 
Cptns Thompson, Lynard,’* and Ramsey called, the 
latter I’ve met several times at Maj. Hunters, and he 
has also called here before. Cpt. T. is an old Chi.[ hua- 
hua] acquaintance, but Cptn Lynard of the topo- 
graphical engineers I’ve not met before. 

Tuesday 31st The Gen. invited us out today to see 
his light artillery under Maj. Bragg’ reviewed. I 


the Florida War. He was second in command to General Taylor 
at the beginning of the war with Mexico, and subsequently joined 
General Scott. He was a handsome, manly fellow of generous 
nature; a good horseman and possessed of many talents. A monu- 
ment was erected to his memory by the city of New York at the 
junction of Broadway and Fifth Avenue. 

116 Thomas B. Linnard was appointed from Pennsylvania, his 
native state, to United States Military Academy on July 1, 1825; 
assigned to artillery July 1, 1830. He was engaged in the Florida. 
war against the Seminole Indians. He was promoted for gallantry 
September 30, 1836, marched through Chihuahua 1846-1847, and. 
took part in the battle of Buena Vista, February 22-23, 1847. 
He was brevetted major for gallantry in this battle. Later, 1849- 
1851, he took part in the construction of iron lighthouses on 
Carysfort Reef and Sand Key, Florida. He died at the age of 
forty in Philadelphia, April 24, 1851. 

117 Braxton Bragg, born in Warren County, North Carolina, 
March 22, 1817, entered United States Military Academy July 
1, 1833, and served in the Seminole War. On May 9, 1846, he 
was brevetted captain for gallant and distinguished conduct in 
the defense of Fort Brown, Texas; and major, September 23, 
1846, for gallant and meritorious conduct in the battle of Buena 
Vista. After the battle of Buena Vista two attempts were made 
to assassinate Major Bragg. He resigned from the army January 
3, 1856, and became an extensive planter in Louisiana. On the 


256 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


was pleased with their manueverings which are both 
expeditious and beautiful. The Maj. is called a great 
disiplinarian drilling his men twice a day much to 
their dissatisfaction, they a few nights since placed a 
shell with a slow match, intending to kill him, but for- 
tunately tho’ it exploded about 11 O’clock shattering 
the roof of his tent, his trunk, part of his cott and even 
piercing the bed-cloathing, he was unhurt. Tonight 
I’m in the packing business again. We leave tomorrow 
for Matamoras. Col. Wright’** in command of 500 
Mass volunteers for Gen. Scotts column is our escort. 

W ednesday, Seaptr 1st 1847. The hour for starting 
was set for 6 O’clock this morning, but as is too often 
in the first days start no attention was payed to orders, 


secession of Louisiana, he was made a brigadier-general in the 
Confederate Army, and was the first commander of the military 
forces of Louisiana. He commanded the right wing of the Army 
of the Mississippi at Shiloh, and was made general after the 
death of Albert Sidney Johnston. He succeeded General Beaure- 
gard as commander of the Army of the Tennesseee. Later he was 
given control of the Confederate Army’s military operations at 
Richmond. After the war he was state engineer of Alabama, and 
died in Galveston, Texas, September 27, 1876. 

“48 George Wright was born in Vermont in the year 1808, and 
as a cadet from that state graduated from the United States 
Military Academy. He served in the 3d Infantry, and as captain 
thereof took part in the war against the Florida Indians. For 
meritorious conduct in that war he was brevetted major March 
15, 1842. He took part in the war with Mexico, and in the battle 
of Molino del Rey was wounded while leading a storming party. 
For gallant conduct in this battle he was brevetted colonel. He 
served in California and Washington from 1852 to 1860, and was 
appointed to command the Department of Oregon July 5, 1860. 
From September 28, 1861, to July 1, 1864, he was in command 


257 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL _tsepremser 


and the troop did not leave town till noon; we sent our 
baggage-wagon with them to the first night’s camp 
four miles from town. We ourselves lunched at home, 
and went to Maj. Hunter’s about 314 o’clock P. M. 
and sat with them an hour and more. They rode out 
with us (she in the carriage with me) as far as Gen. 
Taylor’s camp and there bid us good bye. I am dis- 
appointed that she does not go on with us; but still I 
hope to see her in Matamoras before Nov. next. 

The General with his blue twill trousers, old brown 
coat, and broad brimed sombrero Mexicano came out 
to meet us, and twould be wrong to doubt the sincerity 
of his hearty welcome. He called his horse and con- 
ducted us through his entire encampment to ours near 
by. There he dismounted and sat half an hour with us 
before our tent door; talked about Grandpapa who 
was his intimate friend and of Uncles James and 
Thomas” whom he knows; he bade us good bye each 
with hearty shake of the hand and wished for our safe 
arrival at home. 

Sunday 5th Cirelvo [Cerralvo |. Till now I’ve done 


of the Department of the Pacific, with the rank of brigadier- 
general, United States Volunteers. On July 30, 1865, at the age 
of sixty-two years, he was drowned, in the wreck of the steamer 
Jonathan, while on his way to take charge of the Department of 
the Columbia. (Appleton, Cyclopedia of American Biography, 
vol. 6, p. 622.) 

119 James Shelby, son of Governor Isaac Shelby, born 1784, 
married Mary Pindell. He was a major in the War of 1812, and 
later brigadier-general of the Kentucky State Militia. He died 
in 1848. 

Thomas Hart Shelby, also a son of Governor Shelby, born 
May 27, 1789, died February 14, 1869. 


258 


1847] DIARY OF SUSAN SHELBY MAGOFFIN 


nothing but travel, every morning up by 1 o’clock and 
on the road by 3 o'clock jolting over stumps, stones 
and ditches, half asleep, expecting an attack from 
Mexicans constantly. In one place we passed the bones 
of murdered countrymen, remains of burned wagons, 
all destroyed by Mexicans. The second night out we 
found none but brackish water, and sent off some three 
miles to the burned town of Marine for a barrel of 
well water. At this place I made a comadre of an old 
woman witch, who brought eggs and bread down to 
the encampment to sell; she stoped at our tent door, 
she looked up at me, and said, “take me with you to 
your country,” “why,” said I. “le guerro V.. los Ameri- 
cans’ [You are at war with the Americans]? She 
neither answered yes or no, but gave me a sharp pinch 
on my cheek, I suppose to see if the flesh and colour of 
it were natural—and said “na guerro este’ [there is 
no war |. The pinch did not feel very comfortable, but 
I could but laugh at her cunning reply. 

Mier, Wednesday 8th. Such a place this is! The seat 
of so many country-men’s wrongs, the most miserable 
hole imaginable; impossible to get a house we are 
stowed away in a room with a family of men, women 
and children. The town is in confusion. Last night a 
band of robbers entered, shot down a sentinel, rode 
through the plaza, hitched up and drove off five 
wagons loaded with merchandise belonging to a 
Frenchman who says “he go and publish one reward.” 
A runner comes in this evening from the party of forty 
dragoons sent in pursuit of them by Col. Belknap’ 

120 William Goldsmith Belknap, a native of Newburgh, New 
York, entered the army as third lieutenant of 23d Infantry, April 

259 


DOWN THE SANTA FE TRAIL __tsepremser 


saying that they have come upon the thieves, some 
hundred in number dividing out the spoils and only 
twelve or fifteen miles from town, have had a fight, 
killed fifteen of the enemy, retaken the goods with all 
the Mexican equipage, guns, blankets, saddles, &c., 
and all without any loss on our side; they are returning 
to town . . . Col. Belknap, the commanding officer 
here has been very kind to send us dinner and supper, 
for the sleeping we must ourselves provide, and we 
have done so, our bed is here on the sala floor, two or 
three beds in the room are filled with the inmates, our 
trunks piled up serving as a screen between us and 
they. William and Capt. Thompson have their bed 
along with the servants and some visitors or boarders, 
in the San Juan or the front passage to this room, 
there is no door shut between us, and it is all as com- 
mon as one room, and if I ever have the pleasure of 
seeing Mrs. Thompson that may be, I shall make her 
laugh with the scenes of this night—We have said 
good bye to land travel and tomorrow shall take a 
steamboat for Comargo [ Camargo]. 


5, 1818, and served throughout the War of 1812. Remaining in 
the army he was promoted to captain of 3d Infantry, February 1, 
1822. Brevetted major February 1, 1832, for ten years’ faithful 
service in one grade; lieutenant-colonel, March 15, 1842, for 
general good conduct in the war against Florida Indians; colonel, 
May 9, 1846, for gallant and distinguished services at the battles 
of Palo Alto and Resaca de la Palma, Texas, and brigadier- 
general, February 23, 1847, for gallant and meritorious conduct 
in the battle of Buena Vista, Mexico. General Belknap died 
November 10, 1851. 


260 


APPENDIX 


yY 


par 
i 





APPENDIX 


Wark DEPARTMENT, 


Washington, June 18, 1846. 
Sir :— 

T the request of the President I commend to your 
favorable consideration the bearer hereof, Colo- 

nel James W. Magoffin. Mr. M. is now and has been 
for some years a resident of Chihuahua and exten- 
sively engaged in trade in that and other settlements 
of Mexico. He is well acquainted with the people of 
Chihuahua, Santa Fe and intermediate country. He 
was introduced to the President by Col. Benton as a 
gentleman of intelligence and most respectable char- 
acter. The President has had several interviews with 
him and is favorably impressed with his character, in- 
telligence and disposition to the cause of the United 
States. His knowledge of the country and the people 
is such as induces the President to believe he may 
render important services to you in regard to your 
military movements in New Mexico. He will leave 
here for Santa Fe immediately and will probably 
overtake you before you arrive at that place. Con- 
sidering his intelligence, his credit with the people and 
his business capacity, it is believed he will give impor- 
tant information and make arrangements to furnish 
your troops with abundant supplies in New Mexico. 
Should you apprehend difficulties of this nature it is 
recommended to you to avail yourself in this respect 

263 


APPENDIX 


and others of his services for which he will as a matter 
of course be entitled to a fair consideration. 


Very respectfully, 
Your obt. serv. 


(Signed) W. L. Marcy, 
SECRETARY OF WAR. 
Colonel S. W. Kearny. 


Philadelphia, February 21, 1849. 


To J. W. Macorriy, Esa., 
Dear Sir: 

F the following statement of such of your impor- 

tant services as came to my personal knowledge 
during the invasion of New Mexico can serve to eluci- 
date your sacrifices and risks during the war, it gives 
me pleasure to make it. 

I shall not easily forget the pleasure which your 
company gave me when I preceded the army with a 
flag, from Bent’s Fort to Santa Fe, nor the advan- 
tages of your knowledge of the country and its lan- 
guage. 

I am strongly impressed with the skill you ex- 
hibited not to compromise your old influence over the 
Mexican General, by an appearance of your real con- 
nexion with myself (even furnishing an interpreter, 
rather than appear on the official occasion). At night, 
however, you accompanied Genl. Armijo to my quar- 
ters when, by your aid, we had a secret conference. I 
then understood the Mexican Governor’s real dis- 

264 


APPENDIX 


inclination to actual resistance, to which, I believe, 
according to your instructions, you gave important 
encouragement particularly in neutralizing the con- 
trary influence of the young Colonel Archuletta, by 
suggesting to his ambition the part of bringing about 
a pronunciamento of Western New Mexico in favor 
of annexation; (Genl. Kearny’s first proclamation 
claiming only to the Rio Grande). 

I had personal knowledge of the high opinion which 
the General [ Kearny] entertained of your discretion 
and services; and, that it may well be considered a 
piece of good fortune, that at the expense of a large 
bribe, you were suffered to destroy the General’s own 
statement of them only shows how narrowly you 
escaped with your life, in your further efforts to serve 
our Government in Chihuahua. 


With high respect, sir, I remain, 
Your ob. Servant, 


(Signed) P. St. GrorcEe Cooke, 
Major 2 Drags. 


265 


ve! 


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rs 
4 
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BIBLIOGRAPHY 





BIBLIOGRAPHY 


MANUSCRIPTS, BOOKS AND NEWSPAPERS CON- 
SULTED IN THE PREPARATION OF 
THIS VOLUME 


MANUSCRIPTS 


BroapHEAD Cotiection: Santa Fé Papers. 

DonreHan, ALEXANDER W.: Collection of Letters and Papers. 

Drescuer, Wiii1AM B.: Mexican War Recollections. 

Epwarps, Marceriin B.: Journal of an Expedition to New 
Mexico and the Southern Provinces, conducted first by Gen. 
S. W. Kearny, afterwards by Col. A. W. Doniphan in 1846- 
1847. 

Frereuson, Puirie C.: Diary of a Soldier in the Mexican War. 

Kearny, STEPHEN Warts: Letterbook of the Mexican War. 

KrisseEN, CuristiAN: Letters of . . . on the Mexican War. 

Mixuer, Ropert: Papers of . . . relating to the Mexican War. 

Watpo, Dr. Davin: Letters and papers of Dr. Waldo and the 
Waldo Family. 

All of the above manuscript collections in the Missourt His- 
torical Society, St. Louis, Missouri. 


BOOKS AND PERIODICALS 


Azsert, J. W.: Journal of Lieutenant J. W. Abert from Bent’s 
Fort to St. Louis in 1845. [Washington, 1846.} 29th Cong. 
Ist Sess. Senate Doc. 438. 

Report of Lieut. J. W. Abert of his examination of New Mexico, 
in the Years 1846-1847. 30th Cong. Ist Sess. House Ex. 
Doe. 41. 

Aucarus, Ramon: The Other Side or Notes from the History of 
the War between Mexico and the United States. (Albert C. 
Ramsey ed.) N. Y., 1850. 

Appleton’s Cyclopedia of American Biography. 6 vols. N. Y., 
1888. 

269 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 


Avusry, Freuix X.: Aubry’s Journey from California to New 
Mexico. In Western Journal and Civilian, St. Louis, 1858, 
v. 11: 84. 

Bancrort, Husert Howe: History of the Life of William Gilpin. 
San Francisco, 1889. 

History of Arizona and New Mexico. San Francisco, 1888. 

History of Mexico. 6 vols. San Francisco, 1884. 

North Mexican States and Texas. 2 vols. San Francisco, 1889. 
Benton, Tuomas Hart: Thirty Years’ View. 2 vols. N. Y., 1854. 
Bieser, Ratpu P.: Papers of James J. Webb, Santa Fe Mer- 

chant 1844-1861. In Washington University Studies, Hu- 
manistic Series, v. 11: 255-305. 
Some Aspects of the Santa Fe Trail. In Chronicles of Okla- 
homa, v. 2: 1-8. : 
Buepsor, A. J.: Indian Wars of the Northwest. A California 
Sketch. San Francisco, 1885. 
Brapiey, Guenn D.: The Story of the Santa Fe. Boston, 1920. 
Winning the Southwest; a Story of Conquest. Chicago, 1912. 
Brooks, NatHan Covineton: a Complete History of the Mexi- 
can War. Phila., 1849. 

Browne, Joun Ross: Adventures in the Apache Country. N. Y., 
1869. 

Bryant, Epwin: What I Saw in California. N. Y., 1848. 

Busune.i, Davwp I., Jr.: John Mix Stanley, artist-explorer. In 
Smithsonian Report for 1924. Washington, 1925. 

Campion, J. S.: On the Frontier. London, 1878. 

CaRPENTER, Wi.tiiam W.: Travels and Adventures in Mexico. 
N. Y., 1851, 

CuIrreNDEN, Hiram M.: The American Fur Trade of the Far 
West. 3 vols. N. Y., 1902. 

Conarp, Howarp L.: “Uncle Dick’ Wootton, The Pioneer 
Frontiersman of the Rocky Mountain Region. Chicago, 1890. 

Connetiey, Witi1am E.: Doniphan’s Expedition and the Con- 
quest of New Mexico and California. Topeka, 1907. 

Standard History of Kansas and Kansans. 5 vols. Chicago, 

1918. 


2770 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 


Cooke, Puiuie St. Georce: Conquest of New Mexico and Cali- 
fornia. N. Y., 1878. 

Scenes and Adventures in the Army. Phila., 1857. 

Cutium, George W.: Biographical Register of the Officers and 
Graduates of the United States Military Academy at West 
Point. 3 vols. N. Y., 1868. 

Curts, James Mapison: The Conquest of California and New 
Mexico. Phila., 1847. 

Daveuters or THE American Revouvution. Kansas City Chap- 
ter: The Old Santa Fe Trail, the story of a great highway. 
[Kansas City, 1909. ] 

Davis, W. W. H.: El Gringo; or New Mexico and her people. 
N. Y., 1857. 

Drannan, Wiruiam F.: Thirty-one years on the Plains and in 
the Mountains. Chicago, 1906. 

Epwarps, Frank S.: A Campaign in New Mexico with Col. Doni- 
phan. Phila., 1847. 

Emory, Wituiam H.: Notes of a Military Reconnoissance from 
Fort Leavenworth in Missouri to San Diego in California. 
Washington, 1848. 

Fatconer, THomas: Expedition to Santa Fe. An account of its 
Journey from Texas through Mexico. New Orleans, 1842. 

Fremont, Joun C.: Report of the Exploring Expedition to the 
Rocky Mountains in the year 1842, and to Oregon and North 
California in the years 1843-1844. Washington, 1845. 

GerrarD, Lewis H.: Wah-To-Yah, and the Taos Trail. Cincin- 
nati, 1850. 

Gituiam, Atsert M.: Travels in Mexico during the years 1843 
and 1844. Aberdeen, 1847. 

Greae, JostaH: Commerce of the Prairies. 2 vols. N. Y., 1844. 

Green, Tuomas J.: Journal of the Texian Expedition against 
Mier. N. Y., 1845. 

Green, Cuaries R.: . . . Along the Santa Fe Trail. Olathe, 
Kansas, 1912. 

GREENE, JEREMIAH E.: The Santa Fe Trade: its route and char- 
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Haines, Hevren: History of New Mexico. N. Y., 1891. 

Harvey, Cuarues M.: Story of the Santa Fe Trail. In Atlantic 
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Hayes, A. A.: New Colorado and the Santa Fe Trail. N. Y., 1880. 

Heirman, Francis: Historical Register and Dictionary of the 
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Hiaeins, Cuarues A.: To California over the Santa Fe Trail. 
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History of Caldwell and Livingston County, Missouri. St. Louis, 
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History of Clay and Platte Counties, Missouri. St. Louis, 1885. 

History of Howard and Cooper Counties, Missouri. St. Louis, 
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History of Jackson County, Missouri. Kansas City, 1881. 

Hosss, James: Wild Life in the Far West; Personal Adventures 
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Hopeger, Freperick W.: Handbook of American Indians North of 
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Hvuaues, Jonn Taytor: Doniphan’s Expedition. Cincinnati, 
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Inman, Henry: The Old Santa Fe Trail. N. Y., 1898. 

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Jounston, A. R.: Journal of . . . Santa Fe to California, 1846. 
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Kenpauu, Grorce W.: Narrative of the Texan Santa Fe Expedi- 
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Pox, James K.: The Diary of James K. Polk during his presi- 
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Porter, VALENTINE M.: History of Battery “A” of St. Louis. In 
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Rew, Samvuet C.: Scouting Expeditions of McCulloch’s Texas 
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Ropinson, Jacos S.: Sketches of the Great West. A Journal of 
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Root, Frank A., and Witiiam E. Connetuey: Overland Stage 
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Ruxton, Georce F.: Adventures in Mexico and the Rocky Moun- 
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Sasin, Epwin L.: Kit Carson Days, 1809-1868. Chicago, 1914. 

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274 


tipi ecigy <~ 
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Yoakum, Henperson: History of Texas. 2 vols. N. Y., 1856. 


NEWSPAPERS 


Boonville (Missouri) Boonville Commercial Bulletin, 1846-1848. 

Brunswick (Mo.) Brunswicker, 184'7-1849. 

Fayette (Mo.) Missouri Democrat, 1846-1849. 

Franklin (Mo.) Missouri Intelligencer, 1822-1824. 

Glasgow (Mo.) Glasgow News, 1845-1847. 

Independence (Mo.) Independence Journal, September 12-Octo- 
ber 31, 1844. 

Platte City (Mo.) Platte Argus, 1848-1849. 

St. Charles (Mo.) Missouri Patriot, May 6, 1846-October 21, 
1847. 

St. Louis Daily Missouri Republican, 1845-1850. 

St. Louis Weekly Reveille, 1845-1849. 

Santa Fe (New Mexico) Santa Fe Republican, September 10, 
1847, to April 2, 1848. 


275 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 


Springfield (Mo.) Springfield Advertiser, July 11, 1848-1849. 

Warsaw (Mo.) Saturday Morning Visitor, June 10, 1848-May, 
1849. 

Weston (Mo.) Weston Journal (continuation of Independence 
Journal), January 4 to April 19, 1845. 


276 


INDEX 


ABREU, Santiago, Governor 
of New Mexico, 62 n. 

Abreu, Dofia Solidad, wife of 
. Eugene Leitensdorfer, 62 n. 
Agapita, Don, house of, 205. 
Aguas Calientes, Mexico, 243. 
Aguardiente, process of mak- 

ing, 89 n. 

Albuquerque, N. M., 152. 

Albo, Dofia Josefita, 213. 

Allen and Hickman, partners 
at Fayette and Boonville, 
Mo., 58 n. 

Ampudia, Gen. Pedro, sketch 
of, 170 n. 

Apache Indians, rob James 
Magoffin, 151; murder 
James White and _ party, 
199 n; drive off cattle, 201. 

Apache Pass, the approach to 
Santa Fé, 184 n, 188, 189 n. 

Appleton’s Cyclopedia of 
American Biography, quoted, 
83 n, 248, 258. 

“Arcadia,” birthplace of Susan 
Shelby Magoffin, xxi. 

Archuleta, Col. Diego, influ- 
enced by Magoffin, xiii; or- 
ganizes revolt, xiii; intended 
to defend Santa Fé, xv; 
heads revolution, 184; sketch 
of, 184n; arrest and escape 
of, 189. 


Archuleta, Jean Andres, father 
of Col. Archuleta, 184 n. 
Arkansas River, camp on, 87, 

39. 

Armijo, A. J., Santa Fé trader, 
5 n. 

Armijo, J. C., Santa Fé trader, 
5 n. 

Armijo, Gen. Manuel, influ- 
enced by Magoffin, 
strength of troops, 
Mexicans unfriendly to, xiv; 
abandons defense of Santa 


xii; 
xili; 


Fé, xv; James Magoffin ne- 
gotiates with, 84, 264; flees 
to Chihuahua, 96; sketch of, 
96 n; called a coward, 109; 
mentioned, 115, 159; threats 
against, 185n; wounded by 
Apache, 202; partner of Al- 
bert Speyers, 246 n. 
Armijo, Rafael, Santa Fé 
trader, 5 n; store of, 152. 
Armijo, Santiago, leader of 
revolution, 192. 

Arapaho Indians, visit Fort 
Bent, 67. 

Arrow Rock Creek, 36. 

Ash Creek, accident at, 41; re- 
ferred to, 86. 

Atkinson, Chilton, acknowledg- 
ment to, xxv. 

Aubrey, F. X., attacked by 
Apache Indians, 199 n. 


277 


INDEX 


Aull, James, trader, 4.n; sketch 
of, 24n; murder of, 247. 
Aull, John, father of James, 

24 n. 
Aull, Margaret (Elliott), 
mother of James, 24 n. 
Aull, Robert, brother to James 
and John, 24 n. 


BAIRD, James, trader, 54 n. 

Bancroft, Hubert Howe, 
quoted, 176 n. 

Barbour, Maj. Philip Nord- 
bourne, killed at Monterey, 
254; sketch of, 255 n. 

Barcelo, Gertrudes, monte 
dealer, sketch of, 119 n; at- 
tends ball, 145. 

Barns, , of Independence, 
Mo., 2. 

Bartlett, John Russell, quoted, 
90 n; 187 n. 

Barrett’s Station, Mo., Samuel 
Magoffin builds home at, xxi, 
Xxiil. 

Belden, John, of Durango, 249. 

Belknap, Col. William Gold- 
smith, sketch of, 259n; 
kindness to Magofflins, 260. 

Belumdis, Dofia Refujio, 211. 

Benevides, Carmel, wife of 
Antoine Robidou, 136 n. 

Bent, Capt. Charles, 
caravans, 21; member firm 
of Bent and St. Vrain, 59 n; 
takes Indians to soldiers’ 
camp, 67; killed, 186n; 





meets 


Mexicans conspired to kill, 
188; sketch of, 190 n. 
Bent, George, sketch of, 62 n. 
Bent, Robert, mentioned, 62 n. 
Bent, Silas, father of Bent 
brothers, 62 n, 191 n. 
Bent, William, erected Bent’s 


Fort, 59n; brother of 
Charles, 191 n. 
Bent’s Fort, mentioned, xv, 


xviii, 8; road to, 50; Magof- 
fins arrive at, 56; described, 
59. 

Bently, Mrs. 
mayordomo, 240. 

Benton, Thomas H., suggests 
employment of James Ma- 
goffin, xii; ridiculed, xiv. 

Berry, Maj. James, 174 n. 

Berry, Martha Eliza, wife of 
Col. D. D. Mitchell, 174 n. 

Big Bull Creek, dinner at, 7. 





» wife of 


Big John’s Spring, described, 17. 


Billiard room in Fort Bent, 61. 

Black Flag, carried by Mexi- 
cans, 181 n; in Missouri His- 
torical Society Museum, 
217 n. 

Black Fort, description of, 253. 

Black Jack, camp at, 7. 

Bliss, Maj. William Wallace, 
“Perfect Bliss,’ sketch of, 
252 n. 

Bluff Creek, camp on, 15. 

Boggs, Gov. Lilburn W., at- 
tempted assassination of by 
Mormons, 122 n. 


278 


—— 


INDEX 


Boggs, Mrs. Thomas, at mur- 
der of Gov. Bent, 191 n. 

Bosquecito, Mexican town, 190. 

Boswell, Judith Swan, wife of 
Isaac Shelby, Jr., xxii. 

Bottles, empty, sought by the 

~ Indians, 153. 

Bragg, Major Braxton, sketch 
of, 256n; great disciplina- 
rian, 257. 

Brazito, battle of, 121n; de- 
scription of, 180-181; field 
of, 202. 

Brent, Frances, mother of Dr. 
Henry Connelly, 105 n. 

Bridge Creek, camp on, 12. 

Buckner, Mary, grandmother 
of Lucius F. Thruston, 
106 n. 

Buena Vista, Mexico, 236. 

Buffalo hunt, described, 44. 

Burial on prairie, 38. 

Bushnell, David I., Jr., quoted, 
20 n. 

Bustamante, Anastacio, Presi- 
dent of Mexico, 235 n. 


CACHES, described, 53. 

Caldwell, Thomas, interpreter, 
181; sketch of, 187 n. 

California, Commodore Stock- 
ton assumes command of, 
154; expedition to, 159 n. 

Camargo, Mexico, 260. 

Canadian Fork, otherwise Red 
River, 85. 

Carazal, Mexico, 225. 


Carson, Kit, guide, 199n; 
wife of, witnesses murder of 
Gov. Bent, 191 n. 

Cerralvo, Mexico, 258. 

Chambers, Samuel, expedition 
to Santa Fé, 54 n. 

Chapman, » of Parras, 
Mexico, 244; letter to, 249. 

Chavez, Don Mariano y Cas- 
tillo, sketch of, 153 n. 

Chavez, Mexican planter, 96 n. 

Chenie, Antoine, 53 n. 

Chenie, Marie Magdeleine, 
wife of Dr. Philippe Auguste 
Masure, 53 n. 





Chihuahua, Mexico, Americans 
enter, 220, 2830n; Magoffins 
arrive at, 228. 


Churchill, Abigail, wife of 
Meriwether Lewis Clark, 
144 n. 


Cigarritas, constantly used by 
Mexicans, 93. 

Clark, Maj. Meriwether Lewis, 
attends ball at Santa Fé, 
143; sketch of, 1438 n; bids 
goodbye to Magoffins, 146; 
tells of revolutions at San 
Miguel and Taos, 188. 

Clark, Gen. William, men- 
tioned, 46n, 52n; father of 
Maj. Clark, 143 n. 

Colburn, Norris, trader, 62 n. 

Comanche Indian chief calls on 
Mrs. Magoffin, 112. 

Condé, Gov. Gen. Garcia, laid 


279 


INDEX 


out “Glorietta,” 142; sketch 
of, 142 n. 

Connelley, William E., finds 
documents in War Depart- 
ment, xiv. 

Connelly, Dr. Henry, trader, 
carries message to James 
Magoffin, xiv; captured, xvi, 
169; mentioned, 4 n; partner 
of Edward J. Glasgow, 52 n; 
calls on Magoffins, 104, 126; 
sketch of, 104 n. 

Connelly, John Donaldson, fa- 
ther of Dr. Henry Connelly, 
105 n. 

Cooke, Capt. Philip St. George, 
commands James Magoffin’s 
escort, xiv; xvii; quoted, xvi; 
sketch of, 158n; letter of, 
264. 

Coon Creeks, camps on, 48-49. 

Cordero, Don José, of Chihua- 
hua, 229. 

Cottonwood, breakfast at, 26; 
described, 27. 

Cottonwood Creek, 23. 

Council Grove, described, 16; 
creek of, 16. 

Crawford, George Washington, 
Secretary of War, attitude 
toward James Magoflin, xvii. 


Cullom, George W., cited, 
250n, 255 n. 
Cuna, Mexican dance, de- 


scribed, 145 n. 
Cushing, Col. Caleb, sketch of, 
247 n. 


Cutts, James Madison, saw 


Mrs. Magoffin on trail, xxiv. 


DALLAM, Maria Laetitia 
Shelby, wife of James Law- 
rence Dallam, 88n; letters 
to, 95; letter from, 245. 

Davidson, Julia, second wife 
of Meriwether Lewis Clark, 
144 n, 

Davis, W. W. H., quoted, xix, 
186 n. 

Davy, Cornelius, trader, 50, 
51 n; encampment of, 58. 


Delgado, el rancho de, 149. 


Diamond Spring, described, 
20 n. 

Dickerson, Julia, wife of Maj. 
Gilpin, 176 n. 

“Dog City,” description of, 37. 

Dofia Ana, village of, 200. 


Donaldson, Capt. James 
Lowery, 233; sketch of, 
234 n. 


Doniphan, Col. Alexander Wil- 
liam, aided by Harmony, 
50n; attends ball at Santa 
Fé, 121; sketch of, 121n; 
letter to, 161; returns from 
Navaho country, 172; signs 
treaty with Navaho Indians, 
172; receives news from the 
Pass, 178; “prepare to 
squat” order, 181; takes El 
Paso, 182; goes to Chihua- 
hua, 185, 196; gives cannon 
to village of Dofia Ana, 201; 


280 


la telat 


INDEX 


takes citizens as hostages, 
207; report capture of, 213; 
impresses 221 n; 
comment on Col. Owen’s 
death, 221n; in possession 
of Chihuahua, 228, 228; 
seeks to join Taylor, 230 n. 

Doniphan, Joseph, father of 
Col. Doniphan, 122 n. 

Dunn, Isaac, furnished escort 
by War Department, 199 n. 

Durango, Mexican forces re- 
ported leaving, 220; James 
Magoffin removed to prison 
at, 214. 


traders, 


EDWARDS, Gov. John C., of 
Missouri, 121 n. 

Edwards, Marcellus, quoted, 
182 n. 

El Paso Public Library, ac- 
knowledgment to, xxv. 

El Paso del Norte, Mexico, 
taken by Doniphan, 182; 
artillery arrives at, 185. 

El Paso, Texas, James Magof- 
fin pioneer of, xix. 

Emory, Lieut. William H., 
186 n; locates site of Fort 
Marcy, 139 n. 

Encinillas, Mexico, 228. 


FISHBACK, Rev. James, hus- 
band of Susanna Shelby, 
167 n. . 

Fitzhugh, , mentioned, 5. 

Fort Bent, see Bent’s Fort. 





Fort Bliss, Texas, location of, 
Xx. 

Fort Marcy, described, 139 n. 

Fort McKenzie, built by Col. 
Mitchell, 174 n. 

Fort William, known as Bent’s 
Fort, 59 n. 

Fray Cristobal, New Mexico, 
195. 

Frémont, Col. Charles, court- 
martial of, 125 n, 144.n; ap- 
pointed governor of Califor- 
nia, 155 n. 

Frijoles, popular Mexican dish, 
157 n. 


GAMACHE, Euphrosine, 
mother of  Leitensdorfer 
brothers, 62 n. 

Garcia, Sefiora, calls on Mrs. 
Magoffin, 209. 

Gespar, Don, mentioned, 137. 


Gibson, George R., diary 
quoted, 217 n. 

Gilliam, Albert M., quoted, 
249 n. 


Gilmer, Lieut. Jeremy Fran- 
cis, designs Fort Marcy, 
189 n; sketch of, 141 n; at- 
tends ball at Santa Fé, 144. 

Gilpin, Maj. William, sketch 
of, 175n; his command re- 

_ ported imprisoned, 177; not 
at the Pass, 178. 

Glasgow, Edward J., 50; 
sketch of, 51n; partner of 
Dr. Connelly, 105n; calls 


281 


INDEX 


on Mrs. Magoffin, 126, 129, 


175; captain of traders, 
221 n. 

Glasgow, James, uncle and 
partner of Edward J. Glas- 
gow, 52 n. 

Glasgow, Julian  Kennerly, 
52 n. 

Glasgow, William Jefferson, 


52 n. 

Glasgow, Margaret, mother of 
Mrs. David Waldo, 65 n. 
Gonzales, Sefior, escapes from 

prison, 178. 

Grama grass, 200. 

Gregg, Joshua, sketch of, 35 n; 
mentioned, 49; description 
of mirage, 73; quoted, 153 n, 
197, 228. 

Gregg, Harmon, 
Joshua, 36 n. 

Grier, Maj. William N., tries 
to rescue Mrs. White, 199 n. 

Grinnell, George Bird, quoted, 
60 n, 192 n. 

Guanajuata, Mexico, 243. 

Guyllego Spring, 227. 


father of 


HALL, , superintendent 
of wagons, 4; anxious to 
move on, 15. 





Hammond, Lieut. Thomas 
Clark, 638n; aid to Gen. 
Kearny, 113; sketch of, 


113 n; manages officers’ ball, 
119; calls on Mrs. Magoffin, 
124, 145; attends ball at 


“The Palace,” 
Mrs. Magoffin 
family, 146. 
Hammond, Thomas Clark, Jr., 
referred to as “angel baby,” 


144; tells 
about his 


113, 146. 

Hancock, Julia, mother of 
Meriwether Lewis Clark, 
143 n. 


Harmony, Manuel X., sketch 
of, 50n; encampment of, 
58; wagons of, 157, 160; 
fears of, 162. 

Harmony, P., Nephews and 
Company, trading firm, 50 n. 

Harrison, James, partner of 
James and Edward J. Glas- 
gow, 52 n. 

Harrodsburg, Ky., home of 
Magoffin family, xviii. 

Hart, Col. Nathaniel, of Ken- 
tucky, xxii. 

Hart, Richard, 208. 

Hart, Susannah, wife of Gov. 
Shelby, xxii. 

Head, Martha, wife of Sterling 
Price, 116 n. 

Herques or MHeques, Dofia 
Guadalupe, calls on Magof- 
fins, 222. 

Hewitson, Dr. James, harbors 
Magoffins, 233; entertains 
them, 236; cotton factory of, 
239; consoles Samuel Ma- 
gofin, 244; escorts Mrs. 
Magoffin to church, 241; 
last farewell of, 249. 


282 


INDEX 


Hickman, James _ Prewitt, 
sketch of, 58 n. 

Hickman, James Prewitt, Jr., 
59 n. 

Hickman, Thomas, father of 
James P. Hickman, 58 n. 
Hinkle, Col. George M., com- 
mander of Mormon troops in 

Missouri, 123 n. 

“Hole in the rock,’ 74; de- 
scribed, 76. 

Hope, Dr. , of Col. Mit- 
chell’s Company, 174. 

Houck, Solomon, sketch of, 
82n; left behind, 85; en- 
camped, 91; calls on Mrs. 
Magoffin, 107. 

Howard, Capt. John Eager, 
sketch of, 232 n. 

Howard, George T., failure of 
mission as government agent, 
xv, 246 n. 

Hughes, Judge M. M., men- 
tioned, 63 n, 113 n. 

Hughes, Martha M., wife of 
Capt. Benjamin D. Moore, 
63 n. 

Hughes, Mary A., wife of 
Lieut. Thomas Clark Ham- 
mond, 113 n. 

Hughes, John T., quoted, xv, 
139 n. 

Hunt, John W., of Lexington, 
Ky., 126. 

Hunt, Julia M., wife of Henry 
S. Turner, 125 n, 126. 





Hunter, David, sketch of, 
237 n. 

Hunter, Mrs. David, wants to 
accompany Magoffins back 
to States, 237; changes her 
mind, 258; calls on Mrs. 


Magoffin, 250. 


INDEPENDENCE, Mo., de- 
scription of, 1 n. 

“T’ve seen the elephant,” 238. 

Indian customs, at childbirth, 
68; signs, 57. 


JACKSON, Gov. Claiborne, 
mentioned, 117n; wives of, 
147 n. 


Jackson, David, partner of 
David Waldo, 65 n. 
Jalicon, André, husband of 


Susan Magoffin, xxiii. 

James, Dr. Edwin, of Long’s 
Expedition, 58 n. 

James’ Peak, known as Pike’s 
Peak, 58. 

Jaramillo, Josefa, wife of Kit 
Carson, 192 n. 

Jaramillo, Marie Ignacia, wife 
of Charles Bent, 192 n. 

Johnson, Dr. , attacked 
by Mexicans, 232. 

Johnson, Capt. Abraham Rob- 
inson, calls on Mrs. Magof- 
fin, 131, 132; sketch of, 
131 n; attends ball at Santa 
Fé, 148; bids farewell to 
Magoflins, 146. 





283 


INDEX 


Jones, Benjamin, discoverer of 
Diamond Spring, 20 n. 
Jornado del muerto, 196 n. 


KANSAS Indians, 14. 

Kearny, Philip, 45 n. 

Kearny, Gen. Stephen Watts, 
xii; bloodless conquest of 
New Mexico, xiii; receives 
Howard, xv; letter of, to 
Magoffin, xvi, letter to, xviii; 
orders of, 45; sketch of, 
45 n; commands “Army of 
the West,” 46n; wounded, 
46n; arrives at Fort Bent, 
65, 67; about to enter Santa 
Fé, 84; in possession of 
Santa Fé, 96, 108; calls on 
Magoffins, 105, 129, 1382, 
189; Navaho Indian treaty, 
110; piety of, 118; 
from, 116; forces in 
fornia, 119n; dines 
Leitensdorfers, 1338; 
of, 1385; accompanies Mrs. 
Magoffin to church, 1387; 
takes Mrs. Magoffin to Fort 
Marcy, 140; sends adieux to 
Magoflfins, 146; mentioned, 
159, 185n; appoints Capt. 
Bent governor, 190 n; orders 
of, 220n; observance of the 
Sabbath, 236; letter to, 263; 
commends service of James 
Magoffin, 265. 

Kelly, Mr. ——, 245. 

Kendall, George Wilkins, 


news 
Cali- 

with 
toast 


quoted, 238; Texan Santa 
Fé expedition, 186n; men- 


tioned, 207n; sketch of, 
241 n. 
Kennerly, Harriet, wife of 


Edward J. Glasgow, 52 n. 
Kerr, Martha, mother of Bent 
brothers, 62 n, 191 n. 


LADEROUTE, Catherine 
Rollet dit, mother of An- 
toine Robidou, 136 n. 

Largo, Sarcillo, chief of 
Navaho Indians, 172 n. 

Laguna del Muerto, 197 n. 

La Laguna, 2038. 

Las Vegas, N. M., 91. 

Leavenworth, Gen. Henry, 
119 n. 

Lea, Lieut. James, of Doni- 
phan’s command, 180; ar- 
rives with artillery, 184. 

Lee, Stephen L., murdered at 
Taos, 190 n. 


Leitensdorfer, Dr. Eugene, 
sketch of, 62 n. 
Leitensdorfer, Mrs. Eugene, 


calls on Mrs. Magoffin, 133. 
Leitensdorfer, John Eugene, 
father of Dr. Eugene, 62 n. 
Leitensdorfer, Thomas, sketch 
of, 62 n. 
Leon, Capt. Ponce de, wounded, 
182 n, 
Leroux, Joachim, guide, 199 n. 
Lincoln, Abraham, mentioned, 


284 


INDEX 


176 n; courted Mary Owens, 
220 n. 
Little Arkansas River, 31, 
Little Cow Creek, 35. 
“Lone Elm,” 5. 
Long, Stephen H., quoted, 77. 
_ Lost Spring, camp at, 21-22. 
Lucas, Ann, 125 n. 
Lucas, James H., 125 n. 
Lucas, Gen. Samuel D., 123 n. 
Lynard, Capt. Thomas B., 
sketch of, 256 n. 


McAFEE, Jane, mother of 
Magoffin brothers, xviii. 
McAfee, Samuel, grandfather 
of Magoffins, xviii. 
McDowell, Dr. Ephraim, 208. 
McDowell, James, 167 n. 
McDowell, Sarah Shelby, 
daughter of Gov. Shelby, 
208; death of, 245. 
McKinney, Col. John, 167 n. 
MacLean, L. A., designer of 
Fort Marcy, 139 n. 
McManus, Frank, sketch of, 
4n; camp near Black Jack, 
7; taken prisoner, 169. 
Magoffin, Anna N. Shelby, 
wife of Gov. Beriah Magof- 
fin, 78 n; letter to, 95, 129; 
gives birth to child, 245. 
Magoffin, Beriah, father of 
Magoffin brothers, xviii. 
Magoffin, Beriah, Jr., Gover- 
nor of Kentucky, xviii. 
Magoffin, Ebenezer, xix. 


Magoffin, Hannah, xix. 
Magoffin, James Wiley, Santa 
Fé trader, known as Don 
Santiago, xi; secret agent, 
xii; credited with bloodless 
conquest of New Mexico, 
xiv; thrown into prison, xv; 
saved from execution, xvi; 
claim of, xvii; goes to Wash- 
ington, xviii; sketch of, xix; 
home near Independence, 
Mo., 1; negotiates with Gen. 
Armijo, 84; greets Samuel 
at Santa Fé, 105; dines with 
him, 107; departs for Chi- 
huahua, 108; robbed, 151; 
wagons of, 152; taken pris- 
169; 
Archuleta, xiii, 185n; sent 
to Durango, 214; sent else- 
where, 220; reported assassi- 
nated, 243; no news from, 
247; safe in Chihuahua, 249; 
Gen. Kearny advised by Sec- 
retary of War concerning, 
263; skill in handling Mexi- 
cans, 264. 
Magoffin, Jane, wife of George 
Taylor, xxiii. 
Magoffin, Dr. John, xix. 
Magoffin, Joseph, xix; son of 
James W. Magoffin, in Con- 
federate army, xx. 
Magoffin, 


James, xix; in Confederate 


oner, influence over 


Samuel, son of 


army, XxX. 


Magoffin, Samuel, Santa Fé 


285 


INDEX 


trader, xi; known as “Don 
Manuel,” xx; sketch of, xx; 
settles difficulty of Mexican, 
4; injured, 42; detained by 
Gen. Kearny’s orders, 42; 
on buffalo hunt, 44; per- 
mitted to go to Fort Bent, 
45; arrives at, 56; paves 
way for protection, 65; pre- 
pares to leave Fort Bent, 
70; crosses the Arkansas, 
72; dines at Las Vegas, 93; 
arrives in Santa Fé, 102; ill, 
108, 188; leaves Santa Fé, 
149; at Albuquerque, 152; 
receives message from Har- 
mony, 162; buys Mexican 
boy, 163; rents house at San 
Gabriel, 164; sells goods, 
168; hesitates to leave San 
Gabriel, 172; sends boy to 
get news of army, 176; re- 
ceives unpleasant news, 177; 
news of the battle of Brazito, 
182; skilled in medicine, 
183; at Bosquecito, 190; ex- 
pects an attack, 193; asks 
Doniphan for protection, 
199; his men steal Mexican 
cannon, 201; friends of, at 
the Pass, 202; receives news 
from U. S., 203; stops at 
Don Agapita’s house, 205; 
at curate’s house, 207; news 
about his brother James, 
214; warned of danger to 
himself, 215; news about 


286 


battle of Sacramento, 218; 
arrives at Socorro, 223; at 
Ojo, 224; Carazal, 225; Ojo 
Caliente, 226; Guyllego 
Spring, 227; Salt Lake, 227; 
Chihuahua, 228; rents house, 
229; bales up money expect- 
ing attack by Mexicans, 233; 
sells wagons to Government, 
239; distressed over news of 
his brother’s fate, 244; 
alarmed by burglars, 246; 
leaves for Monterey, 247; 
for Matamoras, 257; for 
Camargo, 260. 


Magoffin, Sarah, xix. 
Magoffin, Susan Shelby, knowl- 


edge of secret mission, xii; 
sketch of, xxi; experiences 
of, xxiii; diary described, 
xxiv; begins diary, 1; de- 
scribes expedition outfit, 4; 
thrown out of carriage, 41; 
illness of, 47, 50, 52, 164; 
arrives at Fort Bent, 56; 
celebrates 19th birthday, 66; 
serious result of illness, 67; 
leaves Fort Bent, 72; in 
command of wagons, 86; 
Las Vegas anecdote, 91; 


dines at Las Vegas, 983; ar-_ 


rives at Santa Fé, 102; first 
American lady to cross the 
plains, 102; honored by Gen. 
Kearny, 106; housekeeping, 
111; invited to Santa Fé 
ball, 117; describes same, 


7 


INDEX 


118; rumors from Chihua- 
hua, 127; compliments Gen. 
Kearny, 132; invited to dine 
with Leitensdorfers, 134; 
describes dinner, 135; calls 
on Don Gespar and Sefiora 
Ortis, 1387; 
Gen. Kearney to church, 
187; inspects Fort Marcy, 
140; attends ball at “The 
Palace,’ 142; leaves Santa 
Fé, 149; describes house at 
San Gabriel, 166; neglects 
diary, 163, 182, 212, 228; 
wedding 
167; acts as merchant, 173; 
difficulty with servant Jane, 
175; anxiety of, 178; waits 
on sick, 183; expects attack 
by Mexicans, 194; dislikes 
Hight traveling, 199; re- 
ceives letters from Kentucky, 
208; describes house of Don 
Agapita, 205; attends church 
at El] Paso, 209; not jealous, 
211; careful what she writes 
in diary, 216 n; expects to 
be killed or imprisoned, 217; 
calls on Dofia Herques, 22; 
visits Mrs. Potts, 230; in 
danger from attack, 231; 
describes church at Saltillo, 
241; in delicate condition, 
245; expects to meet Mrs. 
Hunter, 249; Gen. Taylor 
calls on, 251, 253; accom- 
panies Gen. Taylor to review 


accompanies 


anniversary of, 


artillery, 256; calls on Mrs. 
Hunter, 258; kindness of 
Col. Belknap, 260. 

Magoffin, Susan, daughter of 
above, and wife of André 
Jalicon, xxiii. 

Magoffin, William, in charge of 
wagons, xi; mentioned, xix; 
arrives at Santa Fé, 124; 
sketch of, 124n; leaves 
Santa Fé, 149; ill, 173, 1838; 
acts as scout, 193; at Mier, 
260. 

Magoflinsville, Texas, now El 
Paso, xix. 

Marcy, William L., Secretary 
of War, letter from, xii, 263; 
fort named for, 139 n. 

Marine, Mexico, burned, 259. 

Marshall, Martin, of Augusta 
County, Ky., 122 n. 

Massachusetts volunteers, es- 
cort Magoflins, 257. 

Masure, Athalie, wife of Wil- 
liam Daggett, 53 n. 

Masure, Auguste, son of Dr. 
P. A. Masure, 538 n. 

Masure, Dr. Henry, brother of 
Dr. P. A. Masure, 53 n. 

Masure, Dr. Philippe Auguste, 
sketch of, 538n; treats Mrs. 
Magoflin, 63, 68; gives hares 
to her, 75; calls on, 107. 

Masure, Therese, wife of Con- 
stantine Schneer, 53 n. 

Masure, Victor, father of Dr. 
P. A. Masure, 53 n. 


287 


INDEX 


Matamoras, Magoffin child 
born at, xxii; road to, 253. 
Mathers, Thomas, Santa Fé 

road commissioner, 16. 

Meadows, Miss, sister of Mrs. 
Potts, 230. 

Meed, Mr. » 245. 

Mexicans, casualties, 218; 
characteristics of, 177, 208; 
cooking, 207; not cowards, 
177; dinner described, 94, 
134; dislike Armijo, xiv; 
fandango, 122, 123; feasts, 
165; homes described, 137, 
154, 206; method of sweat- 
ing, 173. 

Michaud, Eliza, wife of 
Thomas Leitensdorfer, 62 n. 

Mier, Mexico, 259. 

Mirage, described, 72. 

Mitchell, Col. Alexander M., 
sketch of, 254 n. 

Mitchell, Col. David Dawson, 
receives loan from Dofia 
Tules, 120 n; sketch of, 174; 
searches houses in Chihua- 
hua, 229 n. 

Mola stones, used in grinding 
corn, 166. 

Monterey, 249; battle of, 169, 
253 n. 

Monte, game of, 120 n. 

Montezuma, fire of, 100; pueblo 
at 1025 

Montiz, , superintendent 
for Don Rouquia, 224. 

Moore, Capt. Benjamin Davis, 








of Dragoons, sent to protect 
traders, 10; sketch of, 63 n; 
repairs road, 67; attends 
ball at Santa Fé, 122; pur- 
sues Speyers, 10 n, 247 n. 

Mora Creek, 90; village of, 
81, 90. 

Mormons in Missouri, defended 
by Col. 122 n, 
123 n. 

Mosquitoes, plague of, 83. 


Doniphan, 


Morris, Thomas Asbury, 
Bishop, sermons of, 162. 
Mud Creek, 34. 


NAVAHO Indians, depreda- 
tions of, 110; treaty with, 
121 n, 172 n. 

New Mexico, original plan in 
conquest of, xiv. 

New Mexico, Historical So- 
ciety, home of in “Palace of 
the Governors,” 143 n. 

Noland, Smallwood, hotel of, 
In. 

Norris, Edward, father of 
Mrs. David Waldo, 65 n. 
Norris, Eliza Jane, wife of 

David Waldo, 65 n. 
North Carolina volunteers, 233. 


OCATE Creek, 88. 

Ojo, camp at, 224. 

Ojo Caliente, camp at, 226. 
Ojo de Bernal, 75. 

Ojo Gallinas, camp, 89. 


288 


Ng) Ses Se ee 


INDEX 


Olivares, Don Pedro, of Chi- 
huahua, 229. 

One Hundred and Ten Mile 
Creek, 10. 

Oregon pioneers, 23. 

Ortis, Sefiora, home of, 137. 

Ortis, Tomas, a leader in the 
revolution, 184; efforts made 
to have him governor, 188. 

Ortiz, Rev. Ramon, sketch of, 
207; held as hostage, 215; 
reported safe, 218; reported 
killed, 219; at liberty, 220; 
returns home, 223. 

Osage Indians, 16 n. 

Owens, Mary, courted by 
Abraham Lincoln, 220 n. 

Owens, Nathaniel, father of 
Samuel C. Owens, 220 n. 

Owens, Col. Samuel C., mules 
run away, 3; calls on Magof- 
fins, 23; partner of James 
Aull, 24n; wagons block 
road, 26; mule teams leave, 
32; encamped at Mud Creek, 
34; Mexican servant dies, 
38; calls on Magoffins at 
Santa Fé, 104; at San 
Gabriel, 175; killed at battle 
of Sacramento, 218; 223; 

sketch of, 220 n. 


PAINTING of faces by Mexi- 
can women, 102. 

Papin, Marie Therese, men- 
tioned, 53 n. 

Marie 


Parmentier, Josephe, 


mother of Dr. Philippe 
Auguste Masure, 53 n. 

Patterson, Anne, wife of Wil- 
liam Magoffin, 124 n. 

Pawnee Creek, camp at, 45. 

Pawnee Fork, Indians trouble- 
some at, 8; traders stopped 
at, 42; leave, 47. 

Pawnee Rock, origin of name, 
40. 

Paredes, President Mariano y 
Arrillage, reported prisoner, 
127; sketch of, 127n; re- 
ported again in office, 148; 
contradicted, 149. 

Peck, Lieut. William Guy, at- 
tends Santa Fé ball, 144; 
sketch of, 144 n. 

Pecos, village of, described, 
99.n. 

Pelomas road, 232. 

Pike’s Peak, 58 n. 

Pine Street Presbyterian 
Church, St. Louis, xxiii. 

Pino, Don Manuel, sketch of, 
183 n. 

Pino, Nicolas, 183n; refuses 
to take oath of allegiance, 
184 n. 

Polk, James K., President, en- 
lists services of James Ma- 
goffin, xii; letter of, causes 
imprisonment of James Ma- 
goffin, 169. 

Poni Creek, camp on, 86. 

Porter, Polly, mother of David 
Waldo, 64 n. 


289 


INDEX 


Potts, John, English Consul at 
Chihuahua, 5n; sketch of 
229 n. 

Potts, Mrs. John, entertains 
Mrs. Magoffin, 230. 

Prairie dogs, 37. 

Prairie fire, 197. 

Pratte, Bernard, 176 n. 

Prentice, George 
sketch of, 241 n. 

Prentiss, James H., sketch of, 
238 n. 

Prewitt, Sarah, mother of 
James P. Hickman, 58 n. 


Denison, 


Price, Gen. Sterling, crushes 


revolt, xiii; expected in 

Santa Fé, 116; sketch of, 

116n; quells revolution at 

Santa Fé, 184; arrests Mexi- 

cans, 184n; to be seized by 

188; 
subdue Mexicans, 192. 

Pueblo Indians, bring news to 
Magoffin, 219. 

Pueblo village, described, 100- 
103. 

Purgatoire River, camp on, 
76; described, 77 n. 


Mexicans, ready to 


RADFORD, Mary, wife of 
Gen. Stephen W. Kearny, 
46 n. 

Ramsay, Capt. George Doug- 
las, sketch of, 251 n; calls on 
Mrs. Magoffin, 256. 

Raton Pass, 78. 

Ravaud, Lady Barney Dexter, 


mother of Gen. Stephen W. 
Kearny, 45 n. 

Rayada Creek, 88. 

Read, Benjamin M., of Santa 
Fé, acknowledgment to, xxv; 
quoted, 170 n, 235 n. 

Rebozo, described, 93 n. 

Red River, crossed, 85. 

Refujio, Dofia, calls on Dofia 
Herques, 222. 

Reeves, Benjamin, Santa Fé 
road commissioner, 16. 

Reid, Capt. John W., 51 n; gal- 
lantry of, 221 n. 

Reynolds, Thomas, Governor 
of Missouri, 1 n. 

Richardson, Dr. Robert F., ar- 
rives at Bosquecito, 190; 
sketch of, 190n; attaches 
himself to Magoffin’s party, 
192; leaves Magoffins, 227. 

Rio Abajo, settlements of, 
108 n; steamboat, 165. 

Rio Arriba, settlements of, 
108 n. | 

Rio Colorado, camp on, 84, 86. 

Rio de las Animas, see Purga- 
toire River. 

Rio del Norte, camp on, 151. 

Rives, George L., quoted, xii. 

Rock Creek, 12. 

Rockwell, Orrin P., Mormon 
defended by Col. Doniphan, 
122 n. | 

Robidou, Antoine, interpreter 
for Gen. Kearny, 136; sketch 
of, 136 n. 


290 


INDEX 


Robidou, Francois, fur trader, 
136 n. 

Robidou, Joseph, founder of 
St. Joseph, Mo., 136 n. 


Robidou, Louis, fur trader, 
136 n. 
“Rough and Ready,” Gen. 


Taylor’s sobriquet, 252. 

Rouquia, Don Ygnacio, ap- 
pearance of, 211; brings 
news of the battle of Sacra- 
mento, 217. 

Rouquia, Don José, calls on 
Magoflins, 209. 

Rucker, Capt. Daniel Henry, 
sketch of, 239; reported cut 
off by Mexicans, 240. 

Ruis, Sefior, mentioned, 219. 

Ruxton, George F., an English 
traveler, quoted, 97 n. 


SABBATH on the Plains, 9, 
31, 48. 

Sacramento, battle of, 4n; 
121 n, 144n; described, 217. 

St. Louis Republican, quoted, 
46 n. 

St. Vrain, Ceran, partner of 
Bent brothers, 59 n, 191 n. 

Salas, Gen. Mariano, 127 n. 

Salazar, Captain, revolution- 
ist, 184; sketch of, 186 n; 
Texans imprisoned by, 207 n. 

Saltillo, Mexico, 228, 231. 

Salt Lake, Mexico, 227. 

San Gabriel, Magoffins sojourn 
at, 163; feast day at, 165. 


San Luis Potosi, Mexico, road 
from, 232. 

San Miguel, caravans ap- 
proach, 95; described, 98; 
revolution at, 188. 

Sandia, town of, 151. 

Santa Don Antonio 
Lopez de, mentioned, 127 n, 
128, 170 n; sketch of, 128 n; 
expected at San Luis Potosi, 
179. 

Santa Fé, caravans arrive at, 
102; described, 103; express 


Anna, 


from, 168; revolution at, 
184, 188; insurgents at, 
189 n. 


Santa Fé road commissioners, 
16. 

Santuario, Gerraseo Probasco, 
family name of John Eugene 
Leitensdorfer, 62 n. 

Sappington, Dr. John, sketch 
of, 147 n; famous pills made 
by, 147, 164. 

Scolly, John, trader, 143 n. 

Scott, Gen. Winfield, troops 
for, 257. 

Shannon, James, 167 n. 

Shelby, Anna N., wife of Gov. 
Beriah Magoffin, xxi. 

Shelby, Gov. Isaac, grandfa- 
ther of Susan Shelby Magof- 
fin, xxii; friend of Gen. 
Taylor, 258. 

Shelby, Isaac, Jr., father of 
Susan Shelby Magoffin, xxii. 

Shelby, James, sketch of, 258 n. 


291 


INDEX 


Shelby, Mary Pindell, daugh- 
ter of Isaac Shelby, Jr., 
147 n. 

Shelby, Susanna, sketch of, 
167; letter to, 174. 

Shelby, Thomas Hart, sketch 
of, 258 n. 

Gen. William T., 
partner of Capt. Henry S. 
Turner, 125 n. 

Sibastien, Don, reported killed, 
219. 

Sibley, George C., Santa Fé 
road commissioner, 16; 
quoted, 17 n, 20 n. 

Sierra de la Madre, 74; Sierra 
Grande, 74. 

Simpson, Dr. Richard French, 
sketch of, 164 n. 

Sista Don, 218. 

Skillman, Capt. , of trad- 
ers’ regiment, 221 n. 


Sherman, 





Smelser, Susannah, mother of 
Dr. Gregg, 36 n. 

Smith, Anne, wife of Joseph 
and mother of Col. Doni- 
phan, 122 n. 

Smith, Joseph, Mormon leader, 
122 n. 

_ Smith, William T., Santa Fé 
trader, 1438. 

Socorro, Mexico, caravan ar- 
rives at, 223. 

Spears, Robert, calls on Mrs. 
Magoffin, 109; killed by 
Navaho Indians, 109 n. 





Spencer, , Santa Fé mer- 
chant, 199 n. 

Speyers, Albert, caravan of, 
10n; ammunition of, 96n; 
sketch of, 246 n. 

Springs, curious, 225. 

Stanley, John Mix, 
sketch of, 19 n. 

Stevens, Isaac J., mentioned, 
20 n. 

Stewart, James, killed by 
Navaho Indians, 109 n. 

Stockton, Robert Field, sketch 
of, 154n. 

Stuart, Gen. J. E. B., dis- 
tinguished cavalry leader, 
159 n. 

Swords, Maj. Thomas, sketch 
of, 119n; attends ball at 
“The Palace,” 143. 


artist, 


TAOS, revolution at, 188, 190. 
Taylor, George, husband of 
Jane Magoffin, xxiii. 

Taylor, Zachary, President, 
General, mentioned, 
149; capture of Monterey, 
169; report of defeat at San 
Luis Potosi, 218; reports 
false, 218; Missouri troops 
report to, 231n; at Mon- 
terey, 232; calls on Mrs. 
Magoffin, 251; “Rough and 
Ready,” 252; dress of, 2538, 
258; reviews artillery, 256; 
takes Magoffins through en- 
campment, 258. 


XVii; 


292 


SS ae ee Se 


INDEX 


Tevis, Mary Pindell Shelby, 
wife of Henry Lloyd Tevis, 
147 n. 

Texan Santa Fé Expedition, 
mentioned, xix, 106 n, 158 n, 
186 n. 

‘Thompson, Capt. Philip R., 
sketch of, 250n; calls on 
Mrs. Magoffin, 256; room- 
mate of William Magoffin, 
260. 

Thruston, Charles Mynn, 
grandfather of Lucius F. 
Thruston, 106 n. 

Thruston, John, father of Lu- 
cius F. Thruston, 106 n. 

Thruston, Lucius Falkland, 
calls on Mrs. Magoffin, 106, 
126, 182; sketch of, 106n; 
appointed prefect, 107. 

Thruston, Hon. R. C. Ballard, 
106 n. 

Tortillas, 94; process of mak- 
ing, 157, 167. 

Traders, their supplies coveted 
by Santa Anna, © 217n; 
served in Mexican War 
without pay or 
221 n. 

“Traveler's Rest,” 
Gov. Shelby, xxi. 
Trias, Don Angel, letter inter- 
cepted, 187; sketch of, 
187 n; mentioned, 214, 228; 

home of, 229 n. 

Trujillo, Jesusita, wife of 

Diego Archuleta, 186 n. 


pension, 


home of 


Tula, Dofia, see Barcelo, Ger- 
trudes. 

Turner, Capt. Henry Smith, 
calls on Mrs. Magoffin, 125, 
1382, 139; sketch of, 125n; 
attends ball at Santa Fé, 
148; bids farewell to Ma- 
goffins, 146. 

Twitchell, Ralph E., quoted, 
120 n, 186 n, 189n. 


UNITED States Dragoons, 
ordered to protect traders, 
10. 

Ureau, Gen. José, sketch of, 
235 n. 


VALDEZ, Gabriel, arrives at 
Santa Fé, 146; leaves Santa 
Fé, 149, 
201. 

Valdez, Mary Gertrude, wife 
of James Wiley Magoffin, 


X1X. 


carries message, 


Valverde, camping place, 195. 

Vera Cruz, troops disembark 
at, 218. 

Vineyard, Jesse, husband of 
Mary Owens, 220 n. 

Virginia volunteers, 235. 


WAGON mound, 78. 

Waldo, Capt. David, calls on 
Mrs. Magoffin, 64, 130; 
sketch of, 64n; translates 
“Kearny code,’ 65n; mes- 
sage from, 24:7. 


293 


INDEX 


Waldo, Jedediah, father of 
David Waldo, 64 n. 
Walker, John, mentioned, 17 n. 
Wallace, Gov. Lew, 143 n. 
Walnut Creek, camp on, 39. 
Warner, Lieut. William Hor- 
ace, meets caravans, 87; 
sketch of, 87 n; calls on Mrs. 
Magoffin, 109, 113; invites 
Mrs. Magoffin to Santa Fé 
ball, 117; bids goodbye, 
142; leaves for California, 
145; manages officers’ ball, 
119; goes to Taos, 180. 
Warren, Capt. John, xxii. 
Warren, Marie Boswell, mother 
of Susan Shelby Magoffin, 
xxii. ; 
Washington, Maj. John M., 
sketch of, 232n; Mexican’s 
report to, 240. 


‘Webster, Lieut. Lucian B., 
sketch of, 237 n. 

White, James, _ sketch of, 

199n; sent to buy corn, 


200; brings news from the 
Pass, 201; trades oxen with 
Don Santiago, 226. 

Whiting, Elizabeth Thruston, 
mother of Lucius F. Thrus- 
ton, 106 n. 

Willis, Nathaniel Parker, 
sketch of, 83 n. 


Wilson, Samuel W., acknowl- 
edgments to, xxv. 

Wislizenus, Dr. Frederick 
Adolphus, quoted, xxiv. 

Wool, Gen. John Ellis, James 
Magoffin sent as aid to, xiv; 


mentioned, 45n, 120n, 
121n; reported to have 
taken Chihuahua, 155; 


sketch of, 155n; no news 
from, 164; ordered to join 
Gen. Taylor, 170; reported 
near Chihuahua, 172; news 
regarding, 172, 187; no 
news from, 196; reported 
blockaded in Monterey, 
213; compliments Missouri 
troops, 230n; orders citi- 
zens of Saltillo to form com- 
pany, 231; reviews troops 
at Buena Vista, 236. 

Wooster, Lieut. 
sketch of, 148 n. 

Worth, Gen. William Jenkins, 
takes Bishop’s Palace, 255; 
sketch of, 255 n. 

Wright, George, 
257 n. 


sketch of, 


Young, Eliza Ann, wife of 
Gov. Reynolds, 1 n. 

Young, Fanny, wife of Samuel 
C. Owens, sketch of, 1 n. 


294 


Charles F., 


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